 Welcome to a new Fresh Plastic video! So in this video I'm going to show you how to build an extrusion pro machine. It's kind of the same principle as the smaller version, except this one is more robust, it has an higher output and it's a bit more efficient. So if you're looking for a small machine that is simpler to build, I would recommend to build the old one. If you're looking for a more advanced machine for production that you can really rely on, build this one. Overall the making of this machine is a bit more complex, requires a bit more skills and advanced tooling with milling and lathe. Now you can fully build this machine yourself. You can buy parts on the bazaar or buy the whole machine there, but in this video we're going to show you step by step how to build it yourself. If you want more information about this machine, like the amperage it uses, the wattage, the kilo-gram per hour output you can find on the website, and in the download kit you can find all the technical drawings, blueprints, the bill of materials, etc. And in this video now Peter Bas is going to show you how to build it. Hi, I'm Peter Bas. I'm going to build next to the Pro and I'm going to show you in nine steps how to build this step by step. So we'll start off with making the bearing body and shaft assembly. Next up is the barrel inlet, the hopper, the barrel, the electronics and the frame. Finally we're going to assemble everything and do a test run to make sure everything runs smoothly. First up we're going to make the bearing body and shaft assembly, which is this part. The main function of this assembly is to support the extrusion forces, which act on the screw during extrusion, which can lead up to several tons. So it has to be really strong and solid. This is probably the most complex part with a lot of lathe work and machining. It consists of four parts we need to make and some purchasing parts to put everything together, like bearings, seals and a clamp. Okay, let's start! I'm going to show you a neat trick to get the whole pattern right on the parts using just a regular drawing without any fancy equipment. Cut out this piece of drawing, tape it on this part. Then using a center punch we will make center punches on the part using the drawing pattern. Now I've completed the bearing housing, the lathe part and the drilling of the holes. So now I'm going to make a radial hole for the grease nipple. This part is all done. I'm going to make the cutout in the transition piece part. The cutout allows for ventilation to the bearing part to make sure the heat from the barrel doesn't leak to the bearing part on the back here and also allows for access to the coupling between the screw and the screw coupling part. You can use a wrench through those holes to tighten and loosen that part. So that's convenient. At this point we have finished the extruder bearing housing and the transition piece. These two parts will form the basic body of the extruder. So we are going to assemble them now by preparing them for welding and press fitting them together using the press on these locating rings. An important thing to look out for while assembling these two parts are the positions of the holes. So the bearing body has the grease nipple here on top and this hole is aligned during the centerline with the grease nipple. So this position should be on top here and as you can see in the drawing the slot in the transition piece should be also in the up-facing position while for assembly and this hole is also aligned in the middle of this slot. So this hole and the hole in the back should be basically aligned with each other like this. It's designed to use a bearing housing. The bearing housing houses two tapered roller bearings and these two tapered roller bearings support the screw or the screw coupling to be exact in the axial and radial direction. This allows the axial forces from extrusion to be supported by these bearings and guided through the extruder itself and allows the drive to be unloaded from axial forces on its own and also the radial forces are supported by these two bearings. I'm going to use this shell. I'm going to press this inside the bearing housing using this tool which is just a pressing tool which will press the bearing inside the housing. So I'm going to use a hydraulic press for this because I have one. You can also use a hammer or some threaded rods to drive them into the bearing housing. Fix up the bearing body assembly. For this we will need space bushing with the o-ring already assembled inside and greased up. We will need the shaft clamp to tighten everything together and we will need a tool which consists of two parts, a tube and a block which will push the tube against these parts to take out the slack in the bearings. I will show you now how to assemble that. So first things first, everything is greased up already. I will push this part over the shaft and this part will push up to the bearing and this face will seal onto this seal so no grease can be pushed out and stay in to the part. Push it all the way down, clean it up a little bit. For the clamp slide it over and now I will use this tool to push this part down and to take out the slack in the bearings when I fix up the coupling shaft into the bearings. So we'll slide this over, this part is just a part with a hole inside and we will have a face for the bolt and this bolt I will use to take out the slack. That's nice and tight. So now to fix everything together I'm just going to tighten up the shaft clamp. Now I can release this again with a fully assembled bearing housing. Don't forget to screw in a grease nipple and fill the bearing housing up with grease just to last everything longer. This is the bearing body and shaft assembly which consists of the shaft which rotates into the bearing body. This is the point for greasing and this part will hold the clamp bushing which will retain the screw. Good job! You finished the most complex part of the whole machine so next up we're going for something a little bit more easy which is the barrel inlet assembly which is this part here underneath the hopper. At this point I'm going to make the barrel flanges. The stock material is laser-cut metal, 8 mm stick. I deburred the edges on the outside and we are going to use the lathe to cut the inner diameter to size and make a chamfer for welding it onto the tube. This is the drawing the inner diameter. I think a good thing to know is it has to be a light press fit onto the tube. So it says fit here but it's good to check the outside diameter of the tube and make sure it's a few hundreds of millimeters undersized compared to the tube. I'm going to measure out the lengths for the inlet. At this point we finished the three parts for the barrel inlet and now we are going to assemble them according to this drawing the same way. The good thing to know is how to align the holes compared to the inlet. They should be according to the drawing. If you don't do that on a proper way then the chance is that the hopper won't be vertically but under an angle which would look ridiculous. So that's something to keep in mind like the holes also in both of the flanges should be aligned as well and the hole compared to the inlet should be in a right facing position so aligned here. Both these flanges will be press together the long side will be on top this side will go onto the long side like this and the other flange will be on the other side and it will be welded these faces will be welded together and then the end we will flatten this side to make sure it's square compared to the barrel. Press fit the small flange onto the barrel inlet. This is the barrel inlet assembly this part will be mounted to the bearing body this is the part where the granules will go inside the barrel and this is where the barrel will be mounted. That's the barrel inlet done so next up I'm going to make the barrel. The barrel is a heated tube where the screw rotates inside of causing friction and thereby melting the plastic. Here I have the screw from the small extruder and here I have the screw which we designed for the extruder pro. So as you can see it's a lot longer and the diameter is a bit bigger and we optimised the screw geometry in such a way that it is kind of multipurpose and able to extrude a good output of the most common polymers we can find. So the screw will pump the multi-plastic through a nozzle. We made this extruder with the internal one inch pipe thread in where you can screw different kind of nozzle attachments to connect different kind of molds to make different kind of products. So let's make that. We need to assemble and weld up the barrel. The barrel consists of three parts the barrel tube which is this part it is machined down to length it then has two chamfers on both side which are for welding. One side the nozzle side will get this barrel end piece it has an internal pipe thread one inch gas thread and the other side is a locating ring which will sit inside the barrel for positioning and I will tag weld this here inside this cutter and I will hold it into place with the threaded rod and then weld it all around. As you can see the barrel end piece has this flat face in the end for the the nozzle itself is also for sealing purposes so it's pretty important to be flat and square. The other side will get this flange with the true holes which will be assembled onto the barrel inlet later on. The inside of the flange is already machined to size to have a small a light press fit onto the barrel and it has a chamfer this is also a chamfer I'm going to fill that up with welding and then square it up afterwards under the lathe again. This is the barrel assembly which consists of the flange the tube and the barrel end piece. Next I'm going to make the motor adapter which connects the whole extruder to the motor. We designed it to be an inline part so all the forces will go through the motor and the extruder itself which makes this the whole extruder stand alone unit therefore we don't have to reinforce the frame anymore. The motor adapter consists of three parts you will need to check the flange on the motor side for the hole pattern before your laser cut it. Therefore you will need to check the centering ring diameter and the hole pattern of this motor to see if it fits your extruder. Right let's make it. The motor adapter assembly with the extruder phasing side and the motor phasing side. So next we're going to make the hopper it's kind of a basic thing so you can freestyle it a bit here. We're going to make it a cone shape so it has a good even distribution inside of the the barrel inlet and we are going to clamp it onto the barrel inlet using two clamps. This is the insulated hopper assembly with the insulation here and this will sit on top of the barrel inlet like this. Right that's the mechanical part done next up we're going to do the electronics which is this black box over here. So it has a frequency drive to control the motor speed from the screw and it has three temperature controllers to control the temperature in three different zones of the barrel. This helps us to control the melting process during extrusion. You can make it yourself or use the laser cut files. I'm not going to go into too much detail about the wiring up you can check the schematics in the download kit for more instructions about that. This is an overview of the electronical box parts. Right now I will measure up the holes to fit the heat sinks onto the display. This will be the inside of the electronical box. Okay we will do the electronics now. For this we will need the electronic box with space for the temperature controllers and the frequency drive display. We will need the electrical band heaters for around the barrel. We will need thermocouples. Now we'll use these clamping type thermocouples which are really convenient for round barrels. Three temperature controllers to control the temperature of the of the barrel during operation. We will need a frequency drive to control the motor speed during extrusion. To switch everything on and off we will need a main on off switch. An emergency stop in case of an emergency. A plug of course to feed power to all of the connect of all of the electrics and we will need cables from the plug to the electrical box and to the motor. And we will need some installation cable along with some connectors to connect all the wires together inside the box. So that's about everything so I'm going to do the electronics now. This is the finished box with all the electronics. Next up is the frame. It's pretty straightforward if you made all the other parts before here then this would be a breeze to go through. So we made all the parts we made all the sub-assemblies and now we're going to make one proper machine from it. We start off by connecting the bearing body and shaft assembly to the motor adapter. Then we will install the screw with the clamp bushing. Then we'll slide over the barrel inlet assembly and we will slide over the barrel and the final extruder assembly will be slid in the motor and we will tighten everything afterwards. Next up I'm going to put it upright to make sure that everything is clean and decreased. This is the clamp bushing. I will use this to clamp the screw into the coupling shaft. I'm going to do this before I assemble the bearing inlet into the bearing body because now I have easy access to the bolts. It consists of two parts with the conical face in between. When I tighten these bolts the conical face makes in this side expand. Expanding it will make a tight fit between the the shaft and the hub thereby allowing it to transfer a lot of torque to the bottom. Right now I want to tighten the bolts for the clamp bushing to specify torque to make sure it's tight. To do that and to prevent it from turning I'm going to slide it into the motor using the key. Now I'll slide over the barrel inlet. The hole here should face the grease nipple here and I will use 20 millimeter bolts for this one. Next up I'm going to slide over the barrel. I'm going to use 16 millimeter bolts for that. Now this is all tightened up. The final thing is to install the extruder into the motor. You see? Right now I greased up the shaft with copper grease to prevent it from seizing into the motor and I prepared a few bolts to tighten the motor adapter into the motor with some grease. The body of the motor is aluminium and steel will corrode if we don't put grease between it. Now I will assemble it with the barrel inlet facing up of course. Now we tightened up everything and finished installing the extruder on the motor. So now we are going to install the whole extruder on the frame. Extruder on the frame. Next up I'm going to fix the subframe here for the joint box and I'm going to fix the electronic box itself into the frame. Now we are going to mount the electronic box and for that I'm going to need some help. Now we are going to connect all the electronics to the extruder. Okay we installed all the heaters and the turbo couples. Now I'm going to connect the motor. That's the motor connected. Now I'm going to install the hopper. So now the machine is all done. One thing I forgot to mention. To paint everything. Small detail. So now I'm going to show you how to run and operate this machine. We have the motor and the heaters and this display here will control the motor speed and these three controllers here will control the three different zones of the extruder. This is the main switch to switch everything on and off and this is an emergency stop for when everything blows up. You just press it like this. So let's try it out. First we're going to switch on the machine and then we set the temperatures to the required level. Before we turn on the motor we have to make sure that the temperature are all up to the set level just to make sure that all the plastic inside the barrel is molten. So it's up to the required level now. I'm going to start up the motor. Now throw in some plastic. It works. When it comes to maintenance from the machine just every now and then make sure that all the heaters are still working and the grease nipple on this position just pump a little bit of grease inside of there every once every month. So that was it for this video. Go to our website to find all the information and you can also find there the download kit to download all the CAD files, blueprints, instructions and make sure to visit our how-tos to show hacks, improvements and tweaks made from this machine. And now I would advise to watch the next video where you can see what you can actually make with this machine. Bricks, beams, small t profiles or make massive eye profiles. Oh before you go we just want to let you know that precious plastic runs in the supports and funds of people just like you. Everything we develop here is posted online for free open source so that people from all over the world can work on the plastic waste problem. If you're willing and able to help please visit support.preciousplastic.com to make a donation or find another way you can help us.