 Hello everybody and welcome to another hobby cheating video and yeah today we're starting outside because we're talking terrain and you know terrain is one of those things that I'll be honest I don't love it but sometimes these pieces can be so big and so detailed that they can really just take the life out of you and sap your will to paint them so today we're going to talk about those methods you can use to get your train painted fast and fun and have it look good on the table so I don't normally prime anything with a rattle can but the exception of course is terrain this is just good old fashion Rust-Oleum paint that I bought at the hardware store sprayed it with some black let it dry completely and I'm going back over it with like a kind of an ivoryish color that I found in the aisle again nothing special but you see how in this case I only spray the spray can from above you notice how I'm moving the can constantly over top of the thing let it dry completely bring it inside we had like you could still see snow on the ground but we had one almost sunny day here so took advantage of it now you'll notice you get some of this speckling that you have with a spray can on a normal model this can be let's be honest challenging to prime with a rattle can but in our case it's going to actually be an advantage because one of the things we're going to use to make the train look good is texture we're going to make sure that this thing has a nice texture to it so to that end we're going to actually start out with some pretty aggressive dry brushing okay and stippling are we gonna use a little baby brush no get rid of that little baby brush for now we're bringing in the big dog this is just a big old blush brush normally used for cheeks and stuff again it's a makeup brush I get some some sort of white on my on my brush wipe a lot of it off and then we just go nuts now if you just had a heart attack good we're doing the right thing I mean honestly please if you have a health emergency call emergency services as always but if this seems scary to you it should to a point notice how aggressive I'm being here we're just stippling I'm not dragging it across in a standard dry brushing fashion notice I'm stabbing the thing repeatedly right then I'm going to grab the individual sections you know as I stab toward the center of the plates okay this is where we start the lesson we're going to repeat throughout this thing this is going to look good because of visual confusion lots of overlapping textures and colors and things like that that match the random organic pattern of nature nature is random if you want your building to look like it does on the GW box art where it's all pristine perfect like somehow I got to this ruined state and not a bit of fleck of paint was chipped fine I have no issue with that to me I like something that looks like it's actually a building that stood out that sat outside so that end I did grab my smaller dry brush and just fill in some more stippling different size stippling now we're gonna start laying down some tones I got the airbrush out if you don't have the airbrush it's okay you can certainly use with a brush it would just take a lot longer terrain is the ultimate excuse for an airbrush so we're starting with some mission models rock brown rock brown I don't know it's this red brown color it's cool I find it really good for buildings and I'm just kind of shooting it down in like the lower sides you notice how the lower part of each sections the lower parts the columns the lower parts of the the overall squares or whatever rectangles whatever we want to think of as just creating some tonal variation there to give us something interesting to work off of now we're working with some cement gray which is a Vallejo model air color I love this color for especially for buildings I mean the fact that it has cement in its name kind of tells you what's going on but it's a wonderful green gray it's much more visually interesting than regular gray as a side note when you're doing buildings especially those made of stone avoid flat middle grays like the plague they are the fastest way to make your buildings look boring and awful instead pick things that have some kind of color to it like I used a red brown now I'm using a green gray right notice there's always a color name in there that's like a real hue here I'm just kind of shooting the top getting that I'm going to cover some of that previous stippling that's why we went so hard into the paint literally because I knew some of it was gonna get covered up as we apply these quick layers we're gonna lose some of that texture but will you but it'll still be there it'll just be minimized so now we're going in with Vallejo model air white gray and you notice here I'm focusing on like the highest parts of it the center of all the square panels right again notice how quick and random I'm being with this I've done my best to enter a sort of flow state right as I'm doing this I'm not really thinking deeply about where the color is going other than like generally towards the top of each section I'm not thinking too deeply about like making sure I'm being very precise the random patterns from me just working are going to end up being pretty valuable in this process okay alright so now we've got all of that applied we've set down our base tone we've got some texture we're feeling good now we need to wash the thing we're gonna use our old friend Agrax throw that away that's garbage way too expensive for covering buildings instead we're gonna get out some obtilung 502 shadow brown you can use a dark black for this you can use dark brown any dark oil paint will work it doesn't have to be this exact one and I made myself quite a thin oil wash and then we're just taking a nice flat brush and we're just gonna drag it on down and you can see look at that wonderful capillary action look at how instantaneously that fills everything right now what I ended up doing here was washing this bad boy twice okay the first time I put on this nice thin wash to really get in between the the panels but it was pretty weak so then once it was dry like touch dry I actually went in with a heavier wash and laid down a second oil wash over top of it and the reason for that was I wanted a little more staining a little more color variation to happen and you'll see what it looks like when we pull it off in the next step but this is really easy it's literally just running this brush around and getting in there if you don't want to do to just mix a slightly heavier oil wash the first time and you'll be fine but this kind of oil wash you can see how easy this is because I literally just slapped the brush around and because this isn't using water as a medium the capillary action is so much stronger and so it just flows into every space I'm just slapping it on there right just just heavy heavy doses and on the panels I'm gonna push it towards the sort of outside of the areas the flat panels that are facing up and then just smooth it out like I'll just wipe the edges of it and we'll get this real nice effect okay so there you go I have videos on oil washes if you want to know how to make one you can find that up in the corner so there it is after both oil washes you can see it's it's been darkened quite a bit right so now I have a little makeup sponge and I've wiped it I've gotten it into a little bit of white spirits that's because of how dry my oil wash was since I had a couple layers of it and then I've wiped wiped wiped that white spirits out so it's just the hint of white spirits in there and even then I'm only touching like very lightly into there and then you see how I can clean it up I can just literally wipe it away and what I reveal is such a wonderful looking building underneath right we get this instant coloration that just feels so organic to how buildings look because we get this great tonal variation in the building this is a pretty easy step it's just wiping stuff nothing we've done this far is hard right it's all random fast movements with the brush shooting things with the airbrush easy peasy okay so there it is after all the oil wash is dried and wiped away and I think honestly you could if you wanted stop right here buildings are often painted with you know as though they paint over everything so even that stuff hanging off the outside the building might be painted the same color so if you just wanted to stop here and call it a day I wouldn't fault you if you do click away now hey give it a like before you leave or subscribe if you haven't already but we are gonna take it a little farther because ultimately I think it looks good if we break up this pattern somehow so to do that we're gonna focus on the window frame since those would seem to be made of metal now look fam I'm sorry here okay I'd love to tell you there's some simple answer to this put to this piece or part that there's some way you can just do this one simple magic trick and all the metal will be painted no this is time-consuming this is by far the most time-consuming part of this entire process was painting these frames okay I'm using a big flat brush you'll notice that so I'm using this big long flat brush which makes it easier to work in between all the sides you'll notice I can just flatten it out and run that nice flat brush right along the side of the the frame and because it holds so much paint it allows me to do that easier and I can run it up and down the sides of the interiors of the thing but I can do that so that's Vallejo metal color steel by the way just in case you're curious and look at that look how different that looks with all that metal picked out the problem we've made for ourselves is now the metal looks pretty new and the building looks pretty old so we've got to fix that so it's time to weather up that metal but thankfully all the steps from here are just easy fun fast and stress-free I grabbed myself some Vallejo game effects dry rust and regular rust the orange color but any will work you can use any game lines browns and oranges or any technical paint or typhus corrosion or riser rust or anything it literally does not matter you just need a dark brown and an orange find those colors and I'm just going ham right just fine in the metal picking out areas I like again the key is don't do it regularly your brain is gonna want to make a pattern shut that off okay so I start by just stippling that brown everywhere then when it's still wet I grab the orange and I start let it pick out on the edges notice I'm trying to hit screws edges of pieces right things that would be more exposed the more surface area is directly exposed on sharp edges and things like that nuts bolts connection joints where water would gather that's where rust will gather so here you can see the effect of it all done notice how I focused on some of the machine pieces I have especially as I said focus on all those edges those nuts those bolts where things are out there we've went ahead and and given those the heavier application of orange if you go too far don't worry you can knock it back with this step because now we need to tint the rest of the a lot of the other metal with sort of the weathering and dirt effects that would happen as water gathered we actually go in the reverse order doing the strongest rust first and then we back down into the weaker weathering so this is skeleton horde contrast paint wonderful for this purpose but again any brown paint or serif and sepia or brown wash will do and again just slapping around which is like draw it away from where I did the heavier rust so it's effectively becoming a bridge between the heavy rust and the regular metal creating a natural transition out to that space that way that looks more brown more worn as you can see there's some light rust developing at this scale but it hasn't full on gone to rust yet last step we take some agrax earth shade will last up with this metal weathering and now we're just gonna again draw it back again we're just trying to connect what is regular shiny metal to our heavily corroded rust and we're doing that through these reverse steps so I'm hitting just the edges of wherever I happened to land my brush before do I need to hit every edge no can I put it in new places yes just go nuts it darkens down the metal and puts more areas where again it looks like dirt and detritus has gathered around the metal around the screws now I'm grabbing some Vallejo model air whole red it's a little thin and I'm just going to pick out a couple of other interesting things on the building it's nice to have little bits of color on your terrain so like there's a couple of tubes on this one you've got some lights on it or or whatever something to just kind of break up the white especially if it looks like it wouldn't actually be painted I thinned it down so I can just use the normal contrast that I've already created through all the previous layers one pass done now I've taken that white gray and I'm going back in I'm just very this is an optional step I like to do this I find that the preeminent cracks like this stone is always cracked and just kind of trace a little thin line underneath them do you have to do this step no absolutely not but it can be this tiny little touch that can really make the piece look cool I'm kind of focusing on just those sharpest edges it's not a full-on edge highlight because again that's not how nature works things don't happen like that but I'm focusing on those upper areas those very exposed areas the edges of the columns as you see here and the bottoms those little very big cracks that way it looks like there's some kind of variation but if you don't have the patience to do this tiny little step we just get a nice soft makeup dry brush I'm going to go into a slightly softer colors this is a little bit of ice yellow and now I'm just going to do some light dry brushing very light across the more exposed elements like the achilles the sides of the column and so on and so forth again creating more variance in the in the building itself more visual interest this is a great step because this really helps to pop it back up notice how when I dry brush the columns I'm focusing toward the top again because dirt and detritus and things like that would run down those columns and get caught in the lower areas leaving more of that dirt towards the lower areas of the column and less toward the top okay all right now another very fun step again getting out the skeleton horde and my fat thin brush we're just going to make some streaks it's streaky time one of my favorite parts about doing buildings is streaks because there's no right answer for where streaks go you just let your imagination run I just find some nice flat areas some places where it looks like water might run down the edge of the eagles beak a crack in the wall the metal where there's a screw running through above it those are natural places where water would gather and then you can just run a little streak down from it now I'm grabbing a thinner brush and I'm just tracing some other smaller thinner lines again so I've got some fatter areas that of streaking that are a little more thin and I've got some thinner ones that look like more recent streaks are more intense covering some of my old work here and there to again create the series of multiple times where rain has gathered built up leaked out and left rust or dirt or detritus there you just work your way around the piece making these streaks you can also use things like oil paints or inks for this I have lots of videos on doing streaking but on a building I keep it simple there's no reason to go too crazy so there you go you can see how with those streaks there how much more natural it looks all right so now we're going to do a fun trick I'm going to take my airbrush with some burnt some burnt umber because no one knows how to cook umber and I'm spraying the ground because I need to get the ground colored but notice I am not being very careful that's intentional I'm letting the spray go up onto the building just a little because the very bottom of the building should have the most ground left on it from dirt that's splashed up rain you know it's got that's all mud next to it so it's gotten water and it's splashed up on it and that captures that really well so you paint the ground and add a wonderful weathering effect at the same time final thing to add some pop color and visual interest we've got our old friend the pigment palette and I'm focusing on mainly the reds and browns as far as pigments go and near other pieces of metal or maybe on the metal itself in places wherever I want to add a little bit more of different tones I can do that here so somewhere on the stone just to show kind of the idea that maybe some of the rust has leaked out and dried up and left that if you ever apply too much as I just did there just get a nice wet brush and you just kind of wipe it down notice how I always pull the brush in that downward motion to create streaks hey guess what that's another way to do cool streaks the other thing you can do with the pigments is really sell these big flat square panels whenever you have these a lot of these train pieces have stuff like this and you really see what I do here up on these top panels take a little bit of a dark brown push it towards an edge right and then I just randomly start moving that brush around notice how hard and random I'm being with that brush and look how much more visually interesting those things get all of a sudden because of the tonal variation across those panels so there we go and that's it I think you've got a great looking piece of terrain easy for your table most of those methods are fast they're random they're fun they're stress relieving that's what I use terrain for good way to decompress and not really focus other than that stupid metal grating anyways this is going to look great on your table and it's fast which is what's nice if you liked this give it a like subscribe for additional hobby cheating in the future but as always I thank you for watching this one and we'll see you next time