 Hello there, I am Steve and welcome to Retro Tech Academy. Today is part two of our special where we are highlighting the Sony PVM20L5. Now if you don't know much about the 20L5 then you might want to start with our first part one video which kind of goes over the features a little bit as well as a walk around the outside of the monitor and initially turning it on and starting it up. In today's episode we're going to take a closer look at the inside of the monitor behind the shell and we're going to take a look at what some of the features are for this monitor that weren't in past models as well as some of the adjustments we're going to need to make on this one. We'll talk a little bit more specifically about the yoke and I've got a cutaway to where we're going to look at some other things here in the lab involving yokes. So please sit right back and let's go ahead and get started. Today we're going to be looking at the 20L5 I've picked the camera up and I'm going to walk around it a little bit more. First you'll notice that we've taken the back shell off and it's pretty standard as taken off the other shells but there is something to remember since you've got your bezel has screws here and one down here. Now the one down here is still in place but to get that outer shell off you do have to take this one screw out and loosen this bezel up and then you can slip your metal out from behind there but you take that off on both sides of the top you can't take it off the bottom and then just clean under there but that's something to note on this monitor. You do need to take that off when you're taking off your shell and then when we get it back together I'll show you the other points where the shell the screws go into the shell to hold it in place but as I said let's just take a quick look around here and give you an initial look at what the inside of this PVM looks like when you remove that outer shell. Okay so first things we're taking a look directly at the back of the PVM now and I cannot again tell you how important it is to even if you don't know anything about your PVM you need to take the shell off once you first get it and check for dust inside your PVM. This one was completely loaded with dust and it's this it's got a manufactured date of almost 2004 December 2003 so over the time of the last 15 years just an enormous amount of dust will build up inside of these units sometimes and then after 15 years dust build up that can start to overheat your components and your electrical parts and cause insulation and more heat to build up than intended and will cause damage to the PVM that is largely preventable by taking it apart. If you need help with cleaning inside of a PVM we'll have many videos on that and there's also a good video that I put together a while back about how to discharge a PVM that way if you're concerned with getting any kind of electrical shock you don't even have to really worry but if you're really concerned you could discharge the PVM and then clean it but you really need to knock off as much dust as you possible of all this stuff and then the best thing to do is use compressed air I have a full-time air compressor so it would be really hard if you have a lot of dust to use like a compressed air can that you might get from Office Depot just a little one you might need a full air compressor so keep that in mind but you need to get that dust out of there first things first and if you're ever considering to purchase a PVM you always want to ask for pictures of the inside so you can see what condition it is so you can see if there's dust if it's been cleaned also that means your cellar will open it see the dust and most likely want to clean it somewhat for you so let's just go on here and look I mean obviously we've got our anode cap now this is not turned on not plugged in don't worry and but the thing to notice that's extremely different is the yoke this is much more heavy-duty a lot more stuff going on in this yoke there's a couple more adjustment potentiometers which honestly I'm not even certain as to what they might do I believe maybe it's some color control because it kind of is labeled maybe that said I'll do some more research in the manual and find out but specifically I've not ever seen this yoke so I'll try to get in here and let you take a closer look at how mammoth that yoke is because later on I'm going to show you another yoke that is the same and most all other PVMs on a separate one but some other things to note on the yoke let's just try to swing around here I want you to see how much space there's very little space a lot of stuff is cramped in here and not like in past models we have a lot of room to work around so just look back here I'm gonna move this cord out of the way and you can see down here where our CRT gun is and you'll notice that the convergence rings are actually separated you got two here two here and then another set of two over here and just a lot of stuff going on here now that's probably better if you need to make adjustments you know won't accidentally hit the wrong rings where the six rings that you are usually all on top of each other and other setups for CRTs and we've got our neckboard here with some more potentiometers I'm sure these are manual controls to the color in case we're not having any response on our menus we could come back here and adjust colors manually we've also got a potentiometer down here to try to swing around here that will adjust our convergence now I said that there was something on the yoke to pay attention to do you see this screw right here where my finger is right in front of those convergent strings there will be a screw like that on nearly every yoke especially Sony PVM that screw can be loosened it doesn't have to be all the way untightened but loosened and it will help you maybe a little bit to be able to move your yoke left or right clockwise or counterclockwise a little bit to adjust it I said in the past that you don't you still don't have to but honestly it would be a good practice to loosen that up just a tiny bit move your yoke a little bit and then retighten it on the electron gun down there so we'll go and take a look now at because I want you to see just take a quick look again at this yoke at how big it is over here it looks compared to this next yoke which is on a tube in another part of the shop let's go there now okay take a quick look here at this tube that has been taken out of a Sony PVM see it's a Sony Trinitron tube still this one came out of Sony PVM 1953 MD and I did not remove the yoke assembly from it although that does come off but I wanted to show you on here an example of again this is that single screw also you can notice how much different this yoke looks it's got about half as much stuff on it as the 20L5 so most of the time your yoke will look like this in a smaller end PVM but on this example here I want to show you this screw how it's just now if you're working on this you don't need to touch it but you can work that screw around and once you've got it loosened you see how easy if you've got it loosened you can actually get that yoke to come back a little bit and adjust very smoothly and you get it back to the spot where you want turn it on to test and once you get it down into the right spot then you can just come in and tighten down that screw not over tighten just tighten down till it gets to the point where it's hand tight and that's going to be how you can make a good yoke adjustment and let's go back now and take a look at the 20L5 again all right back here again at the back of the 20L5 and you can see right away how much bigger again this yoke assembly is so again we'll need to loosen that one screw a little bit and this one's going to need to probably come back a touch because I had a hard time even getting it to wiggle. We'll set up our calibration screen later and we'll move this into place because that's the biggest thing is getting the yoke set and then you can pretty much make all the rest of the adjustments on this monitor from the service menu. Some other things that are similar on this monitor to others is if you follow your line here their high voltage line there let's go and look at it from the side here we're looking at the fly back right here still not as easy to get to as the 20L2 but it is side service so there is a way to get a smaller screwdriver in there and service it but please note on here a lot of times when you get these monitors open you'll see silicone was originally put on the back of some of these things that are adjustable okay so the service tech would set the potentiometer here potentiometer and the setting on the screen and then they come back here and silicone it in hopes that it wouldn't come out of adjustment and it was hopefully one time adjustment for most monitors now occasionally you will need to tighten up your focus on here which is usually the top one if you're noticing this blurry no this one does have a focus setting that you can do from the sub menu so you should always try those sub menu settings first but older monitors do not have a sub setting for focus so you may have to tighten up that top one and in the bottom one controls brightness so if over time you have an older tube and it starts to go dim you can always come back here and turn up the brightness just a touch or and and help extend the use of that tube but just know that that is a case sometimes where the tube starts to get darker if you have you might need to turn that up over it after it's aged some and some other things to look around around here again this is very tight put together so this one has no issues that I could tell that won't be a changeable from the sub menu so we will still want to get in here and probably change out the capacitors at least on this deflection board or my finger is which will mean a whole tear down of this monitor so we'll get going around back here we've got our video inputs and again this is a standard input for this monitor a lot like the 20L2 actually exactly like the 20L2 so you've got your RGB and component and mono audio and let's take a look now and see if I can get a shot of it's very hard to maybe see if you can see the shininess down here under the yoke that's actually the mono speaker all the way under the deflection board right there at the base of the monitor I know it's hard to see from this camera angle way down there that's where the mono speaker is so it's not on the front or the sides of the back it's actually down there again a lot of this stuff has been put together and cramped in a little bit tighter you got a lot of lines connecting the boards this board back here is controlling your input card and most likely you won't need to worry about the capacitors on something like this going bad it's not a high-use board in the monitor and so taking it apart and doing capacitor kit is probably not necessary unless you notice something leaking the most important things are going to be there's a few capacitors here on this neck board that if you took it apart you'd want to change the deflection board area down there and then if you have any kind of issues with power you can check these down here next to the flyback to bring it in the power but also this power board here could be having an issue with capacitors and those could be changed that's a lot of capacitors again but if you wanted to have every capacitor you might want to do the power board as well as the deflection board one and two and then the of course the neck board also if you were doing the deflection board so for now that's going to be our extensive look at the inside of this monitor initially just to say again please make sure you clean it even if that's all you do is just open it up clean it after you get your monitor and put it back together and then run it for tests this is the way I usually always go in this steps to service a monitor when I first get it I I do what I did the first video where we took it apart you know we just looked at it initially tested it a little bit and then I always turn it off clean it and then I get back into testing it more before it's ready to either be repaired or sent out and to be used on a full-time basis one more thing to show you here I did go ahead and take the whole bezel off again and so when you've got this bezel off here it's great time to what I did was I cleaned really good around the monitor and I cleaned around the bezel to just used alcohol and Windex and it just did a fantastic job of cleaning that bezel up and the screen up it looks brand new so that's gonna do it for today's second look at this video in the next video since we've got this one cleaned and ready to go we're gonna put it back into the service mode I'm gonna talk about what I use to calibrate my calibration software and then we're gonna go straight into calibration so the third video will be just starting right in with the geometry calibrations and depending on how long that one is we might need to separate the color calibration videos into number four and then we'll keep going on and keep getting more episodes into deeper servicing on the 20l5 but thanks again and please leave a like if you really like the content and look forward to more content from RetroTech