 What's up everybody this is Ryan Belmonti from John Paul Mitchell Systems and today We're here to walk you through not only a hand-painting touch-up But another way that we could use multi-dimensional toning on our blonde guests to give them a different more blended and result While also creating some opportunities to make some more money for us behind the chair We look at this hand-painting touch-up technique often I get asked how do you touch up a highlight today? We're starting off with horizontal rounded sections and you can see that our sections kind of smile a little bit meaning that They're just rounded up slightly in the corners What that's going to do for me is just give me an overall softer appearance to my color any time that I work with a hand-painted Situation with a guest I want this outlook to look as natural as humanly possible And so by working with the round of the head in the head shape It gives me an opportunity working not only round but horizontal to place color exactly where I want it And so as we come here we look at our first section in the nape area Though my model Molly has been previously blonde it the underneath has not been blonde at all So from about the high occipital down This is all her natural hair color. So we're coming in here. We're creating a canvas from blank You'll notice my saturation is a hundred percent I'm working all the way through my section and working it through with my non hand that I have glove And I'm using that almost as a board or or a palette for me to paint off of and make sure that I get great Saturation on my section my brush strokes are vertical and they're also very gentle And you'll notice too throughout this process I'll come in with this brush right here when you see me working with this brush know that off-camera Kind of working in on a damp towel and what that's doing is allowing me to come in and erase Some color that maybe I don't want a lot of people constantly ask How do I get rid of lines when it comes to the natural hand painting and Balayage techniques? This is one way that I really do that the other thing is this you need to look at your section Before you move on to the next section and ask yourself does this look great? If it looks great now chances are it's going to look great after processes if it doesn't look great now Nothing magical is going to happen between now and 30 45 minutes later when it processes that it's going to look better As I work up the head shape you'll notice that I'm starting to switch up my technique So I worked off in the beginning with a heavy sketching type technique Which basically is covering the entire panel of the hair from scalp to ends with lightener as I work up the hair You'll see that I'm starting to pull a little bit more vertically with some of these pieces and create a little bit more of a stronger vertical look in certain sections and Each section is going to be slightly different whether the width of the section is different whether the technique is different through that section And again the reason why I do that is because I never want to work overly Uniformed when my overall result wants to look natural and blended so you can see me working up into the crown area You'll see that this campus is telling me I don't need to be much blonder on these ends and so in this section here. I'm going to hit that root heavy I'm going to blend that gently into the midsection, but it's almost like going back into the the ombre days Almost like a reverse ombre on this section. My ends are already lightened I need to make sure that I get that root popping and I need to make sure that I don't blend too much product over that mid shaft that I'm creating an excess amount of damage or Making it too white in the middle of that section and and not as light on the ends as I move to the side I'm shifting now to a horizontal diagonal back The reason why I'm doing this is because naturally the hairline goes from the recession to the mastoid process in a diagonal horizontal back Range and so again I'm following that hairline and working with the natural round of the head Noticing that I'm painting up higher around the face and why do I do that is because that's where my guests are always looking around Their face pulling at that blonde hair doing this little move that they do after the appointment, right? It's not blonde enough or it's perfect and so right in here is where I really want to pop that blonde out I'm also painting those front sections around her hairline Just kind of dusting them back and again what that's going to do because I'm working horizontally in Natural fall when she pulls her hair back that now becomes vertical placement So I want to be careful that I'm softening those edges around the face and dusting them back To ensure that when my guest puts her hair back She doesn't have any unwanted lines as you can see Molly came up nice and clean working with our skylight Clay powder lightener in this situation I chose 40 volume because I wanted to get as blonde as I possibly could I knew that her fabric could take it and Understand that 40 volume is not going to work the same way as it does in a foil So damage wise I knew that her hair could take it as a matter of fact with her finer fabric I know that it's going to help her and Accentuate some of that volume that she's looking for in her styling now typically in the salon a lot of hairstyles We run to one tone right we look at the darkest that the blonde has come up clean and we say okay cool level 8 Let's go with a level 8 toner and there's nothing wrong with that and often I do that but for some of my guests I like to create what I call a dimensional blonde effect and so What I'm able to do with that is I'm taking three different tones to create more of a natural feel to the overall experience When we look at natural hair we have cool We have warm and we have neutral tones throughout those natural hair strands that go home and look at your kids Hair or or virgin hair if you could find a head anywhere and really look at the individual tones up front You'll see that hair natural hair is not all one color like a single process and so by utilizing three different toners It's going to give me a much more natural blended result to the outcome of my work I'm working with seven R and ten pn two part seven R to one part seven pn The color XG working with five volume the reason why I'm working with five volume is because I don't want to disturb the natural color of her hair I don't want to break that base per se and so with using a permanent color that has a higher ammonia I just want to make sure I work with a five volume You also notice that I've wet the hair down what I'm looking for here is not a vibrant result But something a little bit more hollowed out So I've lifted it as high as I possibly can and now I'm kind of Emulsifying that product on damp hair to give me more of a blended result so I'm allowing for the dampness of the hair to Let my colors blend a little bit better And I'm also allowing for that to help me hollow out that color my next formula is the demi We're working with a nine pa and I cut that with clear equal parts The reason why I added some a into that formula is because you know understanding photography and those of you that know That tungsten light is out there What a tungsten light is it'll just pop your whites out and almost creates a blue hue over everything So by adding a little blue to my blondes It allows me to get that nice pop of white and that platinum in there. So we're working with nine pa We've cut that with the clear What's cool about the clear is it will not dilute the level the clear in the demi from paul michel will not dilute the level It will dilute the pigment So it's just going to give me a nice soft clean tone to that hair My last formula is seven r o and five volume and what this is going to do for me is just give me a nice Pale orangey tone that will sometimes pop in the sunlight But look soft overall and blend it as the end result as I work these formulas throughout you'll notice That i'm strategically placing them Trying not to put the same color in any area But i'm also again looking at my canvas and allowing for that to dictate when and where i'm using what tone If i'm seeing areas that are a little more gold than that i like I'm gonna work with my seven o r and embrace that if i'm looking an area where i want to create a Little bit more of a shadow i'll go with my seven r and ten p.m To make sure that i'm creating that depth in there and that p n is going to give me a little bit control So that overall she's not popping extra vibrancy last but not least that nine pa is going to be able to preserve Any of that platinum blonde that i want to keep in there because as much as i want to add dimension to our look I don't want to make her overly dark. We know how blondes feel dark as soon as they hit a level nine So just utilizing that to kind of preserve that Blonde tone it but also set me up for success in my shampoo because when i shampoo these colors out They will blend together if i'm not protecting any hair and when i say protecting i mean putting a product or a conditioner over it If i were to leave this blonde raw and not cover it with a conditioner or this nine pa and the demi What it would probably do is take on some of the characteristics of that seven r and that seven o r and really start to get rusty on me So it's just going to add for protection and soften that tone and give me again an overall blended look So as i'm working up this hair shop, you'll notice some areas i'm only working at the root other areas I'm pulling all the way mid shaft to ends the last thing that i'm doing is i'm taking a wide tooth comb And i'm actually combing all of these colors together The number one reason why i'm doing that is because i don't want any holidays or holes in my color I want to make sure that i'm getting great saturation from scalp to ends and covering every piece of hair in here The other reason why i'm doing that is because again I don't want you to know when my low light ends and begins and so by combing this through on damp hair It's going to give me an opportunity to get the cleanest end result With all three of these tones blending together as we finish up the end result with molly's hair i'm really enjoying the way that all of the tones are mixing together But she's still blonde being able to create a multi-dimensional blonde with different tones and they're Utilizing our color xg our demi and blending them together with that wide tooth comb is what's giving us this soft yet Vibrant end result what i love about this look is it's going to give molly a head turning look in the sun But something soft and beautiful when she's a natural light because of the way that we applied our color You can't really tell where that the tones begin and where the tones end and that's exactly what we're looking for On behalf of john palmichael systems. I want to thank my very good friend matt beck for having me on free salon education dot com I want to thank palmichael for the opportunity If you guys want to get a little bit more connected with us and the company that i work for That makes my life easier behind the chair go to palmichael.com and last but not least If you guys want to stay in touch with me. You have any questions for me Um, i'm on instagram all day every day at hashtag runchy. That's hashtag the word hashtag h-a-s-h-t-a-g r-u-n-e-c-h-i See on the grim