 So, I have just made a pretty amazing discovery. These PVM bezels are pretty much the same. They're interchangeable, at least. They are slightly different. You'll notice this one does not have a tally light, but I could still move the bezels just because the tally light's there. It's got a covering. This bezel is destroyed from the shipping disaster video. But the PVM inside of it, mechanically, is perfect. So I want to get that out of this bezel. And at the same time, this is a bad PVM. Something's really wrong with it. We're going to reuse the bezel from this and put it on this monitor. And also, we're going to use this tube in another project because it's a 600 line tube and I can use it with another monitor that doesn't have a tube. So we're going to part all this stuff out. And it's really been a long time since I've torn a monitor completely apart. But let's go ahead now. We're going to start doing it today. First take a look at the 1350. I'm going to get this sticker off. This sticker has all my button layouts for the 1350 specifically. And it's held in place by just a sticky kind of glue adhesive. If you pull this slowly and you're lucky like I was on this particular sticker, a lot of that glue will come off and still be pretty well usable when you transfer it over to the good bezel. Sony had designed these bezels so that you could switch them in between models. There's the same number of button holes on each one of these bezels even though there are more buttons on this donor bezel. I'm going to start by taking apart the donor monitor first. So I need to remove the shell, which I've already done here. And now I'm going to just discharge it and then go through the process of removing each board. Just remember, you should always discharge the CRT. Sometimes they won't hold any charge, especially a PVM. But it's always a great practice and idea to be safe and just go ahead and discharge the monitor. Now, all the boards have been removed out of the way and I will not be removing the actual yoke from the tube. I'll be leaving that in place. Now I just need to get a lot of these cables out of the way. There's also a few ground connections here on the metal shielding. This metal shielding also houses our degausing cable underneath it. I don't want to scratch the screen surface on my tube so I'm going to work with it face down on a pillow. This way the screen will be protected. It's also a lot easier to work on it while it's sitting on the ground. I'm going to remove the remaining screws that are holding these ground loop cables onto the shielding and then I'm going to go ahead and remove the other bolts that are holding the shielding as well as the tube onto this bezel. Now that all the screws have been removed, I'm going to slowly pull off the shielding with the degausing cable inside of it out of the way. Now make sure you don't impact that against the neck of the tube because it's very fragile in that area and if you bust the tube, it's ruined. The 1350 does not support a tally light so I'm going to go ahead and remove the light as well as the cabling from here. Then I need to get the control board out of the way. This is the button control board that's on the front with the knobs for volume, et cetera. It's held into place with just some Phillips head screws. I'm going to leave the speaker and the power on button inside the bezel. The power button and the speaker are the exact same OEM parts from Sony in both monitors. So again, I'm just going to leave those two within this bezel. My last step to prepare my donor bezel is to get rid of the original sticker that's on here. Unfortunately, this sticker's a little bit more difficult to get off than the 1350 was but thankfully I don't need to reuse it. So once it's off, there's a lot of built up glue and film on here and before I clean that off, I'm going to go ahead and pull out these extra buttons. You have to be real careful with these buttons. It looks like they're actually melted into place using a plastic rivet. So I decided to pull each button individually back and then use my snips and just snip them out of the way. Once I have my buttons set for my new PVM, I'm going to start my heavy cleaning of the shell and bezel. I like to start cleaning by mostly using warm water and just some really nice high quality Windex. I don't spray the Windex directly on the plastics, I spray it onto the towel that I'm using to clean. Then I'll use that saturated paper towel to clean off any residue or gunk that's remaining on the bezel. I've cleaned up this bezel completely and now I'm ready for the next step which would be to get this to apply to the front here for my overlay. It's just got some glue on the back so I'm going to first try to just attach it the way it is. So even my glue was in such good shape that it really didn't take much else, at least for right now, to get that into place and to stick there with the overlay. So now I'm just going to go ahead and swap everything from that other monitor into this bezel. So this saw needs to come out now and we'll put it over in that other bezel. Now I'm going to quickly disassemble my 1350 monitor so I can get it ready to place into its new bezel. Now I can finally get rid of all this electrical tape that I had to basically rig up on the tube here to keep it from falling back and smashing against the main A-board. This was the tube and monitor that was damaged heavily in a shipping video that I'll tag right up at the top, right hand at the screen if you'd like to go check it out. Now I will be taking all the parts out of this bezel including the screws and the speaker and the power button and even the Sony emblem because I can reuse all those parts. But if we take a closer look at our broken bezel I want to show you what was really damaged and unfortunately it's not going to be repairable. Now the corners of this bezel are what structurally hold that CRT tube in place. That's a very vital point on the bezel and the monitor overall. See this one's just completely missing right here. Here's a look at how bad some of this just broke off. Here's the plastic parts that were in those spots and they can't be reattached for this to safely be used again. Most likely they would just fall off after you tried to put screws back in them. I'm going to keep this bezel though because maybe I can use it for something like a cool picture frame or some kind of weird art setup. Next I'm going to move a lot of the parts over from the 1350 into the donor bezel. I'm going to start with the knob and button control board. So there's my board it's installed. My cabling came with the board and then plugged into the speaker that I left here. I'm going to go ahead and connect the power button but it's going to be difficult to try to do that if the tube's already in place with all the degausing coil and shielding. So I'm going to take this opportunity now to clean this tube glass and then I'll reset it. I'm trying to set my tube down in my new frame but I'm having a little trouble. It's not wanting to line up perfectly. Something is in the way or preventing my screw holes from lining up between my tube and my bezel. So let's go check it out and see what's going on. Now there's a metal band around the CRT tube that holds the little mounts on and those mounts bent a little bit from the bezel impact. So I just took my needle nose pliers and bent them back into shape and I'll try to reset that down in this bezel frame and this time it fits like a glove. Next I'm going to reinstall the shielding that includes the degausing coil. I'm not going to use the 1350's original shielding degausing coil because it too was damaged but all you need to do is install the four screws back with the shielding in place and the tube is mounted and ready to go. Everything looks good around back and then if I check out the front of the screen I want to make sure I don't have any open gaps between the screen and the bezel and I don't. I've gone ahead and reassembled the monitor completely. That means I've reinstalled all three major boards and I've connected all the cables and now let's get ready for some first time screen testing. All right, so right away the menu comes up seems to be working fine. I'm going to test some video signal now into the monitor and also test some of the buttons but it appears to be working fine. I always like to try the degausing button right away just to see if anything happens that's not supposed to happen but everything appears to be working fine. Now that the PVM is reassembled and working good we need to tear it apart again and install a new cap kit. I'm going to be replacing all the geometry caps on the main board because they are from the original manufacturer's date of 1996. So let's go back and start tearing this monitor down again. I'm showing you all this because I have a special surprise repair coming up that I wasn't anticipating while I was making this video. So please watch the video in its entirety so you can see this crazy repair that I have to do at the end. I've got my main board pulled and I'm going to start removing the old capacitors. These capacitors directly impact my geometry controls for my screen. In order to get the best geometry on screen I'll replace all these geometry capacitors. After I've completed the capacitor replacement I'm going to clean all the remaining flux residue off the board just using some isopropyl alcohol. Then I like to go and inspect my work basically double check to make sure I haven't put any capacitors in the wrong direction or I haven't put the wrong value capacitor in a spot on the board. I'm ready to reassemble the PVM and give it a test run with the new capacitors. I'll just get my RGB adapter plugged up here and we'll turn it on and see what the screen looks like. Well, here's the surprise repair I was telling you about. It looks like I've done something to cause a vertical line collapse on my picture. Wonderful. So again, now I get to disassemble the monitor another time and take a look at my main chassis to see what the problem is. At this point I think I could take this monitor apart and reassemble it in my sleep. I've done it so many times. But thankfully I already have a pretty good idea of what's wrong here on my main chassis. One of the vertical ICs was slightly damaged in the shipping video. You can see it moved a little bit here and originally I never went back and re-soldered it. So that's really all I needed to do was re-solder it. It had developed a cold solder joint and that was pretty much my guess as to the reason why I have that line collapse on my screen. So let's reassemble the monitor, power it back up and see. Great, that's what I love to see. The screen works fine now and that IC directly controls screen collapse. So if you have a collapsed screen, you could either have a cold solder joint or a bad IC. Well, I got the monitor working again. It's been fully recapped. We've got the IC repaired. We also had the bezel changed out and overall it looks great. I gotta say though I'm really gonna miss this monitor once it goes because I learned so much and put so many hours into this repair. But now we gotta move on to the next one. Please feel free to leave any questions or comments below and thanks for watching today. I'll see you next time with some more retro content.