 Welcome to today's vlog, so today what we're going to be working on is a men's haircut. We're going to call this a lived in men's cut because it's a little bit longer than a typical men's haircut and also it has disconnection. So that disconnection is going to help us create texture and a more lived in feel. This is the cut that we did. You can wear it back, you can wear it off to the side, you can part it over. It's got a nice clean interior but then the exterior that falls over it is disconnected so you get a lot of texture, a lot of movement in the cut. So hope you guys are as excited to watch this video as I am to make it. Let's get started with our step by step. Here we go. Alright guys, so the first thing I want to do is introduce a new comb that's on freesaloneducation.com. That is the YS Park 282. It's a flat top comb but I love it for clipper over comb which we're going to use on this video. Also I'm using the 339 comb to section off the mannequin head. So what I do is I follow a curve right along parietal ridge and then back down. I'm following the curve of the head basically and the reason for that is that with men's cuts you want the hair to flow with the head shape so I do a lot of my sectioning based on the head shape so I give it a nice curve feel. So I section off the top from the bottom. That just is an easy way for me to keep those two separate. We're going to cut the top later. And then I do a nice diagonal back line across the back of the head to basically the right corner of the nape just to section it off. Then we're using our Andis Supra ZR Clipper. This is a cordless clipper. It's the most powerful cordless clipper that I've found so I really like that. This is the 282 comb. You'll notice that it's basically the same width as your clipper. Now it is called the flat top comb but that doesn't mean you have to just do flat tops with it. So I like the width of it and I like the smoothness so the clipper passes over it really nice. It doesn't get caught up like some other combs that you might use. So if you're working through taking out a lot of bulk in the hair this is a great comb for that. I also chose the white version of this comb because of the fact that I'm working on dark hair. If I was working on lighter hair there's also a black version of the comb that I would use as well. So there's my clippering on the one side. All I did was took the bulk off, got it to the length about where I want it and then I might go through and do some fine tuning scissor over comb in a little bit. Same thing on the opposite side going through using that clipper over comb. Running the clipper nice and flat over the comb is a key thing in this as well. Something I see hairdressers doing quite a bit when they're doing clipper over comb is that on one side they'll clipper towards the face and on the other side they'll clipper away from the face. I think it's okay to do that but I personally choose to do it the same on both sides because I think no matter what you are pushing a little bit of weight and in this hair cut I want it flowing diagonal back to the back of the head because he's going to wear his hair back in this style. So I just make sure as I'm going through staying consistent with that is really important. This is the blacksmith fit scissor and just to kind of share something with you guys I get a lot of questions about what is a good all around scissor or a good right out of school scissor. Blacksmith fit is great because the price point is there. It's definitely priced lower than the other Mizetani scissors and it's very versatile scissor. What I would recommend is going six inches or above with this scissor because later on I think you'll buy your precision scissor that you spend a lot of money on and I think that'll probably be a shorter scissor. So my recommendation is get a longer scissor to begin with because you can always use that for scissor over comb later or different things. That's what I did. I have a six and a half inch blacksmith fit. So now to get back into the haircut what I'm doing is I'm doing a lot of point cutting and I'm also elevating the hair. So what I did was I tilt his hair forward. I overdirect everything to the previous section and then I do a lot of point cutting to create that texture. So not only are we doing disconnection so we started our disconnection here because I'm choosing a new length that doesn't connect to the bottom. That might freak a lot of people out but it works really well because you can always take more hair off. So in hair cutting for me it's always been about what are you doing with the hair that you leave on the head. So I sometimes will push a little extra length and then play with it later as opposed to cutting it short right away then there's nothing you can do about it. The product I'm using right now is a Palmichel Steady Grip. The thing I like about that is it's got a nice firm hold and it's got a nice shine to it and it'll help hold the hair. I blow dry that bottom portion just to see if I like the shape before I let the top down. I do this in a lot of cuts. A lot of you guys have watched my videos in the past. I like to pre dry on short hair the bottom portion before I go into the top just to see if the shape's working out because then I know going into the top I'm where I want to be. So now what I do is I part it on the left hand side. That's where he's going to part his hair for the style and then I elevate everything straight up in the air. What that's going to do is remove maximum amount of weight. It's also going to still allow that weight to sit right at the low crown and that's where I really wanted to pop out with that disconnection. So we're removing weight from the top which I don't need and then keeping the weight right at that crown area. Still point cutting, still creating that texture and working my way across. The way that I sectioned this out was I basically took it at the division line which is separating the front and the back of the head and then that's where I go through and I cut that. That's usually where the calic area is as well so if they do have a strong calic just make sure you're not doing a ton of short hair cutting there. I think leaving a little extra length in a calic makes the most sense because then you can teach them to blow dry it and the more density and weight and length that they have the easier it is to control a calic. So now I'm going to work down the weak side. This is the part side. Everything's going to come back to the previous until I get to the middle of the head and then I'm going to over direct everything a little more extreme to the middle of the head. That's going to give me that extra length push in the front. So hair cutting to me is kind of like a dance. So as I work up the head shape I can change. I can move positions. So I go up there I'm bringing everything back to the previous walking up to the middle of the head and then as soon as I get to the middle of the head then I over direct everything straight back just to push that length right into the front. If I over direct everything straight back to a stationary guide at the beginning I would have way too much length in the front. So that's why I make those choices. Now we're going to go through everything is brought straight up. Now a lot of people would want to round this corner and connect to the bottom and that's where I want to push you guys to not do that because that's what this cut is all about creating texture and disconnection. So as I work across the top of the head you'll see I'll go to the top angle so you can see the over direction that we're doing but as I work across the top of the head I'm not changing. See right there I'm not shifting to connect with the round. I want that disconnection that hair to fall over what we cut underneath with our clippering. So now I add more steady grip to the top because I hadn't put any on there just to get that hold and I start putting in the style. Now if there's guys watching this that don't do hair that are trying to find a style for themselves and hairdressers that are listening to this it's a good recommendation for your clients. Gel is a thing like a lot of people just put it in their wet hair and leave or go out go to work or do whatever. I personally think gel is just like putting mousse in women's hair so you put the gel in you style you do the blow dry you see how much volume I created in that already and now at the very end I'm going to put another product in which will actually give me more of a wet kind of feel to the cut but the gel is going to give me that hold that I already needed and the other product is just to give it the look. So it's using two products for different purposes. The comb choice I use this is another new comb on freestyleneducation.com that we have it's the 254 it's a barbaring comb it's got a really flexible feel to it and a nice small teeth ridge on one side and it gets a little bit wider on the other. So I like it for getting into those tighter spots. Any men's cut that you need to do some detail work it's a great comb for that. Now the last finishing touch I'm going to do we talked about when sometimes when you create disconnection you want to soften it. So I created that triangle in the back at the very beginning and we cut our length. Now what I want to do is I want to soften it so I take everything horizontally so I keep the shape so I'm still looking at that line that I created but then I go in and I just cut a point cut a nice deep point cut because I want to remove weight from that back disconnection. Now this is the last product that I'm going to put in this is a really kind of one of my top men's products that I like it's the construction paste from Mitch it's a palmatial product for men and it's got a mesh fiber feel to it so it's not super sticky doesn't have an unbelievable hold so it's great for people with thicker hair they're just looking for a little bit of control a little bit of shine and texture so I love this product for that hopefully you guys will too I'm gonna link below if you guys want to check that product out so you can see the texture you can see the disconnection it's not extreme but it has that lived-in feel and that was the goal of the video so I hope you guys like it definitely give me that thumbs up and also make sure you hit the subscribe button because I'd love to have you following everything that I'm doing thanks so much for watching alright guys like always if you liked this haircut then make sure you hit the like button hit the share button share this video in all of your hairdresser outlets that you can I really appreciate that also if you made it this far in the video I love seeing that in the comments as well so let me know that you made it all the way through and remember on freesaloneducation.com you can buy all the tools that I used in this video and also check the links below to see where you can pick up those palmatial products if you're looking for some new hair products as well so thank you guys so much for watching this video always supporting freesaloneducation.com I'll see you guys soon