 IGP training or it used to be a Shutsun or IPO, same thing, but the most difficult exercise and the longest exercise that we have in obedience in this sport is healing and it's attentive healing. The dog has to be very attentive to the handler during the healing position. Today we're going to start teaching my dog. I'm going to start teaching at us the first basics of this and you probably, if you're googling this exercise, you probably see a variety of options, how people train their dogs for attentive healing. Usually what I see online is people tend to feed the dog into the position and move along with this. I prefer to explain to the dog what I want, explain to the dog the position, so the dog understands that the position is next to me and he has to look at me rather than try to develop muscle memory, especially at the beginning. And I achieve this with two exercises. One exercise is lower drive, another exercise is higher drive. Lower drive obviously is with food and higher drive is with toy. And both exercises, the goal is to explain to the dog, see he's already doing it, because I've worked with him a little bit. To explain to the dog if you want to get anything from me, you need to look at me just like he's doing it right now. We've tried it a little bit before I start recording this video because I wanted to make sure that the dog understands. Now I'm going to show it to you. So first exercise is with food and what I'm going to do is that I'm going to sit the dog and then I'm going to position myself next to the dog and then I'll start rewarding every time when he looks at me. And that way the dog learns that if he needs anything for any reason he needs to start looking at me and that's the first kind of position and that's the first exercise. And then later on you'll see the second exercise with toys that's more, hey no, it's when I'm playing with the dog and it's not for the positioning but it's rather to kind of make sure that the dog understands that it applies this exercise, this expression of him looking at me applies to everything even when we play a game. And so eventually all my dogs learn that whenever we're doing, even if we're hiking, if they really want something from me they need to stare at me and so I try to do it in the right of situations and you'll see how I'm doing this. What I want to also mention is that the dog is wearing two colors today. One is flat. Flat is for me to kind of help position him because I don't want it to be too intrusive on the dog and then another one is the choke chain and I will only use it if I decide to use leash with him if he needs help then I'm going to use leash on the choke chain. Okay? All right. You ready? You ready to start? What? I'm going to do probably this way. Okay? Be sure that he distinctively looks at me and I can count one, two, three before I reward. Yes. When I start I simply feed him and then I move the hand away and that's how I guide him and you know that I have guide words and so whenever he looks away I say uh-uh and when he does it correctly I say good. Okay? So good, uh-uh, good, uh-uh, good. Yeah? Good. Yes. It's right there. Good boy. So as you can see, we only tried for a few minutes before we started the video and he figured out very quickly that he needs to look at me. So I'm going to try once again before we go on to high drive exercise. Sit. Good. Uh-uh. Good. Uh-uh. And as you see I try to put my hand from the top not from the bottom because I need to keep looking up. See? From this position. Good boy. Uh-uh. Uh-uh. Uh-uh. Atos? No. Uh-uh. Good. See for things like this I need leash. I'm not going to do this now. Come on. Come on. It's not. Come on. Good. No. No. Sit. I want to make sure I'm in the correct position to the dog so the dog learns this exercise correctly. The position is important here as well as the dog looking at me all the time. Good. So even if I'm talking now and I'm not looking straight in his eyes he's still doing it correctly. He's not nudging me because I'm not rewarding him. So that was not fair on my part because it's his first time, first day doing this and I shouldn't extend it for too long. Good. So that's pretty much how I train the dog in the position to look at me. Now I'm going to show you a fun exercise that Bill that he likes. Come on. And so in this exercise he's focused on the toy but then I lower the toy and I won't toss it unless he looks up at me. You can see how I did this. As soon as he looks up I give him a marker. Good. He couldn't figure out why he can't get the toy so eventually he looks up. Oh, very smart dog. And so I just want to tell you, wait. So when you start and don't provoke dog too much at the beginning just lower the toy and make sure the dog looks at you. If the dog doesn't look at you what I do is I just blow at them or I click my tongue so they look up and as soon as they look up I mark it. Make sure that I don't toss it right that second when he looks up because I want to make sure he's looking at me very attentively, not just trying to move the head and then with the eyes looking at the toy they do this sometimes. Yes. So you start by just lowering it and then you can even tap the dog so they can look at you. Good. Yes. Once they figure it out, once they know then you make it more difficult. And then you take toys that are higher drive for them that they won't even more and you try to really, really agitate the dog with the toy. Good boy. Okay. You want that one? Okay. We'll try with that one. Good. Good boy. Head to training.