 All right, got us a make-up air unit here, a thermal tech. So what we've got going on here is it's not regulating temperature very well, and we need to find out what's going on. What I noticed was when I kicked it on, it squeals like a pig. So it sounds to me like the belts are loose. Okay, all of our filters are clean. Here's our regulators and solenoids, and a remainder of our controls. 60 horse motor. Can't give you an idea. The belts are loose as a goose, so this thing is very dependent on airflow. They've got discharge sensors, high limits, all that, shutting things down. And if the air and stuff is not correct, the burners won't stay running, and then she'll shut it down on you. That's your burner section there. Your lock-out tag-out, too. This thing will take your arm off and throw you off the side like it ain't nothing. All right, the uniform. Also need to check our static pressure across the blower housing. All right, down here on the end is the flame sensor, and it was dirty. Plus, if you look down in the very bottom there, you can see little bugs and stuff in there that are blocking some of the holes. That can cause you some issues with it not lighting. So sometimes you're going to run and drill a bit through these things, blow them out with nitrogen, but you're actually in here where the blowers are at and stuff, so you've got to actually climb inside here. Another big reason why you want to lock this puppy out so you don't get it crispy crittered or sucked into a blower. All right, we just turned it on, and so far we've got flame temperature control on the inside. This control has a temperature relation chart, and it's supposed to be on probes one and three here. You've got a calibration spot right there. Basically, I checked it, had to call the factory, get the chart. It appears that these might have been wired wrong because I couldn't calibrate it, but when I checked my calibration through here, because if you look at how that's wired, the center conductor here would be your common, your outside one would be your variance coming through. If you were to come through the outside of the potentiometer around the winding out to where they actually had it hooked up at, you're not going to get no variance because you aren't using the common in the center here. I think there's a mistake that was made, but I ended up changing it even though that's obviously not the way it shows. Check my resistance. I'm at 10k ohm at 60 degrees. Checked it back at the max control valve, and so I don't have any resistance in the wires causing any issues. So on the unhook, one and two, which is from the control on the inside, and check that I had 10k there, but if you go over to three and four, that is going to your discharge sensor, which is up here on top. I pulled that sensor out, made sure my tube was clean, checked my ambient temperatures, and it was off also. So they're going to send me a new one of those. So discharge sensors out of whack, the temperature adjustment on the inside was also out of whack. So all those things combined along with cleaning the burners out with nitrogen, making sure the filters are clean, belts being loose, and other than that, I mean that's pretty much it, but you know three, four things all combined together. Once we get those things here, we'll put them in, and then everything will be Jim Dandy. Okay, we're back again. I'm going to put a little doubt-corning electrical installation compound on my connection here for my sensor, and I'm going to do that also on my selector control here. Checked it against the chart and everything comes in accurately now this time. So we're just basically installing it back in here. I did pull that out, made sure that the ports are open, made sure everything was good there. We're going to put that compound on the connections here, and on the screws, see if that maybe makes it last a little longer than it did last time. This is the second one, I believe. This stuff basically is just a, it's like a silicone grease for more or less, so just put a little bit on both connectors here. Should be good to go. I've used this in contaminated environments like a sewage treatment plant where it was just corroding everything on the wires, and this actually worked pretty good, keeps the oxygenation and all that nasty stuff off the wires. We got her mounted up, everything's in place, uh, they got to change the control on the inside now. All right, got that one replaced. Got the control on there, everything matches up. Got some of that insulating compound in there. Get her back together, test her out, see if it works. All right, we're checking just flame only. We got 15.8 volts DC. We got my main burner turned off, 12 to 18s norm. Check the temperature now and see where we're at. That's a lot better than what it was, that'll be acceptable. We just got in checking our high fire and low fire, make sure our delta T was correct. On high fire, shouldn't have had no higher than 85 degrees, which I had 57 degrees going in, had about 142 going out, so I'm right at my max there. On the low fire, you adjust to so the flames just at the very bottom barely going across, but because we're in mild temperatures today, it's got a little more than what I want, but it's because it's 57 degrees out here, so it's getting 70 degree air output even though it's turned all the way down. So you're going to have a little bit of something there. The bypass valve here is what's actually letting it through and I've got it backed out as far as it can go. So that a lot of times, that's the reason why you'll lock them out, depending on your specifications until it's at least certain temperature outside, which around here I believe it's around 60. So anything above 60, it won't even run just fan only and the heaters will stay off and then other than that, everything checked out fine. Just make sure to double check everything, make sure it's right. Before I think about it, I'm going to go ahead and set it at 55. That way if it does have that 10, 15 degree rise, that'll be able to set 65, 70, and then otherwise it'll be off, but that means it'll be blowing 55 degree air until we get below it. So that's where I'm going to leave it at for right now. This device over here is a freeze protection. Basically, you can set the temperature that you want it to shut off at and for how many minutes it can run at that temperature. So basically the burners would fail. It won't keep bringing in temperature into the building to say it's below 35 degrees. You'd start freezing your pipes and breaking things. So it's a back-up in case the burners don't work. It's basically a low temperature safety, just as well as the high temperature safety is over there to the right. If the fan would quit, belts break, whatever the case, so the gas valve's in malfunction, it'll shut the system down. You've got two solenoids, the main verbal gas valve. I ain't going into details of how to set that stuff. The information's in the books and if you have any questions, go and take a look forward. The place we checked our static pressure was up on top there and down below there and that goes to the pressure switches right there that determines whether or not you're within the range of high and low parameter that can work in. If you like the video, please like, share, and subscribe. Don't forget to check the description down below for links to email and other miscellaneous things. Until next time, we'll catch you on the next one.