 This video is brought to you in part by TrueTechTools. Quality tools, essential support. All right guys, so we have us a new heating call here. We got one unit that's too hot and one that's not hot enough. So let's get our stuff ready to go here. See if we can knock it all out the door like it usually happens. I think we can probably get rid of this. I think air conditioning season's pretty much over. It's uh 17 this morning and today it's about 20 something. So now next week it'll be 49 for a high. But hey, welcome to Ohio. All right, so I just got a rundown on it. So K1 here is the kitchen. It's now at 70. It's no longer acting up. We've checked our occupied heat which is 68, unoccupied heat 60, cooling 64 and unoccupied 76. We went in there and checked the scheduling. Scheduling was fine. So what's really wild here is the fact that it was up to 80 and knew that it was too hot and then all of a sudden it started cooling. The play area here is 54 degrees. It knows it's not working right. It's calling for heat. So let's go up on the roof and see what we can find out. Luckily they got hatch way here. So let's go on up here and see what we got. Let's go ahead and close this back up because that'll let crap loads of heat out. That there is concerning. Instead of welding the aluminum or galvanized, they just glued the, I don't know what they did. Anyhow, let's go over here and look. I can see already the equipment's a little dirty here in there. Yeah, over here I would suspect from what I was seeing downstairs, this is the playland area. Yeah, I'm where you think I'm at. There's a bunch of them that we fill in when they can't get to it. Otherwise they take care of a lot of stuff. If they can't get to it, then we will. So good old Lennox. So we do have a code in here. It is a 58 of some sort. Let's see if we can figure that out. Let's go ahead and take the old backpack off which makes it easy to go up the stairs. This is a lot smaller than what my other backpack was from Vito. This is kind of nice because you can see how thin it is and the straps come off. So if I get tired of it and don't want to do it no more, it's a lot like the MCT which is what I liked. Let's go ahead and get started here. But TrueTech Tools, Survival, 8% off. Check them out. MB5B. So we've got like I said 58 code. So 58 is down here and that is Gas Bob 1 not energized two minutes after thermostat and demand. So they actually got current sensing, voltage sensing. Oh look at that. There's the G76 controller. That piece of junk has got all kinds of issues with it. What's bad is I no longer keep those kind of controls on my truck like I used to when I worked for another company. You can see they're CNW2 and W1. Let's come down here and look at this which two-stage gas valve, one ignition module, nasty and dirty. Check rollout. It's not tripped. Let's go ahead and check our belt here. It's got the wiggle jiggle. Yeah, it's loose. That's nice. That's always good. All right. Well, let's go ahead and kill the power to it. Well, it'd been nice to be able to kill the power to it. Yeah, every optional on that model. Okay, so where's the disconnect box? Yeah, you gotta unplug the extension cord. What's the deal here? So we're kind of busy today. Don't really have a lot of time for foolishness like this. Let's take a look at the filter, see how bad those are. Boy, that thing looks horrible. I can't imagine why. This is 07. So 2017 would have been 10 years. 17 years old. It's nice and tight. Wow, that is terrific. Let me see if I can take this apart. So this is a really, really nice thing you got here. You got, it looks like a split bolt with a crap load of tape around it, not marked with green. Fantastic, buddy. Fantastic. If we want to shut her down, what we can do, we can pull that off of the low voltage. That's a load size. That's 24 volts. It's one of them things where you know what, you're going to play dirty with the disconnect box. I'm playing dirty with the disconnection. So that is loose as a goose. That is working because it's a clog belt. So we'll tighten that up and then we'll restart it and we'll see where we're at. Going over here, this is going to be the dining room area. That's kitchen. I suppose there's another kitchen. So the best of my knowledge, just got to be it, unless they've got something on the ground, which they don't think they do. No, there's no way. We ended up loosening that up and this one up. The lock nut undid it. Tighten this up, tighten her up. She's tightened up. Belts close enough for government work. That should have been done when it's summertime. Other than that, it appears to be close. I don't hear squeaking, but visually it looks like it might be off by touch. We could always mark it for later and go from there on that. Got the panel back together. Let's go ahead and reapply a little voltage to this thing. May have to reset it on the control. We could look at the infamous Linux flame sensor issues that they have. These do not sense flame with a squat diddly dang. Right there is that, which again probably wouldn't be a bad idea to look at the heat exchangers. Motor sounds a lot better. Right now we're under just the G call. Tell you what, I'm not wasting any more time. Let's go ahead and look at the heat exchanger real quick. Okay, let's get a good peek on this. Also gives us a chance to look down there and see that if it has open, which everything looks to be open. Looking at the heat exchanger, it must have been replaced at least once or two or three times. So we're good there on that. Looking at the bottom. Got a little bit on the seam there. Got a little bit of seamage there starting to rust a little bit. Nothing split open, but you can see moisture starting to come through on some of the seams. I am going to definitely note on that that it's got to be watched. This here where they've got restriction on the airflow. That's going to allow that pipe to get a lot hotter, which is going to cause it to potentially crack. Yeah, let's watch that. Make sure that that's not got flame disturbances. But for right now, let's get it running. If it doesn't have this flame disturbances, we'll be sure to put on there that it's highly recommended that it be thoroughly inspected, blah, blah, blah. Cover your McMuffin and that way you're safe. Your company's safe. Everything's safe. People are safe. Customers safe. Got the panel back on. These gloves are the heavy duty. These I've said this in my old videos, but this is the first winter of 2023 going into 24. These work really good and surprisingly as floppy as they are, you can literally work in them, which is really odd. But Jersey's always been that way. Let's go ahead and clean this flame sensor. That has always been an issue with Linux from day one, going all the way back to mid 90s. I got this new one here. This one don't have the 1116. It has the 916 instead. Got this on my NASA trip, which I'm working on that video. It was a good trip. Got to meet a good guy named Scott, who works in her HVAC department. And he showed me all around the clean room, stuff like that. So I've got some awesome video on that. Just, it's a lot of time that I need to narrow it down with editing. So let's go ahead and clean that and make sure it's ceramics not broke, which is the only reason why you should have to replace a flame sensor. Yeah guys, it's pretty cold out here. Just barely, I think 20. Things I do for you guys. Purge motor just came on. Let's watch and see what happens down here. See if it gets any clickety clicks. Might be sparking, but I don't think it is. I think our control module took a poop. That module right there, that blue one, was total garbage. I don't know if there's much I'm going to be able to do with that right now. They put that in about the best spot possible for you to be able to get right in there and to work on it. Now how are you supposed to unplug it, re-plug it? You just can't. Okay, what we're going to do, we're going to cheat a little bit here. We're going to go from the spark, from there right to that copper, minor, and it should arc right to it. No, it's not going to blow a hole through it. And if you're worried about the gas, we can go ahead and turn that off. That way it's all safe. There we go. There's G. There's this capacitor, just like that last video, just kind of hanging in there. There it goes. Okay, we're going to see if I can get some spark out of this thing. It should tell us what the purge is. The thought process behind this is to get it really close to something that's grounded. We want to make sure that it's not working. We're just going to have to dig it out of there. All right, so we got this loosened up and got it out of there. Little light is on right now. As you can see, it's not easy to see where I'm looking at, but we're trying to hear if it's firing or not, and it's really hard to tell. I think I hear some static, but turn this on. It's just really not in a good spot to do much of anything. So we're going to try to hook our meter on this to see if we can measure anything going on here. My thing was I figured the spark would probably be what failed first. Probably just do amperol. That would tell us if we're getting power to it. When this fails out, it will blink. LED lights blinking. One blanky blank. And retry period. I thought I was going to have to ground it, but I don't need to ground it. They literally ran a ground to it, which is kind of unusual for them. I think the white wire there is my ground for my gas valve. Yeah, it is. The main valve has a white. Yeah, there's W1. So we're on W1. Let's see if this thing will do a retry here. We'll go ahead and put it on max. That way if we miss it, it'll catch it. Three trials, eight second trial, 30 second pre-perge, five minute retry. Power's a red one, so we can reset the power. Let's go ahead and reset the power on it. I'm going to do that. Can't record it and do it all at the same time. 30 second pre-perge. So you've got 30 seconds before it's going to try. So in 30 seconds here, it should try. You should see some clickage on that amp meter. I mean face it. We don't get spark. We're probably not going to get the gas valve either. Spark usually the high voltage discharge air. You're going to have failure on that faster than anything. That's really good on my meter. It's been 30 seconds. Nothing's happened. Let's go ahead and check voltage. Gray is common. Brown is high. It's interesting to use a two-stage gas valve with a single-stage ignition, so they must be doing it all through the controller up there, honest to goodness. Let's see if anything happens here. Let me pull that ignition wire off. You can do it. Let's go ahead and cancel the gas there. We'll see if it sparks to the ground here. Obviously you want your gas off. You want the power disconnected from the valve. You don't want to see anything bad happen here. Oh, there's a weak, weak spark air. Holy cow, that is weak. I see an itty-bitty spark. All right, the control is bad. All right, here's my thought process. I'm trying to find out which unit had stuck on. You come over to these here and these have got two separate burner sections and you're looking inside here and you're like, maybe I can steal a control module out of one of these. This has got the older control modules. This one has things disconnected, leak in the indoor or outdoor coil. I'm not really sure. We've got a leak and you're looking at some of the other stuff that's just kind of dangling there with the wire tie. It's like, what in the world? You're like, all right, well, let's go look at some of this other unit. Maybe we can get a controller out of one of these other ones, too. You come over here and here's the newest version of that. That's a fin wall and there's the same one we got, which it's got an X on it, so I don't know if that means it's no good, but similar situation, but here's what's funny. It's 20 degrees off-site, okay? We got a condenser fan motor running. Now, I don't think the air conditioning running, I think it's just a contact or sticking or something, but the heat's not running. That's a definite. Yeah, none of the compressors are running and neither is any of the heat and heat looks horrible. Look at that burn section. Air looks horrible. Just horrible. And I'm not sure if this is K1 because I'm looking around trying to find designations on the units, but they don't have any. What in the world? Nothing. Nothing. Now, I know that the manager that has already left he knew where everything was at, but it was one of these two. So, anyhow, my thought process is do we just go ahead and steal one of these controls? I think I'm going to. This is the kitchen area. Generally doesn't need heat. You can see right there where Y1, Y2. So, chances are, I bet the condenser doesn't work. The condenser's got exhaust system on it. It's nasty as all get out. Yeah, this thing's all broken up and cheese. Yeah. So far as the condenser, all right, so this thing's being a wacky. So, we go over here, recall. Flip it over, recall, hit the button. It says 88. Does not say zero. Hit it again. I've already hit and held it to erase it. It says 88. So, we turn recall back off. Come over here. Now, even though it's 88.8, possible problem with the ECO chip. Control will operate on ECTO settings. That's what we got going on there. You can go for temperature here, see what the temp is. Okay, there's temp. See if it reads temp right. Yeah. Not reading temperature correctly either. No. And if we can go to test, turn on test while we're at it. Not working either. I have a feeling this board might be going bad. Yeah, not good. So, these wires say power since and some other stuff. And I went ahead and took pictures of it. Of with my camera, phone. Let's just go ahead and swap this out. I think it's bad anyway. Just the fact that was replaced. Let's go ahead and see if it'll work. So, the biggest problem I see with this is the ignition wire. Super stupid short. So, when you get it loosened up to that point there, you can kind of jump it over to the other. These are the same units. Let's go ahead and just swap wires here. See how it does. Let's turn on this disconnect box. Okay, let's give it a sec. See what happens. Purge motor just came on. I heard a click. There it goes. I'm not totally crazy, huh? That's what it was. Go figure, right? That gets some heat. We are running on W1. So, basically what it's doing, that's going down there. Turning on the main valve. Probably most likely for low. This fluctuates to the high. If we come down here and look at this, it probably will tell you exactly what I just said. These discombatics are some of the worst in the industry. So, it's nearly impossible to read it. So, there's W2 coming across. Goes to a plug, another plug. And then, theoretically, it looks like it gets lost right there at number five. W2 may come up and go over to another jumper that goes to some jumpers and pressure switches. And the thing is, the controller is bad. This one works. We'll go ahead and remount that back up. We'll give them a new controller. Put now heat. There we go. So, now far as the other one over there, I'm going to go downstairs and see if it's okay or not. If it's still not problematic. I guess we'll catch it when we come back. There's W2. Now we're kicking out some more heat. Yup. So, I'll go ahead and give them a lot on the serial number of this thing and then that there and they can cross it over. I'm going to even give them a picture of the new one. All right. So, I went ahead and just copied her back over to it. We've got to hook back up. That way, if I lose the picture, we can just swap it out. Go ahead and write bad on this thing. Let's call this done here on this one. So, on this one here with the air conditioning running, when Y2 is calling, that usually forces mechanical cooling on. And with it being 26 degrees out, the snap discs would be shutting down the compressors. And that's the reason why it's running the air conditioners, but not really running the compressor. GoPro just keeps shutting off. Anyhow, let's get this module order and get out off the roof. Let's go downstairs. Okay, playing a play land out there. Set point 66. So, it looks like 66 is where the heat's set at. You know what? The kids are playing out there, whatever. So, let's go ahead and lock this thing back up. Just check scheduling on it. I think seven o'clock area shuts off, which makes sense. Why are your kids out past seven? Whatever. You know? So, and it's that cooler because they're playing. So, you don't want them super hot. Good to go on that. K176, which is probably air conditioning is my, it's on cooling. K2 is at 66 and it's calling for heat. And, like I said, it's just throwing its butt off. Dining room one set for 68. Set point 68. At this point, I don't see anything wrong. Occupied heat 68. Occupied cool 74. Run schedule. It's running for cooling. Fan set to on. So, everything looks to be pretty good. All right. So, all this area out here is nice and warm. I mean, it says 50-something, but I can feel the pump and the heat out. You can see the area that we're taking care of. It's fairly high ceilings and this little area here. The sensors are located over here on the wall, which we've got heat pumping out here on these overhead register area. All right, guys. So, I just read through the task again. K1's too warm. It's too warm because the air conditioner's not keeping it up. Sorry. It's not running real well at 20 degrees, 25 degrees out. I'm pretty sure he said it was going into cooling. I don't know. The guy's gone now. Either way, it's pretty obvious. It was too warm. The air conditioner wasn't overcoming the kitchen heat and the economizer looks like it's about done had it. The top section's not opening. The dampers are about shot. Everything in the whole thing is about shot. All right, guys. So, I've been going through the video here and going over some of the things that I might have missed. So, what I didn't document was that I had undone the economizer motor and opened it up about three to four inches to help suck the outside air in. Going through the video and looking through some of the manuals for the system now that, you know, I'm not on the roof. I was able to read up on how some of the system works. From what I see, it looks to me like we definitely have some bad sensors or potentially a bad control board, which that control board from what I'm hearing may not be available. So, because of back order supply issues, whatever excuse they want to use. So, we need to go back anyhow with the control module and I plan on spending a little more time on it. But to get this video produced now to you guys, I'm going to go ahead and just end the video here. But I do appreciate you guys taking the time to watch the video and until next time, we'll catch you guys on the next one later.