 Alright man, you gotta tell me, what's the story with this random 1987 NASCAR poster? Oh man, that is the legendary Tim Richmond poster. What do you mean the legendary Tim Richmond NASCAR poster? Come on, you can't tell me you've never heard of the legend Tim Richmond. This guy right here? Oh yeah, Tim Richmond was one of the biggest party boys of the 1980s. And this poster right here? This was one of his greatest gags. Why don't you take a closer look at Tim's hand? So I'm trying to look down here? Yeah, right next to that guy's head. Oh, this guy in front of him. Right behind his ear. What do you see? Is that what I think it is? I know, right? Isn't that crazy? I don't know man, this can't be real, right? This gotta be a joke. Well of course it's real. I got that at the 2006 Daytona 500 in the Denny's right out front. Wow, so you're telling me you actually got this in 2006 at a Denny's? That's right, the Denny's. I got it from this old guy and he had this booth set up and he sold me that poster for $20 and told me the legend of Tim Richmond. Of course. Everything great happens at Denny's. I know, right? Isn't that crazy? Well, thanks little Stevie. I wasn't expecting to see something like this today. Hey, no problem, if you like that, you're really gonna love this. I'm out here back in the offloading area garage section of my business and today we're gonna go back and look at one of these broken PVMs that I showed in the shipping problems and the problem with retro video. If you wanna check that video out, here's how you get to that one. But in that video I showed this Olympus and it got just demolished because of poor packing and I couldn't just let this thing sit here and end up in the dumpster. The seller just decided to refund me and not have the CRT picked back up afterwards, which is quite common when you're using ground shipment and it breaks. A lot of times the sellers just don't want it back. So we're gonna salvage as much off this as possible. So this is pretty much all that's left of this CRT that's the one that's damaged. I just took it all apart. You can see I've removed the boards and the bezel and I stripped that bezel down and it was just broken plastic so it's been thrown away and I did take any boards that were off of it and I've saved those but you can see back here this is the back of the tube. I think this tube is okay so I will be saving this tube for now. There's nothing on it that appears to be compromised or scratched so that's one of the last things I'll do is I'll remove this shielding which is good metal and recycle this and then this tube and yoke will stay together and then I'll take these cables and I'll actually scrap these if I don't need any of this stuff and that way it doesn't actually get wasted. It gets reused. Now one thing that is completely smashed is this bottom plastic right here. See that? That's wasted. There's nothing I'm gonna be able to do with that so that's gonna be trashed along with here's a piece here's a portion of our bezel right here. That's all garbage but I'll try to strip out a lot of screws and pull them and keep them. Now the shell is not in perfect condition but it's definitely good enough to reuse. I didn't notice any plastic broken. Here's a box of the main board and I've got to go and inspect it closer but from my initial inspections there's actually not really any hardcore damage to this. I didn't see any breaks in the board and if that's the case that's extremely good news. Like here's our neck board, our input board back here and then our main chassis with our flyback right there. So that board still seems to be in good shape. In this box I've got the other stuff that I've stripped down and removed from the monitor. This is the power supply. It also looks fine. Here's our button board and that looks good. I didn't notice anything broken on it thankfully. This is all the extra high quality hardware. A daughter board, the GA board goes with the power supply. So all those boards are good but what am I going to do with them? Well about two years ago I had UPS destroy a different Olympus OEV and I've since left it alone but I'm going to be able to use the parts from it and hopefully we'll be able to build a good PVM out of these two bad ones. Here's that Olympus PVM and it's in pretty good shape. It was a monitor that I had restored prior to this. The problem was is it was dropped and mishandled in shipping and both these parts right here are broken as you can see and the real major issue is the power button. It just freely goes in and out. It doesn't engage or anything so that's going to have to be replaced or repaired. It's gotten damaged down there. So that's one of the first things we're going to get started with is that on-off button. So here's the other half of the monitor that we're trying to rebuild. So I'm going to give you a closer look in here at this because I'm about to remove this shielding and tube so we can get to that bottom plate. Okay first we're going to remove the shielding here. Now we've got the tube which I will just pick up here by the neck. Woo! There we go. There's the tube. Now check out the damage to this one. It's much worse on the inside. See how this is pushed this switch and actually broken this switch which is the one we're replacing. It's broken the plastic here and check out that amount of impact. That's really pushed in on this side and just look how far it's indented on this side. Same thing over here. So that's kind of a mess but thankfully I was able to find a base plate for this in my boneyard. So instead of trying to fix this one for now what I'm going to do is I'm going to remove this base plate and this power switch. Alright here's this bezel. I've removed the bottom plate which is right here and again you can see that just damage on there on both those spots. If I let you get a closer look you can really tell how much that is messed up when you remove everything. Look at that angle right there and it's the same thing if you get over here. So that if I'd have just left that as is it might have worked but it also would put stress on the boards and could possibly cause a board to crack eventually. So thankfully I have this a complete replacement that I found in my boneyard. So the next thing I'm going to do is I'm going to install this and there like that and then get it ready to install our power button. Alright everybody so right here is the main power switch to the Olympus and you can tell it's pretty much seen its better days. It got really damaged in shipping and we're going to go through and fix this right now and you can see on my camera right up here this is how this switch looks internally. The top half of it busted off and the mechanism that allows you to switch it from on to off is gone but it's a pretty simple switch in here. So what it does is when it's turned on it just closes the paths between this point right here and this point right here. And then to turn the monitor off it just opens that gateway on both of those and then there's no continuity between these two points and the monitor will turn off. The reason I point that out is because this switch can be kind of difficult to find and in case you cannot find the switch mechanism right here if you can get it to close then you'll have it closed and you'll be able to install this switch and you'll just have to use like an external power supply or power strip surge protector and you can use that on off switch to power on your CRT. So just because this gets damaged does not mean that your CRT is completely dead is like a PVM or something. No, we can fix that. So again the options are to get this closed some way and then use this switch so you can do it by closing the switch or if the switch is too far gone and bad you can remove it and just install a jumper between this point to this point and this point to this point and then it'll always be closed. Anytime power is sent into the back of the CRT it will automatically power on. Now thankfully believe it or not I was able to find a replacement power switch here. This is the AC power push switch and I was actually able to find this online on a new old stock parts supplier website. It actually says down here that it was made for PVM 14.05. My plan is to remove this switch, install this switch in its place and that way we'll have a good normal switch on our Olympus. When I'm working with an old board like this sometimes I like to go in here and introduce some new fresh solder onto these points just to try to help loosen up that point of contact for when I bring in the desoldering tool. Okay, now I just come in with my desoldering pump here and we'll just pull the solder from these points. Looks like we still have a little bit more solder in this one so I might just reflow it and try to hit it again with the FR301. Let's see if we can get this to budge at all. Okay, there we go. So sometimes you have to wiggle that a lot to get those legs out. So right here's our new switch and the depopulated J board right here. All right, so before I add the switch in here I'm going to go ahead and clean this area of the board as well as the other side. All right, everything's clean. Now we can stick our new switch into place like that. Just like that, look at there. It's so lovely and wonderfully right into place. We'll set that down there. Now we're ready to apply some fresh solder. Okay, here's our switch. It's been installed. It seems to be working fine. Everything looks good on there. Let's test out the switch and I can use my multimeter to check to see if it's working. First thing is get no continuity between this point and this point, which is correct. And let's close and engage the switch. Now I just need to come in here and clean. Once again, use some more isopropyl alcohol and we'll clean off that flux residue that's left over from the solder itself. That's where that residue comes from. All right, here we have it. Our completely fixed up and repaired J board with our new switch and it's cleaned up and it's ready to go in with the bezel. Right here is our new repaired switch that I've installed and it goes in this orientation and it's screwed in and now I'm going to install that base plate. So check this out. This is the 600 line tube that's the Tritotron tube inside these medical monitors. And this is the same one that's inside the Sony PVM like 20M2MDU or 20M2 series. A lot of Sonys have this 600 line tube in it and I've cleaned it up and I'm about to set it back in my repaired bezel and bottom plate. All right, let's get this tube back in the bezel. Well, here's everything put all back together. I've got the shielding in place and everything's screwed in and I've triple checked everything. All the cabling is plugged up and the front looks great. Just nice and clean. All right, so the next thing is I need to go get all the boards that I've pulled and salvaged and put them in the back of this and then powered on and run a test. So let's hope everything I did was good and all these parts are still good and we'll have something to celebrate. All right, well, you think you're ready? Because I finally got everything reassembled and we're ready to test this PVM and see if it's still good. All right, the power is hooked up, but I promise I've not powered this on since reassembling it. So we'll be seeing together whether this rebuild worked or not, but this is what the monitor looks like when it's put all back together. Okay, for right now I don't have a video source hooked up to this, but that's okay. We're going to see if we could get the on-screen menu to pop up and to say like no sink and stuff. So let's go ahead now and put some power and see what happens. Oh, there's a little bit of a delay there for a second. I thought maybe it wasn't working out, but so far I do hear the degausser and the tube engaging. Oh my goodness. Look at that. Wow. Yes. It says in no sink. The menu seems to be working fine. I can switch the inputs, under-scan and over-scan are working, degauss is working. Okay, this is really something. All right. So fantastic news. The CRT is working great. Ever since I got a signal put into it, I've not had a single issue. I've tried every single input. I've tried a couple of different analog resolutions and video sources and everything's working just so you know this is one of the best analog video solutions. If you're looking for a high-end CRT, now a lot of people will say the BVMs are better and they are slightly better, but this 600 line resolution tube really is a sweet spot for 480i content as well as 240p content. You get some nice defined scan lines and this particular model does have inputs for composite, S-video, component video and RGB with sync and all those features are built right into the back of the monitor. You don't need any extra cards like you do in the BVM. It also has a great on-screen menu and they're really durable monitors compared to many of the BVMs where you don't have to service these nearly as often as some of the higher-end CRTs. All right, everybody. Thanks for joining me today. I'll see you all next time with some more retro content.