 Hey, everybody, it's Kevin here, and in this video, I'm going to walk you through the setup of the Godox AD600 Pro TTL, also known as the Flash Explorer 600 Pro TTL by Adorama, same strobe, just different names. All right, let's get started. So hopefully, you've got to this point, you've set it up, you've charged your battery. Now, one tip I have is that you should separate the battery from the unit when charging the battery. I charged mine when it was attached, and I read that later. So something to think about. Now, the power button is on the bottom of the unit, and you press that. I guess the reason for that position, I thought it was a little odd, I couldn't find it at first. I guess I don't want you knocking it on and off by accident. So let's look at the main menu. So one of the reasons why people get this, we're set to menu. So if you hit menu, you get to this where it says color. Now, one of the reasons why people like this is because it's color accurate plus or minus 75. Now, this also does high speed sync, which is probably the reason why you bought it. If you're not familiar with high speed sync, if you're shooting with regular strobes on a Canon camera, you're usually capped at a 200 shutter speed or 250 on a Nikon. So if you're outside on a sunny day and the shutter speed should be 2000 for an accurate exposure of the background, then you need an ND filter, which is what I've used in the past. I have videos about that. I'll put a link below in the description if you want to use an ND filter. In the past, I used a minus three ND filter to bring down some of the ambient, but this will allow you to shoot without that. Although in high speed sync mode, it's not going to be color accurate plus or minus 75. It goes to plus or minus 200. So I'll just demonstrate that. So go to color on your menu. To get there, you just click menu, color, hit the set button, go to on, and then you can see I've got that on. If I go back out, you can see it now says M color. Now if I switch to high speed sync by pressing this lightning bolt with the H, we lose our color in the menu. And then if we go back to menu to have a look at that, you can see by default it switched it to off. So it's not going to be plus or minus 75 in high speed sync. It's plus or minus 200. So I just want to clarify that. So let's get back out and I'll walk you through some of this menu. So here, this button here, the red lightning bolt, sometimes when you change your exposure, so let's say you were shooting at f 5.6, you had your strobe set that, and then you went down f4. You've got to discharge that, or your next shot is still going to be at 5.6. So that will allow you to discharge the flash. Now we have the modeling light here. We also have the beep indicator. We have the high speed sync button, which we talked about. We have the menu. We have the mode. So you have different modes to shoot in. So you can shoot in manual, multi or TTL. So TTL is through the lens metering. So if you have a compatible trigger, there's compatible triggers for TTL, for Nikon Canon, all the different brands, Sony. So you can use the through the lens metering system of your camera to automatically set the flash exposure. So for example, you could set this up, look through your camera, take a shot, and it will decide the proper exposure for your flash. Although I like to use it in manual and for this reason, let's say that you're shooting and you're pointed this way and everything's great, but then you kind of turn this way and the background changes a bit. It could change the flash output to something that you don't want. So I prefer to use it in manual mode, but it's up to you how you want to use it. So let's go through some of the other buttons there. We already talked about the high speed sync. Now, if you go here, you have different options. So you have settings. You can manually set the modeling light. So at 10%, 20, 30, 40, 50, and that's different from what the light set at. So let's say, for example, your light is set at half power when it goes off, but you could set the modeling light to 100% if you wanted to or 10%. So that's that mode. Also, you have off and then you have 20. And there's also a proportional setting too. And the proportional setting sets it in proportion to the power of your strobe. This LCD setting, this allows you to set the contrast of your LCD display, which I have mine at plus three, which makes it a little more contrasty. Also too, if we go up to light, you can see your on, off, or 15 seconds, this controls the LCD panel. So normally I would have that set to 15 seconds. So if I make some adjustments, the light goes off, saving me a bit of battery power. I've got it on just for the purpose of this video right now. And then if we look at some of the other features too, we have the standby mode, which will put this in standby. So if you forget about it, you don't turn it off. That'll turn it off for you. And then we also have the modeling light. So slave mode is if you're using a couple of different strobes. And let's say that you don't have a trigger for this one. When the other strobe goes off, it could fire this one if it's in slave mode. So you can go through S1 or S2, see which one you prefer. Now also too, I just want to cover one more thing here. And let me just get out of this mode here. So we have our groups. So we have our channels and we have our groups. So how that works is you can set it for channel one, make sure that your trigger is set on channel one. I have the Nikon compatible trigger. And then also have to do is just make sure that this trigger here is set on channel one and the same group. So this would be light A. So let's say you had three strobes, for example. This would be A, then the hair light might be B, and then maybe a little fill light from below might be C. And then you can independently adjust each light from the top of your camera just by making sure that you're on the right group. So A, B, C, those would be groups. Now as far as the channel would go, let's say for example you're set on channel one and you go to a photography workshop. Somebody else has the same strobe. They're in the other side of the room shooting a different model. And they're on channel one. Every time they take a shot, your strobe would go off. So that's the reason for the different channels. If you're near another photographer with the same setup, you could just say what channel you were on. I'm going to go to channel three and then you could shoot within the same proximity at, say, a workshop. So that's the only time I would think you would need to use that feature. I've never had to change to a different channel. I don't think I've ever been in that situation, but that could be one where you'd want to do that. So here's the compatible trigger. And one thing too that you've got to set on this trigger is by default this trigger is set at 128. So this can go to 1, 256 power. So there's a wider power range than some of their other strobes. So you'll have to go to this on the menu here. And then you can go through the different features. You can scroll through this wheel. And you can see here, I'll get to that and then I'll explain a couple more things. But you want to set this to 128. And you'll see it in a second right there. So 256. So by default it's set at 128. If you're using it with the 600, set it to 1256. And then this will allow you to control the full range. So that's something that you should do once you set this up. Now also too, I wanted to show you can turn the beep on and off. And there's another feature too. If you're using the 600, set it to 600. You can see they have different flashes in their system range that they have. And also too, there's a proximity setting. Go with the lowest setting of 0 to 30. That'll give you more accuracy with your trigger. So those are the key things that I wanted to show you. And then of course too, when we go out, you can see I have this at 132. We have this at 132. And then just this, you'll see that it just on the strobe as well. So you can remotely adjust all of these features from your trigger, from your camera. So if you have a three light setup, you have a hair light, a fill light. You have an overhead light. You can just switch from each group and control the power of each with this compatible trigger. Now there's two more things I wanted to pass on. To shoot in high speed sync, you have to set this to high speed sync as well as your strobe. And then on the Nikon camera, I'll show you in a second how to set that up. And then that will allow you to shoot in high speed sync. So make sure that if you're not shooting in high speed sync, if something's wrong, make sure that this is set to high speed sync, that your strobe is set to high speed sync and that your camera is set to high speed sync. And then everything should work fine. Now if you have any comments or questions, you can post them in the comment box below. Now also too, at the end of this video, I'm going to show you how to upgrade your software or update it. So there's a little USB-C port here at the top. And I'll show you the web page where you can get the latest software. All right, so let's go to that portion of the video. All right, so press your menu button and then look for the pencil icon on the left. You can also touch your screen or use the dial. Then go to bracketing and look for flash sync speed. Make sure you're on one 250 auto FP. One 250 auto FP, that's the correct setting for high speed sync. All right, in this section of the video, I'm going to show you how to update your firmware. Now if you're having any difficulties with any of your Godox gear, whether you're trigger or whether you're strobes, contact the dealer where you purchase from, or also contact Godox support, I believe they have a one-year warranty. Now here's how you would update your firmware. If you go to their website, Godox.com, and you go to download, just click on download here, you can see a list of the different software updates they have for all of their products. So you can see here, they've got something what they call the Godox one firmware upgrade software. You need the Godox 2 version. So right here, Godox G2. Now the only thing is, it seems like this is Windows only. So if you're a Mac user, you're going to have to find a way to get a hold of a Windows computer or install it on a boot drive. I have another video on my channel about how to install Windows on a Mac if you don't have a Windows computer available in your Mac user. So you would download this software and then you would look for your models as well. So for example, I'm using the Nikon trigger. I can see the version right here. So V1.4. If for some reason I'm on, say, 1.2, then I'd have to download this and update it. Also for your lights here, they have the AD600. So look for your version here. They also have the date that it came out. So you can check your version on your strobe as well as your triggers and just see that if they're up to date. If not, download the software and update them. All right, it's Craig back to here. Once again, I just want to say thanks for watching this video. If you have any comments or questions, you can post them in the comments section below. Now, if you're not already a subscriber, I release a new video every single week. If you want to be updated, hit that subscribe button. 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