 Seven, six, five, four, three, two, one, go. Two, one, go. What's up guys, welcome to today's vlog. Today what we're gonna be doing is going over a haircut that I did on one of my longtime clients, Toby. He's headed off to college. So this is definitely a salon friendly haircut. It's also a great haircut for any kid going back to school and also any adult really as well. So I think you guys are gonna like this cut a lot. It's very salon friendly, check it out. Let's get started with our step by step here we go. All right, cool. So, in six weeks, so what do you wanna do? You assume the picture's nice. It's for your big college haircut. Is that what it's gonna be called? You assume the haircut's back to school? I don't know what we're gonna call it. I mean, if we can go with the usual, but if you want to, if you have something else in mind. Yeah, that's cool. I mean, just always shorter on the sides. Yeah. Not too long on the top. You wanna do the part? Yeah. Okay. So I'm gonna go in the back and clean around the ears. Clean cut. All right guys, so I know that that didn't seem like the most thorough consultation, but I've been doing Toby's hair for probably about six years and we've changed up his style a little bit. He's really into watching soccer. So he likes the soccer style haircut. So what we're gonna do, I'm gonna section it off. Toby's got very coarse thick hair. So he wants it nice and tight on the sides, disconnected on the top, nice clean cut look. But he likes to keep it a little shorter on top because of the fact that he only comes in about every six weeks. And then given the fact that he's going off to college, he's gonna come in even less. So we wanna take it nice and short on the top. So we're gonna start off, I part the hair where he's gonna wear his part. Then I go in with my two guard. This is a plastic clipper guard on the Andis Master Series Clipper. And I start off there. I wanna feel out how he likes the length. So what I'll do is I'll cut the temple area and then I'll ask him, does that length look good as a starting point? And then we go through and we just start cutting it that way. This is also a fully closed clipper. So that means that it's the shortest possible. You can see that lever on the side of the clipper that adjusts the length. So you can have it too closed or too open as they call it. And the too closed is the shortest it can be. So right before it drops down to a one guard. So we're just going through, I'm following that round of his head and working my way through into the back. I like to have that diagonal back feel. I've talked about this in many videos if you guys have been following along and watching. But I really like following the head shape back down to the lower crown area into the occipital bone. It's usually the path that I take. And then I decide after that, do I wanna take it a little higher than that or so on and so forth. I don't do this necessarily like everyone else. That's not my goal. I go through and I do it the most efficient way for me. What I realized going through Toby's hair, it's so thick and so coarse and it was so long since he had been in. It had been about six weeks. So I needed to switch to my Andis Supra ZR which is a more powerful motor clipper that we've talked about in the past as well. I've done a review on this clipper. It's super powerful. It's motor driven. So it'll get through hair a lot easier. Now what you'll notice is I went from using a two guard plastic guard to a three and three quarter blade. The blades even though they have numbers on them are not the same length as the guards. So you wanna make sure that if you make that switch you don't switch to a two blade cause that would have been way shorter than what I was cutting on his hair. And that's also different with every guest. So don't think that that's gonna be the same for everyone. Make sure you check that temple area. Do your first cut and see if they like the length before you move forward. Now I'm gonna work my way up with the clipper and kind of take away that ridge on the one side, on the right side. That's his heavy side. That's where the hair is gonna go over to. So I wanna have a little bit of a disconnect there and I don't wanna build up too much weight underneath the hair because then it'll look too thick and bulky on the one side. Also look at how my hand kind of works up the head. It works up and out not following the round of the head for this haircut. Now I switched to my one guard. This is the plastic guards on the Andis master series. And what I did was I opened up the blade. So you saw that with the lever and then I go down one notch. So that pretty much matches up nicely with the three and three quarter. It might have a little bit of a line. You can see where it's not quite blended in. So then what I'll do is I'll make that adjustment which I just did there which will help me blend that line in. That's the great thing about the master series and why you can't just have one tool to work with. I love using the master series. I love the Supra ZR. I also love using my scissor over comb techniques, trimmer over comb. We're gonna use all of those techniques in this video because not one technique or one tool is gonna make that blend for you. Toby's got really nice hair. It's pretty easy to blend it but I just work my way around and get my arm in the way that's nice. And then I just work through it. You can see that weight line right there. So I'll make that adjustment on the clipper arm and that will help me fade in his hair. You can see how it starts to disappear there. So moving the arm again, fully closing the clipper. This will be the shortest point. So now I'm just gonna work his hairline with that shortest point just to give it a little more gradation in the fade throughout the haircut. Same thing, as I'm working I'm just messing with that arm on the clipper because that gives me those different lengths and helps me fade it in different areas. The head is not flat and that's the challenge that people have when they go in to blend and fade hair is that there's little divots in the head sometimes and then that's why you get those deep shadowy spots within the haircut. Now I'm just gonna go around the hairline with my trimmer. I'm not altering the hairline. That's not my goal. In some haircuts some people do but for Toby I just wanna keep it nice and natural so I just work my way around and clean him up around his hairline. So I like to draw my first line in the back and it's really just following his natural hairline but just draw that first line and then I'll go to the opposite side and I'll work my way through and then I'll go down the back and clean it up that way. I like to do the two sides first in the back. Little trimmer over comb that always cleans it up nice, tightens it to the scalp so it gives you more of a natural feel to the hairline as well. So once I finish the back then I'm gonna go through and do a little trimmer over comb and what that's gonna do is just blend a little bit more. So I just go through, find any parts that have that kind of dark shadowy look to it and I just do the trimmer over comb. I'm using my YS Park 209 comb. It has a nice handle grip to it. It's great for barboring any scissor over comb work that you're doing or clipper over comb. It's nice and wide for that as well. Now I go back and I find that parting. I figure out where I want his part to live and I do scissor over comb. Working through using my blacksmith fit six and a half inch Mizetani scissor. Love that scissor for scissor over comb. You see me use it in pretty much every men's video that I do anytime I'm working scissor over comb. I also go through and I use my 339 comb from YS Park to help push that hair down, blow dry it down and smooth it out. You notice that when I started the section it was wet but when you scissor over comb wet hair it gets clumped together. It doesn't blend as nice. So what I like to do is go through with the blow dryer smooth it out, blow dry it in the direction I'm looking to cut and then as I work through it it gives me a nicer blend with the scissor over comb technique. So working my way into the back you can see that that comb works its way up. It's working diagonal back. I'm keeping that weight line following the crown of the head in the back. So it works its way along the bridal ridge drops down to low crown and then sits right at the high occipital bone in the back of the head. That's how I like the weight line on Toby's haircut to go. So just working through scissor over comb. Notice that steady blade stays on the bottom pretty much hangs out at the bone of the comb. So as I'm working the comb through it's scooping the hair up. It works just like a clipper. Clipper has the guard, the teeth. It works its way up the head and then there's a blade that comes back and forth. The only difference between scissor over comb and clipper over comb is you have a little bit more control with how you want to work and how much weight you want to take out. Now we're going to go through what I want to put in his part. You heard in the consultation when I said do you want to do the parting as well. He likes having that part kind of cut into his hair. Makes it easier for him to find the parting and it defines it a little bit more in his style. So I go through and I use the steady blade and I just cut down the parting. You can also do that with a razor. You can do it with your trimmers. There's a lot of different options for that. So what you notice here is I took out the corner of this part of the haircut and I cut it nice and short. It's more creating a disconnect. You're going to see why in one second. So I go through, I clean it up scissor over comb and then you can see how that hair just kind of falls over disconnected. I love that. I think it makes this style what it is. And then I go through from that point back and I blend it. So I still want the side to be blended. I don't want it completely disconnected. I think a lot of people do that. They disconnect the entire top and flop it over. I think there's a lot of different ways to create disconnection, but you don't have to disconnect the entire thing. It almost makes the haircut look undone. This makes it look more done. So I work my way all the way through over directing the hair over that disconnection. What that's going to do is blend the back for me. I still have the disconnect in the very front. You can see it right there. I'm still blending beyond that. So that's nice and clean in the back. And then I work my way into the crown, working kind of a diagonal section throughout the crown area. I move the crown around to see how it's going to fall. And then once I figure out how it's going to fall, then I go in with my cut. So I'm following the round of the head in the back here, making sure to keep it nice and connected and blended as I work through. Now there's another thing I want you to notice as I work my way towards the parting. I'm leaving that disconnected. I'm not blending that side because I want that longer piece to kind of hang over the top. That's what separates the two sides and also gives it a nice disconnected feel in the haircut, even though everything from that point on is very blended. So it gives it such a clean cut look. That's why this is great for a younger kid if you're going to do this haircut on them because it is disconnected, but they're just going to sweep it over to the side and it's going to blend all from there. And then what I do is once I get through and where the head starts to curve down, I overdirect everything to me on the opposite side. So on the part side and I cut it on a diagonal, which gives me a nice shorter piece there to help kick up and flip the length over to the side. Now I'm going to use the Donald Scott Prepare. This is a coconut oil based. It's great for razor cutting in the hair. It gives it a nice glide. It's really what it's used for mostly is preparing the hair for razor cutting, conditions the hair, but it also conditions the skin. And it's a nice little glide slip for using your straight blade on the neck. Now, obviously you would not use this product on the face to do a straight razor shave, but it's great for just cleaning up your guest's neckline. Also adds a little bit more detail, a little more of a personal touch to their haircut, especially in the hair salon, which is something that we don't do a lot of that neck shaving. So it's something great to add on to your service to make your haircuts stand out. So now I go through with the blow dryer using the nozzle to help smooth some of Toby's coarse hair down. And using the comb, this is the YS Park 209 comb that we use for our scissor over comb and all of that. It's got a little bit wider teeth. So I just go through blow dry his hair. It doesn't get tangled up in there. Then once I have that, I use my pink Rusul product, which has a semi gloss feel to it, but it's definitely Matt has a really heavy hold, one of my favorite products that they make. So I go through there, I work the product into the hair, down the sides of his hair, and then I take my 339 comb and I comb the product through. Talked about this in a past video. You definitely want to comb the product through the hair. You want the product on every bit of the hair that's what creates the style. And the Rusul products are nice and heavy. So the thing I love about that is they stay in your hair all day. You can see the clean cut. Toby looks cool. He's ready for school. I hope you guys like it. Let me know in the comments below. Thanks for watching, guys. I wish I could wear the shirt. Okay, but I wish I had a nice shirt. I packed the one that's going in there. All right, cool. All right, let's go take a picture of the whole package. Oh, good. All right, guys, if you liked that cut on Toby, then hit the like button, hit the share button, share this video with all of your friends. I appreciate the support. Thank you so much for watching, and I'll see you guys on the next video. Thanks.