 Okay, so I decided to do a leak-down test. Right now all the valves are closed because I took the timing belt off. So the springs, the valve springs will close the valves because there's no tension on them. And put one end of this leak-down test tool into the spark plug. Where the spark plug goes and give it 100 psi. Okay, so we are at 20% loss and the air is coming out here, which means it's going through the piston rings. There's actually a bit of air coming through here too very little. Mostly it's right through there. You should probably write this down. So this is cylinder number two. So 20% loss. Maybe 17. Again coming through the piston rings. This is number one. So check this out. This one is actually coming from the exhaust port which means the exhaust valve is bad. Hear that? And I hear it here as well too. So this is cylinder number number one. So 11% loss, which had best compression results. And again for some reason it's coming through the oil pan. Nothing on the exhaust. Now you saw me take this pin out. Let me show you what's going on. This pin holds the rod and the piston together. Okay, now you can see see the rod here kind of lying down. It just fell down because I took the pin out. So this side is the only one without a cap like this. Okay. There's a clip. On each one that goes into these grooves right in here. There is another one on the other side of the pin. Okay. To get to this one and the other two I gotta take this cap off. This is a 14. I got a 17 Allen and I got a 12. Don't know where my 14 went. Yeah, but as far as I can see the cylinder walls look all right. There's a little groove here and that's actually the upper side of the engine. This is the lower here, so it's upside down. There's nothing on top, which is weird. It's usually on the bottom. I don't know if this is something that honing will take care of. This one's perfect. Look at all this. Holy Shise. Valve covers, head gasket, timing covers, cam sprockets, exhaust and intake, crankshaft sprocket, all the timing pulleys, cylinder heads, camshaft cups I think. These are forgot what they're called. There's actually some grooves, very tiny ones in here. I don't know if I wanted to buy these new. These are perfect. Both sides. Oil pump, water pump, looks pretty good, no play. This guy is staying. Oil pan, gotta clean it up. I'm gonna kind of refresh it, maybe repaint it on the outside, get rid of the rust. More timing covers, timing belt, all kinds of fuel rail right there. These guys are called tubular TGVs, tubular something, I don't know. Engine mounts, harness, you're a coolant pipe, oil neck. Oh, yeah. Yeah, this I'm gonna keep. Oil cooler, harmonic balancer, tensioner, all the timing components are gonna be new including the timing belt, PCV valve, turbo, flywheel, clutch, the cam lobes look pretty good. Can't complain, they're actually perfect. It's important to keep these in the same spots, these cups or whatever they might be called because see the circles on them? They actually spin, as the cam shift goes around, this thing actually spins on the cam lobe. That's why you get these circles, so that's why they're kind of merry to each other. Each cup belongs to each cam lobe. Always keep all the gaskets, don't throw them out. If you're doing a big job like this, keep the gaskets, keep the seals. I'm gonna, once I, I'm gonna clean all this up, or actually I might clean it up as I go, put it together. This way I don't mix this stuff up. Then I'm gonna remove the gaskets, lay them out and replace them as I go. So I don't miss any little o-rings here and there. There's more. There is more. Here I just gotta clean this up. I'm gonna remove this AC line. Goes here. I'm gonna remove the condenser. All right, so we got the tool, 14 mil allen socket. Okay guys, the block is finally apart. Let's see what we got. So this is the passenger side. Let's look at the cylinder walls. What is this stuff? Still see the honing marks. I don't know if you can see this, but this looks pretty good. Feel scratches down here, but it doesn't grab my fingernail, so that's not even a concern. Same, same thing. This one's okay. This was number one. Let's go to number three. Same story. So this is number four. You can see marks. On here and I can feel them with my finger. I don't know if Hony will take care of this or I'm gonna have to get oversized pistons. The guys at a machine shop will tell me, will know better. Okay, let's look at the crank. The crank looks pretty good. It may just need some polishing or nothing at all, actually. We'll see. If this was like a daily car, daily application, then I wouldn't worry about the crank. This is just fine. But since this is gonna see, you know, abuse, look at this. There's actually rust. There's actually quite a bit of rust on the balancers. There you go. Let's flip this around. More rust here. Yeah, this looks, the crank looks pretty good. The rust I can just leave it or lightly sand it down with like 2000 or 1500 sandpaper. I'm not even worried about it. Just a little bit of extra work. This is actually, look at this. This is the worst right here. This is what happens when the car sits and doesn't get driven. Let's look at the main bearings. Just your regular wear. Nothing serious. This one's got some marks. I bet you this is all from like these dots here. That's all from sitting. Driver's side, same story. Yep, the mains are getting replaced. Check out the rods. This one is starting to show the, I think it's copper. That copper like color, brownish color. Look at number four. You even see more, more of that brownish color here. Look at this number two cap. The bearing on the cap side. I think it's the, it's called the cap and then the bearing on the rod. Let's look at the pistons. Yeah, the pistons. Okay, let's start with number one. Number one was had a compression of 100, 100 psi. This is the secondary ring. This was, this was the compression. Let's see. The secondary is bigger, thicker. And the last, not least, is the oil ring. Where the hell, there you go. Where is the gap? So we're looking for cracks because that's what I think is the problem here. I see no cracks. Okay, number one is okay. Gets a pass. Number two. Number two was 90 or 95. It was one of the lower ones. As far as compression goes, ring seems okay. I forget the oil ring. Number two seems okay. Okay, number three. Number three was the best of the bunch at 120 compression. Get out. Number three, pass. And number four, the worst I think of the happy bunch. I already see the problem. I'll show you in a second. Oh, look at this. Would you look at this? Check this out. What do you say to this? Subru? Yeah, what do you say to this? And that was the, this is the scuff, scuffing on this cylinder wall. And this was, this was actually on the upper side of the wall, the top side. So it was going like this. Lucky number four. I don't even know what to say. I mean, just what? Went cheap on material. And how long before the others follow? Should take a picture and send it to Subru. But I'm not the only one. This is a common problem. It's a shitty problem. But, or I should say it's an expensive problem. But it is a common problem. Yeah. So I kind of knew, I mean, I was, I was, this was my guess that that was the issue, the main problem. And I guessed right. This was based on, you know, the lack of compression and that it is a known issue with these 2.5 boxer engines. I think starting from, I don't know about the O5s. Definitely the O6, as you can see. I've already seen it on 07s and 08s. So at this point, I'm about to call my guy at a machine shop. I know they do good work. Once we might take this trip together, we'll see. So I'm going to tell them what's going on. Give them all the stuff, the black, the crank, the heads. And one of the heads, we had a Licky exhaust valve. That's it for this one, guys. No idea what's next. If you're new to the channel, consider subscribing. If you like the video, hit like. Don't be lazy. And I'll see you all soon.