 Today's video is about how I use my Small Workshop Guy's Saw Stallion as a gigantic, flexible mortising jig. Well, I would work. Here's Paul Carlson here, Small Workshop Guy. Very often, if I'm doing a project and that involves cutting out a lot of identical mortises in various pieces, then I will take the time to build a template or a pattern. And then I will use a bushing guide. The problem is that my pattern has some depth to it, and so if I need a really deep cut, then that might limit how far down with a certain bit I can go. I have an alternative, in fact, as I use it often when I don't want to stop and build a template, because that takes time. With this setup that I'm going to show you, I can use these saw horses, which I call Saw Stallions. That's a set of saw horses that have match fit dovetail grooves in the top, in the sides of the top, and in all of the faces of the legs and the bottom trestle. The beauty of that is I can use these match fit dovetail clamps for a lot of flexible clamping capability, as well as use my regular DeWalt clamps, because when you're using saw horses or saw stallions, you've got a lot of places to clamp things, because you've got all this room underneath. Just try to do that on a workbench. Once I get this setup for one piece, then it's really easy for me to do identical pieces where the mortise is going to be in the same place. This line is where I line up the beginning of the mortise. So I can use a roofing square or a speed square here, and I can line it up to my index line and then see if I've got that lined up perfectly with the beginning of my mortise. Once I get that set with my clamps, and the beauty of clamps is I can either be using the leg here or I can use the slot here. In this case, I needed to use this slot because this piece is not over the leg, so this gave me an alternative. On this end over here, I couldn't use the slot, so I used the leg. So lots of capabilities. In order to make sure the router stops at that ending point, I happen to know that on that part of my router, the leading edge, that I have a 2 and 5 eighths distance from the edge of the half inch bit. And again, this would change for each bit, but the edge of the half inch bit to the edge of the router base. And so if I set a stop block there, then when the router base runs into this speed square, it will stop moving and it'll stop where it's supposed to stop on that end. Get that lined up with that stop spot, clamp her down. My router is going to start here and then run until it runs into this and that should go from here to here. The beauty is once you do this once for one cut, since you're going to use the same reference space for all of your mortises and your pieces hopefully are dimensioned to be exactly identical, then you won't have to make this adjustment again. Make sure you follow the manufacturer's instructions for how far you need your router bit to be in the collet. For this boss, they say I must have that router bit in their 5 eighths of an inch or more. So after all of that setup, then there is my first mortise. Check that out, make sure everything's working well. I like that. You know, if anything, stay short because then you can square it off. You're going to square it off anyway with your chisels. So stay a little short of your intended line. Don't go a little long. Otherwise you'll have a gap depending on how you do your tenon. But better to be short and then chisel it out to your line than to be long because you're not going to chisel it back if you follow me. Alright, so I have that work piece and I do that mortise. Let's say I have an identical work piece. Then I would just take the work piece out, put in the identical work piece. Everything stays the same. I just line that mortise in the new work piece up with this line here and then I cut it and then I put in the other one and I cut it and I put in another one and I cut it and all of my setup here stays the same, you know, other than releasing these and releasing the work piece and putting in a new one. Now I want to keep my reference face for my edge guide the same. So I got the little carrot here marking that and this is 90 degrees to this face so that's my reference face. So what I'm trying to say is I don't want to take this out here and then rotate it around to where this is now up against there because then my edge guide would be on a different face. So I need to actually bring things down. I would then simply take all of the pieces where I'm going to have an identical mortise and an identical type of piece and I would just simply take this piece out, leave all of this the same, put in the new piece and then tighten everything down and then do my mortise. Put in a new piece, do my mortise. Put in a new piece, do my mortise. Maybe I have to do that eight times or something but I never have to change my setup after that first one. So no template, no bushing guides, no wide base keeping me from getting a deep plunge. No clamping problems because I got every possible clamping configuration a guy could or a gal could walk and work slick as can be and that is how I use the small workshop guys, saw stallions in order to cut a lot of really nice mortises. If you find my videos helpful at all do me a favor please subscribe, please give me a thumbs up. If you don't like the video hit the thumb down twice to emphasize that you don't like it. And then leave a comment for me if you would and subscribe to my channel and if you want to support me on Patreon there's a Patreon link down below and the plans for my saw stallions are on my website at Small Workshop Guy.com and it's got a grand total of $9.99 for sketch up plans and 12 how to build videos. Small Workshop Guy, signing off. This is, I've got a Bosch router this is a three and a half horsepower one I've got an edge guide on it it's not three and a half horsepower I'm just trying to talk while I'm saying here it's a two and a quarter horsepower actually in other words it's a big Bosch it's a powerful one and that'll give me the starting point again you can probably just get your router plunged down where you need it to be come on, just because I'm on film that doesn't mean you gotta stop working