 Day two of the Butterick 6386 Lisette Windbreaker Sew Along. In yesterday's video, I talked you through finding your size, making pattern alterations, cutting the pattern pieces, and cutting your fabric, so if you missed that, be sure to click this link up here and that will take you to yesterday's video. I will also have links to all of the videos in the series as they are posted in the description box if you want to check that out. Today, we are going to be sewing steps one through ten of our jacket. Now, I am not going to stand here and tell you that this is the world's simplest pattern because, quite frankly, it's not. There's a lot of curves. If you've ever sewn princess seams before, it's very similar to that. So, you know how that can be a little bit tricky, but don't worry because I want to be holding your hand through every single step and at the end of today's video, you will have completed the front of your jacket. You'll have the left side and the right side. So, it's a long video, so without further ado, let's get over to the cutting table and we can start sewing. Okay, who's ready to sew? A couple things. I'm going to put a little graphic up here. My machine and needle settings are as follows. I am using, for my fabric, that slub ripstop that I linked in the last video, I'm using a sharp or micro-text needle size 80 and I have that in my sewing machine and in my serger and then my serger settings are from left to right. So, from left needle to lower looper is 6, 6, 6, 5 and a quarter. I know that sounds like bad luck, but that's what it is. And I tested out some scrap fabric and that all worked out well, so that's what I'm going to stick with. I've also, can you see over here? I've got all my pattern pieces laid out where the pattern piece is on top and then I fold them this way so that the number is on the facing up and then I chronologically lay them out. So, two, three, four, five, six and eight. You don't have to be that organized if you don't want to. It just really helps me and when I'm ready to go on to the next pattern piece, I can easily just grab it and I know what I'm looking for. Okay, with all that said, we have got our very first step here and this is for all the views or at least for the views of the jacket. Stay stitch side, front, edge, front between square and double notches. We are going to be stay stitching. All the stay stitch is a regular size stitch on the seam line or just barely inside the seam line. Stitch through one layer or each layer of the fabric and that prevents fabric from stretching out over time. And also, while you sew and handle the fabric, and it usually happens around curves, so that makes sense that we are going to be doing it here, but they want us to stay stitch from this square all the way up to the double notches. That is our first sewing task. One more tip that I forgot to mention before I jumped right into the stay stitching is, how did I have these laid out? Two, when you have your fabric just after you've cut it out, you can even do that before you get them all arranged. But what I like to do, especially with fabrics that are the same front to back or seemingly the same, is I will mark the right sides with pins. So I know which side is the right side. Now, it's not going to mess me up in terms of the construction of the garment, but what will happen is if you use this side for the front, and then you use the other side for the sleeve, they could have slightly differing colors, and so it could look like two different fabrics. I like to just take every precaution and just make sure that no matter which side I've decided is my right side, that all of the pieces are that. So another neat little tip for you. Okay, so here's our stay stitching. I've also put my stay stitching in a contrast. I am going to keep this red thread here in the event that I need to like demonstrate for you guys where the stitching is, because as you can see, the burgundy one blends in so well. So this one, you can really see my stitching really well. So from the double notch all the way down to the square. Okay, turn in the page. We have step two, and this is to attach our pocket. We went over this a little bit in the cutting video, just because things got a little bit confusing. But we are going to find piece number two, which I can easily grab because, you know, I have it all laid out and all organized. And we're going to pin lower side front edge, matching notches, squares and circles, stitch from side edge to square trim seam allowances. And if you look at the little photo here or illustration here, you can see it's really there stitching between the small dot and the large dot. Why they didn't just say that I have no idea. So again, go ahead and mark your right sides with pens. You could do this with a marking tool, but you never know if those things are going to come out all the way. So, so there's my right sides of this. Now I know where my right sides are of my front pieces, like so. And now I know right sides together puts this guy here and this guy here, like so. Okay, so I'm only going to work with one just to illustrate for you guys how this works. But we're matching up the raw edges along the side and along this curve here. And we are just going to pin all of this in place. In my experience, the very little experience I've had with this ripstop so far is that you need very sharp pins to pierce through this fabric. That's why I'm using a Microtex needle versus a universal needle, simply because it's so much sharper. But make sure that you are lining up all of your notches. So I've got one here. I'm going to make sure those are lined up and just continue to go around until this whole edge is pinned together. And again, we are going to be going from... It's upside down, but we're going to be going from this small dot here all the way around to the square. And the square should be in the seam allowance of the edge of the pocket. Okay, so stitch that down, and then they want you to trim it back. So you're going to trim it back to three... Where there's a 3 1⁄8 of an inch seam allowance left. Okay, let's do it. Okay, I went too far on accident. That's okay. I didn't back stitch, so I can just pull some of these up with this seam ripper. Because I went too far, it happens. Also, just trying to ease in the excess pocket fabric, because I think that that's what they want us to do. But I'm getting a little bit of puckering, so I'm going to rip that out and sew it again between the little notch that we have here and somewhere over here, just to get a better, flatter situation. All right, so the next step is to trim back the seam allowances. I do feel like serrated scissors are going to be really good for a project like this. If you don't have them, that's okay. Just use your regular sewing shears. But trim this back just till you get to that square again, and then I'm going to just cut through the pocket from the square and beyond, and then this guy can just go away like so. So on one side, it looks like this, and on the other side, there's like a little notch now. Next, we're going to understitch the pocket, which is simply stitching the seam allowances, which are these guys here, to the pocket. So you're going to put it in your machine where the seam allowances are facing the pocket, and you're going to put it in your machine like this and set your needle so that it's barely, barely just over this little seam line here. So it's going to be very close, like eighth of an inch, sixteenth of an inch toward the pocket side of the seam. Okay, so at this point, you are going to want to press this pocket toward the inside. It should follow along your side seam like so, and then come up toward like this. And your seam is going to roll toward the inside because we did all of that lovely understitching. So go ahead, press this. You're going to use a light heat. This will melt. So use a very light heat. So just a light, light heat and don't spend too much time in one place. Just keep moving it around. And we are going to take piece number four, which is the yoke sleeve and front. And so this piece kind of wraps around the front and also becomes the sleeve all in one. It's magic. So you are going to reinforce this seam here. Basically, this is going to get a lot of tension because the way that we're going to sew it and when we wear it. So we want to reinforce this. It's like another version of stay stitching, really. But you're going to be coming from an inch or so away on this side and an inch or so away on this side. And you're just stitching along the seam allowance, pivoting at this dot and coming down here. Not all the way, but just like I said, a couple inches on either side of this mark. Okay, so now that we've got our stitches in, you can see them here. We are going to clip into our fabric up until that little pivot that we made. So you're going to clip two, but not through that little line there. Okay, so now I've got this situation happening and that's going to help us attach the fabric to the upper front, which is going to be our next step. So we're going to grab piece number three. All right, so now we are going to take the, says pin upper front, which is piece three, two yoke and sleeve front, right sides together, matching notches and circles. Okay, so right sides together. Okay, this is going to, boy, you guys know how to pick them. Okay, so right sides together, which you can see, I've got my right side pin here and my right side pin here. So that's how I know which sides are the right sides. And basically we are going to be placing this little curved seam. Let me show you piece three. This seam here and this seam here are what eventually become this seam here and this seam here. So this is going to be a lot of fun. Don't be scared, you can do it. It's just fabric and we are humans. We are smarter and better than fabric. So we're going to have a little bit of an over, a little bit of a tag hanging off, that's fine. Just make sure you've got your notch totally matched up and then follow it around, place this dot right where this other dot is. And the easiest way to do that is to put a pin right through it, put a pin right through it. Okay, so I've got a pin going through both dots. Get your pin so that it's going straight through, like not like this and not like that, but that it's going straight through the fabrics, keeping the raw edges together and then put that pin in. Okay, so we're just going to worry about this right now. We're not going to worry about pivoting and doing this yet. So we've got all this extra fabric in here that we need to quote unquote ease in. And that's just a matter of stretching the fabric along this curve. It should stretch pretty easily because this is the bias of the fabric. So even though the nylon itself isn't stretchy, anything on a bias because it's woven is going to be stretchy. All right, you see that we've got that here. Now I'm going to go ahead and sew this down starting at the X marks the spot all the way to this raw edge, just so it's done and it's out of the way. And then when I go to attach this edge here to this edge, I won't have to worry about this anymore. So go ahead and stitch this one seam here. Yes, I sew over my pins. Don't at me. It's fine, I promise. It was cringing. It was cringing. Okay, you can see we got that in and all those little bumps are now within the seam allowance. Super cool, right? Okay, so now we're going to take this and we're just going to keep it here at the machine so that because we're just going to keep sewing, but you want to rotate this around and because we put that, we snipped into our fabric, that is going to spread apart. So just keep your seam allowances even on the raw edge and pin along this edge. Up here on piece three, there is a flattened edge. That flattened edge becomes flat with the, I guess this is the shoulder or the, you know, whatever part of piece four this is. Those two things lay flat against each other. Okay, and then so I'll pin up to the corner and then you can see we've got a little bit more easing to do because three again is bigger than four, but that's okay because you've already done it once so you can do it again. This is a matter of taking your time and kind of like, you know, feeling through the fabric. You can obviously use a lot more pins as well, but I've marked quarter ways and I know when I stretch it out, we're going to be A, okay. The other thing you want to make sure of is that you keep this nice and flat as you're sewing through. That sewing up to that X marks the spot. So I'm just using my fingers to pull everything away from the seam I'm sewing now so that whenever I come down here, it's nice and flat all the way through. Okay, so I'm going to back stitch two times and then back to the X again and then just rotate it around. Again, making sure everything's flat just to like get that corner really good. Like I said, it's going to get a lot of tension on it and because it's at an angle, it's just a little bit funky so I just want to make sure that we can get that and you can feel with your finger all the machine is not going to go unless you push the pedal. So you can feel with your finger all the way up here and then continue stitching for a couple of inches and then back again. This is tricky, but I feel like you guys can do it. I believe in you. I really do. I hope you know that by now. All right, if you survived that, we all need to give each other a round of applause. Two thumbs up, congratulations. Look how good that looks and it's going to look even better when we press it and trim back the seam allowances and all that good stuff. Okay, so we are now at stitch pivoting at small circle, press seam allowances toward yoke and sleeve front. Before we do that though, I'm going to run this through my serger and I'm going to do it in two parts. I'm going to go zip this way and then I'm going to go zip this way. Not going to try and do any funky business with this at the serger. I just need to finish these seam allowances because the nylon will start to unravel over time. And then once I do that, then we can press the seam allowances toward the yoke and sleeve front, which is piece number four, this longer one here. That's the yoke and this is the sleeve front. So we're topstitching the yoke and sleeve front from the front edge to the small circle, squaring stitching at small circle. And all squaring means is you're going to pivot and sew into the seam line. That's all that means. So let me demonstrate it this way. We have our, and this is exactly how the illustration is, right? This is this here. This is our little notch and that's our little notch. Here's our seam. So this is all pressed this way and this way. And we are going to topstitch coming down here and topstitching, unlike understitching, topstitching is a little bit more toward the inside of the garment. So instead of that 16th of an inch, we're going to do more of an eighth to a quarter of an inch. So you're going to sew on top of the fabric all the way down here like so. And then as you get to where that X was, you're just going to pivot and sew into the seam there. Don't go past it. Just into the seam there and you can take a couple backstitches and then you're going to be done topstitching. So let me show you that at the machine. So I'm lining up the edge of my presser foot with the seam line. And then I'm going to ping this over to, I don't know, a six. Let's just call it six. And then I can take one backstitch and then just keeping my presser foot in line with the edge of the seam line there until you're perpendicular to that little notched edge. Lift your presser foot, rotate her around, and then take a couple stitches into the seam line. One more. Okay. And there we go. So okay, here we are. I think she's quite beautiful. Okay. So the next step, we are moving on to step number seven, pin upper front slash yoke and sleeve front to front. Boy, that is a confusing sentence, right? Piece number one that we sewed with the pocket gets sewn to what we just made. I laid it out exactly like the illustration where we have piece number one's right side. This is opposite of the illustration because I'm working on the other side, but we have the right side with the big squared off edge, right? And we have our pocket tucked under like this, right? What can you see? Let's turn it this way. There we go. Okay. Then we take the right side of everything that we just sewed, then we're going to place them right sides together. So you have your top stitching and your seams all facing up. And this little curvy edge, this little, I don't know, little corner here, gets matched up to the top edge of your front piece like so. And I'm going to only pin it in three places right now to help you see where we're going with this, and then we'll continue talking about it after that. So we have our double notch matched up to our double notch we're getting a pin there. And then we are going to be matching our square, which you can barely see, but she's there right here with the square from our, where we attached the pocket. So that square gets lined up with this square and you're pulling the pocket seam allowance out of the way and only working with this little guy here. So the square on this guy is here. My square is here and they get lined up like so. I told you guys. Oh man. Granted, I did give you this as an option. So it's partially my fault, but we're going to figure this out and it's going to be awesome. Okay. So now you can see that we've got a lot of easing in to do, right? Like this is a lot bigger than this is. So they tell us clipping front where necessary. And that's another really great reason why we added that stay stitching early on is because it gives us a guide to know where our seam allowance is. So we can, between these two pins, between the double notch and the square, you just want to come in and just put little slits to, but not through that seam allowance stay stitching that you already made. Take great care in this. You don't want to go past your stitching, but you don't want to go too far in either because then the next step will just be all the more difficult. Okay. So now once we do that, look what happens. Now all of a sudden everything's starting to want to come together and be one. We just need them to be one with each other, right? Okay. So I'm actually going to pin from with the front piece facing up with all these little taggy things, because I don't want those to get stuck in the feed dogs of my sewing machine. So find your midway point, pin, and then find the midway point of that, pin, and this is very similar to princess seams. And what I like to tell people is to not worry about the seam allowances. Those are not meant to come together. It's meant to have the exact same seam line at your seam line nowhere else. So if it's still looking lumpy and bumpy in the seam allowance, that's okay. At the seam line where that stay stitching is, everything will be smooth. And your feed dogs are going to help feed that through too. Another good reason to have this bumpy side on your feed dogs, because it'll help, you know, with that process of flattening that out. So I am going to just transfer this to the other side like so. Yeah. And just keep pinning until you feel like, okay, I can do this at my machine. Okay. And once you've done that, now we need to do a similar situation to this edge. But as you can see here, the front piece is bigger than the other. And so we're easing in the opposite way. Very complicated pattern, I got to say. Which is a good thing, because in the end, it's going to look really good. But again, we are easing it in, making sure everything's lined up at the seam line, and not concerning ourselves with the seam allowances too, too much. All right, then we're going to head to our machine, and we are going to stitch from this upper edge here, all the way down until we get to our square, making sure that that pocket seam allowance is staying out of the way. All right, but we got to stitch all the way to the square as well. So I need to transfer my square to the other side. It's basically where that other stitching stopped. But either way, that's where we want to go. All right, wasn't that fun? Okay, so here's what we have. I think she's pretty cute. Okay, and then our pocket is going to get tucked under like so, and somehow magically the front and the pocket are going to become like something like this. Oh my gosh, look, you guys. Well, you can see your own, but that's what it's going to be. How cool. So freaking cool. I want to do this to a non, like I want to make like a blazer or something out of this. That's so, so fun. All right, so stitch from upper edge to square, keeping pocket free. Then stitch pocket edges together below square, keeping front free. So that is going to be a matter of this and this. Let me lay it in a way that you guys can understand what we've got going on. So we just sewed this right up to down to our square. Now we are going to be sewing the pocket bag to the front piece, starting at the square. So they have you doing it in separate places. Again, that's okay. Match your markings, all these little notches that I've got put in here. Well, I guess I just have the one and this one thankfully has no easing, no funny business. You're literally just stitching your five-eight inch seam allowance and that's it. No funny business at all. All that you have to really worry about is when you get up here to the square again, you want to make sure that you're keeping everything, you know, out of the way. Okay, and when you get close to your square, come up in here and make sure that everything is nice and flat and you don't have any of the front that you're going to catch underneath. So just go underneath all the fabrics and just flatten that out. Again, you can stick your finger up here as long as you're not pushing your pedal. Okay, and then continue stitching to the square. So now the next step is to baste your pocket closed. So okay, so when you come down here, this is piece number one right here and this is our pocket and our pocket bag. Our pocket is our hands going right here. So over here we have the side seams. So we have the side seam of piece number one and we have the side seams of our pockets. So we're just going to make sure that that lays nice and flat like so and then baste these two things together. The pocket is not going to extend all the way to the hemline. All right, so we've got that locked and loaded and then they want us to edge stitch along this fold of the pocket and that's to reinforce this pocket so you're able to put, you know, lots of stuff in there and then it's not going to rip apart. So we're just going to sew. I'm going to again line my presser foot up with the fold of that fabric and I'm going to ping my needle all the way over as far as it will go. And they only want us to come in, what did they say, an inch and five eighths? You can absolutely measure that at your machine, an inch and five eighths comes to about here. It does not need to be precise by any means. Just make sure your pocket and everything is nice and flat. All right and then this is what you end up with something along these lines. Isn't that pretty? All right and our last step here is to actually work on the hem, which is so surprising, but they want us to turn up a one inch hem on lower edge of front based close to the bottom fold, turn under a quarter inch on the raw edge and then baste hem in place close to upper edge and press. What a mess. We are going to do that differently. Okay folks, nobody got time for all that. What the heck? Okay so here's our hem. So what I'm going to do is take my ruler and my marking tool, actually have a better one. I like this one better for marking hems. Okay so what I'm going to do is I'm going to come along the bottom part of our hem here and I'm going to mark it half an inch all the way across. Okay we've got all those marks and now I'm going to put another mark two inches from the raw edge. So one and a half above the one we just made. Again I promise there's a method to the madness. Okay cool and now whenever I go over to my ironing board what I'm going to do is turn this up like so, meeting the raw edge to that first marking and then turn this whole thing up to the second marking and then I should be able to press all along there. You know what else I think would actually be super helpful for this is like wonder tape, wash away fusible tape. That might actually be a brilliant idea. I'm going to do that. So I'm just going to cut a little bit of this and place it just below that second marking. It doesn't have to be perfect. It doesn't even really have to be straight like so and then I'm going to peel this back and then do all my folding like this and then inch by inch go along with my iron to make sure that's nice and fused. Okay I'm severely losing light here like no joke. I just see if I can get us through this last step. Oh my goodness okay. So you can see that worked like a charm. I've got my hem like iron basted in place so I'm going to baste across here like they suggest. Okay and then that's it. So basically we're just stitching this down but go ahead into all of this a second time on the other side of your fabric. So you should have a mirrored image of this whenever you are done and before you come back for tomorrow's lesson. All right but she looks really good. I'm so excited. I love this little pocket detail so so so much. All right you guys if you made it to the end of this video have out a round of applause for everyone. Absolutely everyone. Good on you. I knew you could do it. So you should have a one side of your jacket now and then you'll need to repeat all the steps in this video on the other side so that when you come back for tomorrow's video we will be able to install the zipper which will be attaching the left and right side of your jacket together. If you have absolutely any questions at all about today's video please leave them in the comments section below. If you would like to send a photo or a video to accompany your question do that over on Instagram. You can DM me there. I am at inside the hem but that's it for today guys. I believe in you and you should too. I'll see you back here tomorrow. We will install the zipper. Bye.