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Published on Sep 24, 2010

This is an updated better quality video trying to show the wiring diagram and the
parts list, for people who do not know how to read the links on
the last video, and type them into the navigation window.
((NOTE: TO USE the link above, drag the mouse over the TOP link to HIGHLIGHT it,
then press the buttons CTRL and C ( copy ) and then, in your browser
navigation window, click your flashing cursor, and press CTRL and V (paste)
to copy the link into the navigation window. Then do the same thing with the bottom half of the link, and add it to the first half ( no spaces in between )
( NOTE: youtube deliberately puts in a SPACE ( ) or % or some garbage characters between the / and the word HYDROGEN in between HYDROGEN_FUEL/HYDROGEN_FUEL, so you may have to CORRECT the error before you can see the page. If the page is a BLANK, there is an ERROR in the copy and paste on YouTube.com ! ! ! Remove all "%_[ ]" etc between "FUEL/ " and HYDROGEN ! ! ! On some browsers it is OK, on others, garbage is inserted, so it is difficult to know if the LINK so correct, or will lead you to a blank page! ) )

Then GO TO the link. Note
that the CAPITOL letters in the link are indeed, CAPITOLS, and lower case
letters will not work! Type the link exactly as it is written. thanks. ))
which has the PLANS, the DIAGRAM, and various construction photos.

No Oscilloscope needed. No Precision Amp and Voltmeter Supply needed. No multimeters needed. This EFIE "is" its own meter. Fast and Cheap to build. Just install and go. Adjustable over long time periods, to tune it as your computer adjusts. The METHOD of use is to watch the range of the bouncing voltages on the meter under normal driving conditions, over a period of time. Then, when you turn ON the HHO fuel, you will see the range change, and can quickly adjust it back to normal. Then, try to COMPENSATE for the computer's ADDING of too much gasoline. If the weather, fuel, or driving conditions change, again, you watch the Normal values for a while, and then compensate, again, to bring the HHO readings back to normal. This can be done, anywhere, anytime, quickly, without elaborate, expensive equipment, and does not require crawling inside your engine compartment.
As noted on the Diagrams, the only difficult part is finding the ONE single O2 wire coming out of the Sensor. On the simple two wire O2 sensors, one wire is likely a Ground, leaving the other wire to work with. ( there are older ONE wire units- {they used the muffler pipes as a ground} obviously, this "is" the wire you need! ) Many websites have color codes for YOUR particular vehicle. The two wire O2 Sensors take a LONG time to heat up, since the vehicle must heat it to 600 degrees, before it produces any signal. The 4 wire O2 Sensors have two extra wires for a HEATER, { a ground and a +volts for the toaster wires} that quickly gets the O2 Sensor up to 600 degrees operating temperature. It is noted that on "most" vehicles, these extra 2 wires are usually the SAME COLOR, so this quickly leaves you with only the standard two to choose from again. ( there are 3 wire units with a common ground -{ the O2 Sensor ground and the Toaster ground are combined } instead of 2 separate grounds- as well ). If your O2 sensor has 5 or 6 wires, it is the newest type, and only a "wideband", complicated EFIE will work, the SD2010 will { reportedly } NOT work. Reports on the Web indicate that the SD2010 type of EFIE is very successful on OBC "one" vehicles, but may be less effective on some specific revisions of the OBC "II" computers, which DETROIT has deliberately designed to defeat Efie inputs! For these, you likely have to adjust air flow sensors, etc. as well to properly adjust for HHO. Good luck!

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