 That works. New, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new. Just engineering thing doesn't work out. There's always your singing career. Lady, what is this? The baby loves my singing. What is this? Somebody here. Okay, we've got the tiniest LEDs known to man. They're coming to pack a 50 because they are so small. It's just one millimeter by one millimeter, neopixel LEDs. But a photographer is great at macro photography. Look at this beautiful photo. That's nice. You can see the little bonded LED in the green, red, and blue dies. They are neopixels. So on the bottom, there's four pads. And you provide power, ground, did in, did out. You can chain them. They're extremely tiny. They're fairly bright. They draw five milliamps per. I will say, you know, having used these, if you're going to place a ton of them, like dozens on a PCB, you do have to provide some heat sinking somehow. So like the back should be a copper ground plane that tries to dissipate some of that heat away because, you know, especially if you're powering them from five volts, you're drawing five volts and 50 milliamps for all the LEDs. And before you know it, the density makes them heat up quite a bit. But they're tiny and they're cute. And we have them in a strip, pet tape strip of 50 pieces. Not hand solderable. I would use either hot plate or hot air. But even hot air is tough because, again, they're so small. They'll blow away. Next up, a little handy USB switch. We were going to use this for a project. You have one USB port and you have two devices. And you want to switch between two different devices. Like what would connect to the USB port as a peripheral? You want a max. So this is what it is. So if you go to the first photo. So on the top and the bottom of the USB host connection. So it's ground D minus D plus and five volts. And there's a USB C port with the 5.1 K. Resistors required to kind of make it a standard USB 2.0 port. And then by default, port one is connected. But then if you flip, I think S is pulled low by default. If you pull it high, port two is connected. And then if you pull it low, port one is connected. You flip back and forth as much as you want. There's a switch inside a little chip in the middle that is designed for USB to 480 mega bit per second speed. So it can be used with video devices and high speed USB devices. It doesn't cut power, which is a pro or con, just something to watch out for some. That's a great feature. This is not what I want. Yeah, it depends. If you want to cut the power, this is not it. It will switch only the data lines, which means your devices stay powered, but they have to know that they're being re enumerated. And I will say that some microcontrollers, depending on the USB stack will not re enumerate. So if you are, you know, I've sound like, you know, I switched like a FTDI chip and the USB stick, like a key, data key. Those worked fine because you recognize, oh, the data lines went away and then they came back and they re enumerated and came on. But like, you know, I think I had like a trinket and it didn't. So what you'll want to do is if you have a microcontroller and you're running your own USB stack, either add code to detect that you've lost USB connection and re enumerate, or you'll want to also connect that like the S pin or whatever that's controlling the S pin, also reset the microcontroller to tell it, hey, I want you to kick again, start over and try re enumerating USB because a lot of them, you know, only will they try the USB connection at the beginning. Again, for microcontrollers, for a lot of like, your mice, keyboard, you know, USB serial adapter, they'll need to be fine because they're all using hard coded USB interfaces that will reconnect when the data resets. So maybe handy. It's not a hub. It's a switch. One or the other. Okay. And the start of the show, besides you, LiData, our team, our customers, our community, everyone who does open source hardware and share things, it is. This QTPS 61040 booster. I use this chip in a lot of our OLED and TFT displays when I have to generate a 12 volt signal or even higher. It's adjustable. The chip is adjustable. This breakout is not. Again, these are for OLEDs. Sometimes if I have, you know, a lot of LEDs in a row, it's not a very powerful booster. You're only going to get like 40, 50 milliamps. Maybe a little bit more if you give it five volts and you only give it three, like 2.8, whatever, to six volts input. It'll boost up to 12 volts. And sorry, the input is two to six volts. Output is 12 volts. Again, you know, 40 to 80 milliamps or so. Not very powerful, but it's inexpensive and small and simple. And, you know, again, when you don't need a lot of current. For example, I talked about high voltage programming microcontrollers earlier. Sometimes you just need a 12 volt signal on the reset line to tell it, hey, you know, I'm putting you into this high voltage programming mode. I want you to kick out of whatever, you know, set up your end and permit me to do high voltage programming or your programming EEPROM. And you need to power it from 12 volts, but you don't need more than 50 milliamps. This will work just fine. It's a lot easier than getting your own separate 12 volt power supply. It's a little handy mini booster. Again, I use this chip a lot to replace the fan 5331, which is no longer made. I think we chatted about this on a great search because I need to find a replacement. So I want to use this all the time because I'm always like, I need 12 volts for something. And this board will supply. And that is new products.