 CHAPTER XI. HUNTING FOR ANOTHER HOME SITE. Our enjoyment of this first home did not last long. Hardly were we fairly settled. When news came that unsettled us again. In April of 1853 the word had begun to pass around that we were to have a new territory to embrace the country north of the Columbia River. Its capital was to be on Puget Sound. Here on the Columbia we should be a way off to one side, out of touch with the people who would shortly become a great, separate commonwealth. It seemed advisable to look around a little before making the move. So leaving the little wife and baby in the cabin, home one bright morning in May, Oliver and I each made a pack of 40 pounds and took the trail bound for Puget Sound. We camped where the night overtook us, sleeping in the open air without shelter or cover, other than that afforded by some friendly tree with drooping limbs. Our first trail let us down near the right bank of the Columbia to the Kallits, then up the Ladder River, 30 miles or more, and then across the country nearly 60 miles to Olympia. At this time there might have been about Puget Sound 2,000 white people all told, while now they are near a million. But these people were so scattered we did not realize that there are even that number for the Puget Sound 1 country is a big place. More than 200 miles long and 75 miles wide between two mountain ranges, with the Cascades on the east and the Olympics on the west. The waters of the sound, including all the channels and bays and inlets and shores of 40 islands, make more than 1600 miles of shoreline, nearly as many miles as the Oregon Trail is long. It is almost as many miles as we had the previous year traversed from the Missouri River to the Sound. Our expectations have been raised high by the glowing accounts of Puget Sound, but a feeling of deep disappointment fell upon us when we could see in the foreground only bare, dismal mud flats, and beyond these a channel scarcely twice as wide as that of the Great River we had left, bounded on either side by high, heavily tempered land. We wished ourselves back at our cabin on the Columbia. Should we turn around and go back? No. We had never done that since leaving our Indiana home. But what was the use of stopping here? We wanted a place to make a farm, and we could not do it on such forbidding land as this. The dense forest stretching out before us was interesting enough to the lumbermen, and for ought I knew there were many channels for the ships. But I wanted to be neither lumbermen nor sailor. My first camp on Puget Sound was not cheerful. Olympia, at the time, contained about 100 inhabitants. It had three stores, a hotel, a livery stable, a saloon, and one weekly newspaper. A glance at the advertising columns of this paper, the Columbian, the name which was expected to be that of the new territory, disclosed but a few local advertisers. Everybody knows everyone here a resident remarked to me. So what's the use of advertising? We could not stay at Olympia. We had pushed on past some good locations on the Shehalis and farther south without locating. Should we now retrace our steps? Oliver said no, and my better judgment also said no, though I was sorely pressed with a feeling of homesickness. The decision was quickly made to see more of this Puget Sound, but how were we to see these? To us, unexplored waters. I declared that I would not go into one of those Indian canoes, that we should upset it before we were out half an hour. I had to admit that the Indians navigated the whole sound in these canoes and were safe, but I would not trust myself in a craft. That would tip as easily as a Sishwash canoe. When I came to know the Indians better and saw their performances in these frail craft, my admiration for the canoes was even greater than my distrust had been. Neither Oliver nor I had much experience in boating, and we had none in boat building. However, when we had discarded the idea of taking a canoe, we set to work with a hearty goodwill to build us a skiff. We made it out of light lumber, then easily obtained at Tumwater. We determined to have the skiff broad enough, not too upset easily, and long enough to carry us in our light cargo of food and bedding. As in the trip across the plains, we must provide our own transportation. Here and there might be a vessel loading piles and squared timber for the San Francisco market, but not a steamer was then plying on the sound. It was not even a sailing craft that essayed to carry passengers. As the tide drew us off the placid waters of the Bay at Olympia, with just a breath of air stirring, our little 18 foot craft behaved splendidly. The slight ripples jostling across the bow brought dreams of a pleasure trip to make amends for the tiresome pack across the country. We floated lazily with the tide, sometimes taking a few strokes with the oars, and at other times whistling for the wind. The little town of Olympia to the south became dimmed by distance, but we were no sooner fairly out of the side of the little village than the question came up which way to go. What channel should we take? Let the tide decide that will carry us out towards the ocean. No, we are drifting into another bay. That cannot be where we want to go. Why, we are drifting right back, almost in the same direction from which we came, but into another bay. We'll pull this way to the point to the northeast, but there seems to be a great opening of water to the northwest. Yes, but I do not see any way out there. So we talked and pulled and puzzled until it finally dawned upon us that the tide had turned and we were being carried back into South Bay to almost the very spot whence we had come. The best thing we can do is to camp, said Oliver. I readily assented. So our first night's camp was scarcely 12 miles from where we had started in the morning. It was a fine camping place. A beautiful pebbly beach extended almost to the water's edge. Even at low tide, there was a grassy level spit, a background of evergreen giant fur timber and cool clear water gushing out from the bank nearby and such fuel for the campfire. Broken limbs with just enough pitch to make a cheerful blaze and yet body enough to last well. So we felt so happy that we were almost glad the journey had been interrupted. Oliver was the carpenter of the party. The tent builder, wood getter, and general rust about. While I, the junior, was cheap cook and bottle washer, an encampment of Indians being near, a party of them soon visited our camp and began making signs for trade. Mika, do you can clams? Which means you want clams? said one of the matrons of the party. What does she say, Oliver? I'm blessed if I know, but it looks as if she wanted to sell some clams. After considerable dickering with signs and gestures and words many times repeated, we were able to impart the information that we wanted, a lesson in cookery. If she would show us how to cook the clams, we would buy some. This brought some merriment in the camp. The idea that there lived a person who did not know how to cook clams without saying by your leave, or anything else, the motherly looking native woman began tearing down our campfire. Let her alone and see what she's up to, said Oliver, noticing that I was disturbed at such interference with my well-laid plans for bread baking. She covered the hot pebbles and sand where the fire had been with a layer of pebbles. Upon these, the clams were deposited. They were covered with fine twigs and upon the twigs, earth was placed. Colossae, meaning good, she said. Yaskolossae, which means very good, said her husband, who squatted nearby, watching the proceedings with evident approval. What did they say, I asked. I know what they said, but I don't know what they mean, responded Oliver, unless it was that she had done a good job and I think she has. Thus began and ended our first lesson in the Chinook jargon, in our first experience with a clam bake. This first clam bake gave us great encouragement. We soon learned that the bivalves were to be found in almost unlimited quantity and were widely distributed. The harvest was ready twice a day when the tide was out and we need have no fear of a famine even if cast away in some unfrequented place. Yaka, Colossae alta, which means good now, ready to serve now, said the Indian woman, uncovering the steaming mass and placing the clams on a silver found nearby. Dalate, Colossae, Muk, amuk, alta, which means exceedingly good to eat. Without understanding her words but knowing well what she meant, we felt too disposing of this, our first clam dinner. We divided with the Indians, the bread that we had been baking, that had been baked and some potatoes that had been boiled. The natives soon withdrew to their own camp. Before retiring for the night, we repaid the visit to see the little fellows of the camp scrued behind their mother when the strangers entered and shyly peep out from their retreat while the mother lovingly reassured them with kind and affectionate caresses and finally coaxed them out from under cover. Revealing something of the character of the natives that neither of us had realized before. We had been in Indian country for nearly a year but with guns by our side. If not in our hands during nearly half the time, we had not stopped to study the Indian character. We took it for granted that the Indians were our enemies and watched them suspiciously. But here seemed to be a disposition to be neighborly and helpful. We took a lesson in Chinacuk and by signs and words held conversation until a late hour. When we were ready to leave, they gave us a slice of venison enough for several meals upon offering to pay for what we were met with a shake of the head and with the words wake, wake, kultus putlach, which we understood by their actions to mean that they made us a present of it. We had made the Indians a present first. It is true. But we did not expect any return except perhaps goodwill. From that time on during the trip, I might say for all time since I found the Indians of Puget Sound always ready to reciprocate acts of kindness. They hold in high esteem a favor granted. It is not accompanied by acts showing it to be designed simply to gain an advantage. End of Chapter 11. Recording by Lyle Wilson, Haymarket, Virginia, September 2008. Chapter 12 of Ox Team Days on the Oregon Trail. This is a LibriVox recording. Our LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Ox Team Days on the Oregon Trail by Ezra Meeker and Howard Driggs. Chapter 12, Cruising About on Puget Sound. Our second day's cruise about the sound took us past historic grounds. We went by old Fortness Quality, one of the earliest posts of the Hudson Bay Company on Puget Sound. Some houses had been built on the spot in 1829 or 1830. Though the fort, one fourth of a mile back from the water, was not constructed until 1833, just 20 years before our visit. As the tide and wind favored us, we did not stop. Soon we came in sight of a fleet of seven vessels lying at anchor in a large bay, several miles in extent. The sight of those seven vessels lying in the offing made a profound impression upon our minds. We had never before seen so many ships at one place. Curiously enough, among them was the good bark, Mary Millville, with her gruff mate and big-hearted master Captain Barston. Upon the eastern slope of the shores of this bay lay the two towns, Port Stealacum and Stealacum City, both established in 1851. A far larger trade centered here than at any other point on Puget Sound. And we decided on a halt to make ourselves acquainted with the surroundings. A mile and a half from the shore we found also Fort Stealacum. It was simply the camp of a company of United States soldiers quartered in wooden shells of houses and log cabins. Intense rivalry ran between the two towns, upper and lower Stealacum at this time. As a result, things were booming. We were sorely tempted to accept the flattering offer of four dollars a day for common labor in a timber camp, but concluded not to be squared from the search for a new home site. During this visit, we began seeing Indians in considerable numbers. They seemed to be a listless lot, with no thought for the future or even for the immediate present. The Indians in those days seemed to work or play by spurts and spells. Here and there we saw a family industriously pursuing some object, but as a class they seemed to me the laziest set of people on earth. That opinion was materially modified later as I became better acquainted with their habits. I have found just as industrious people, both men and women, among the Indians as among the whites. The workers, it may be said, are less numerous among the men, though women are all industrious. Should we camp here and spy out the land, or should we go forward and see what lay before us? After a sober second thought, we realized that we had nothing to trade but labor, and we had not come as far as this to be laborers for hire. We had come to find a place to make a farm, and a farm we were going to have. Again, we set about searching for clams, and the more we searched, the less we liked the look of things. Finally, on the fourth day after along wearsome tramp, we cast off at high tide, and in a dead calm, to continue our cruise, Oliver soon dropped into a comfortable afternoon nap, leaving me in full command, as the sun shone warm, and the tide was taking us rapidly in the direction we wanted to go. Why shouldn't I doze a little too? Even if we did miss some of the sightseeing, I was aroused from my nap by Oliver's exclaiming, what is that? Then half to himself, as I live, it's a deer swimming out here in the bay. It surely can't be, I responded, three quarters asleep. That's what it is, he asserted. We were wide awake now, and gave chase. Very soon, we caught up with the animal, and succeeded in throwing a rope over its horns. By this time, we had drifted into the narrows, and we soon found we had something more important to do, than to tow a deer. We were among the riptides of the sound. Turning the deer loose, we pulled our best for the shore, and found shelter in an eddy. A perpendicular bluff rose from the high water mark, leaving no place for campfire or bed. The tides seemed to roll in waves, and with contending forces of currents and countercurrents, yet all moving in a general direction. It was our first introduction to a genuine tide rip. The water's boiled as if in a veritable cauldron, swelling up here and there, in centers and whirling with dizzy velocity. A flat bottom boat like our little skiff, we thought, would not stay afloat there very long. Just then some Indian canoes came along, moving with the tide. We expected to see them swamp as they encountered the troubled waters. But to our astonishment, they passed right through without taking a drop of water. Then there came two old man canoes creeping along shore against the tide. I have said, well, manned, but half the paddles, in fact, were wielded by women. And the post of honor, or that where most dexterity was required, was occupied by a woman. Me si kakwa skopa si kum chuk, said the maiden in the bow of the first canoe, as it drew alongside our boat, in which we were sitting. Since our evenings experience at the Klambake camp, we had been industriously studying the Chinook language, and we could understand that she was asking if we were afraid of the rough waters. We responded partly in English and partly in Chinook that we were, and besides that, it was impossible for us to proceed against the strong current. Ne si kha meet li te, she replied. That is to say, she told us that the Indians were going to camp with us and wait for the turn of the tide. And accordingly, they landed nearby. By the time the tide had turned, night had come. We hardly knew whether to camp in our boat, or to start out on unknown waters in the dark. Our Indian visitors made preparations to proceed on their journey, and assured us it was all right ahead. They offered to show us to good camping grounds in a big bay where the current was not strong. Sure enough, a short pull with a farewell current brought us to the Narrows and into Commencement Bay, in sight of numerous campfires in the distance. I remember that camp quite vividly, though I cannot locate it exactly. I know that it was on the waterfront within the present limits of the large and thriving city of Tacoma. I well remember our supper of fresh salmon. All of the delicious fish known give me the salmon caught by trolling in early summer in the deep waters of Putain Sound. The fish so fat that the excess of oil must be turned out of the pan while cooking. We had scarcely got our campfire started before Salmon was offered us. I cannot recall what we paid, but I know that it was not a high price, else we could not have purchased. The following day we could see Mount Rainier with its reflection in the placid waters of the bay. Theodore Withrop, the observant traveler who came into the same waters a few months later and rode of it as Mount Tacoma. Described it as a giant mountain dome of snow, seeming to fill the aerial spaces as the image displays the blue depths of tranquil water, a wondrous sight it was, and is whatever the name. Next day we entered the mouth of the Puyup River. We had not proceeded far up this stream before we were interrupted by a solid drift of monster trees and logs extending from bank to bank up the river for a quarter of a mile or more. The Indians told us that there were two other-like obstructions a few miles further up the river and that the current was very strong. We secured the services of an Indian in his canoe to help us up the river and left our boat at the Indian's camp near the mount. It took a tugging of two days to go six miles. We had to unload our outfit three times to pack it over cut-off trails and drag our canoe around the drifts. It was a story of constant toil with consequent discouragement not ending until we camped on the bank of the river within the present limits of the thriving little city of Puyup. The Puyup Valley at the time was a solitude. No white settlers were found, though it was known that two men had state claim had made some slight improvements. An Indian trail led up the river from commencement bay and another led westward to the Nesqually Plains. Over these pack animals could pass, but wagon roads there were none and whether a feasible route for one could be found only time and labor could determine. We retraced our steps and in the evening landed again in the mouth of the river after a severe day's toil. We were in no cheerful mood. Oliver did not sing as usual while preparing for camp. Neither did I have much to say, but I felt work mechanically preparing the much needed meal. We ate in silence and then went to sleep. We had crossed the two great states of Illinois and Iowa over hundreds of miles of unoccupied prairie land as rich as anything that ever lay out of doors. On our way from Indiana to Oregon in search of land on which to make a home. Here at what we might call the end of our rope, we had found the land, but with conditions that seemed almost too inverse to overcome. It was a discouraging outlook even if there had been roads. Such timber, it seemed an appalling undertaking to clear this land, the greater part of it being covered with a heavy growth of balm and addler trees and a thick tangle of underbrush besides. When we fell asleep that night, it was without visions of newfound wealth. And yet later I did tackle a quarter section of that heaviest timberland and never led up until the last tree, log, stump, and root had disappeared, though of course not all cleared off with my own hands. If we could have known what was coming four months later, we would have remained in spite of our discouragement and searched the valley diligently for the choice of locations. For in October following, there came the first immigrants or the Natchez pass trail into Washington. It located in a body over nearly the whole valley and before the year was ended had made a rough wagon road out of the prairies and to the Stila Coon, the county seat. We lingered at the mouth of the river in doubt as to what best to do. My thoughts went back to wife and baby in the lonely cabin on the Columbia river and again to that bargain we had made before marriage that we were going to be farmers. How could we be farmers if we do not have land? Under the donation act we could hold 320 acres but we must live on it for four years. It behooved us to look out and secure our location before the act expired which would occur the following year. With misgivings and doubts on the fourth day Oliver and I loaded our outfit into our skiff and floated out on the receding tide with her we did not know. As we drew off from the mouth of the Pallup River, numerous parties of Indians were in sight. Some were trolling for salmon with a lone Indian in the bow of each canoe. Others with poles were fishing for smelt. Still others with nets seemed waiting for fisherman's luck. Other parties were passing. Those in each canoe singing a plaintive chant in minor key accompanied by heavy strokes of the paddle handles against the sides of the canoe as if to keep time. There were some fine voices to be heard and though there were but slight variations in the sounds or words the Indians seemed never too tired in repeating and I must confess we never tired of listening. During the afternoon we had traveled some 20 miles. We saw ahead of us larger waters into which we entered finding ourselves in a bay five or six miles wide with no very certain prospect of a camping place. Just then we aspired a cluster of cabins and houses on a point to the east. There we made a landing at what is now known as Algy Point though it then bore the pretentious name of New York. We soon pushed on to the east shore where the steam from a sawmill served as a guide and landed at a point that cannot be far from the western limit of the present pioneer place in Seattle near where the totem pole now stands. As we were not looking for a mill site or town site we pushed on next day and gone about a few miles when a favorable breeze sprang up bringing with it visions of a happy time sailing. But behind us lay a long stretch of open water several miles wide and ahead we could see no visible shelter and no lessening of width. Consequently the breeze was not entirely welcome. In a short time the breeze stiffened and we began to realize that we were in danger. We were afraid to attempt a landing on the surf beaten shore but finally the wind increasing. The clouds lowering and the rain coming down in torrents we had to take the risk letting down the sail we headed our frail craft towards the shore. Fortune favored us for we found a good sandy beach upon which to land though we got a thorough drenching while so doing. Here we were compelled to remain two or three days in a dismal camp until the weather became more favorable. Then launching our boat we pulled for the head of Wibdy's Island a few miles to the northwest. Now I have a fish story to tell I have always been shy about telling it lest some smart fellow should up and say I was drawing on my imagination I am not. When we had broken camp and were sailing along we heard a dull sound like that often heard from the tide rips. As we rested on our oars we could see that there was a disturbance in the water and that it was moving towards us. It extended as far as we could see in the direction we were going. The sound increased and became like a roar of the heavy fall of rain or hail on water and we became aware that it was a vast school of fish moving south. While millions were seemingly dancing on the surface of the water or leaping in the air we could feel the fish striking against the boat in such vast numbers that they fairly moved it. The leap in the air was so high that we tried tipping the boat to try to catch some as they fell back and sure enough here and there one would drop into the boat. We soon discovered some Indians following the school. They quickly loaded their canoes by using the barbed poles and throwing the impaled fish into their canoes. With an improvised net we too soon obtained all we wanted. When we began to go on we were embarrassed by the mass of fish moving in the water. As far as we could see there was no end to the school ahead of us. But we finally got clear of the moving mass and reached the island shore in safety only to become weather bound in the wilds once more. This camp did not prove so dreary as the last one. Although it was more exposed to the swell of the big waters and the sweep of the wind to the north we had a view of 30 miles or more to where horizon and water blended leaving it duffel whether the land was in sight or not. As we afterwards ascertained we could see the famous San Juan Island later the bone of contention between our government and Great Britain. When the northern boundary of the United States was settled Port Townsend lay some 10 miles from our camp but was shed out from the view by the intervening headland. We do not know the exact location of the town like the lost hunters we knew where we were but we didn't know where any place else was not lost ourselves the world was lost from us. Three ships passed us while we're at this camp one coming out of the space as it seemed a mere speck and growing to a full-fledged deep-sea vessel. With all sails set scutting before the wind the other two were graceful beating their way out against the stiff breeze to the open waters beyond. What prettier sight is there than a full rigged vessel with all sails spread. The enthusiasm that rose as we gazed at the ships coupled with the spirit of adventure prompted us to go further. It was a calm beautiful day when we reached Port Townsend. Distance leads enchantment the old adage says but in this case the nearer we approach to the place the greater our admiration. The shining pebbly beach in front the clear level spotted joining with the beautiful open and comparatively level plateau in the background and two or three vessels at anchor in the foreground made a picture of a perfect city Upon closer examination of the little town we found that the first impression gained from a distant was illusionary. Many shacks and camps at first mistaken for the white man's houses were found to be occupied by natives. They were a drunken, rascally rabble spending their gains from the sale of fish and oil in a debauch that would last as long as their money held out. This seemed to be a more stalwart race of Indians than those to the south. That was from the buffoning received in the larger waters. They would often go out even to the open sea on their fishing excursions in canoes manned by 30 men or more. After spending two or three days exploring the country we turned back to the bay where lay the seven ships we had seen near Stilakum. We remembered the timber camps the bustle and stir of the little new village and the activity that we saw there greater than anywhere else on the waters of the sound. Most of all my thoughts would go on to the little cabin on the Columbia River. Three days suffice to land us back in the bay we sought but the ships were gone. Not a sailing craft of any kind was in sight of the little town though the building activity was going on as before. The memory of those ships however remained with us and determined our minds on the important question where the trade center was to be. We decided therefore that our new home would be near Stilakum and we finally staked our claim on an island not far from that place. Once the claim had been decided on my next desire naturally was to get home to my family. The expedition had taken 30 days and of course there had been no news from my wife nor had I been able to send back any word to her. Chapter 13 Moving from the Columbia to Puget Sound Can I get home tonight? I asked myself. It was an afternoon of the last week in June in 1853 and the sun was yet high. I was well up the left bank of the Callots River. How far I could not tell for there were no milestones on the crooked half-absurbed trail leading downstream. At best it would be a race with the sun but the days were long and the twilight was long and I would camp that much near home if I made haste. My pack had been discarded on the sound and I had neither coat nor blanket. I wore a heavy woolen shirt, a slouch hat, and worn shoes. Both hat and shoes gave ample ventilation. Socks I had none neither had I suspenders and improvised belt taking their place. I was dressed for the race and was eager for the trial. At Olympia I had parted with my brother who had returned to stay at the clams we had taken while I was to go home for the wife and baby to remove them to our new home. I did not particularly mind the camping but I did not fancy the idea of lying out so near home if by extra exertion I could reach the cabin before night. There was no friendly ox to snuggle up to for warmth as in so many of the billwax on the plains but I had matches and there were many mossy places for bed under the friendly shelter of drooping cedars. We never thought of catching cold from lying on the ground or on cedar boughs or from getting a good drenching. After all the cabin could not be reached as the trail could not be followed at night. Slacking pace at nightfall to cool my system gradually. I finally made my camp and slept as soundly as if on a bed of down. My consolation was that the night was short and I could see to travel by three o'clock. I do not look upon those years of camp and cabin life as years of hardship. To be sure our food was plain as well as our dress. Our hours of labor were long and the labor itself was frequently severe. The pioneers appeared rough and uncouth. Yet underlying all this there ran a vein of good cheer of hopefulness we never watched for the sun to go down or the seven o'clock whistle or for the boss to quicken our steps. The days were always too short and interest in our work was always unabated. The cabin could not be seen until the trail came quite near it. When I caught sight of the curl of smoke I knew I was almost there. Then I saw the cabin and a little lady in almost bloom or dress milking the cow. She never finished milking that cow nor did she ever milk any cow when her husband was at home. There were so many things to talk about that we could scarcely tell where to begin or where to stop. Much of the conversation naturally centered on the question of our moving to a new home. Why at Olympia? Eggs were a dollar a dozen. I saw them selling at that. The butter you have there would bring you a dollar a pound as fast as you could weigh it out. I saw stuff they called butter or sell for that. Potatoes are selling for three dollars a bushel and onions at four. Everything the farmer raises sells high. Who buys? Oh almost everybody has to buy. There are ships and timber camps and hotels and where do they get the money? Everybody seems to have money. Some take it there with them. Men working in the timber camps get four dollars a day and they're bored. At one place they pay four dollars a cord for wood to ship to San Francisco. And a man can sell all the shingles he can make at four dollars a thousand. I was offered five cents a foot for piles. If we had buck and dandy over there we could make twenty dollars a day putting in piles. Where would you get the piles? Off the government land of course. I'll help themselves to what they want. Then there are the fish and the clams and oysters and but what about the land for the claim? That question was a stumper. The little wife never lost sight of that bargain made before we were married. Now I found myself praising a country for the agricultural qualities of which I could not say much. But if we could sell produce higher might we not well lower our standard of an ideal farm? The claim I had taken was described with a touch of apology. In quality falling so far below what we'd hoped to acquire however we decided to move and began to prepare for the journey. The wife, baby, bedding, ox yoke, and log chain were sent up the calyx in a canoe. Buck and dandy and I took the trail. On this occasion I was ill-prepared for a cool night camp having neither blanket nor coat. I had expected to reach Hard Bread's Hotel where the people in the canoe would stop overnight. But I could not make it so again I lay out on the trail. Hard Bread's, an odd name for a hotel, was so-called because the old widower that kept the place fed his patrons on hard track three times a day. I found that my wife had not fared any better than I had on the trail. And in fact not so well. The floor of the cabin that is the hotel was a great deal harder than the sand spit where I had passed the night. I had plenty of pure fresh air while she in a closed cabin and in the same room with many others had neither fresh air nor freedom from creepy things that make life miserable. With her shoes for a pillow, a shawl for covering, small wonder that she reported I did not sleep a wink last night. We soon arrived at the callot's landing, the end of the canoe journey. Striking the tent that had served us so well on the planes and making a cheerful campfire we speedily forgot the hard experiences of the trail. Fifty miles more of travel lay before us and such a road. However we had one consolation. It would be worse in winter than at that time. Our wagon had left at the dally's and we had never seen or heard of it again. Our cows were gone given for Provinder to save the lives of the oxen during the deep December snow. So when we took account of stock we had the baby, Buck and Dandy, a tent, an ox yoke, and chain, enough clothing and bedding to keep us comfortable, a very little food and no money. The money had all been expended on the canoe passage. Should we pack the oxen and walk and carry the baby or should we build a sled and drag our things over the sound? Or should I make an effort to get a wagon? This last proposition was the most attractive. And so next morning, driving my oxen before me and leaving wife and baby to take care of the camp, I began to search for a wagon. That great-hearted pioneer John R. Jackson did not hesitate a moment, stranger though I was, to say yes you can have two if you need them. Jackson had settled there eight years before, ten miles out from the landing, and now had an abundance around him, like all the earlier pioneers. He took a pride in helping others who came later. He would not listen to our proceeding any farther before the next day. He insisted on entertaining us in his comfortable cabin and sent us on our way in the morning rejoicing in plenty. Without special incident, we were in due time arrived at the falls of the Deschutes, Tumwater, and on the shore of Puget Sound. Here a camp must be established again. The wife and baby were left there while I drove the wagon back over the tedious road to Jackson's, and then returned with the oxen to Tidewater. My feelings may well be imagined when, upon returning I found wife, baby, and tent all gone. I knew that smallpox was raging among the Indians, and that a camp where it was prevalent was less than a quarter of a mile away. The dread disease had tears then that it does not now possess. Could it be possible my folks had been taken sick and had been removed? The question was soon solved. It appeared that I had scarcely got out of sight on my trip back with the oxen before one of those royal pioneer matrons had come to the camp. She pleaded and insisted, and finally almost frightened the little wife into going with her and sharing her house, which was nearby. But out of danger from the smallpox, God blessed those earlier pioneers. They were all good to us, sometimes to the point of embarrassment in their generous hospitality. Oliver was to have had the cabin ready by the time I returned. He had not only done that, but had taken the boat and had left no sign to tell us where either brother or boat could be found. Not knowing what else to do, I paddled over to the town of Stilakum. There I found out where the boat and the provisions had been left. And after an earnest parley succeeded in getting possession. With my canoe in tow, I soon made my way back to where my little flock was, and speedily transferred all to the spot that was to be our island dwelling. We set up our tent and felt at home once more. Stilakum, three miles across the bay, had grown during my absence, and in the distance it looked like a city. In fact, as well as in name, Mount Rainier looked bigger and taller than ever. Even the songs of the Indians sounded better. The canoes looked more graceful, and the paddles seemed to be welded more expertly. Everything looked cheerful. Everything interested us, especially the crows, with their trick of breaking clams by rising in the air and dropping them on the boulders. There were so many new things to observe that for a time we almost forgot that we were nearly out of provisions and money, and did not know what had happened to Oliver. Next morning Oliver returned to the village, finding that the boat and provisions had been taken and seen smoke in the bite. He surmised what had happened, and came paddling across to the tent. He had received a tempting offer to help load a ship, and had just completed his contract. As a result of this work, he was able to exhibit a slog of California gold, and other money that looked precious indeed in our eyes. The building of our second cabin with its stone fireplace, cat and clay chimney, lumber floor, real window with glass in it, together with the high post bedstead, made out of tapering, cedar saplings, the table fastened to the wall, the rustic chairs seemed but like a play spell. No eight hour day there, 18 would be near the mark, we never tired. It was in this same year, 1853, that Congress cut off from Oregon the region that now comprises the state of Washington, and all of Idaho, north of the Snake River. The new district was called Washington Territory, so we who had moved out to the Oregon country found ourselves living in Washington. At last we were really settled and could begin the business for which we had come west, henceforth the quiet life of the farmer was to be ours, we thought. But again, we had not reckoned with the unexpected. While we were working on our new cabin, we received a letter from father saying, boys, if Oliver will come back to cross with us, we will go to Oregon next year. The letter was nearly three months old when we received it. Our answer was immediate. Oliver will be with you next spring. Then came the question of money. Would Davenport, who had bought the Columbia River claims, pay in the fall? Could he? We decided that we must go to the timber camp, during the money to pay the expenses of Oliver's journey, that we must not depend altogether on the Columbia River asset. What shall we do with the things? asked my wife. Lock them up in the cabin, suggested Oliver. And you go and stay with the dole-form rares, I added. Not I, she returned. I'm going along to cook. All our well-laid plans were thus suddenly changed. Our clearing of the land was deferred, the chicken house, the inmates of which were to make us rich, was not built, the pigs were not bought to fatten on the clams, and many other pet schemes were dropped, that all room might go back east to bring father and mother across the plains. We struck awkward but rapid and heavy strokes in the timber camp, established on the bluff overlooking the falls of Tumwater. The little cook supplied the huckleberry pudding for dinner with plenty of the lightest, whitest bread and vegetables, meat and fish, served in style good enough for kings, such appetites. No coaxing was required to get us to eat a hearty meal. Such sound sleep, such satisfaction. Talk about hardships. It was all pleasure as we counted the eleven dollars a day, that the Tullis brothers paid us for cutting logs at one dollar and seventy cents a thousand. We earned this every day. Yes, we should be able to make money enough to pay for Oliver's passage to Iowa. It was to be a long journey over the Columbia River, out from there by steamer to San Francisco, then to the Isthmus, then to New York, after that by rail as far west as there was a railroad, then on foot to Ettyville, Iowa, where the start was again to be made. It would take Oliver two months to reach Ettyville, and then at least seven more to lead the newcomers over the trail from Iowa to Peed Sound. Oliver was soon speeding on his way, and again my wife and I were left without money, and with but a scant supply of provisions, how we made out through the winter it can hardly remember, but we managed somehow, and kept well and happy. Soon after Oliver's departure, our second baby was born. In the latter part of August 1854, eight months after Oliver had left us, James K. Herd of Olympia sent me word that he had been out on the immigrant trail and had heard that some of my relatives were on the road, but that they were belated and short of provisions. He advised me to go to their assistance, to make sure of their coming directly over the Cascade Mountains and not down the Columbia River. How my people, with Oliver's experience to guide them, should be in the condition described, was past my comprehension. However, I accepted the statement as true. I felt the particular importance of their having certain knowledge as to preventing conditions of an over-mountain trip through the Notch's Pass. The immigrants of the previous year had encountered formable difficulties in the mountains, narrowly escaping the loss of everything if not facing actual starvation. I could not help feeling that possibly the same conditions still prevailed. The only way to determine the question was to go and see for myself, to meet my father's party and pilot them through the past. But how could I go and leave, wipe, and two babies on our island home? The summer had been spent clearing land and planting crops, and my money was very low. To remove my family would cost something in cash besides the abandonment of the season's work to almost certain destruction. Without a moment's hesitation, my wife said to go, she and Mrs. Darrell, who was with us as nurse and companion, but stay right where they were until I got back. I was not so confident of the outcome as she. At best, the trip was hazardous, even when undertaken well-prepared, and with company. As far as I could see, I might have to go on foot and pack my food and blanket on my back. I knew that I should have to go alone. Some work had been done on the road during the summer, but I was unable to learn definitely whether any camps were yet in the mountains. At Stelicum, there was a certain character, a doctor, then understood by few, and I may say not by many even to the end. Yet somehow I had implicit confidence in him. Though between him and me there would seem to have been a gulf that could not be closed, our habits of life were diametrically opposite. I would never touch a drop while the doctor was always drinking, never sober, neither ever drunk. It was to this man that I entrusted safekeeping of my little family. I knew my wife had such an aversion to people of this kind that I did not even tell her with whom I would arrange to look out for her welfare, but suggested another person to whom she might apply in case of need. When I spoke to the doctor about what I wanted, he seemed pleased to be able to do a kind act. To reassure me, he got out his field glasses and turned them on the cabin across the water, three miles distant. Looking through them intently for a moment he said, I can see everything going on over there. You need have no uneasiness about your folks while you're gone. And I did not need to have any concern. Twice a week during all the time I was away an Indian woman visited the cabin on the island always with some little presence. She would ask about the babies and whether there was anything needed. Then, with the parting ake nakakawi, she would leave. With a 50-pound flour sack, filled with hard bread or navy biscuit, a small piece of dried venison, a couple of pounds of cheese, a 10-cup, and half of a three-point blanket, all made into a pack of less than 40 pounds. I climbed the hill at Stella Cone and soon the road leading to Paliup. The first night was spent with Jonathan McCarthy, whose cabin was near where the town of Summer now stands. McCarthy said, you can't cross the streams on foot. I'll let you have a pony. He's small but sure-footed and hearty, and he'll carry you across the rivers anyhow. McCarthy also said, tell your folks this is the greatest grass country on earth. Why I'm sure I harvested five tons of Timothy to the acre this year. The next day found me on the road with my blanket under the saddle, my sack of hard bread, stacked on behind. I was mounted to ride on level stretches of road or across streams of which I had fully 60 crossings to make. White river on the upper reaches is a roaring torrent. The rush of waters can be heard for a mile or more from the high bluff overlooking the narrow valley. The river is not formidable except in low water, and then in but few places the river bed is full of stones worn rounded and smooth and slippery, from the size of a man's head to large boulders, thus making footing for animals uncertain. After my first experience I dreaded the crossings to come more than all else on the trip, for a misstep of the ponies might be fatal. The little fellow Bobby seemed to be equal to the occasion. If the footing became too uncertain, he would stop, stock, still, and pound the water with one foot, then reach out carefully until he could find secure footing. And finally move up a step or two. The water of the river is so charged with sediment that the bottom cannot be seen, hence the necessity of feeling the way. I soon learned that my pony could be trusted on the fords better than I. Thereafter I held only a supporting, not a guiding rain, and he carried me safely over all the crossings on my way out. Allen Porter lived near the first crossing, as he was the last settler I should see, and his the last place where I could get feed for my pony, other than grass or brows I put up for the night under his roof. He said I was going on a tom fool's errand. For my folks could take care of themselves, and he tried to dissuade me from proceeding on my journey, but I would not be turned back the following morning. I cut loose from the settlements and plunged into the deep forest of the mountains. The road, if it could be called a road, lay in the narrow valley of the White River or on the mountains adjacent. In some places, at the mud mountains, it reached more than a thousand feet above the riverbed. There were stretches where the forest was so dense that one could scarcely see the road at midday, while elsewhere, large burned areas gave an opening for daylight. During the afternoon of this day, in one of those deepest of deep forest, Bobby stopped short as his ears pricked up. Just then I caught an indistinct sight of a movement ahead, and thought I heard voices. The pony made an effort to turn and bolt in the opposite direction. Soon there appeared three women and eight children on foot, coming down the road and complete ignorance of the presence of any one but themselves in the forest. Why, stranger, where on earth did you come from? Where are you going? And what are you here for? Ask the foremost woman of the party. Mutual explanations followed. I learned that their teams had become exhausted and all the wagons but one had been abandoned, and that this one was on the road a few miles behind. They were entirely out of provisions and had nothing to eat for twenty hours except what natural food they had gathered. And that was not much. They eagerly inquired the distance to food which I thought they might possibly reach that night. Meanwhile I had opened my sack of hard bread and given them each a cracker at the eating of which the sound resembled pigs cracking dry hard corn. Neither they nor I had time to parlay long. The women with their children barefoot and ragged, bareheaded and unkept, started down the mountain intent on reaching food while I went up the road wondering how often this scene was to be repeated as I advanced on my journey. A dozen biscuits of bread is usually a very small matter, but with me it might mean a great deal. How far should I have to go? When could I find out? What would be the plight of my people when found? Or should I find them at all? Might they not pass by and be on the way down the Columbia River before I could reach the main immigrant trail? These and kindred questions weighed on my mind as I slowly ascended the mountain. The Natchez Pass Trail, along which I must make my way, had been blazed by a party of intrepid pioneers during the summer of 1853. Fifteen thousand dollars had been appropriated by Congress to be expended for a military road through the pass. I saw some of the work, but do not remember seeing any of the men who were improving the road. I stuck close to the old trail, making my first camp alone, just west of the summit. I'd reached an altitude where the night chill was keenly felt, and with only my light blanket, missed the friendly contact of the faithful ox that had served me so well on the plains. My pony had nothing but brows for supper, and he was restless. Nevertheless, I slept soundly and was up early, refreshed and ready to resume the journey. Such a road as I found is difficult to imagine. How the pioneer trailblazers had made their way through it is a marvel. It seemed incredible that forests so tall and so dense could have existed anywhere on earth. Curiously enough, the heavier the standing timber, the easier it had been to slip through with wagons, there being but little undecayed timber or a downed timber. In the ancient days, however, great giants had been uprooted, lifting considerable earth with the upturned roots. As time went on, the roots decayed, making mounds two, three, or four feet high, and leaving a corresponding hollow into which one would plunge. For the hole was covered, by a dense, short evergreen growth that completely had from view the unevenness of the ground. Over these hillocks and hollows, and over great roots on top of the ground, they had rolled their wagons. All sorts of devices had been tried to overcome obstructions. In many places where the roots were not too large, cuts had been taken out. In other places, the large timber had been bridged by piling up smaller logs, rotten chunks, brush, or earth, so that the wheels of the wagon could be rolled over the body of the tree. Usually three notches would be cut on the top of the log, two for the wheels and one for the reach or a coupling pole to pass through. In such places the oxen would be taken to the opposite side and a chain or rope would be run to the end of the wagon tongue. One man drove, one or two guided the tongue, others helped at the wheels. In this way, with infinite labor and great care, the wagons would gradually be worked over all obstacles and down the mountain in the direction of the settlements. But the more numerous the difficulties, the more determined I became to push through at all hazards, for the greater was the necessity of acquainted myself with the obstacles to be encountered and of reaching my friends to encourage and help them. Before we lay the summit of the Great Range, the paths, at 5,000 feet above sea level, at this summit, about 20 miles north of Mount Rainier in the Cascade Range, is a small stretch of picturesque, open country, known as Summit Prairie, in the Natures Pass. In this prairie, during the autumn of 1853, a camp of immigrants had encountered great difficulties. A short way out from the camp, a steep mountain to Clavity lay squarely across their track. One of the women of the party exclaimed, when she first sought, had we come to the jumping off place at last. It was no exclamation for effect, but a fervent prayer for deliverance. They could not go back, they must either go ahead or starve in the mountains. Stout hearts in the party were not to be deterred from making the effort to proceed. Go round this hill they could not. Go down it with logs trailed to the wagons, as they had done at other places they dared not. For the hill was so steep the logs would go end over end and would be a danger instead of a help. The rope they had was run down the hill and turned out to be too short to reach the bottom. James Files, one of the leaders, commanded, kill a steer. They killed a steer, cut his hide into strips and spliced the strips to the rope. It was found to be still too short to reach to the bottom. The order went out, kill two more steers, and two more steers were killed. Their hides cut into strips and the strips spliced to the rope, which then reached to the bottom of the hill. By the aid of that rope and the strips of the hides of those three steers, twenty-nine wagons were lowered down the mountainside to the bottom of this steep hill. Only one broke away. It crashed down the mountain and was smashed into splinters. The feat of bringing that train of wagons in with the loss of only one out of twenty-nine is the greatest I ever knew or heard of in the way of pioneer travel. Nor were the trials ended when the wagons had been brought down to the bottom of that hill. With snail-like movements, the cattle and men becoming weaker and weaker, the train crept along, making less progress each day, until finally it seemed that the oxen could do no more. It became necessary to send them forward on the trail of ten miles to a place where it was known that plenty of grass could be had. Meanwhile the work on the road continued until the third day, when the last particle of food was gone. Then the teams were brought back, the trip over the whole ten miles was made, and Connell's prairie was reached a dark. In the struggle over that ten miles the women and children had largely to take care of themselves while the men tugged at the wagons. One mother and her children, a ten-year-old boy, a child of four years, and a babe of eight months. In some way were passed by the wagons. These four were left on the right bank of the river when the others had crossed. A large fallen tree reached across the river, but the top, on the farther side, lay so close to the water that a constant trembling and swaying made it a dangerous bridge to cross on. None of the four had eaten anything since the day before, and but a scant supply then. But the boy resolutely shouldered the four-year-old child and deposited him safely on the other side. Then came the little tot, the baby, to be carried across in his arms. Last came the mother. I can't go, she exclaimed. It makes me so dizzy. Put one hand over your eyes, mother, and take hold of me with the other, said the boy. They began to move out sideways on the log, half a step at a time. Hold steady, mother. We are nearly over. Oh, I'm gone, she cried, as she lost her balance and fell into the river. Happily they were so near the farther bank that the little boy was able to catch with one hand a branch that hung over the bank while he held on to his mother with the other hand, and so she was saved. It was then nearly dark, and without knowing how far it was to camp, the little party started on the road, tearing on the bank of the river only long enough for the mother to wring the water out of her skirts. The boy carried the baby while the four-year-old child walked beside his mother. After nearly two miles of travel and the ascent of a very steep hill, they caught the glimmer of camp lights. The mother fell senseless, utterly prostrated. The boy hurried his two little brothers into camp, calling for help to rescue his mother. The appeal was promptly responded to. She was carried into camp and tenderly cared for until she revived. There were 128 people in that train. Among them, as a boy, was George Himes, who for many years has been secretary of the Oregon Historical Society. To him we are indebted for most of this story of pioneer heroism. End of Chapter 15 Chapter 16 OF AUX TEAM DAYS ON THE ORGAN TRAIL This is a LibreVox recording. All LibreVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibreVox.org. AUX TEAM DAYS ON THE ORGAN TRAIL by Ezra Meeker and Howard Driggs Chapter 16 Climbing the Cascade Mountains Up through the Natchez Pass, Bobby and I took our lonely way to reach and bring over the same difficult trail, the party in which were my parents and my brothers and sisters. From the first chill night, following the sweat due to the climb of the day before, my muscles were a bit stiffened, but I was ready for the climb to the summit. Bobby was of a different mind. As I have said, he had been restless during the night. I had just strapped the roll of blankets and hard bread securely behind the saddle, when he suddenly turned his face homeward and trotted off gaily down the mountain. I could do nothing but follow him. The narrow cut of the road and impenetrable obstructions on either side prevented my heading off his rascally maneuvers. Finally, on finding a nip of grass by the roadside, he slackened his gate, and after several futile attempts, I managed to get a firm hold of his tail. After this, we went down the mountain together much more rapidly than we had come up the evening before. Bobby forgot to use his heels, else he might for a longer time have been master of the situation. The fact was, he did not want to hurt me, but was determined to go no farther into the mountains, where he could not get a supper. The contest was finally settled in my favour, when I managed to catch hold of the rain. Did I chastise him? Not a bit. I did not blame him. We were partners, but it was a one-sided partnership, as he had no interest in the enterprise, other than to get enough to eat as we went along. And when he saw no prospect of food, he rebelled. We were soon past our camping-ground of the night before, and on our way up the mountain. Bobby would not be led. If I tried to lead him, he would hold back for a while, then make it a rush up this deep ascent. He would be on my heels or toes before I could get out of the way. I would seize his tail with a firm grasp and follow. When he moved rapidly, I was helped up the mountain. When he slackened his pace, then came the resting spell. The engineering instinct of the horse tells him how to reduce grades by angles, and Bobby led me up the mountains in zigzag courses. I followed him always with the firm grasp of the tail. That meant we would not part company, and we did not. By noon we had surmounted all obstacles, and stood upon the summit Prairie, one of them, for there are several. Here Bobby feasted to his heart's content, while for me it was the same old story, hard tack and cheese, with a small allotment of dried venison. To the south, apparently but a few miles distant, the old mountain, Renier, loomed up into the clouds, fully ten thousand feet higher than where I stood, a grand scene to behold, worthy of all the effort expended to reach this point. But I was not attuned to view with ecstasy the grandeur of what lay before me. Rather I scanned the horizon to ascertain, if I could, what the moral might bring forth. This mountain served the pioneer as a huge barometer to forecast the weather. How is the mountain this morning, the farmer asked in harvest time, as the mountain got his nightcap on, the housewife inquired before her wash was on the line. The Indian would watch the mountain with intent to determine whether he might expect snoss, rain, or cool snoss, hail, or to cope a snoss, snow, and seldom filled in his conclusions. So that day I scanned the mountaintop, partially hidden in the clouds, with forebodings verified at nightfall. A light snow came on just before night, which with the high mountains on either side of the river, spread darkness rapidly. I was loathed camp. If I could safely have found my way, I would have traveled all night. The trail in places was very indistinct, and the canyon was but a few hundred yards wide, with the torturous river, striking first one bluff, and then the other, making numerous crossings necessary. Finally I saw that I must camp. I crossed the river to an opening, where the bear tracks were so thick, that the spot seemed a playground for all these animals round about. The black bears on the western slope were timid and not dangerous, but I did not know about the species of the eastern slope. I found two good-sized trees that had fallen obliquely across each other. With my pony tethered as a sentinel, and my fire as an advanced post, I went to bed, near the supper-less. I felt lonesome, but I kept my fire burning all night, and I slept soundly. Early next morning found Bobby and me on the trail. We were a little chilled by the cold mountaineer, and very willing to travel. Towards nightfall I heard the welcome tinkling of a bell, and soon saw first the smoke of camp fires, and then a village of tents, and grime-covered wagons. How I tugged at Bobby's halter to make him go faster, and then mounted him, without getting much more speed, can better be imagined than told. Could it be the camp I was searching for? It had about the number of wagons and tents that I expected to meet. No, I was doomed to disappointment. Yet I rejoiced to find someone to camp with, and talk to, other than the pony. The greeting given me by those tired and almost discouraged travelers could not have been more cordial had they been my relatives. They had been toiling for nearly five months on the road across the plains, and now they're loomed up before them, this great mountain ranged across. Could they do it? If they could not get over with their wagons, could they get the women and children through safely? I was able to lift a load of doubt and fear from their jaded minds. Before I knew what was happening, I caught the fragrance of boiling coffee and fresh meat-cooking. The good matrons knew without telling that I was hungry and had set to work to prepare me a meal, a sumptuous meal at that. Taking into account the wedded appetite, incident to a diet of hard bread straight, and not much of that either, for two days. We had met on the Yakima River at the place where the old trail crosses that river, near the side of the present flourishing city of North Yakima. In this party were some of the people who next year lost their lives in the White River Massacre. They were Harvey H. Jones, his wife and three children, and Georgie King, his wife and one child. One of the little boys of the camp, John I. King, lived to write a graphic account of the tragedy in which his mother and stepfather and their neighbors lost their lives. Another boy, a five-year-old child, was taken off, and after being held captive for nearly four months, was then safely delivered over by the Indians to the military authorities at Fort Stealacum. I never think of those people, but with sadness, their struggle, doubtless the supreme effort of their lives, was only to go to their death. I pointed out to them where to go to get good claims, and they had lost no time, but had gone straight to the locality recommended, and had set immediately to work preparing shelter for the winter. Are you going out on those planes alone? Mrs. Jones asked me anxiously. When I told her that I would have the pony with me, she insisted, well, I don't think it is safe. Mr. Jones explained that his wife was thinking of the danger from the ravenous wolves that infested the open country. The party had lost weakened stock from their forages right close to the camp. He advised me not to camp near the watering-places, but to go up on the high ridge. I followed his advice with the result, as we shall see, of missing my road and losing considerable time, which met not a little trouble and anxiety. End Chapter 16 Chapter 17 of Ox Team Days on the Oregon Trail This is a LibriVox recording, all LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Ox Team Days on the Oregon Trail by Ezra Meeker and Howard Driggs. Chapter 17 Finding My People On leaving my newly found friends, I faced a discouraging prospect. The start for the high arid tablelands boarding the Yakima Valley cut me loose from all communication. No more immigrants were met, until I reached the main traveled route beyond the Columbia River. The road lay through a forbidding sage plain, or rather an undulating country, covered by shifting sands and dead grass and comparatively scant growth. As the sun rose, the heat became intolerable. The dust in places brought vivid memories of the trip across the plains. Strive against it as I might, my eyes would strain at the horizon to catch a glimpse of the expected train. Then an intolerable thirst seized upon me and compelled me to leave the road and descend into the valley for water. I dared not linger off the trail and take the chances of missing the expected train, so I went through another stretch of travel of heat and thirst that lasted until during the afternoon when I found water on the trail. Tethering my pony for his much needed dinner, I opened my sack of hard bread to count the contents. My store was half gone. I lay down in the shade of a small tree near the spring to take an afternoon nap. Rousing before sundown refreshed, Bobby and I took the trail with new courage. When night came, I could not find it in my heart to camp. The cool of the evening invigorated the pony, and we pushed on, finding that the road could be followed, though but dimly seen. I kept on the trail until a late hour when I unsaddled and hobbled the pony. The saddle blanket was brought into use, and I was soon off in dreamland forgetting all about the dust, the trail, or the morrow. In the morning I awoke to find that the pony had wandered off on the hillside, so far in fact that it required close scanning to discover him. To make matters worse, his hobbles had become loosened, giving him free use of all his feet, and he was in no mood to take the trail again. Coaxing was of no avail. Driving would do no good. Taking an opportunity to seize his tail, I followed him around about over the plain, and through the sage brush at a rapid gate. Finally he slackened pace, and I again became master. For the life of me, I could not be sure of the direction of the trail after all this roaming over the plain at Bobby's heels, but I happened to take the right course. When the trail was found, there was the saddle to look for, and this was located with some difficulty. The sun was high when we started our journey. A few hundred yards of travel brought uneasiness, as it was evident that we were not on the regular trail, not knowing, but that this was some cutoff. I went on until the Columbia River Bluff was reached, and the Great River was in sight. Half a mile distant and several hundred feet lower, taking the trail down the bluff that seemed more promising than the wagon tracks. I began to search for the road at the foot of the bluff, only to find every semblance of a road gone. I'd lost more than a half a day's precious time, and again was thrown into anxiety, lest I'd miss the long-sought train. The next incident that I remembered vividly was my attempt to cross the Columbia. Just below the mouth of the Snake River, I had seen but a few Indians on the whole trip, and in fact the camp I found there on the bank of the Great River was the first I distinctly remember coming upon. I could not induce the Indians to cross me over. They seemed surly and unfriendly. Their behavior was so in contrast to that of the Indians on the sound, that I could not help wondering what it meant. No one, to my knowledge, lost his life at the hands of the Indians that season. But the next summer, all or nearly all the travelers who ventured into that country and protected were murdered. That night I camped late opposite Wallula, or Fort Walla Walla, in a sandstorm of great fury. I tethered my pony this time and rolled myself up in the blanket, only to find myself fairly buried in the drifting sand in the morning. It required a great effort to creep out of the blanket, and an even greater effort to free the blanket from the accumulated sand. By this time the wind had gone down, and comparative calm prevailed. Then came the attempt to make myself heard across the wide river by the people of the fort. I traveled up and down the riverbank for half a mile or so, in the hope of catching a favorable breeze, to carry my voice to the fort, yet all to no avail. I sat upon the bank hopelessly discouraged, not knowing what to do. I must have been two hours hallowing at the top of my voice until I was hoarse from the violent effort. Finally, while sitting there wondering what to do, I spied a blue smoke arising from a cabin on the other side. Soon after I saw a man. He immediately responded to my renewed efforts to attract attention. The trouble had been that the people were all asleep while I was there in the early morning, expending my breath for nothing. The man was Shirley Ensign of Olympia, who had established a ferry across the Columbia River, and had lingered to set over belated immigrants if any should come along. He came across the river and gave me glad tidings. He'd been out on the trail fifty miles or more, and had met my people. They were camped some thirty miles away, he thought, and they would reach the ferry the following day. But I could not wait there for them. Picuring a fresh horse, I started out in a cheerful mood. Determined to reach camp that night, if I could possibly do so. Sundown came, and there was no sign of camp. Dust came on, and still no signs. Then I spied some cattle grazing on the upland, and soon came into the camp in a ravine that had shut it from view. Rejoicing and outbursts of grease followed. I inquired for my mother the first thing. She was not there. Months before she had been buried in the sands of the plant valley, my younger brother also lay buried on the plains near Independence Rock. The scene that followed is too sacred memory to write about. When we came to consider how the party should proceed, I advised the over-mountain trip. But I cautioned them to expect some snow and much hard work. How long will it take, they asked. About three weeks. This brought disappointment. They had thought they were about through with the journey. You came to stay with us, didn't you? I want to, but what about my wife and the two babies at the island? Father said someone must go and look after them, so Oliver was sent ahead. While I was to take his place and help the immigrants through the Netsch's pass. In our train were 50 or more head of stock, 7 wagons and 17 people. We made the trip across the divide in 22 days without serious mishap or loss. This was a good time considering the difficulties that beset our way at every step. Every man literally put his shoulder to the wheel. We were compelled often to take hold of the wheels to boost the wagons over the logs or to ease them down steep places. Our forces were divided into three groups. One man to each wagon to drive, four to act as wheelmen, father and the women on foot or horseback to drive the stock. God blessed the women folk of the plains. Nobler, braver, more uncomplaining souls were never known. I have often thought that someone ought to write a just tribute to their valor and patience, a book of their heroic deeds. One day we encountered a newly fallen tree cocked up on its own upturned roots, four feet from the ground. Go around it we could not. To cut it out with our dulled flimsy saw seemed an endless task. Digged down boys said father and in short order every available shovel was out of the wagons. Very soon the way was opened fully four feet deep and oxen and wagons passed under the obstruction. Do you say that we endured great hardships? That depends on the point of view. As to this return trip I can truly say for myself that it was not one of hardship. I enjoyed overcoming the difficulties and so did the greater number of the company. Many of them it is true were weakened by the long trip across the plains but better food was obtainable and the goal was near at hand. It was a positive pleasure therefore to pass over the miles one by one. Assured that final success was a matter of only a short time. When our little train at last emerged from the force and came out in the Nesqually Plains it was almost as if we'd come into a noonday sun from a dungeon. So marked was the contrast. Hundreds of cattle sheep and horses were quietly grazing scattered over the landscape as far as one could see. The spirits of the tired party rose as they looked upon the scene indicating a contentment and prosperity in which they might participate if they so desired. Our cabin 18 feet square could not hold all the visitors. However it was an easy matter to set up the three tents they had brought with them and for several days we held a true reunion. Great was the feasting with clam bakes, huckleberry pies, and pudding, venison for meat, and fresh vegetables from our garden at which newcomers could not cease from marveling. The row of sweet peas that my wife had planted near the cabin helped to put heart into those travel weary pioneers where flowers could be planted a home could be made. For a short time the little party halted to take breath and to look over the new country. This rest however could not last long. Preparations must be made without delay for shelter from the coming storms of winter. The stock must be cared for and other beginnings made for a new life of independence. After surveying the situation father said the island home would not do. He had come 2,000 miles to live neighbors and must give up my claim and take up another near his on the mainland and banning the results of more than a year's hard work I acted upon his request and across the bay we built our third cabin. End of Chapter 13. Recording by Lyle Wilson Haymarket, Virginia, October 2009. Chapter 18 of Ock's Team Days on the Oregon Trail. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org. Recording by Linda Dodge. Ock's Team Days on the Oregon Trail by Ezra Maker and Howard Driggs. Chapter 18. Indian War Days. One of the saddest chapters in the early history of Washington territory was the trouble with the Indians which led finally to open war. On October the 28th, 1855, word came that all the settlers living on the White River had been killed by the Indians and that the next day those in the Puyallup Valley would be massacred. At the risk of his life a friendly Indian brought this news to us at the dead hours of the night. The massacre had occurred less than 20 miles from where we lived for all we knew the Indians might be on us at any moment. There were three men of us and each had a gun. The first thing we did was to harness and hitch the team to the wagon. Then we opened the gates to let the calves get to their mothers, turn the pigs loose and open the chicken house door. All this without light. Then the drive for our lives began. The women and babies lying close to the bottom of the wagon. The men with guns ready for action. We reached Fort Stylacum unmolested but we could not safely stop there. The place was really no fort at all only an encampment and it was already filled with refugees from surrounding settlements so we pushed on into the town and stayed there until a blockhouse was built. This building was about 50 feet wide and nearly a hundred feet long. It was bulletproof without windows and two stories high. A heavy door swung at the front entrance to the lower story while an inclined walk from the higher ground in the rear enabled us to reach the upper story. Inside a ladder served the purpose of a stairway between the two stories. The blockhouse provided a haven of safety during the Indian trouble not only to our own family but to many of our neighbors besides. 75 such houses were built during these troubleous times. Numbers of settlers did not go back to their homes for several years. The Indians finally came in force just across the sound and defied the troops. They also prevented the soldiers from landing from the steamers sent against them. A few days later we heard the guns from Fort Nisqually which however I have always thought was a false alarm. It was when a captive child was brought in that we began to feel the gravity of the situation. Yet many of our fears turned out to be baseless. For instance one day Johnny Boatman a little boy not quite four years old was lost. His mother was almost crazed for word went out that the Indians had stolen him. A day later the lad was found under a tree asleep. He had simply wandered away. A perplexing feature of the whole affair came from the fact that there were two warring camps among the forces of both the Indians and the whites. Some of the Indians were friendly. We had ample proof of that fact. Some of the whites were against the harsh measures taken by those in charge. This dissension led to much unnecessary trouble and bloodshed. The war was brought on by the fact that the Indians had been wronged. This seems certain. They had been robbed of their lands by the treaties made in 1854 and there had been atrocious murders of the Indians by irresponsible white men. The result was suffering and trouble for all of us. The war brought troops, many of whom were reckless men. The army then was not up to the standard of today. Besides there came in the wake of the soldiers a trail of gamblers and other disreputable people to vex and perplex us. In the blockhouses could be seen bullet marks, which we knew did not come from Indians. I remember a little drummer boy, known as Scotty, who used to frequently come over to our home. He was a bright little fellow and the colonel finding it was agreeable to us encouraged him to make these visits, perhaps to get him away a little from the rough life of the post. Scotty had been living with a soldier there who, as a report had it, used to get drunk and beat his wife. When my wife asked Scotty one day if the soldier had abused his wife, he replied, well, I can't say exactly that he abuses her. He only cuffs and kicks her around the house sometimes. Poor boy, he had seen so much rough living that he didn't know what abuse meant. Not all the soldiers were of this drunken caste, of course. Many brave and noble men were among the military forces. The Indians naturally did not discriminate between good and bad soldiers. They hated and fought the troops, while at the same time they would often protect the pioneers, with whom they had been generally friendly. I had lived in peace with these Indians and they had gained my confidence. As events subsequently showed, I held their friendship and confidence. At one time during the war a party of Indians held me harmless within their power. They had said they would not harm those who had advocated their cause at the time the treaties were made. Soon after the outbreak noted, I disregarded the earnest entreaties of many persons and went back to my stock and to the cabin to care for the abandon dairy and young cattle. I did not believe the Indians would molest me, but took the precaution of having my rifle in a convenient place. I did not need to use it. When nightfall came I did withdraw from my cabin, not from fear of war parties, but of individual outlaws. The sole military experience of my life consisted in an expedition to the Puyallup Valley with a company of 17 settlers soon after the outbreak described. The settlers of Puyallup had left their homes the day after the massacre in such haste that they were almost destitute of clothing, bedding and food as well as shelter. A strong military force had penetrated the Indian country, the Upper Puyallup Valley and beyond. We knew of this, but we did not know that the soldiers had retreated by another road virtually driven out. The very day we went in armed with all sorts of guns and was scarcely any organization. We had gone into the Indian stronghold, not to fight Indians, but to recover property. Nevertheless there would have been hot work if we had been attacked. The settlers knew the country as well as did the Indians, and were prepared to meet them on their own ground and in their own way. The Indians were in great force but a few miles distant. They had scouts on our tracks but did not molest us. We visited every settler's cabin and secured the belongings not destroyed. On the sixth day we came away with great loads of plunder. All the while we were in blissful ignorance that the troops had been withdrawn and that no protection lay between us and the Indian forces. After this outbreak Indians and settlers about our neighborhood lived in peace on the whole. To anyone who treated them fairly the Indians became loyal friends. Mowik Man, an Indian whom I was to know during many years, was one of our neighbors. He frequently passed our cabin with his canoeing people. He was a great hunter, a crack shot, and an all-round Indian of good parts. Many is the saddle of venison that he brought me in the course of years. Other pioneers likewise had special friends among the Indians. Some of Mowik Man's people were fine singers. His camp or his canoe if he was traveling was always the center for song and merriment. It is a curious fact that one seldom can get the Indian music by asking for it but rather must wait for its spontaneous outbursts. Indian songs in those days came from nearly every nook and corner and seemed to pervade the whole country. We often could hear the songs and accompanying stroke of the paddle long before we saw the floating canoes. End of Chapter 18, Chapter 19 of Ox-Team Days on the Oregon Trail. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org. Recording by Linda Dodge. Ox-Team Days on the Oregon Trail by Ezra Meeker and Howard Driggs. Chapter 19 The Stampede for the Gold Diggings. Hardly had we got fairly over the Indian War when another wave of excitement broke up our pioneer plans again. On March 21st, 1858 the schooner Wild Pigeon arrived in Steelacoon with the news that the Indians had discovered gold on the Fraser River and they had traded several pounds of the precious metal with the Hudson's Bay Company and that three hundred people had left Victoria and its vicinity for the new land of El Dorado. Furthermore the report ran the mines were exceedingly rich. The wave of excitement that went through the little settlement upon the receipt of this news was repeated in every town and hamlet of the whole Pacific Coast. It continued even around the world summoning adventurous spirits from all civilized countries of the earth. Everybody, women, folk and all wanted to go and would have started pale mill had there not been that restraining influence of the second thought especially powerful with people who had just gone through the mill of adversity. My family was still in the blockhouse that we had built in the town of Steelacoon during the Indian War. Our cattle were peacefully grazing on the plains a few miles away. One of the local merchants Samuel McCall bundled up a few goods made a flying trip up the Fraser River and came back with 50 ounces of gold dust and the news that the mines were all that had been reported and more too. This of course added fuel to the flame. We all believed that a new era had dawned upon us similar to that of 10 years before in California which changed the world's history. High hopes were built most of them to end in disappointment. Not but that there were extensive mines and that they were rich and that they were easily worked. How to get to them was the puzzling question. The early voyagers had slipped up the Fraser before the freshets came down from the melting snows to swell the torrents of that river. Those going later either failed altogether and gave up the unequal contest or lost an average of one canoe or boat out of three in the persistent attempt. How many lives were lost never will be known. Contingents began to arrive in Stella Cone from Oregon, from California and finally from the States. Steamers great and small began to appear with little cargo but with passengers lists that were said to be nothing compared to those of ships coming in less than a hundred miles to the north of us. These people landing in Watcom in such great numbers must be fed, we agreed. If the multitude would not come to us to drink the milk of our cows and eat their butter what better could we do than to take our cows to the place where we were told the multitude did not hesitate to pay a dollar a gallon for milk and any price one might ask for fresh butter. But how to get even to Watcom was the rub. All space on the steamers was taken from week to week for freight and passengers and no room was left for cattle. In fact the run on provisions for the gold rush was so great that at one time we were almost threatened with famine. Finally our cattle mostly cows were loaded in an open scowl and taken in tow alongside the steamer, the seabird I think it was. All went well enough until we arrived off the head of Whitby Island. Here a choppy sea from a light wind began slopping over the scow and eventually would sink us despite our utmost efforts at bailing. When the captain would slow down the speed of his steamer all was well but the moment greater power was applied over the gunnels would come the water. The dialogue that ensued between the captain and me was more emphatic than elegant. He dared not risk letting go of us however or uprunning us under. For fear incurring the risk of heavy damages I would not consent to be landed. So about the 20th of June we were set adrift in Bellingham Bay and tired and sleepy landed on the beach. Our cows must have feed they must be milked and milk must be marketed. There was no rest for us during another 36 hours. In fact there was but little sleep for anybody on that beach at that time. Several ocean steamers had just dumped 3,000 people on the beach and there was still a scramble to find a place to build a house or stretch a tent or even to spread a blanket. For there were great numbers already there landed by previous steamers. The sticking of lots on the tide flats at night when the tide was out seemed to be a staple industry. A few days after my arrival four steamers came with an aggregate of more than 2,000 passengers. Many of these however did not leave the steamer. They took passage either to their port of departure San Francisco or Victoria or to points on the sound. The ebb tide had set in and although many steamers came later and landed passengers their return list soon became large and the population began to diminish. Taking my little dory that we had with us on the scale I rode to the largest steamer lying at anchor. So many small boats surrounded the steamer that I could not get within 100 feet of it. All sorts of craft filled the intervening space from the smallest Indian canoe to large barges, the owner of each craft striving to secure customers. The great difficulty was to find a trail to the gold fields. This pass and that pass was tried without success. I saw 60 men with heavy packs on their backs start out in one company. Every one of these had to come back after floundering in the mountains for weeks. The Indians among whom the spirit of war still smoldered headed off some of the parties. The snows kept back others and finally the British watching their own interests blocked the way through their land as a result the boom bust and people resought their old homes. It is doubtful if another stampede of such dimensions as that to the Frasier in 1858 ever occurred where the suffering was so great and the prizes so few and the loss of life proportionately so great. Probably not one in 10 that made the effort reach the mines and of those who did the usual percentage drew the blanks inevitable in such stampedes. And yet the mines were immensely rich. Many millions of dollars of gold came from the find in the lapse of years and gold is still coming though now more than 60 years have passed. While the losses of the people of the Puget Sound country were great nevertheless good came out of the great stampede in the large accession of population that remained after the return tide was over. Many people had become stranded and could not leave the country but went to work with a will to make a living there. Of these not a few are still honored citizens of the state that has been carved out of the territory of that day. End of Chapter 19 Chapter 20 of Ox-Team Days on the Oregon Trail This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org Recording by Grace Woodward Ox-Team Days on the Oregon Trail by Ezra Meeker and Howard Driggs Chapter 20 Making a Permanent Home in the Wilds The days that followed our adventure in the gold field were more peaceful and prosperous. Soon after the Indian War we had moved to a new claim. We began now to realize to the full our dream of earlier days to settle on a farm and build a home. Three neighbors were all we had and the nearest lived nearly two miles away. Two of them kept Bachelors Hall. The thick high timber made it impossible for us to see any of our neighbors' houses. We could reach only one by a road. To the others we might go by a trail. Under such conditions we could not have a public school. This however did not keep us from having a school of our own. One day one of our farther off neighbors, who lived more than four miles away, came to visit us. Naturally the children flocked around him to hear his stories in broad scotch and to ply him with questions. In his turn he began to ask them questions. One of these was, when do you expect to go to school? Oh we have school now, responded the children. We have school every day. And pray, who is your teacher and where is your schoolhouse? Father teaches us at home every morning before breakfast. He hears the lessons then and mother helps us too. Your father told me a while ago that you had your breakfast at six o'clock. What time do you get up? My father sets the clock for half past four and that gives us an hour while mother gets breakfast, you know. Boys and girls of today may pity those poor pioneer children who had to get up so early. They may as well dismiss such feelings from their hearts. The children were cheerful and healthy. They did some work during the day in addition to studying their lessons. And besides they went to bed earlier than some boys and girls do these days. In January 1861 the wreck of the steamer Northener brought great sorrow to us for my brother Oliver was among those lost. The ship struck on an unchartered rock. During the stay at Stilakum in the time of the Indian troubles we had begun a trading venture in a small way. The venture having proved successful we invested all our savings in a new stock of merchandise and this stock not all paid for went down with the ship. Again we must start in life and we moved to a new location, a homestead in the Puyallup valley. Here we lived and farmed for 41 years seeing the town of Puyallup grow up on and around the homestead. In the Puyallup valley there were more neighbors two families to the square mile yet no neighbors were in sight because the timber and underbrush were so thick we could scarcely see two rods from the edge of our clearing but the neighbors were near enough for us to provide a public school and build a schoolhouse. Some of the neighbors took their axes to cut the logs some their oxen to drag them others their saws and cleaving tools to make clapboards for the roof others again more handy with tools made the benches out of split logs or as we called them punchens with willing hands to help the schoolhouse soon received the finishing touches. The side walls were scarcely high enough for the doorway so one was cut in the end the door hung on wooden hinges which squeaked a good deal when the door was opened or shut but the children did not mind that the roof answered well enough for the ceiling overhead and a cut in one of the logs on each side made two long narrow windows for light the children sat with their faces to the walls with long shelves in front of them while the smaller tots sat on low benches near the middle of the room when the weather would permit the teacher left the door open to admit more light there was no need to let in more fresh air as the roof was quite open and the cracks between the logs let in plenty of it sometimes we had a woman for teacher and then the salary was smaller as she boarded around that meant some discomfort for her during part of the time where the surroundings were not pleasant one day little Kerry my daughter started to go to school but soon came running back out of breath mama mama I saw a great big cat sharpening his claws on a great big tree just the way pussy does she said as soon as she could catch her breath sure enough upon examination there were the marks of a cougar as high up on the tree as I could reach it must have been a big one to reach so far up the tree but the incident soon dropped out of mind and the children went to school on the trail as if nothing had happened afterwards I met a cougar on a lonely trail in the woods near where Auburn now stands I had been attempting to drive some wild cattle home but they were so unruly that they scattered through the timber and I was obliged to go on without them late in the day the forest was so dense that it was hard to see the road even when the sun was shining on a cloudy day it seemed almost like night though I could see well enough to keep on the crooked trail just before I got to stuck river crossing I came to a turn in the trail where it crossed the top of a big fur that had been turned up by the roots and had fallen nearly parallel with the trail the big roots held the butt of the tree up from the ground I think the tree was four feet in diameter a hundred feet from the butt and the whole body from root to top was 84 steps long or about 250 feet I didn't stop to step it then but you may be sure I took some pretty long strides about that time for just as I stepped over the fallen tree near the top I saw something move on the big body near the roots the thing was coming right towards me in an instant I realized that it was a great cougar he was pretty but he did not look especially pleasing to me I didn't know what to do I had no gun with me and I knew perfectly well there was no use to run was I scared did you say did you ever have creepers run up your back and right to the roots of your hair and nearly to the top of your head did the cougar hurt me if I had been hurt I shouldn't have been here to tell you this this story the fun of it was that the cougar hadn't seen me yet but as soon as he did he scampered off as if the old harry himself were after him while I sped off down the trail as if old bielzebub were after me but no wild animals ever harmed us and we did not die for want of food clothing or shelter although we did have some experiences that were trying before the clearings were large we sometimes were pinched for both food and clothing I will not say we suffered much for either though I know that some families at times lived on potatoes straight usually fish could be had in abundance and there was considerable game some bear and plenty of deer the clothing gave us more trouble as but little money came to us for the small quantity of produce we had to spare I remember one winter when we were at our wits ends for shoes we just could not get money to buy shoes enough to go around but we managed to get leather to make each member of the family one pair we killed a pig to get bristles for the wax ends cut the pegs from alderlog and seasoned them in the oven and made the last out of the same timber those shoes were clumsy to be sure but they kept our feet dry and warm and we felt thankful for them and sorry for some neighbor's children who had to go barefooted even in quite cold weather carry once had a pair of nice white shoes for best I remember that one of her brothers made for her with buckskin uppers and light tan colored souls you must not think that we had no recreation and that we were a sorrowful set there was never a happier lot of people than these same hard-working pioneers and their families we had joy in our home life and amusements as well as labor music was our greatest pleasure we never tired of it uncle john as everyone called him the old teacher was constantly teaching the children music so it soon came about they could read their music as readily as they could their schoolbooks no christmas ever went by without a christmas tree at which the whole neighborhood joined the fourth of july was never passed without a celebration and we made the presents for the tree if we could not buy them and supplied the musicians reader and orator for the celebration everybody had something to do and a voice in saying what should be done and that very fact made all happy it was 16 miles to our market town stila cum over the roughest kind of road nobody had horse teams at the start we had to go with ox teams we could not make the trip out and back in one day and we did not have money to pay hotel bills we managed in this way we would drive out part of the way and camp the next morning we would drive into town very early do our trading and if possible drive back home the same day if not able to do this we camped on the road again but if the night was not too dark we would reach home that night and oh what an appetite we would have and how bright the fire would be and how joyous the welcome in the cabin home the trees and stumps are all gone now and brick buildings and other good houses occupy much of the land as many people now live in that school district as lived both east and west of the mountains when the territory was created in march of 1853 instead of going in ox teams or even sleds the people have carriages or automobiles they can travel on any of the 18 passenger trains that pass daily through puya loop or on street cars to takoma and also on some of the 20 to 24 freight trains some of which are a third of a mile long such are some of the changes wrought in 50 years since pioneer life began in the puya loop valley end of chapter 20 recording by grace woodward virginia united states