 What's up internet? Maramin ang tatanong kung bibili sila ng computer, kung kailandren nila bumilen ng AVR or ng UPS. So na isip namin na saman na rin siya sa how-to-buy basic PC parts. Kung naghaanap ka ng legit Windows 10 Pro CD-Key, may special promo ngayon ng CD-Key offers for Black Friday. Mura na sila dati, mas mura pa sila ngayon. And may dug-dug 20% discount if you use our promo code. Add to cart, check out, dan ka sa payment options nila, wala pa isang minuto, finished. May legit working CD-Key ka na sa software na pinilimo. Gamitin ang aming promo code para makakuhapan ng extra 20% discount sa purchase mo. Kung naghanap ka ng mura, legit, and original software, check out CDKOffers.com. Una yung AVR or yung Automatic Voltage Regulator. Ano ba yung AVR? In the ideal world, yung transmission ng power malinis. What we mean by clean here is that very defined yung transmission frequency ng power. Kung baga, if you were to graph it, the wave would be very gentle, very defined. So di siya masyado mataas, di siya masyado mababa, tas yung amplitude niya or yung height ng wave consistent. That's the ideal situation, pero di siya ganun in real life. Especially sa atin na medyo lumana yung electricity grid. Maraming interference sa transmission lines, both natural and man-made. Anaming factors na nagdadagdag nung noise or basically that pollutes the transmission of the power. Kaya hindi na malinis yung power signal pagdating sa bahay mo, pagdating sa computer mo. In the real world, especially nga sa atin, imbis na very gentle yung wave if you were to graph the frequency of power transmission, very jagged siya. Ito yung tinatawag na noisy signal. Mataas yung peak, mababa yung valley. And so instead of having a gentle, very easily defined graph or of up and down, you usually have something na mukang mas lie detector test. Alam mo nakita sa mga movies na nagsisinungaling yung vida or yung contrabida or whoever nakahook up dun sa polygraph or lie detector test. Usually pagun ganun yung graph, parang ganun. Very high, very low, very erratic. That's how a noisy power signal looks like. And most likely ganun rin yung power signal na pumapasok sa bahay mo or sa computer mo. Kasi yung nga, medyo lumana yung electricity grid natin. Yung trabaho na AVR is to smooth out the power entering from the main line. Since it automatically regulates the voltage, kaya nga siya AVR, imbis na sobrang taas or sobrang baba yung pumapasok na voltage, the AVR restricts it to a defined range, hanggang dito ka lang or hanggang dito ka lang. So at least mas malinis na yung power signal na pumapasok dun sa computer mo. Di siya ganun ka taas, di siya ganun ka baba. The AVR automatically regulates the voltage. So kailangan mo ba talaga tung AVR kung may computer ka? For the short term, magkamatakot, pwede mo gamitin yung computer kahit walang AVR, saksak mayan directsho sa wall outlet. In fact, dito sa hardware sugar, wala kaming computer na naka saksak sa AVR. Yung test bench namin, yung dalawang staff computers namin, direct to the main, in the short term, we are not afraid that this will cause any damage. In conjunction to this, may nagtatanong pano kung may nag-fiflicker, or I'm sure na ramdaman or napansin mo na datin na nang computer ka, big lang yung ilaw mo mag-fiflicker, pero on pa naman yung computer mo, tuloy-tuloy. That's no problem. Your PSU can handle it. Walang nasisira sa loob ng computer mo, hindi nasisira yung PSU mo. Kung ganun lang yung experience mo na briefly mag-fiflicker yung ilaw, pero nakaon pa naman yung computer, hindi naman matay yung computer, that's fine. You don't need an AVR to protect you against anything there. Nothing is being destroyed sa computer mo. Iniisip kasi nung iban na yung flickering of the lights indicates na erratic ng power supply, tapos may nasisira sa loob ng PSU, yung capacitor, yung ibang components niya. Kung baga overtime, masisira siya or the quality becomes degraded. But the PSU can handle it, it's fine. You're not sacrificing your components' quality over time if you are experiencing things like that. So for short term use, you don't need an AVR. Let's say kakabile mo lang nung rig, excited ka, gusto mo na gamitin, pero walang AVR sa bahay. Walang problema, saksak mo na yan direct siyo sa wall outlet, tapos mag-download ka na, maglaru ka na, enjoy your computer. For the long term, do you need an AVR? There is some protection to using AVRs because they can protect the PSU against damage na ordinarily masisira na yung PSU. Yung usual scenario dito kung may lightning strike na, alam mo naman sa atin, magbagyo, medyo madalas yung kidlat. Sa may lightning strike, it will flow through the electric wires and into your house and into your computer. May chance, may possibility na may sasabog sa loob ng PSU mo. Usually that's the MOV or the metal oxide varistor. And once the MOV blows, hindi mo na magamit yung PSU mo. Effectively dead na siya. Kung may AVR ka, usually yung AVR may surge protection. So it protects you from sudden surges in the current, which is what happens in lightning strikes. In that scenario, kung may AVR sana yung system na yun, hindi po potok yung MOV nung PSU because maaabsorb nung AVR yung surge. And for surge protection, you actually don't need an AVR. You can buy dedicated surge protection units. They look like heavy duty extension cables or power strips. And these provide the same protection as an AVR. There are some other added small benefits to using an AVR. Like it does remove EMI or RFI interference from hardware that are connected to the same circuit. Chaka, usually mas maraming sockets yung AVR. And for a full system, you know that usually kelang mo nung at least mga four sockets for the monitor, for the system, for the printer, for the Wi-Fi router. So andami mga peripherals or accessories na kasama sa computer. And usually, you want all of those plugged into the AVR. So the AVR doubles up as a power strip. Chaka yung AVR usually may step down transformer yun. So from 220 volt, may mga ibangsaksakan sa kanya na 110 volt. Usually, most of the appliances now actually are dual volt. Yung mga cell phones natin, yung mga computer, dual volt yun. Medyo throwback yung socket nung 110 to a time na ma-cellan yung mga appliances like yung mga consoles. Datay, bilikan yung console abroad, 110 yun. Pagbalik mo dito 220, saksak mo yung 110 sa 220 outlet. Wala na GG na yan. But over time, manufacturers have gotten better. And most appliances, computers nowadays, are dual volt. Pero medyo, at least for me, parang security blanket lang na ah, at least yung AVR na to, may dalang saksakan yung 110. Just in case, you don't come across that one odd appliance na di siya dual volt na kailangan mo talaga yung saksak sa 110, the AVR is useful for that. So let's say, gusmo bumili nung AVR. Either because di ka na ninywala sa payo ko na di naman talaga siya ganoong kakailangan, or you do want that extra surge protection, or you want to clean up your power signal, or get met, or remove the EMI or RFI interference. What do you need to look out for in buying AVR? Usually, one is two one yan. Yung capacity nung AVR dapat equal dun sa kailangan nung mga components na sinasaksak mo. So let's say you have a computer, 550 watt power supply, you have a monitor, let's say that's 50 watts, and you add a printer and things like that. Basically, you add all of the wattage requirements that you have for all of the components na naka saksak dun sa AVR. Tapos yung capacity nung AVR dapat equal to or greater than the total requirements of the components that are plugged in. Tapos interestingly enough dun sa research ko for this video, may nakita akong isang scenario na nagsha shut down yung computer mag-isa while playing games. And the user was able to trace it back kasi yung AVR niya, hindi niya kaya yung power requirements nung computer niya. Sinaksak niya yung computer niya directsho sa wall outlet, wala nang problema, di na naka crash yung computer. I've never experienced this before, whether myself or customer builds from the shop, pero yung nga based dito sa reported experience nung user sa internet, it is possible na makapos yung power na pumapasok sa system mo, kasi hindi na kaya e-output nung AVR mo. Kung bagang nakabattlenec yung sa AVR, your system needs more power, but the AVR can only output so much. So usually one is two one yan. If you have a total need of around 800 watts, then you want an AVR with a capacity of 800 watts or more. Punter naman tayo sa UPS or uninterrupted power supply. Ano ba to? Basically the UPS is like a battery para kung makabrawn out, makuha yung computer mo ng power dun sa UPS kasi wala na siya makuha dun sa main line or main power line. Do you need UPS? Only if you're working on sensitive data that needs to be saved. For example, college student ka, may requirement ka na paper sa philosophy, 20 pages single space, at ginagawa mo yung paper mo sa Higelian Power Dynamics of Nichean Ethics. Naka 19 pages ka na. Tapos, biglang nagka-brown out, hindi mo na save. Wala na, GG na rin yun. There's probably no way you're getting that data back. Dun mo talaga mararam daman yung Nichean Despair. In that case, maganda saan na kung may UPS ka para at the point of brown out, hindi mo mamatay computer mo, lilipat siya dun sa UPS. It will draw power from the UPS and you will have time to save your document and shut down properly. Of course, there are a lot of us na, especially ngayon ng work from home, na very sensitive talaga yung data, kailangan ma-back up, kailangan ma-save. So yung mga lawyers ang bagwa ng pleadings, yung mga servers with different files, yung mga editors, videos or photos, or andami mga applications, andami mga use cases na kailangan talaga na up to date yung pagsave nila and yung pag-back up. For those cases, yes, you really do need a UPS. Pero let's say yung gamit mo sa computer mo, pang streaming, gamer ka. Sinestream mo yung COD, magdamag buong araw, dima kailangan ng UPS. And even if you had a UPS, kung magka-brown out yan, you wouldn't be able to play for long. Sobrang iksilang nung capacity ng UPS to power your computer, especially if you're using the computer on load, let's say sa mga graphic intensive games. And we'll get to that later in the video na ganang baka-tagal yung UPS or how long will it power your system. Personally, I've never used UPS. Tingin ko, dag-dag gastos lang yung for me. I don't have any data that is so crucial na kailangan talaga and ma-save in real time. And actually yung Windows may UPS alternative na siya. Yung tawag sa kanya, Control-S. Kainit anong work ginagawa mo sa Windows, Excel, Word, PowerPoint, gamitin mo lang yung Control-S every 10 seconds. Ako otomatik na yun. Kainit anong ginagawa ko Control-S, Control-S. Kainit walang nagbago, kainit nag-iisip lang ako dun sa document, kahit nag-research pa lang ako at wala pao nalagay sa Excel file, Control-S pa rin ako ng Control-S. And yes, yung ibang programs like Word may Autosave, magkamaniwa na dyan sa Autosave na yan. Control-S ka lang ng Control-S. Sa games, usually may hotkey for quicksave, usually it's F5, otomatik na rin yung sa akin. F5, Control-S. Paminsan sa Word, nag-F5 ako. Paminsan sa games, nag Control-S ako. Para lang talaga masave. And so for me, I don't need a UPS. But of course, it's up to the user. Kung sobrang critical talaga ng data niya at kailangan niya masave nung maayos. So, let's say, gusto mga bumili nung UPS, ano yung kailangan mo malaman? Three things. Number one, what capacity of UPS do you need to get? Usually, yung UPS re-narrate yun in VA or let's say 1000 VA. Tapos yung industry standard is 60% of the VA is the watt capacity of that UPS. Again, yung VA hindi iyan equal to the watts. So, kung may 1000 VA yan, that does not equal 1000 watts yung capacity nung UPS na yun. 60% lang yung watts capacity. So, let's say may 1000 VA UPS, yung watts capacity nung is around 600 watts. So, again, tally up everything that you will plug into the UPS and adjust accordingly. Number two, how long will it power my stuff? And the honest answer here is nobody knows. Sa toto lang, sobrang hirap na icalculate gano ba katagal yung UPS for a given system or for a given appliance because non-linear yung discharge nung battery nung UPS. Non-linear basically means it can jump around a lot. The power capacity and rate of discharge don't correlate evenly. Kung magbago lang konte dun sa power capacity, maari na sobrang laki nung difference dun na sa discharge rate. So it's not like, okay, I have a 600 watt capacity UPS and I have a 600 watt system and if I'm only using 300 watts because the system is not on load, therefore I can expect it to last one hour. It's very difficult to give estimates like that kasi yun nga non-linear yung pagkadescharge nung UPS battery. But the upside is you don't really need a lot of time. Yung purpose lang naman talaga na UPS is para ma-save mo yung current work mo. Nag-kabraun-out big lap, save mo na yung lahat. Save mo yung file transfer mo, save mo yung word file mo and then shut down mo ka-agad. The UPS is there just to give you a two-minute window, five-minute window to get your PC in order and then to shut it down properly. You don't need it to last for a very long time. Last thing you need to know for UPS is the sine wave. Or basically when the computer switches to the UPS for power, the UPS generates either a pure sine wave or a simulated sine wave. We go back to the frequency of the power signal. Mas malines, mas orderly yung signal nung pure sine wave. Yung problema since mas makadengay ang pure sine wave mas mahal siya. Usually around double the cost yung UPS na pure sine wave kaisa sa dun sa simulated sine wave. And what do we care? Unfortunately, may ibaong PSUs na hindi compatible dun sa simulated sine wave. Kailangan sa kanya pure sine wave. Yung mahirap pa dun, it's not easy to figure out po itong PSU na ito, gagahanan lang siya sa pure sine wave UPS. Wala ito sa usual system specs na linalabas nung PSU manufacturers for their units. Kung sanay ka tumingin sa mga PSU, usually tinatingan mo yung capacity, yung 80 plus rating, kung fully modular ba siya, kung Japanese capacitors and things like that. But very rarely do you find it listed na, ah, at ito kung mag-UPS ka, kailangan pure sine wave. So if you're buying a UPS for your computer system and you're not sure at hindi mo ma-research, it's best to go with a UPS na pure sine wave. Kung ma-research mo or ma-testing mo na, ah, gagahanan naman pala PSU ko dun sa simulated sine wave UPS, then it's recommended to go with that. Yes, the power signal is noisier. But value for money, again, you're not going to be running the computer on the UPS for a very long time. It's just to shut it down. So kung kaya ng simulated sine wave UPS, dun ka na, mas mura pa. So that's it for AVR and UPS. Do you need an AVR? Sa short term, no. Sa long term, you might want to consider it for added protection. Yung UPS, do you need it? It depends on your use case. Ako personally, I have an AVR. But to be honest, mas ginagamit ko pang power strip na maraming saksakan kaysa sa actual na tingko kailangan ko yung extra protection. Yung UPS, I don't have, I feel I don't need it because I have control S. And to be honest, sumasakit ulo ko sa mga power videos or videos that I make regarding mga power supply or yung mga mains, amplitude, current, watts and things like that. We do have some other videos like this one about all of the Corsair PSUs or this other video regarding why true rated is just a marketing term. And if you want to learn more about PSUs or power things related to computers, you might want to check those guys out. Thanks for watching.