 Hello everybody and welcome to another hobby cheating Q&A live. Well, here we are. It's February 2020 and It's time to once again do a little hobby cheating Q&A live What is this? Why this is the show where I spend about hello everybody and welcome to another hobby cheating Q&A You just heard me in stereo there the so we're gonna sit down for about the next hour and We're going to answer all of your hobby related questions. I apologize. I forgot to mute myself there So I can see your questions. I had it up But at any rate So there's a comment box over here on one of these sides. Maybe it's over. Let's see. I can look at myself It's on this shoulder today. Sorry. Haha. It's over there So hello everyone. I hope everybody's having a good morning Cat from in San Francisco. You're up early. I guess 9 a.m. Seems kind of early ish on a Saturday, I suppose It's a good day for sleeping in and We're gonna basically break down anything you want to ask Hobby wise all of your questions. Just drop them over in that comments box and we'll be here for about an hour ish It usually ends up going a little longer, but I make no promises Um I'm just finishing up myself. I was you can't see it in the background, but it's back there Yeah, it's all frame, but it's back there behind me my my ironclad for my Tempest eye army my tennis eye successor state the whirlwinds edge I was actually just working on the base before the show and now I did a little small puddle resin pour So that's where it's all at now. Just waiting on everything to dry And then we've got some more color and details and stuff like that to add But But we'll It while that's drying. I thought what a perfect time I organized it hit it exactly got that poor done like five minutes before I was scheduled to start this so Nailed it. All right, so Let's let's get into the questions Anthony saying what will Tom's excuse be for missing Nash con this year, you know, it's a good question Who knows but I'm sure he'll find one He should already be done with everything by then hopefully it depends on when he gets to Defend his dissertation. So but we'll see I Certainly hope he comes down this year. I know I'm certainly planning on it. I have That this is probably where I'll bring the whirlwinds edge army for the first time That'll probably be the first tournament I take to So, yeah, and you and I might need to talk a little Anthony about maybe some some additional items I might need for the board there hate to say it, but might have to come back in at your doorstep again All right Joe white any random thoughts on purposeful deliberate practice? Yeah, I mean I talked about it a lot yesterday in the interview with with Trent Denison with big Deno So I certainly would recommend you go watch that his article is really good I link it in that interview and I really really would recommend watching it My best advice is never miss a chance What I mean by that is is even if you're you know, Deno Was interesting because he pivoted completely away from armies and into display painting And so as a result he got to really really hone in on Doing deliberate practice on taking things to that high of a quality level and enter this rapid feedback cycle Where he was really pushing his skills by constantly doing these display competition level pieces For a lot of us. That's just not what we do. That is to say a lot of us are more army painters I know I certainly paint plenty of army still in addition to doing competition pieces because I still you know I play the game every week. And so I love I Love simply, you know painting armies. It's a fun thing to do and So my advice is never miss a chance if you're working on your army figs Pick something and work on that thing on that unit Don't don't ever blow by the chance to really push something and by the way you can do it unit to unit They don't all need to be the same like a lot of people have this fear that if I if I do something slightly different on one unit Suddenly the army falls apart. It's not cohesive. That's nonsense Nobody's going to notice those small details, but you're going to notice the skill increase You might find an easy way to crack it that you don't mind using it on the rest of the army And either way the practice is still going to be highly worth it never use less than what you could be doing For the purpose of fear you can do it because you're making a smart choice for time You can say well, I could paint this higher, but I don't have the time. I don't want to spend that on this That's fine. Just don't do it. Just don't not paint to something because of fear There's a distinct difference there, right in one. You know, you can do it. It's in your comfort zone and you're not doing it because You simply don't have the time because life is opportunity cost We only have so many minutes on this earth and we had best all get about to spending them wisely But the other one is not doing something when it's still in your your learning area as Jenna would say Because you're just afraid to to have some minor irrelevant difference that's that nobody's going to notice and it's not going to matter in any way Okay Martin, how do you how when do you ensure that the maroon on your chaos warriors is buttery smooth? I it's the last step I do. It's just glazing. I use the So my last step is always to use some alizarin crimson from Golden the heavy body acrylics and I turned that into a glaze because the the HVAs are really really pigment dense So you can make a very thin filter that will still richly impact the color And that's usually my final step. It's one of the reasons I've been I've been not wanting to do the cast nights because doing ten cast nights at this point. Honestly, I just I don't have it in me yet I just I don't feel like doing that many of those nights because they're very time-consuming It's a very time-consuming project and it's just not what I'm on about right now And the army doesn't need to be done anytime soon. It's not a tournament army I'm trying to make it look nice But honestly, it's just an army for me My whirlwinds edge army is my my tournament army the thing I want to be at a really high level So I had to sort of sit there and reorder my priorities So I'll I'll work on chaos intermittently as I as I you know want fun projects But yeah, it's just it's just final glazes and it's one of the last steps Like I always start very rough and then just work smooth. I mean, that's I think I Ultimately, I there's there's other ways to probably paint where you could do very very very careful Very very very careful layering and slowly build things up, but I've never I've never caught into that model My taste is always to do to make things look rough establish the full contrast and then smooth it out It's it's just a method that I think is much more fun You get to see a lot more progress a lot quicker and you have a better understanding of of the overall light scheme of your piece The little chibi girl I have up on the screen right now is a good example of that where you know That whole thing was done with where I was putting in really really high Strong colors and then smoothing it out with glazes Okay Greg Lewis, okay, so I'm looking at doing some castellan robots in turbo door colors I can't wrap my head around how to highlight and shade metallic colors, especially on panels like that any thoughts Yeah, I mean if you're the Colored metallics are very strange to work with the answer is you need to think about like a silver to black steel progression And that should be your base So when you're working colored metallics like your highlights are silver plus some color your lowlights are Black steel plus some other color or the same color or whatever. I say black steel it I just mean like some darker steel color you can mix in blue black You can do a ton of different things to still to still employ the same concepts and have interesting colors in the shadows So if you have silver tends to be rather cold in the highlights So you could do like warm shadows you could mix in a bit of a little bit of red into however else you were coloring your metallics and That can still be your your the way you go beyond that. It's there's no difference It's the same you would do the the general highlighting scheme and volumes the same as anything else volumes or volumes light is light Especially in colored metallics where we can treat it, you know sort of much the same as we would our standard matte paints as it were Hopefully that helps Joseph how do you go about removing all the bubbles from the resin pour well in this case It was just a tiny little puddle So I really don't have to worry about it too much because there's I mean it's like it's 12th of an inch thick or something If I'm doing a larger one, I use magic water For large resin pours Magic water doesn't has a really really good degassing on its own. So it just you don't really have to worry about it If I see bubbles forming I get used little Little What do you call these shish kebab sticks kebab sticks Right, you just buy these in big packs from the grocery store and they just just poke at them until they're gone You can also do the old tap trick where you just like if it's on a larger thing you can just slowly tap the side Until they're they're gone. Just kind of get them free, but yeah something like that if it's a real small space I don't worry about it too much like if it's on a base in general You don't have to worry about as long as you kind of pop them initially when you're putting that on there It should be fine Let's see W. Soren, I'm work. I lost the question scanning There we go W. Soren I'm working on Marathi and I have a poison ivy theme going for the small version How would you suggest I apply that theme to the large version? Same thing. I don't I don't know make her look like a bigger version of that Basically, so turn her skin green and I assume you're working in a lot of greens and reds because that's poison ivy is sort of a green and red character So you figure out the neutral color you're going to introduce but like if her maker if her Skin is like a light green and her clothes are like a dark green and then you're using red as your pop color Those the red could always be your wings and the darker green could be your clothes and she could be kind of monotone the scales could be You know could or you could make the clothes red and make her scales a dark green that would also be an option I'd have to think about how to attack it. I've never I've never I haven't looked at poison ivy super recently But something like that's probably what I would do and You know just basically scatter around the the greens and reds poison ivy from memory Actually, let's Google an image of poison ivy real quick here so I can think about what she's looked like in the In the comics because I assume you mean the comic when you're not trying to DC character not the plant It's funny Yeah, she's mostly like yep red hair. So yeah, give her the red hair Give her the sort of greenish tint skin maker scales a darker green But yeah, she's basically a green and red character and then just figure out what you want to introduce for your your sort of other tone in In the parts that you can't really cover Off of that base scheme. So like maybe some of the leather and stuff you could turn it to like a Maybe like a deep black. It's not a very natural color, but it would look really good against those two Something like that or or a deep purple black Yeah, that would be my thought Berserk doing weathering with with VMC Do you mean Vallejo metal color or model color is a little tricky? But I feel it's sometimes too reflective. So I often use a brown black to lay down a damaged layer and to try and mitigate that Yeah, it's very shiny metal It's if you're really weathering out the metal It's one of those few times where I don't you know where I say you can still wash it or put stuff over One of my favorite things to weather with now. I mean, this is all done with Vallejo Metal color and it's all weathered out and that's done with just a lot of different thin applications of colors An oil wash all over with some brown in it That you then wipe away will do a lot of work. That's kind of what I did here But there's still a shine to the parts that aren't weathered depends on how heavy you want your your weathering to be One thing that I quite like for it is Vallejo model color smoke This is just like a very very transparent interesting brown color. That's really good for weathering There's one called smoke and there's one called wood grain Both of them are very unusual colors In that they're very highly transparent and I like both of them for doing that kind of weathering on metal You can just kind of thin them down a little bit apply them over there as a sort of glaze color And it'll tint the metal in this really really nice tone wood grain being more red The smoke being more sort of brown or sepia ish All right Let's see Dave question. Why do you use AK interactive? Matt varnish instead of Vallejo matte varnish after a good shake and bake through the airbrush Vallejo varnish does the job for save We're hammer 40k troops because AK interactive its ultra matte varnish that I use is just better Like it's just a better varnish. It's never I've never had it fuzz ever I have had the regular Vallejo matte varnish was a few times fuzz a few times is rare But and the ultra matte varnish is just more matte So it depends on what your aim is like I still use Vallejo satin varnish quite frequently in the middle of projects I'll often in the middle of stuff when I want to really protect a layer in midstream and create a safe point I'll use satin varnish because it's much tougher. So I use Vallejo satin varnish there but the reason I use ultra matte varnish is because I want it to be completely matte and Completely and and Vallejo matte varnish just isn't completely matte. It's just it's not it still has a shine to it Ultra matte varnish is dead matte. It kills all shine. So it's just about what you're on It's just you know, what do you want about there's absolutely nothing wrong with Vallejo matte varnish I just I don't find much of a use for because I'm either using ultra matter I'm using the satin I kind of like those two ends But there's there's nothing wrong with the matte varnish if you want of a slight satin sheen To your stuff, which by the way can sometimes be quite useful. So when I said it was better earlier I meant for my purposes. Let me be very clear there to borrow a phrase from my weekly co-host If you want a slight satin sheen to your stuff, which can often be very useful especially on tabletop army models Then Matt varnish can be a great choice Sometimes when tabletop gaming models are completely mad it can actually work against them just depends on what you're on about Uh Mirror-free hello Vince. I know it's a little far away, but when do you think classes at Gen Con will be announced? They have I don't remember the date for the events to go purchase them. I think it's in May I don't here. I'll look and see I mean, I've already submitted all my classes. So I will be teaching at Gen Con again And it's you know, they've they've said the date of when they go. So let me look at the site here Uh event registration is May 17th. So assumingly they'll they'll have the The events up beforehand so you can see what they all are I believe this year I fixed it So it's the company it I should actually be searchable now on the site Because last year I didn't I don't have a company. I'm just me So there's like a company tag that you fill out on the form and I just left it blank last year because I thought I don't have a company. It's not required. I'm not a company But then that ended up working against me because then you couldn't search me because they didn't have a search for Like GM or whoever's running the event. They only had a search for the organization attached to the company attached So this time I just put my name in both spaces So hopefully I'll be easier to find this year and I assume that they'll have the event list up sometime before the 17th Where you can look at it in traditional form and figure out what you want to do so But I'm doing about the same thing again five different events over the course of weekend. That sounds right One Thursday to Friday to Saturday. I think is what I submitted. So should be good to go there I got the confirmation that they were all submitted. So Okay Let's see Jordy Havens question. I'm working on my first bust and there is a large wooden shield on it And it currently looks too pristine any trip tips on weathering wood when the design doesn't show anywhere on it Sure old wood is has a lot of gray in it So what you want to do is really establish those chips those scratches, you know, like texture is your friend here So hashes scratches and dots are your friend gray edges like introduce a lot more of a gray color Even a cold gray color can really work on the very high highlights That will make it feel old and weathered tiny little hashes and scratches in it that have turned gray That makes wood feel dead because it's sapping the life out of the color You can also have things like streaks coming down there Just like you would any other flat surface so you can have like a deep cut and you can just have some water streaking coming out It's wood so it doesn't oxidize in the same way But you can still get water that gathers and leaves behind staining and stuff like that So you can be very you can do very light touches with that kind of thing and that'll Generally get your You know make your make your shield feel older So it's just about adding in that texture so think like tiny little hashes think little dots Think edges that are pushed into the gray tone that kind of stuff and you'll you'll have it look a lot older Thank you mark. I appreciate that I've got a chibi up on deck to paint here very soon I'm excited. I got a whole bunch of chibis and I really there's a couple that are really really calling to me And I need to after so much like games workshop stuff in prep for Golden Demon. I need I need me some chibi action I need something fun and light-hearted and and that's why chibis are like the ultimate just fun expressive painting subject so Yeah, so sometimes soon here Anthony do you regret that your caricature is a lord of change instead of a keeper of secrets with a giant codpiece? No, I do not I love that little guy like I it it looks like me I hate to say it, but I mean look Eric captured the quintessence of what is me. I suppose there I guess I Don't think that I would I would translate as well into a keeper of secrets But ultimately that's what people voted for because the original one of the other options was Tom Was me as a keeper of secrets and Tom as a I don't remember what Tom was in the poll He was something. I don't remember what he was but yeah So so like I don't think it was a corn base thing because he doesn't like corn I think it was me as a keeper of secrets and him is maybe a dwarf or something like that But that wouldn't win the bowl. So the audience spoke Let's see Galen question vids, do you have that feeling of being completely fed up after painting 10 measures? But after an hour thinking about painting another 10 Uh Well, keep in mind I mean most any project for me is a week right like I paint in weak projects basically like I chunk out my work to be Stuff that's gonna be a week long unless I'm doing a competition piece then it can be any then it's the amount of time It takes to be done So I don't like certainly in the midst of a lot of troops like when I'm doing like when I did the 20 chaos warriors There was a point in the middle there where you want to die, you know But it's not like hour-to-hour It's just this is what it is and part of what I've worked on is is my endurance to just be able to keep Painting to push through the middle part of being a competition painter is you have to have an incredible amount of just Endurance to keep doing something you hate. That's true for being I suppose good at anything If you want to be like a great Runner or you know somebody in sports you you learn to like play through pain and and run through the days You don't want to run and you don't want to train and stuff like that. I think it's the same thing, right? Now that being said Usually when I'm done with a project like that I feel great because it's wonderful to finish something like 20 chaos warriors and be like yes Those are mine now forever, and I like how they came out. I'm happy. I'm not satisfied, but yay and And that's now that 400 points of an army that I now have for the rest of time But I certainly don't want to jump right back into doing another 20 dudes like that. I'll get back around to the nights, but I need I need pallet cleansers in between It's just often so much less stressful for me to paint big monsters and big ships and single characters and stuff like that that's why I always have you know, that's why I have so many of those types of things and Oftentimes I just don't have a lot of units. The only units. I've really had a tremendous amount of fun painting in the past Year-ish two couple years was has been daemonettes. I don't know what it is about daemonettes. I just I love their forms I think they're really actually good minis. They have very expressive faces, you know I burnt through 70 daemonettes and had a great time doing it. So Who knows I don't know but yeah, I mean I the urge to to paint is there After each project I go through a ritual. So when I finish a project The first thing I do is clean my space get rid of the paper on the wet pallets You know clean up space all the paints go from my I have a working Nail polish rack here on my desk with it is the paints. I'm currently working with Those all go back on the shelf in their places around me where they all go everything goes back in its spot Every brush gets cleaned You know water paint water gets dumped Desk it gets dusted and wiped down and then once my space is clean and reset Then the next project begins, right? So I find it to be a cathartic experience to go through that ritual It's something you know, you may want to think about it's one of the reasons that I I I work like I do It's just because it creates this series of habits and when you're in a series of habits It's much easier to keep to them So there you go Okay Emily happy Saturday any advice on how to remove molded details from a figure like the raised Molded details from a figure like the raised hammer on a shield doing some converting and I'm having a little trouble Just sanding can't get it even. Ah great question. Emily. Yes. So we'll talk about how I remove that kind of stuff Sure, so I use To start This So I use this Dremel tool. It doesn't have an end in it right now, but obviously this is where we begin You can go into these pretty cheap. This is just like some little handheld thing I think this cost me maybe 30 bucks off of Amazon or something I mean 30 40 bucks worthwhile investment I use it quite frequently I start with the aggressive sanding tool and just buzz it off on high then I go to the polishing tool and just you Know slowly work it down then I wet it a little and use some 800 grit sandpaper if you go to the automotive automotive store You can find much Higher grit sandpapers because they're there for cars that need like really really fine polishing So you can I have some 400 grit 800 grit and 1200 grit sandpaper Which 1200 grit almost doesn't feel like sandpaper, but you can just wet it down a little bit and then Finish it off with those in increasing Sort of count there and you'll you'll get it smooth You don't have to do all that like that would be what I do if I was doing something super careful If I'm just doing an army I buzz it down with a Dremel and sand it with 400 Maybe touch it with the 800 a little bit and if it's not completely even who cares Then my trick is I prime it and then I just put a big layer of gloss varnish over the top Let the gloss varnish seep into the any of those uneven recesses and then and then re sand it again And you'll generally even it out So that's hope that helps. What's your favorite color to paint? Teal any kind of teal turquoise blue-green color is absolutely my favorite color a hundred percent. I Just I love that color. I think it's very striking color Yeah, easy answer pink would be a close second pink and purple Emily also be done with my 24-hour or not so much army when I get home Monday and do some minor flying So thanks again. Awesome. I'm glad to hear that Emily. Congratulations W. Soren, how would you approach red hair using contrast as a base? Just exactly that I would pick the red that you want to use I mean, obviously there's a couple of different types of reds flesh terrors red and blood angels red and stuff like that Whichever one you think is suiting the red hair you're going for I would generally have a contrast I would do a nice light either value sketch or dry brush depending on how much of a hurry I was in with a very bony color like something and it's just bone and then I would Apply that contrast over the top And that should already immediately create a fair amount of distance in between the two Then I would go back in with probably a deeper contrast paint something like a purple mix it with some of whatever that red I was to do the shadows. I would lay down some more ivory Up at the highlights and then re and then use that contrast and thin glazes over it until it was all kind of snapped into into place Hope that helps Eric Huyvins got a question for competition painting. Could you do something new or paint something? You've done a million times before and feel comfortable doing a question You oh Okay, so I think I understand your question Eric Are you saying if I was painting for competition? Would I paint something new or would I paint something? I've done a million times before and feel comfortable doing Generally neither So the answer is you shouldn't be super rote about it like unless you're You know unless you're somebody like Banshee or or Ben Comance or something like that to whom most anything is is probably in their comfort zone like their comfort zone is expansive Um But I'll generally just do all work if I know so this is the thing that that Deno mentioned doing yesterday in the interview that I Actually do as well if I know I want to try something on an upcoming competition piece Whatever it happens to be I want to do some kind of reflective light I'll do it on something else first just for fun like I'll do it on an army piece or something like that And then once I kind of understand where I'm going with it. So it's not my very first time doing it It's my second time doing it Then I'll do the competition piece and just refine it, right? When I think about competition pieces, I mean you want to be pushing yourself you need to stand out right Competition doing well in competition pieces depending on the kind of competition you're talking about is not a matter of painting Well being technically proficient In most competitions is just the baseline That's just what you have to do to like be succeeding but that doesn't do anything there's going to be 30 people in that cabinet who paint well and are highly technically proficient that doesn't that doesn't win you anything You have to like say something do something, you know impress people stand out in some way So my answer would be I would try something for the first time, but I would generally You know still try to push myself certainly and think about what what's the unique thing that I'm trying to say with this piece right Yeah There you go. Hopefully that helps. I think I answered your question Casey hey vents. I base my models in gray sea or spray, but my contrast seems to retract on the model Base my my contrast seems to retract on the model any clue why Could be the humidity in the area or anything like that I mean, I've never really when you say it seems to retract I assume you mean more than it's supposed to because I mean contrast is supposed to sort of retract into the recesses That's the idea of the thing that it becomes thinner I don't know the chemical mixture of it They obviously keep that quite a secret But my impression of it is that it has a decent amount of some kind of flow-improver suspension in it If I had to guess probably some flow-improver and some retarder so that way it doesn't dry quickly and retracts But I mean it could be like the humidity in your area or something like that Hard to say Are you using any kind of medium? Are you just straight applying it? Are you being thick with it and then spreading it around? I would need to see it happen to really probably give a good breakdown Is that's like that's a text of 40 type of question and it's tough to see with it without you know watching it happen Another wrong with question. I just saying like I I could imagine 20 things that might be happening, but it'd be hard to tell Firebeard question Vince Have you written any books on miniature painting? If not, are there any books out there you would recommend? No, I have not I'm not I'm not that kind of book writer. I write gaming books like this this over here is is this thing That's behind me Right here is the last RPG book. I wrote a few years back The now are there yeah, Figopedia is a good one if you can find it. It's kind of hard to get a hold of often Color and light is a really good one Angel herald as both of his masterclass books are actually really good Especially if you're looking at integrating an airbrush into your work But honestly a lot of like if you're just looking for books look for a lot of like two dementia Sorry works on canvas art Things that explore how you know the master's painted in canvas art Will be some of the most helpful stuff you can do with miniature painting because that'll help you to understand color Color theory how light works all that kind of stuff in it in a deeper way than then a lot of miniature painting books But that being said those are probably the ones Gondi Havens, how do you seal metallic models? Well, the step one is I avoid painting metal at all costs like unless I can unless there's just no other choice And there's a gun to my head. I'll generally avoid painting metal models. There are a few there worth it Say evolved the Magnificent obviously. I mean he is magnificent and I would never paint his fine-cast version The old Skaven character models are all worth it. How do I seal them? So in a couple different ways I seal them repeatedly and multiple throughout I don't wait till the end As I mentioned earlier, I use varnish as a safe point throughout the the painting process So after I prime them I do a big coat of I do a nice coat of satin varnish over it That's to start then once I get my colors down I'll probably do a satin varnish and then a matte varnish over the top And then I'll do the metallics and I generally won't seal them because at that point There's enough that they're gonna be safe. Yeah, so that's basically my strategy Boris question, how would you go about doing a part a part burn out look? I don't know what you mean by that Boris. Can you rephrase that question for me? Like like what do you mean by part burnout? I'm not understanding what you're what you're saying there in what way give me some more info Alex any tips on how to paint frost bitten skin you mean actually frost bitten or somebody who's just really really cold Really really cold skin gets very pale and very red in both in equal measures. So the color and brown Drains out of the tones The it's true by the way across any kind of ethnicity Just the skin becomes a more pale version of itself And you get a big influx of pink because what the body is doing is your your body is is knowing that your skin is dying Because it's so cold and so it rushes Blood to your capillaries to like try to keep you warm, right? It's pumping blood through there to try to make sure that you don't get frost bite and don't die Now so so hence the pink especially in areas where blood is close to the surface nose cheeks become very pink forehead becomes very pink Other raised areas become very pale, right? Now as to Actually frost bitten I Hate to say this but just look up pictures of frost bite. I mean it's gonna be horrible That's a horrendous thing to look up, but if you're really interested in that kind of thing. That's what it is It's you know infusions of a lot of purple into the skin even black at points You know at the very tips you would start from areas that are gonna go frost bite easily toes fingertips You know things that are very very exposed and don't have the Proximity to the center of the body and your body heat, so yep something like that Okay Galen painting an ij weird Dom shaman with a brown red cloak green skin white skulls What colors can I use to paint the smoke that will not distract your eye from the whole miniature? So we've got red. We've got green. We've got white. I mean you could always use like in that color scheme There's plenty of things you could use the answer is it doesn't really matter because your smoke should be highly desaturated Smoke is smoke. It shouldn't look like a color You could use a deep neon green. You could infuse some yellow into it You could infuse some orange into it like fire all those things would be fine. They just need to be highly desaturated because it's not a matter of of That you know It's not a matter of like the color as much as a matter of the thing you're painting in general when you get down to your third color and You're sort of thinking about what's counterbalancing it in general third sort of colors in your in your in a triadic scheme Should be or a split complimentary either one's a three color combo Should be weaker smaller or desaturated like either intense and less occurring So just you know gems around a model would be an example of a less occurring but intense color or desaturated and weak so like the smoke is mostly gray and mostly not that color just a light infusion of that color So but any of those things would work Secassi I'm gonna guess that's how that said How do you go about balancing a color scheme? I often struggle by adding too many colors in an effort to have the model be interesting visually Well models don't need a lot of colors to be interesting visually. That's actually kind of the opposite of what you want Brightly colored things aren't necessarily visually interesting. They're just visually. They're just a lot of visual information but visual interest comes from you know balance and composition right The Like Sin City was a visually interesting and visually compelling Movie it was black white in one other color in any scene, right? It's the opposite of a lot of colors Suicide squad through colors all over the screen and it was generally riotous and ugly Okay, so The the key is to get those things just balanced out now. How do you balance it? That's really your question The answer is One you you can start from something like a simple color wheel if you don't have your hands on on color theory I know there are some miniature painters who really hate color wheels. I don't think there's anything wrong with them It's perfectly fine, especially if you don't have you know just sort of color theory internalized There is an online source That you can go to sessions college if you just do color wheel sessions college They have an online color wheel that you can just like pick colors and literally like then pick a scheme Quadratic split complementary triadic, whatever you want monochromatic You know sympathetic all that kind of thing and and just boom it'll show you the colors The other piece of advice I would give was what I just said when you get down to like your you want to avoid Especially when you're doing very strong complementary schemes like a split complementary where you have two colors very close And one across the color wheel in a tight triangle You want to avoid all of that being saturated in general De-saturating you know some of that color will go a long way. You don't want it to be that intense One of the reasons the paint jobs of the 90s or so Cacophonously visually Were because they were just using all saturated colors Just here's a bright red and a bright yellow and a bright blue and they're all super intense versions of that color And that's just it's just too much like the world doesn't look like that right It's just we it strikes us as being very unreal immediately So that that would be my answer Dash question advice for someone who has started with the GW method of base wash highlight highlight For a few months is looking to expand from that. I'm a bit overwhelmed with choice Sure. Yeah, go look at my best advice is start playing around with things like wet blending That's gonna be your your other real method of painting fast I have lots of videos on if you just like look back in the hobby cheating playlist on You know speed painting base coats and when not to thin your paints and all that kind of stuff You're gonna see lots of tactics and techniques for For not that and still achieving high contrast That would and that's actually where I would go wet blending is an invaluable technique that you want to have in your in Your or an invaluable method. I should say it's not a technique It's a method that you want to have in your your toolbox and that would absolutely be the next place I would tell you to expand to Alright Let's see Jim Sue. Hey Vince. I'm about to paint I'm about to paint my new awaken Wildwoods. What can I do to zenithal? Vertical creases in the bark with the airbrush so I can glaze quickly Yeah, I mean just do a standard so so let's talk about the nature of that tree. It's like this Just because you're zenithaling doesn't mean like I worry about that because people always get caught up in the fact that It's like black all over gray white as though. That's like all you can do Light doesn't only exist at noon Right just tilt your color slightly So do gray at a kind of even angle and do white at this side So pick one side of the trees and kind of shoot around it at that angle And then give them a good healthy dry brush of the of a bright white color Put over some you know a contrast paint or a intense wood or something like that and Jobs a good like just because we say zenithal is shorthand But what I what we're really meaning is grisee We just don't want to walk around and say grisee all the time this sort of French style of black white gray Painting of creating your monotone value sketch You don't have to have the white from above in fact I very rarely do my white directly from above that's sort of the most boring angle You almost always want to tilt it to like one or two o'clock Or or ten or eleven o'clock depending on how you want to think about if you want to be left You know sorry camera left or camera right? and And that's all you got to do so just that and a little bit of dry brush like if you go back and watch the video I did on Gosh it was way back in the early one like how to paint Sort of rich wood tones or sylvaneth tones. I don't remember exactly what's called It's in the 60s. I think sounds right. It's in the hobby cheating 60s go look for that one You'll see exactly the method. I'm talking about it's just like repeated dry brushing and washing and glazing and stuff And you can you can get incredible wood real fast Let's see Arcus I always assumed your caricatures were just based on armies you guys were into at the time No, we held a public vote and and that's the one that won So yeah, that's that's where my caricature came from and it was done by a stone munt gamer by Eric Who runs the one of the one of the? People behind the mortal realms in the mortal realm podcast Mark hyvins is the I want to see a neo a good beginner airbrush I'm starting to learn to airbrush today after being in the hobby for ten years so excited. Well, that's awesome That's great, and yeah, it's fine. I mean you don't need to eat It's probably even a little more expensive than you need honestly I most people I know who do a lot of airbrushing started on something like a master g22 kit you order off Amazon super cheap And it's fine. It's not a great airbrush, but it'll certainly teach you the basics of the ropes But if you're looking for something a little bit nicer. Yeah, I think the Iwata Neo is actually a really great starter airbrush. It's nice. It's simple. It'll it's it's a well-built airbrush It'll give you the it'll give you a you know a good learning experience with it. So yeah Okay Darren Brentwood Darren Latham mentioned in his difficulty in completing armies is because he always wanted to do his best question Can you overcome this restriction and still improve without forming bad habits? Yeah, sure You just have to be intentional about it like Darren did it himself with his silver skulls, right? Like he picked a simple scheme that he knew he could execute Well and cleanly and still have it look good Here's the reality for most people it's not a problem Most people would say like I'm not painting my best because I don't want to take the time like no offense But that's just you don't you haven't built up your endurance muscle enough to actually like Paint it. What's your best your best is still I'm this isn't trying to this is gonna sound horribly mean But I don't mean I don't mean this in a negative way, but most people's best is probably still in just like a high Tabletop range, right? That's that's not a value judgment That's just a statement of like if we took all the painters in the world who are painting armies and and averaged it out That would be a true statement so like You know my advice is always pick that one thing you want to work on always be working on one thing if you're deliberate practicing And by the way, there's nothing wrong with that There's nothing wrong with painting to a tabletop standard or being at that point in your hobby journey I'm just saying like hobby journey is probably if you graft everybody on a chart Most people would probably be on a bell curve. That's just the nature of the thing And there's nothing wrong with that. So like somebody like Darren who's just you know Beyond incredible artists somebody I look at all the time and think how He has to wheel it back right if he wants to finish a project because He knows he can't spend the 80% of the time that he would take on a miniature on the last 20% So it's a question of finish more than anything, right So my advice is like one don't Don't if you're wanting to paint just a tabletop and you want to be fast cool do that It's fine if you want to make something really nice Then do that but but again never don't paint something out of fear If you're doing it out of time because you want to get the army on a table because it's not really important to take it To that high-quality level. There's absolutely nothing shameful wrong or in any way incorrect about that period Right, so if you're painting less than you you're capable of Because look time is time. There's absolutely nothing wrong with that like a painted any painted model is better than a non-painted model full stop Okay So the The answer is like in those cases what you want to do is you want to still be yeah Sure work fast, but pick one thing to work on so you're always still integrating that deliberate practice Hopefully that helps Brent have you ever gone into an army with Battle standard quality and set up set it up for your best work later No, but that's just my own personal Taste I don't like returning to armies like that's just not how I think about projects It's this is that's a completely personal taste question I start and say this is what level this army is gonna go to period And then I paint that army to that level and I don't return and repaint and like add more to paint if I'm gonna If I'm gonna paint an army again The only time I've ever I've ever went back and completely redid something was when the New Zealand came out And that was years and years and years apart and then I just basically repainted them for for for all intents and purposes, right? So that wasn't just like popping out what was already there. That was like major surgery But there's nothing wrong with that I think that's actually a great strategy if you're the type of person who will return to your work So you have to know yourself. I know I'm not like when I did the ogres. I said this is the strategy I want to take to get these done in 24 hours and when they're done they're done But for me, it's either an army like that where I it's you know for a friend and I'm speed painting it I did the same thing with the the Empire army. I did in a week that that was done for a friend So it was It was done, you know, like this is the level I will be at it's gonna be quick and I'm happy now Could I return to those? Sure. I just know I won't I think it's actually a great strategy So if you're the type of person who will return and we'll will pop the contrast and add those extra details and clean stuff up If you're that type of person who can do that then go for it. I think it's a great strat Tim Cundris Hi Vince, what's a good way to add modulation to true metallic metal, especially gold surfaces? They don't look so flat and one-dimensional I Have a lot of videos on that go back and watch any of the hobby cheats on adding non-metallic metal pop to true metallic metal I cover gold a few times Throughout there. So like go look at those videos for an answer for a deep answer But the answer is you treat it just like you would NMM or or any other surface So in this case with gold I often use something like this is burnt umber from dollar Rowney This is my dark color on gold one of you can also use various Reds and red browns so something like red earth from them can be good You can use some intensity inks. You can use Vallejo game inks like their skin color wash or something like that all those things work and You shade them just like you would as if you were doing non-metallic You know you create those shades and then you integrate in silver for your highlight And if you go watch those videos, that's sort of exactly what I'm doing but that's basically you treat it like the rules of NMM, but you're doing it with TMM and If you go watch if you want to see a good one with kind of a gold-ish color I think it was actually more coppery, but the lessons would work there's a a non-metallic using non-metallic techniques in true metallic revisited video pretty recently like in the 160s or 170s where I do it in sort of a fast wet blending technique and I actually really like that technique so go check that out Okay Berserk any color recommendations for dark elf skin tone thinking about a blood bull team and I often hate Painting flesh as I'm a death player after all Uh when you say oh for for dark elf skin tone Okay, you mean like dark elves in the warhammer world where they're actually very pale not like Drow elves or something like that Uh, I mean, yeah, just lighter pale colors any Any light pale skin tone will work I mean if you really if you want to get very specific moon ray flesh Is a great color from fantasy and games scale 75 pale flesh Glacier blue uh as you know one of your highlight tones to take it into a nice cold blue white um Yeah, using like a pinky color for your down tone. So maybe like a harvester flesh from them Um, yeah, something like that all that kind of stuff Yeah I was looking I was just sorry I was just looking around at paint trying to think of anything else You could also use it's like a light flesh from Vallejo that would work. You could use a little beige red as your low tones There you go. Um HL 17 Vince. Did you ever just snip? Snip off a part after assembly just to get it painted easier like a badly designed model Uh Yeah, sure like I've changed things so like with this chaos knight here His shield arm Do I can still get it off? You know, like I cut some things here. So it went on easier because these easy to build guys are often kind of kind of wacky um So, yeah, I mean absolutely I've I've uh assembled things and then kind of recut them to be in a in a different Uh position or place go back on their arm There we go Uh or to remove a piece for a sub assembly sure Um as long as it's a nice clean cut you can generally get away with it But I would say most of the time I just try to not assemble it and then I have a video on you know Sort of how you fill gaps after sub assemblies Um, so I try to avoid that kind of a cut but yeah, sometimes it's it's all you can do Sometimes you got to like glue and then recut a different piece But I think what I'd probably do More often is I cut it before I assemble it and then I just glue on the part that I can glue and leave there And then I keep the sub assembly separate Um, okay Uh, Casey said oh Casey answering her earlier question. So straight contrast, but it pulls off the flat surfaces to the point It doesn't cover Uh, I don't know that's very strange. Maybe Which all right, we're gonna keep going Casey. What uh, what contrast paint are you using? Are you saying this is happening with all of your contrast paints or one in particular? Uh Voodoant, uh, Havens from Oz. What's your process for choosing highlight shadow colors the Impressionists warm highlights cool shadows the contrasting color and the highlight or shadow are just doing some cool versus warm and either It's all over the shop And when do I use each when I feel like it is kind of honestly the question depends on the army like my the Like what I want for the impression Um, the slaves the darkest army they have cold highlights and cold shadows Right, so they're all cold Um because I just like that impression better. I liked what it was doing The mid tone being that kind of magenta and and being sort of a naturally warm ruddy tone I liked actually pulling both of the extremes into cold and leaving the middle warm The right answer is generally the sort of um The generally sort of Your highlights and shadows should alternate in temperature Doesn't really matter which direction you go So you can use cool highlights and warm shadows or or warm highlights and cool shadows um Oftentimes if I'm if I'm talking about just like army painting I'll kind of cut the difference and use different kinds of purple either a warm purple or a cold purple And that's how I'll get there Um, and that's my general sort of shadow tone Like a dark cold or a dark warm Uh, it depends on the piece and just kind of what environment they're sitting in and what I feel Like at that moment. So I'd say I'm kind of all over the shop on it Uh, and when I use each is just what I think is going to look cool on that figure I'm not I'm not a scientific person when it comes to this stuff Uh, I am a very much like this is how I feel about the thing kind of person And so it's how I feel will look cool on that miniature Um using the contrasting Uh, the complementary color So, you know integrating green into red works better on some in miniature painting than others depends on what I'm on about I I will use that on occasion the most commonly I use like the integration of the Complementary is on reds and greens because it just works the best there Miniature paints and the nature of the pigments we use make those the easiest ones to do that with like Blue and orange don't work as much when you mix them together. They can be okay separately If you actually apply it that way That's that's just a warm highlight cool shadow skin tone. It's just orange and blue, right? Um, so yeah, that's kind of how I go about it. Uh, let's see Uh, manzac, uh, hey, what's up, buddy? Uh, I've been working on sub assemblies for my gin Which uses the cellist in prime swirls around the gin vortex any suggestions for planning ahead for painting the swirls um I mean if they're in sub assemblies one thing I'll often do is I Blue tack the thing together and then zenithal all that so I understand what's going on like paint wise and uh, and then I'll take them back apart and then I paint them there um now As to planning ahead I mean I just I plan the color scheme all at once and think about how it's going to work How the pieces are going to interact but doing that kind of value sketch first will usually help me establish the lighting And then I take it back apart So that's kind of my my answer for you there. I hope that I hope that helped and what is what you were asking All right, boris, uh, okay. Oh answering your earlier thing. Okay, like Uh a part burnout tank or scenery piece of some of the original paint work is there in places Um, sure. Yeah, I mean it's a lot of stippling Is the shortest answer to your question Um, some of its intentional painting where you're like painting away scratches If you want to paint something truly burnt like it got hit by a hot shell Then it's a lot of scarring I use like a little bit of black paint Around the burnt area and then I use black pigment Around that just stippled on with a big brush to show it burnout If I'm trying to show it scratched and stuff like that Then you just a lot of stippling of the paint and the rust of brown either over the top or you put the Paint over the brown and stipple and then you make some clear edges where it chipped and scratches in and stuff like that Hopefully that helps and that's what you were asking Uh valendar note anyone in here do not look up photos of frostbite unless you have a very strong stomach Yeah, exactly. It's terrible. Like that is horrific to look up. But I mean Real life is often the best reference unfortunately Uh Kevin Shelley, uh, hey vince any thoughts on painting a lightsaber with a glowing effect? um Yes, you want to create a uh, you want to create a I mean the glow is just standard osl glow just cast the light on other things. I have a video about that The formulation of the lightsaber itself um There was somebody I'm trying to remember who did it uh Who did a really great art or did a really great piece on How they did like a um How they did a really great Uh lightsaber effect on somebody But it's not really coming up. So I'm sorry. I I don't remember exactly who did it Might have been rusto, but I can't remember at any rate The answer is the color of it needs to be established as this sort of beam And then it should get brighter and there should be a a line of fairly bright down the middle of it With multiple points where it's sort of branching out into a wider interference pattern So the best way I can describe this is Think about a line of white All right, and then at certain points it kind of goes That's what you want through the center of the beam You want this thin line of near white and then in a couple points it like or in the center of the beam You can do is just one it kind of expands and gets wider. So it looks like there's this hot point in the center And that's kind of the best way I've seen to do it and then otherwise other than that It's just you know casting an osl glow around things Hopefully that helps If you go on to putty and paint in fact, let me see if I can do that hold on Do do do putty and paint I bet if I go here and just search in jedi. I'll get a really good example. I mean In general Putty and paint is a really great resource. So Oh, let's see if I can find the one I'm looking for There's a lot of people who a lot of jedi Nope, not on here. All right. How about sith Hmm, maybe they tagged it like that. Ha ha. There it is. Okay. It was artem romanoff. Ha ha darth aura Perfect Okay, so go to putty and paint. I'll post this in the chat I'll actually grab this so you can see exactly what I'm talking about And then I'll scroll back up There you go because I can I can post a link go to that link And look at darth aura by artem romanoff and you'll see exactly what I'm talking about where the color is established And then he has these like breakouts of the lighter color There you go All right, geordie davis. Thanks to shield advice I recently bought some hematite bead agitators for my scale 75 paints They are four millimeter beads that seem to float. What do you use as agitators for heavy acrylic paint? I cut up old pewter miniatures And I drop those chunks into the paint That's what I do. That's that's the use for metal models So if you've got some old metal models that just don't have any value or you're never going to paint them I cut them up with big, you know Big big cutters not not my nice Clippers or nippers but like big, you know cutting shears for heavy gauge wire And and then I drop those pieces in there Bethany awesome glad that advice worked on the candy coats. That's great to hear Trung with the upcoming serif on update. Can you please recommend some tips for painting them? Yes, I'm going to do a couple serif on Videos when when they come out I've got that in the works They'll like I don't know when they're coming out but like around that time ish Uh, so it's not like I time my videos to releases. I'm not that I'm not that clever But I'll do some in there. I have a couple. I have some some Lizard men that uh that a buddy has so I'll I'll be doing Some of that but the shortest answer is is watch the So the unusual zenithal Highlighting video I have maybe like 175 or somewhere in there Where it's like understanding how to how to zenithal unusually shaped creatures or creatures with lighter bellies watch that Uh A lot of back and forth dry brushing and glazing Is a key because you want all those scales and stuff to be really popped out Uh, but I'll I'll do a video on them for sure Um Galane, okay, not not galean. Okay. Got it. Uh galane Hopefully I'm saying that right now. What's your oldest painted miniature and do you still have it? I don't know if I have like the first miniatures I've ever painted truly But I have some of the first their old garbage empire knights that were out of battle masters that I painted and they are straight Terrible uh thick black paint straight out of the 90s pots applied and then then then yellow bumblebee stripes put over the top of them And they are horrendous and yes, I still have them Uh, what are your thoughts on basing board game minis leave them blank simple bases the usual whole hog Uh Board game minis, I think simple is better Honestly, like if it if you can do a simple pattern that kind of looks like the board they're sitting on I think that's probably the best answer Bethany, I mean I I wouldn't put a huge amount of effort into the bases of board game minis just because they're board game minis But like if I can kind of do if they're let's say they're meant to walk around in like some stone If I can do like a quick little thing that makes it look like they're on that same stone Jobs are good in in my estimation Um guy bashee, uh, I'm just starting with the hobby and started to paint miniatures I have some Vallejo colors. Do you recommend to a beginner stick with the same brand or try to buy colors from mixed brands? Uh, I'd buy some colors from other brands, you know, I most miniature paints are miniature paints But they they suit different styles. There's not really some great qualitative difference between most miniature paints out there on the market But you know experiments see what you like if you see some colors You think look cool in another line. Yeah, give them a shot. There's nothing it can't hurt Right. Um, so go out there and pick up a few different paints from different lines and you know, see what you think Uh, it can only help expand and in the worst case. Hey, you've got some cool colors Um, current I've noticed that some contrast paints will do that if they have sat for a while Like the military and green will have a deposit on the bottom of the pot that takes a bit to shake up again Oh, that's interesting because they separate it and it's too much medium That's a really good call Keran. I hadn't even thought about that that reality Yes contrast paints. Thank you so much Keran. That's great contrast paints separate Like crazy because of the nature of that very careful suspension they're in So you have to shake the ever-living bejesers out of them So if you're not doing that first, um, that could certainly be what's happening because if there was too much If there's too little pigment and too much of that flow-improver mix that would cause exactly what you're talking about for shaking paints I use See if I can actually lift it up and get it on camera. I don't think so because I think it's I think my cable's caught Anyways, I use a little paint mixer But uh, there we go Like I use one of those Okay, you can buy these off of like, um Amazon and stuff They're just generic But I find that very useful. It just sits right here on my desk So there you go Uh Great call Keran. Uh, Travis, uh, hey vince, you're awesome and keep keep keeping on. Well, thank you, man Uh, blood angels, I want mine to be more grimdark and subdued than the standard bright red How would you go about this and weathering tips? Um I would just deepen the red to a more burnt red So instead of go like go into something like The proacryl burnt red literally Uh, if you kind of darken them down you could infuse a little a little more whole red So whole reds another. This is a really dark Um brown red color, you know, just infuse more of that into your work and that will deepen them down um And Beyond that as far as like battle damage and chipping goes I I have a video on it. Darren Latham has a great video on Chipping and weathering on blood on on not on blood angels fit on space marine specifically I would definitely recommend to go Check that out. Um, because you know his like he walks through it in such a concise sharp way I like it's exactly what I recommend. It's going to explain it better than I would but the key is just small again Hashes scratches and dots tiny chips things like that. You don't want to go overboard even on something That's very heavily grimdark. You don't want it to look like they just like there's no armor left Less is more in this case Uh, uh, manzac appreciate it due to the complexity of the project swirls has to be glued just seems like a huge Got it. Okay. So due to the complexity of the project the swirls have to had to be glued Yeah, I've run into that before. Um, I mean in that kind of case where you can't sub assembly it It's just you got to be more careful. You can still use your airbrush a lot if you want It's just you know, use some get yourself some silly putty and do some masking That can be a good way by the way to do swirls You can take silly putty You can like spray it all one color spray your whole swirl that one color Then take some silly putty kind of make little silly putty snakes and just wrap around it Think like a candy cane almost and then spray a different color And then take off the silly putty candy cane wrap it back on differently spray a different color And what you get is this like constantly overlapping Thing, uh, that looks like a cool little swirl of magical colors So, yeah, maybe try something like that Uh Kelly, uh, what's your favorite red leather recipe? well black leather from scale 75 and red leather from scale 75 and pro acryl ivory I like that That's a good red leather those three I mean, I know it seems dumb to answer the question with like a paint that's literally named the thing But scale 75 red leather is honestly a question. I honestly a paint. I really really enjoy other hot picks are Like our buckles brown is a good one that works really well in there Using a little bugman's glow as your highlight is a really nice pick in there Using red earth from dallar rowney fw is a glaze looks really nice in there. So yeah, there you go Uh, andy, um What's the best way to assemble metal miniatures? That's not throwing them in the garbage. No, I just I'm just joking. Um Yeah, sure if you have to assemble metal So two things one for for pieces that are of the appropriate size where you can pin them Right. I think that's pretty fair and obvious glue-wise Lock tight ultra gel control This is your go-to glue for metal paints. This is what I use all the time. This lets you place the thing This is a really really good glue for metal miniatures And then if you want to make sure they're really together You can take a tiny you can make yourself some green stuff if it's not pinned You can take stuff some green stuff and make a really teeny tiny little baby teeny, baby Be like tip of the white part of your fingernail Ball and you can push that in between the two joints and then you can kind of glue around that Put that all together You can also use an bonding agent. So get yourself some Kleenexes And take them apart like because most Kleenexes are like two or three ply or something You know, like there's multiple layers to it take it apart You want to really thin you can also just buy really really really crappy Kleenexes that are horrible scratchy thin things And you take a little tiny piece of that This is how we used to assemble metal back in the 90s when all we had was like basic super glue in the early 90s So you tear a little tiny piece of that that That Kleenex off You put glue on one side of the miniature The the joint you put glue glue on the other side You can do this with a gel control now Then you touch the paper towel you just like place it with a little thing little little bit little paper You know your little grabbers And you place that against the glue then you place the other one against there And the glue will bond to the bonding agent as much as it bonds to the other metal So there you go. That's that's an old-school trick Uh, okay Uh, very good Uh, gondi I asked a question early and didn't phrase right. How do you varnish? Oh metallic painted models? Ah, okay. Thank you gondi now. I understand your question Uh, so things that are metallic simple answer. I don't I don't varnish them. I do not varnish metal You don't need to especially not plastic storm cast If you're using something like vellejo metal color most metal paints are pretty tough aluminum based metal paints are tough use good metal paints like, um Like vellejo metal color is obviously your best if you're if you're not going to do that Then at least use something like scale 75. Both of those have good pigments. They're dense. They're tough. They're actually metal They're legitimately metal. They're aluminum They they will be fine. I don't varnish metal and don't transport your figures in foam Transport them in a magnet based rack. So they're not touching anything and you should be fine But I've I've never had issues with with metal stuff scratching off. It's a very tough paint So there you go. That's my answer. Do not varnish metal Uh, man's act, do you have a preference between vellejo metal color and vellejo liquid metals? Yeah metal color It's just easier like the liquid metals are fine. But my god, do they die fast? They're so hard to actually use because they just they evaporate they get chunky they separate I mean don't get me wrong. They they are slightly shinier But that alcohol based paint it is a real challenge to work with. It's a real challenge in the end I've I've come completely over to vellejo metal color because it's almost as shiny and um And it's just so much easier now. I I am going to play around with the um What is it ak interactive extreme metals? Which are enamel based that let it get highly reviewed that I'm interested to give a try But they're very very very very very different. So, um, you know more to report on that. I'm sure in the future Uh, let's see Fib Ghibli, um, have you thought about a series where you paint in other painter styles? I'd love to see you attempt a james waffle style. Well, james a huge influence on how I paint period. Um, Like his style is is is certainly part of the pigden style that is is my own Um, because I often do just like sketch out colors and the way he does and then and then refine Um, he's much more colorful. I think than I am. He's great at using at integrating all sorts of colors I don't know if I do it as a as a series, but it is an interesting challenge, especially people who have like really really distinct styles Um, people like kaha or flamon or james Uh, you know people whose styles are just like so Immediately recognizable Um, I don't know it'd be something to think about I do like challenging myself every so often and trying to paint more Like how that person paints um, yeah I'll think about it. Uh matt's uh, hey vince, I know it's come up before but do you have any standout recommendations for painting black marble in particular? color recommendations for the veining to be less boring than just white Yeah, I mean black marble, uh, you know grays You just don't use colored versions of grays and whites. That's the answer So instead of just using like a mid-tone gray and a mid-tone white use something like, you know, scale arctic blue That's right in front of me, right? So that's a gray blue Just integrate colors in there Get some green grays and some blue whites And that will be really interesting. And if you can't find a paint, it's that color, which is fine Just mix the two together and then go that direction Something like maggot white is a green white from reaper Uh, duck eggs green from vellejo model air Cement gray is a pretty green gray from vellejo model air just stuff like that Make them colored versions of the thing Instead of just the the gray and white and I think you'll have a more interesting marble in your hand. That would be my basic suggestion Uh, mickey are havens. I'm trying to airbrush dark gold metallic Okay, I've tried so many brands, but you you won't be surprised that the recipe I've set it on is mostly vellejo metal color I mean, yeah Do you think metallics are very personal? It seems they all are compromised between sheen and glitter I think vellejo metal color is the only non personal paint because it is simply the best acrylic metal paint around on the market right now Um, and it has a high sheen and and goes on well now You know when it comes to like making that look dark like you're trying to achieve a particular effect You don't just want like a normal gold. I just mix in inks. That's always my answer I just use those paints as a base and mix in inks instead of trying to get the sort of base tone You know admittedly I wish to high heaven that they had a bigger range of golds and coppers like they do for their steel Like I wish there was a you know a viking gold and an necrotic gold like sl 75 has equivalent In that range. I I don't know why they don't because those are really nice tones um But I mean that's just that the effect isn't as good with them though. They're okay Uh Who don't I know you've said personally you aren't much of a fan of the grimdark style But do you have some tips on other artists? Um, who do it quite deliberately and intentionally and not just messily. Uh, yeah, sure like um Uh, marco, I can't think of his last name fuse fuzian. I watch I sub to his channel. He's a great channel. I just I uh Let me pull him up here Uh marco free freezing I want to talk to the guy sometime. I really I really need to reach out to him. I love his attitude. I love the way he paints It's great. Um, but marco frizon, uh frizzoni njm Uh, not just mecca is the name of is his thing, but yeah marco Fri s-o-n-i. He has a lot of like grimdark-ish types of videos. I really like his style his videos are well produced He's a nice guy. Um seems like a really great painter with a really awesome attitude about painting Um, so yeah, like he's another one. I'd recommend Uh, let's see Travis, uh, thanks for the tips on red colors follow up. Should I bother under shading green to make them more unique idea from your video? What style bases do you like with red marines? I know like it takes two seconds to undercoat with green if you've gotten airbrush So I always like doing it. Um using a sort of verdaccio style Um, I think is always great with red like I said earlier red and green are the two where I actually really like how they interact together in our miniature paint world What style bases do you like with red marines? Oh man, whatever you like. I just Sky's the limit buddy. I like interesting bases. So whatever you like Uh Kelly again theoretically how long after applying an oil wash will mineral spirit cleanup touch-up still be viable A couple days you could you can touch up with mineral spirits Uh, I washed this thing with an oil wash last night at about 1 a.m I then wiped it down about I wiped it down probably about 130 or two Uh, this morning I got up at around 8 30 and just started painting it normally So that's how long I gave it to actually paint And it's fine. There you go. I'm not wiping off any paint Right, no issue zero issues So there you go That being said, I'm sure I could I could go in there with a really aggressive white spirits and still pull some of that back up today I'm sure I've I've done it a couple times Uh You know two days after or something and still got it off Uh, let's see Mikey are couldn't get the ak and almost to work. They came out matt interesting. Well, we'll see how it works Dave g you should interview james wappel. Um, I'm going to I've got that scheduled actually actually I think he's on the calendar for next month. So and I'm I'm very excited to have him on the on the interview show He's a just I mean, he's somebody who's absolutely inspiring to me Again, one of those people who just has like the most wonderful attitude A a just all around awesome human being an amazing artist. So yeah, I'm excited to talk to him more Uh Brandon I need to paint the ultimate bone daddy in the book says he's bone mixed with alabaster How would you go about that the color he has in the book looks like green shaded white I would mix in white grays. Uh, so cold highlights warm shadows That's the answer what I said earlier like I would pick some nice gray whites as the high color And I would use some nice warm Brown red-ish tones as my low lights Um Yeah, there you go Uh, okay, so as we're we're moving on we've we've gone way over an hour I didn't even realize time flies when you're having fun So I'm going to go into hurry up mode here for a few moments So if you've got a question I'm going to answer as many as I can as quick as I can here for another couple minutes And then we'll we'll call it a day Uh, let's see Uh berserk, uh, oh, that's right. Send them an email. Yeah, I should Vallejo people somebody get me in touch with a Vallejo person Give me the president. No, I don't know whatever Uh, Brandon Houston, uh, I made some slurry based on the hobby cheating video for it It seemed too thick. Is there a consistency you look for when you make it? Um, yes only slightly thicker than the glue itself So I I will have I like It's an easy solution though, uh, fortunately you just add more of the Thin glue to it and you can thin it back down So I actually like to mix it a little thick So it starts out kind of thick and then I just keep adding glue and thinning it down and testing it Because you can do that the problem is it's hard to add plastic and thicken it because it takes a while for it to melt But adding the glue and then stirring and stirring you can see that result in a couple minutes So I actually like to make it thick. So I think you're in a good mix it thick I think you're in a good place and then I just slowly introduce more and more glue to thin it out until I get It to where I want you want it to be like Slightly thicker than it is the normal glue is basically the answer Uh bo bo setty sure. Uh, hey vince. I've had difficulties glazing Vallejo Vallejo true metal Uh thinning it with water leaves the surface tension just too high. I had a bit more success with flow improver recommendations Vallejo true metal. Do you mean true metal Are you talking about Like true metals. Do you mean a k interactive true metals? Like this is true metal Uh, or do you mean? Um, like which this is this is, you know, not an acrylic based paint. Are you talking about Vallejo metal color? Confirm for me what you're actually talking about there and I'll answer the question Uh, any particular tips about doing tattoos or face paint? Uh, yes, I have a whole video on tattoos Go watch that, you know glazing over the skin at the end is the idea Um tattoos are fun and easy. They're a great thing. I also do them in the ogre video So you can go that the army in a we army sorry army in a day video Um, so you can check that out Uh, but war paint is one I want to do a good video on I'm just waiting to have like the right Video to do it. Um, but war paint is super easy and so much fun Uh, war paint is just pigment mixed with paint applied roughly in a pseudo dry brush That's all it really is Uh, so there you go Uh, travis any chance you'll ever do a class in new york city? Sure or or in that area Yeah, I mean there's a chance I'll do it anywhere So so let me say this if you want me to come teach in your area the key is I need a venue to do it in Booking the venue and getting all of that agreement is absolutely the The hardest part of of setting up to teach class So if you have a connection to a venue and a store and you know that they're keen to that You know, you can feel free to reach out That's usually the way to get me to a place is to have a venue sort of already locked in where people Where people will uh Uh, you know are already on board and I don't have to like chase down trying to figure out where the heck I'm You know we could go Um, but yeah, I'd love to come to new york and teach sure Uh Okay, andy recently started a miniature painting. How do you keep going with the project? I painted two miniatures thus far and I was so exhausted why I painted my second miniature 45 hours total Well, if you're doing 45 hours on like your second miniature, you're off to a good start Uh, that's a huge amount of endurance that most people don't develop for years The answer is uh, you need to work on the speed muscle Um, because if you're just starting Your chances are andy not knowing anything about you what you're trying to do is like really really achieve A very high level of quality and trying to get perfect and and you're you're basic like brush control and paint dilution And all those kind of things that make you understand just aren't quite there yet Right, so work on refund refining those fundaments and you'll find you get faster Set yourself a challenge do as much as you can do in two hours paint faster use a bigger brush You know those kinds of things Um, but don't make it so every don't set the bar Especially when you're starting out that every miniature has to be perfect because they're not They're not they're a long way from it. That's not an insult. That's just people don't paint There are zero perfect miniatures in the world By any any painter of any level So it's not achievable So don't set that as your goal and and you know do some speed tests yourself work on that kind of thing And uh, and then you'll get those those kind of fundaments down And you'll find you're able to achieve the same thing a lot faster But let me say this if you're already going for that long Um, I mean you have the endurance to do this man. That is incredibly impressive Uh, so, you know now it's just a matter of just building up the fundaments Uh Voodoo don't last question wanting to do 40k dark angels death wing often they seem To yellow or brown in their bone color tips of transitioning from bone white into a soft brown into dark grays in the shadows Be very light touch with the brown because otherwise it'll just make it look dirty. I hate that brown inclusion honestly Um, yes stay mostly in bone or something like a Vallejo model color light brown That's my best answer. Um, but Shetty Vallejo metal color. Yes. Just let me woke up. Yeah, no problem Yeah, sure flow aid is great. You can you that'll that'll work. Um, you honestly With them the key is if you're going to glaze over it, you need a good established version of the color And as much as glazing you want to think more in terms of feathering Where you're so I I like them because I often feather with them Which means like I put a dab of it here and then wipe if you've watched me paint Then I wipe the brush and then I just with a mostly clean brush. I drag the edge down That's the best way I found to do that kind of glazing as much as it is thinning them Is to feather them out. They feather like a dream. So that's my best advice Uh Brandon, have you ever I haven't tried an oil wash yet? Have you ever had a case where the varnish job wasn't just perfect in the spirits pulled up the paint? Brandon, I'll let you know a secret. I don't varnish before my oil washes Shh, don't tell No, I I have I ever pulled up paint maybe once or something It's happened But who cares you just let it dry and then fix it The answer is you don't when you're applying an oil wash if you're not applying an oil wash like this This is how you pull up paint This kind of intensity you apply an oil wash like this You touch There's no surface tension in the oil in the white spirits and in the linseed oil So you just touch and it flows out and then maybe so often you just kind of go like that A little light touch just kind of push it in there push it in Push it in push it in super light touch. You just got to touch just touch touch Just touch touch touch like you're you know And you won't pull paint You just let it dry Uh, let's see Awesome Andy, but no that's great man. You're doing a great job Uh, okay, and there you go Uh dvl how how do sergio calvo non-metallic metal? Oh, you'd have to ask him that is a his non-metallic is a is a really great process And he does uh effectively he does a layering and airbrush smoothing technique. So it's his kaffe bases thing It's a bit complicated to explain in a lightning round answer But he does have some video explanations out there on the world on how to do it He also has a patreon. I mean my advice we go out there and And check it out. Um, he keeps uh, he's He also teaches a lot if you get a chance to take one of his classes I I would highly recommend it. He's got a class coming up in april down in Cincinnati I think he's doing one up in my hometown after that because uh Because i'm gonna go help him out and kind of visit and stuff like that So i'll go go see him when he comes over. It's always good to catch up with sergio. He's a really nice guy All right, so there we go That brings us to the end folks. We went like 90 minutes, but hey, whatever. That's fine Who doesn't love a bonus 30 minutes, right? Uh, so I hope I answered some good questions today if you had more questions and they weren't answered or you're watching this later on Uh, drop those down in the comments Please give this a like if you're still watching now, please hit that little like button Um, youtube writes that very highly and if a bunch of you hit like in the right now What happens is it goes and other people get recommended to watch this and then discover the channel and then can come here and ask their questions And it lets me help out more folks, which I really really appreciate Um, so thank you, uh, very much everybody who watched so hit that button obviously subscribe if you're here already I assume you already are so thank you very much. These were great questions today Uh, I'll give you a quick final one good white airbrush primer. Great question. I use steinl res white I actually love this white. It's the only white primer. I've ever found that is of any value You still have to shake the living bejesus out of it. And yes, I do still thin it And I use my standard thinner flow improver mix to do it But steinl res white is actually a really good white primer. There you go. Bonus answer. So at any rate everybody, thank you very much I really appreciate it. Uh, as always we do this once a month I try to announce it on twitter follow me there if you want to see when these are up Uh, or or just hit that little bell icon, I guess, uh, and you'll know But thank you so much everybody. Great questions. Really appreciate it Uh, keep asking those questions keep painting and as always we'll see you next time