 What's happening YouTube? Thanks for tuning back into the channel today right here with the Rust Belt mechanic. So as you guys saw in the description we've got the old Duramax back in to come under the knife. It's been a long day at here at work but we've got a couple more hours to get in. I think we've got some more time to get in under the somewhat sunlight that we've got going on here. Today as you saw in the description we're going to be doing some fuel upgrades. Shown you guys the PPE race fuel valve. We're going to be putting that one into the fuel rail. Shown you how and why it actually works. And then we're also going to be doing a new air dog series 2 4G 165 lift pump for the Duramax as well. So we get all of that fuel from the back all the way to the front. Throne in a deviant race parts sump system as well. Going to be some awesome upfits. Make sure you guys keep watching. Alright so we're going to show you exactly what we're talking about when we say that we're going to be fixing some of the fuel issues that we've got going on with the Duramax. After we've done some of the air modifications that we've done some of the tuning what the tuning does is it actually ramps up the fuel pressure coming out of the CP3 pump. So when it does that there's still a what they call a fuel limiting valve built on to the fuel rail. These fuel rails that run enormous pressures. They run upwards of like 23,000 ish PSI on these are all the way up to up to 29,000. So when we're talking about needing more fuel and getting more fuel to the rail that's what we're going to be fixing with the lift pump but with the fuel race valve what that actually is going to fix is the higher fuel rail pressures. Once you start ramping up that fuel rail pressure it'll actually max out the fuel volume cutoff on the end of the fuel rail. So what this little plug will do is instead of having this little plunger that's built into the end of it that will actually you know shut off the fuel if the fuel rail pressure is too high it will just be a solid valve so you won't have that fuel rail actually cutting off. Normally it's supposed to be kind of a safeguard against the fuel rail pressures just skyrocketing because of an issue with the regulation on the CP3 pump but we don't have that kind of issue especially when we're trying to get as much power and as much pressure into the rail as we're supposed to. So now with the tuning we're ramping them up to like 29,000 PSI and I've got my scan tool hooked up right here my ethos edge looking at the fuel rail pressures and we'll be you know doing a run here in just a minute showing you guys exactly what's happening when that fuel rail pressure ramps up. So now we're going to be doing a pull on the interstate here we're going to be able to roll up to pressure everything is going to be in kilopascals as you can see on the scan tool and this will actually be maxing out our fuel rail. Look in our scan tool we're pressure sensor issue I believe is what the code will be a P0087 I think it's what it's going to be and see exactly what it is is that what it is yep P0087 yep that is due to that fuel rail pressure that fuel regulator cutting itself off when it's maxed out at fuel pressure so running out of fuel because of the lift pump and now we're getting max fuel pressure and that manual valve is shutting itself off so we're going to get these parts installed back at the shop now and the solution to our fuel issue here is going to be replacing our fuel valve with this race fuel valve by PPE here you can see their numbers here for it this is from PPE with the new o-ring seal I opted for getting that new one they said that you don't have to replace that one but I figured you might as well go ahead and do that one so I will go ahead and put the link to that one down in the description as well and we're going to get this one replaced on the Dermax so to be able to access your race fuel valve you're going to want to take out your glow plug module the glow plug module bracket held in with two 10s for that one four 12 millimeter bolts for that one and then we can see it right down right here on the back of the rail it is an 18 millimeter plug right there and you're going to need a longer wrench to get it so we ended up using a long ratcheting wrench to the ones by matco there to be able to get enough leverage just to break it loose and then you're going to get it out the rest of the way just with a open ended wrench so taking a closer look at the difference between the two this one is our factory one taken out as you can see this end would have a sprung weight in between the two and then this would be threaded into the rail so when the fuel rail pressures max out it's going to push this all the way against and this will actually shut off your fuel rail pressure so it drops then down to absolutely nothing like we saw on the comparative between the desired and the actual fuel rail pressure in the video before and then now we're going to be putting this pretty much just solid milled piece into the rail so then when the fuel rail puts all its pressure against this it's not actually going to be shutting any fuel off it's just going to be supplying all the fuel a hundred percent of the time and while we're up here kind of messing around with things we're going to get rid of that dummel resonator up there because we want to hear more you know turbo more boostical noises so we're going to put in this ict resonator plug delete it's just going to put these new little o-rings in, glue them up a bit and it's going to push right down into there it's going to be a tight fit so you're going to have to push pretty hard but it does go right in there now that we've got all of our fuel things done up top we're going to be starting on the real good stuff we've got our brand new air dog two 4g lift pump system this is a 165 model able to pump 165 gallons of fuel per hour and then we also also got from deviant race parts this billet sump system able to go in at the bottom of the tank so you're not going to have any aeration issues if you end up having low fuel or a pickup issue with the factory pickup we're going to be installing that one as well really the only special tools you're going to need for putting this one in which we're going to do first is going to be a three and one quarter inch hole saw and a nice even open space to do it and we're going to go ahead put a hole in the bottom of the tank drain the fuel out that's in there my dumb butt actually filled up a couple of days ago so we've got quite a bit to get draining out so we're going to go ahead and start in on that one now so now the big game of this one is definitely going to be pre-fitment placement you know some of you guys they like having these big old filters hanging outside your frame rail out here and all i'm just i'm not a fan of it outside so actually in the instructions they do recommend that you mount it on the inside of the frame rail but you understand that some applications just don't have the room but i mean here on this truck quad cab long bed room for days so aiming you know we've got the back of our transfer case here and the cross member there front of the fuel tank right there got our fuel heater grid right there and we're going to be aiming for right about here get my lovely assistant brandon here to help me out you can see there is a dip in the pan right here right in that area that is our sweet spot we're going to be able to mount this up actually in the highest point on this bracket is going to allow us even enough clearance to be able to do that i don't want this thing hanging down below the frame rail anymore than it absolutely has to so i actually don't think i'm even going to have to drill any bolts through the frame rail we've got some mounting points above we get a light up here above right there and then we've got two mounting bolts right here on the bottom where we've got some bolts that we can go underneath of it with as well we're going to be able to pinch it to that one and then we've got a plate right here that's going to go on the backside of it to be able to pinch everything together nice and neat and then like i said that air dog fuel system is going to just uh kind of sit up there in that notch so we're going to get this thing kind of all mounted up here and then we'll worry about the plumbing now we've got our fittings that we're going to pre-place into the air dog before we get it up onto the bracket we've got two of the larger fittings you've got the in the out and the smallest of the fittings is going to be our return here on this side we can see our smallest of the fittings in the middle that one's going to be our return going up to the front and the bigger one here in the back is you know coming to our feed the adjustable pressure right here we're going to have all of our fittings already done ahead of time so you can see the fittings they do come with the nice o-rings already placed onto them aluminum machine fittings we're going to put a little bit more sealer on there just for thread sake and we're going to get those on so we can mount everything up into the bracket before we get the bracket onto the frame all right so now we've got the air dog all kind of nice easily mounted up there we don't have the big bolts all tightened down yet but boy she looks good all tucked up in there nice and neat and then we also have our sump hole drilled out and we ended up taking a knife around the inside edge around the tank make sure that that burr we don't have any burrs or anything cleaned off the outside ring around the tank where everything is going to be sealing to and then our deviant race parts we've got a gasket seal to go on to this area right here and then on the inside of the tank we've got this billet plate right here as you can see it's got nice little notches made right in here this is actually going to sit on the bottom side of the tank so any of the fuel that's right there can fall can flow through those notches so you're not going to have any deviation of fuel supply to the pump so that one is going to slide up into the tank and then we're going to get our hardware here comes with new bolts sealing washers and everything for you and like so we've already put on our hardware there and the little drain plug there as well so we'll get that put up in here so now that we've got our sump all set up right here sorry about the glare the sump set up i haven't tightened it all the way down when we do tighten it down it's going to be tightened down to 10 foot pounds that is where our pickups going to be coming from right there it is going to be coming up into the inlet right here on the pump and then here on the pump we've got two more fittings we need to worry about our return is going to be the smaller one right here which will loop back up around the frame rail and then you scoot back a little bit for you that will loop up around the frame rail and then this one right here is our to the engine side so where we actually have to tap in we will have to loop back around and then on top of our cooler right up in here we can see that line right there we're going to disconnect that one which normally from the left would come from the pickup standard on factory and then the right would be our large fuel line that goes up to the front filter assembly so we're going to take that one off there and that's where we'll tie that in so now we've got all of our piping run the kit itself does come with all of the different clamps in or the different ends i should say to the barb fittings it does not come with clamps it's because these fit tighter than a monkey can ever push these on to these barb fittings so be prepared to use a bunch of lube and shove it on as tight as you can that is what she said so get i actually opted to put some clamps on to there as well just to have a little bit of extra safety but we got the pump all mounted up there tightened to it this one is going to our return line which is a little light back here right up here it puts the t-fitting and right on to the filler neck and then our sump line is going right here i'm going to reroute that a little bit better here in a little bit after i put my lower tank cover back on but we're going right on to the inside and now all we've got to do is run our wiring so it shouldn't be too hard at all this harness that comes in the kit looks pretty nice so then here up top it's actually going to be very easy yes this does look like a really bad fucked up mess but so pretty much what we have going on here for the actuation it comes with this nice little add a fuse and we're going to put it right here into the tbc ignition one just so it comes on with ignition ran out and then you've got a positive lead and a ground lead as well tied on to here so you're going to add those to the positive negative of the battery now this kit comes with a couple of extra leads that unless you've got the outfit portion to this kit you are not going to be using down below which i did not show there is going to be an extra lead for a pressure switch and then here up top there is an extra set of leads right here that's going to be for an actuation light inside the dash for just in case you run low on pressure it's going to be for a warning indicator on the inside of the cab if you wanted to run that one so like i said all in all very easy to hook up guys and then your relay is going to be right there that you're just going to tag on to the back of the firewall the hardest part you're going to have is making this look pretty but you know how we do it just like this just like that guys that's how we do our wiring harness looks all nice and nifty tucked up wired up out of the way we've got our wire looms all bundled up back here in this nice little empty corner for later on if we decide to put the lamp indicator for the low pressure fuel so now we'll go under and we'll plug it in down at the fuel pump and they also tell us that we need to prime the fuel system by filling the water separator first with diesel fuel i want to fill that and the fuel filter as well so we get this thing primed and we'll still prime it and bleed it up here at the standard filter as well hint hint later on we're going to be getting rid of that junk filter anyway so we'll just have to prime it for now even though i was there where you can see it's like 915 at night but you know what long hours put in at the shop make great results let's get this thing started we've got everything installed and now we're gonna get ready to take this thing for another run up the interstate and just to see what the difference was and how it runs now that it's actually got all the fuel pressure that it's wanting when it wants it before as you could see in the scan tool we were wanting max fuel pressure but that fuel valve since we were maxing out at its optimum you know top-out point it would just shut the fuel off so now we're going to be able to go at full throttle here we're going to start at like 50 right now right when we need it that's a lot of fun guys it's actually gonna give you all that boost all that power right now and then also for the lift pump we're going to show you guys exactly why i decided to go with air dog and show you how quiet it actually is you hear that because i barely can me leaning against the steps is about louder than that thing is that's nuts i remember earlier on these fast pumps they were so freaking loud this thing being this quiet is is awesome this is exactly what i wanted putting out up to 165 gallons per hour out of it going up to the front it was actually really easy to install as you guys saw i would definitely recommend to get one of those like i said they are a little bit on the pricey side i will put the link down in the description to that there was right at like 675 700 bucks right around there but it comes with an awesome warranty and i couldn't be happier with how this project turned out here little riser boy in the background well that's about all we've got for you guys today i appreciate you guys tuning in this build has taken a really awesome detour i guess i didn't plan on taking it this far but i think it's turned out absolutely fantastic the things i've learned with the duramax is you know gone beyond what i've normally thought about the diesel world you know i'm usually used to the common side of things so these duramax things are you know exciting for me to learn new things and to be able to help you guys along the way while i'm you know kind of learning all myself so the build is going to be moving on even further we got a new sponsor ryan's performance diesel service out of wisconsin is actually sponsoring a new 68 millimeter turbo for the truck so we're going to take this thing to yet another level of build so hopefully here in the next two weeks or so we'll be seeing that one and we're going to be doing a couple of other big things with it as well thinking maybe an injector build with it you know i've still got great numbers on my injector balance rates but hopefully something along those lines and of course we got to stud this thing so we're going to be pulling the cab showing you guys how to do that this thing is we're just getting started on it we've got lots more to do with this thing so make sure you guys stay tuned for that one make sure you guys check me out over on instagram as well we put lots of pictures of the truck here in there so make sure you keep on with that one and that's about all we got for you guys i appreciate it thanks and as always guys you stay awesome