 Bison had been part of the North American landscape for several hundred thousand years. Scientists think the species originated in Asia and migrated into Alaska across a land bridge that appeared during the Ice Ages. Without bison, the plains Indians could not have survived in this harsh climate, where bone-chilling winds and deep snows give way to scorching sun and drought. Legends tell of bison coming from the Earth to provide for the Indians' needs, meat, hides for warm clothing, shelter and tough shields, bones for tools, and even dung for fuel on the treeless parts of the prairie. In the early 1800s, when Lewis and Clark crossed the continent, there were an estimated 30 to 60 million bison in North America. Vast herds could be seen stretching to the horizon. But the bison were already on the decline. The Spanish conquistadores had introduced horses to the continent in the 1500s, and the herds were now large enough to compete for the prairie grasses. More competition for fodder would come from cattle brought west by 19th century settlers. The cattle would also carry diseases that could affect the closely related bison. Direct impacts on bison came from commercial demand for bison robes and for leather. Fur traders, Native Americans, and hide hunters all pursued the animals. Railroads provided the means to ship hunters, guns, and ammunition west and bring hides and meat east. Demand did not slacken until the bison was almost completely gone. By 1889, the tens of millions of bison had been reduced to fewer than 100 wild animals, scattered in small herds. Some 900 more were kept in private herds for commercial, sentimental, and cultural reasons. The owners included Charles Goodnight of Texas, Buffalo Jones of Kansas, and Charles Allard and Michelle Pablo here in the Mission Valley. The Pablo Allard herd was one of the largest. When Pablo needed to sell his portion of the herd, the federal government declined to buy it, so 700 bison were sold to Canada. For William Hornaday, the superintendent of the National Zoological Park, the sale of the bison was a final motivating factor. He launched a crusade to save the bison. In 1905, his efforts led to the foundation of the American Bison Society. Its honorary president was Theodore Roosevelt, who only two years earlier had created the first National Wildlife Refuge at Pelican Island in Florida. Other refuges were soon established, including three reserves to save bison from extinction. Among them was the National Bison Range, created in 1908. It was the first land ever purchased by the federal government for wildlife protection. Too late to purchase any of the Pablo herd, the American Bison Society purchased 34 bison from Charles Conrad, who had bought part of the Allard herd. The 34 animals and a few from other private herds were donated to start the herd at the bison range. Today, some 350 to 500 bison roam the National Bison Range under the protection and management of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. The National Bison Range is part of the National Wildlife Refuge system, which forms the only network of land dedicated to the conservation of fish, wildlife, plants, and their habitats. Now there are over 544 national wildlife refuges, totaling more than 100 million acres. The system provides habitat for threatened and endangered species and stop over spots for millions of migratory birds. The 18,800 acres of this refuge are a patchwork of habitats, each of which provides food and shelter for a wide range of wildlife. Most important to the bison are the grasslands, which provide their food. The grasses are very durable to grazing, being built to grow from the base of the stem, rather than the tip. This allows the plants to continue growing after the tips have been eaten. The bison range contains one of the largest remaining pieces of native Palouse prairie. To protect this rare grassland, refuge staff manages the numbers and movements of the bison. As you visit the range, you will notice that it is cross-fenced into large tracks. These fences are designed so that other animals can go over or under them. This allows us to protect the grasslands by moving the bison herd on a rotational grazing system. In former days, the vast bison herds would simply move on through the open prairies when there wasn't enough grass. But that is no longer possible. Overgrazing of the refuge is also prevented by restricting the size of the bison herd. Each year in the early fall, the Old West comes alive again as experienced wranglers on horseback round up the herd. During the roundup, the bison are separated from the herd in groups of 15 to 20 and driven into a system of gates, shoots, and pens. There, each animal's age, gender, weight, and general health are noted. All calves are branded so that their age can be determined in the future. The number used is the last digit of the birth year. Also, a microchip is implanted behind the left ear to identify each animal for genetic and testing needs. Animals designated for sale are checked by a veterinarian who will issue a health certificate for transport. Surplus animals have been donated to herds on public lands, to the Intertribal Bison Cooperative, and directly to Native American tribes, or for research purposes. The rest are sold by sealed bid, and many go to private ranchers, who now own over a quarter of a million bison. The surplus animals are picked up by their new owners within a few days. It takes a lot of grass to feed a full-grown bison. The male bison is massive, weighing on average from 1,500 to 1,800 pounds. A real heavyweight can reach over 2,000 pounds. Females weigh about half as much as the males. The hump on the bison's back is composed of large muscles, which support its huge head, thick skull, and heavy horns. The power of these muscles is used in winter to move snow away from grass. The bison's fur forms a heavy insulating cape, which protects it from winter cold, and, for the males, summer combat. For mid-July through August, the males vie for dominance. Usually the strongest mature males who are 5 to 10 years old win the right to mate with the females. Despite their size, bison are fast and agile, capable of running up to 30 miles an hour. Their speed, agility, and strength make bison very dangerous animals. Bison signal their moods with their tails. Straight up means watch out. Respect their space by staying in your vehicle when they are nearby, and never approach one on foot. Males can be very touchy during the breeding season, and females are protective of their calves, as they should be. Cavs are born from mid-April through May. They weigh from 40 to 70 pounds at birth, and wear a bright, rust-colored coat for the first few months. This gradually sheds out to the dark brown coat of an adult. Numerous other species share the national bison range. Pronghorn rely on their keen vision and speed for survival, and prefer the open space of the grasslands. They eat leafy plants found among the grasses, so do not compete with the bison for food. Smaller mammals, such as coyotes, Colombian ground squirrels and badgers also live on the prairie. Designated a bird refuge in 1921, the national bison range is home to over 200 species of birds. The birds are a vital part of the grassland ecosystem. Grassland bird populations are declining rapidly as people change their habitat. Some, such as the western metal art, are holding their own. But many of the grassland sparrows are disappearing. The bison range provides a breeding ground for some of these, including the clay-colored and grasshopper sparrows. White tail and mule deer live in the bushy areas of the refuge along Mission Creek and in draws. These species are easy to confuse until the animal runs away. The white-tailed deer will raise its long brown tail and flash the white underside. Mule deer have a white rump and a small white tail with a black tip. Black bear can be found foraging in the berry bushes in these areas. They also frequent the mountain forests of Douglas fir and Ponderosa pine. At these higher elevations, there are also big horned sheep and elk. Elk are much larger than deer and have tan-colored rumps which contrast with their dark brown coats. The native name for elk is Wapiti which means light-colored rump. During the fall breeding season, the elk bulls round up groups of cows and bugle to their rivals. The national bison range was established for wildlife protection but it is also a place for people to enjoy their public lands. Red-sleep mountain drive is a 19-mile one-way gravel road which gains 2,000 feet in elevation. The drive takes about one and a half hours but it is worth going slowly to enjoy all the sights. Two walking trails lead off this route. The Bitterroot Trail is only a half-mile round trip. A one-mile round trip walk along the old road from the geology display takes you to the high point of the refuge. The nature trail near the day use area provides accessible trails and interpretive panels. Along the trail is a fishing bridge on Mission Creek. To ensure the protection of wildlife and their habitat and for your own safety and enjoyment, please obey the necessary rules and regulations. Stay in your vehicle on the scenic drives. Animals are used to vehicles so you may enjoy some close-up views. Walk only on the designated trails. Give wildlife plenty of room and do not approach them. Leave plants and flowers in place for the animals and other visitors to enjoy. Refuge staff can answer any questions you might have to provide you with a quality experience. In 2008, the National Bison Range will celebrate its 100th anniversary. Much has been achieved in the past century and we look forward to the challenges and successes that lie ahead. The National Bison Range is a living treasure belonging to all Americans. We hope you will enjoy your visit and share our pride in this remarkable place.