 So you got an Ender 5 Plus but then you saw the Ender 5 Pro. It had a silent board, better PTFE tubing, the metal extruder and a magnetic build plate. Well, I tell you what, we can do that with the Ender 5 Plus now. Today, we're gonna create an Ender 5 Plus Pro. My name's Jim and this is the Edge of Tech. So recently I debuted the Ender 5 Pro and a lot of people thought it was the Ender 5 Plus with a bunch of features, but that's not true. It was actually a base Ender 5 with some upgraded features, including Capricorn tubing for the PTFE. It had a magnetic build plate and it had that Creality 115 silent board that made it completely silent with the exception of that fan noise. Well, I tell you what, Creality just released the silent board for the Ender 5 Plus and I have it right here. Thanks to Creality for sending this board over. We're gonna turn this Ender 5 Plus into an Ender 5 Plus Pro. We're gonna add brand new tough tubing from TH3D, which I prefer over Capricorn. If you can only get Capricorn, that's okay. Both links will be in the description below. We're gonna add brand new Bowden couplers. We're gonna add the metal extruder. We're gonna add the silent board from Creality. It is the same board with the silent drivers just like they did in the 115 silent board for the Ender 5 Pro and Ender 3s. Also, we're gonna add this amazing easy flex plate system from TH3D that is the perfect size for our Ender 5 Plus. This includes the magnet and the flex plate with PEI on it so we'll be able to flex our prints right off when we're done. Not that I don't like the glass that came on this, but I really love the flex systems. And TH3D makes some of the best flex systems I've tested and the best prices as well. So without further ado, I think we should get rocking on this. Let's do it. So the first thing we're gonna do is heat up your printer and make sure you pull the filament out of the hot end. I've already done that, so I don't have to worry about that part, but I wanted to throw that out there. We do need to remove the filament completely before we proceed. We're gonna start out with the easiest, in my opinion, of upgrades and we're gonna replace the bed. So what you wanna do is take all your clips off of the bed here, take your glass plate off. That leaves you with just the bare aluminum build plate here. Then what we wanna do is take your magnet from TH3D, which is right here, just peel back the paper just like that. So just the corner is there. We're gonna flip that around. So we are gonna flip that around. Make sure your paper's folded backwards. Make sure everything lines up around the sides. When you're confident that everything lines up around your sides, then push that corner down. Nope, I missed. So it is a little bit forgiving. So push that corner down like that and just work it in so it's nice and sticky. All the way out to that corner. And it'll be nice and flat. Then reach underneath and grab that flap that you pulled and just pull out a little bit. And then from the top, all you have to do is work it in like this. So just keep doing that. What you're gonna do is pull a little bit, work it across, pull a little bit, work it across. If you see a bubble, you can work it out a little bit by raising a little. But if you do it like this, you shouldn't get any bubbles. When you're all done, you end up with a really nice magnet right on the bed. And this is some real nice thick magnet, really good 3M adhesive in the back of it. You take your sheet, you drop it on like this and now you have a magnetic build plate with the PEI surface, super easy to take off. And that, in my opinion, is better than glass. For the next thing we're gonna do is replace our plastic extruder here with a brand new metal one. And the one I'm gonna use today is the red metal one from Creality. And to start, we're gonna pull down our coupler and pull out our Bowdoin tube. That's why we took our filament out earlier. Then what you wanna do is come in and take off this screw right here. So when you get that far, hold your hand down here, everything will come out and your spring, oh, and your spring will come out or drop on the floor. Take out these three bolts here. But you gotta be careful because once you do this, you are gonna lose the motor off the back. So I'm gonna loosen up a couple of them here and then I'm gonna move around to the back of the machine and take this off so I can hold it. So here's where we gotta be careful. I'm down to one last bolt and as you can see, my stepper motor's pretty loose here. So I'm going to hold onto the stepper motor here and turn out that last bolt, pull the extruder off and set it aside. Then take your stepper motor out and set it either down on the bottom or on your plate, whatever you feel comfortable with doing. What's really nice is this plate here, which houses the filament runout sensor stays in place so that's always gonna be there. So when we're gonna put this back together, it's gonna be identical to the one we just took off. If you look at that one, you can see how it all goes back together but you'll need your plate, your arm. You'll need one of the beveled screws like this, the littler ones. You'll need two of the capped ones. One of the shorter, well, it's the only one, it's the shorter one that's gonna be used for our pulley which is right here and you're gonna use this little lock washer on that. You need the sleeve, the gear, the spring and the very long screw right here and that's it. First thing we can do is put our pulley together. All right, so you got your arm, your lock washer on there, your shorter of the tall cap screws and your pulley, just like that. That just screws down right here in your arm. So you take your allen wrench and tighten that down. The next thing we need to do is swap out our gear. So loosen these two grub screws. Once you get it loose, the gear should slide off and that's your old gear. Take the new gear, it's gonna go on and you may have to loosen the grub screws. This right here is your flat surface of the shaft. So loosen your two grub screws and slide it down and at this point, I'm only gonna go about halfway because we don't know exactly where we're gonna sit yet. So I'm gonna tighten those in just so they're snug so this thing doesn't move but we're gonna adjust it again later. The next thing we're gonna do is put the base plate back on and attach it to our stepper driver. So the stepper driver should go back on and the cord should be out, it'll be out the right side if you're facing towards me or since I'm facing towards you, it'd be out my left side. Either way, the cord should go that way. Then take one of the small screws, put that over and take one of these small cap screws here and find the hole and just bring it in and not all the way tight but just enough to hold it. Then we're gonna take another screw and we're gonna go in right up here on the other side. You can actually tighten that one and you can go back and tighten that one. So those two are tight. This one down here requires the use of the beveled screw that came with the kit. The beveled screw has a bevel on it right here and you're just gonna take that, you're gonna put it in there just like the other ones and screw it on in there and you can tighten this one down as well. Now what we need to do is take our arm and our red sleeve, put the red sleeve in, put the long screw through it and we're gonna install the arm. Arm is gonna go down here like so. Let me just twist it so you can see this. So that's how it looks. So you have your long screw here through the sleeve, through the arm this way. Now what you wanna do is take one of these cap screws here and just screw it in to the arm until it stops. It only can go so far and that's as far as it'll go. Then you wanna take one of the other cap screws and put it down in the top here. So that'll go through the top and it'll come down through this like this. But before you get all the way through, we need to take our spring, put our spring on and put it right there. Screw this one all the way down through it and now your spring's in. So the last thing we need to do is right here, we need to tighten this bolt in and I like to go all the way in and then back out just about one turn. So now what you have is a metal extruder here. It's on there, your spring's in and that should be much more durable than the plastic one that came with the kit. Next thing you wanna do is grab an M6 Bowden fitting here and you wanna screw that down into the top. So we're just taking the M6 Bowden coupler or Bowden fitting, screwing it straight down into the top and this came in the TH3D kit. You got M6 and M10 fittings. Once you get it hand tight here, this one, you can take your wrench that came with the kit and just give it about one turn so it's nice and solid. Then you're done with the extruder. We have a brand new aluminum extruder with a brand new Bowden coupler from TH3D with metal teeth. Next thing we need to do is take out the coupler and the Bowden tube from the hot end right here. So what we're gonna do is start by moving these wires out of the way. This is for the BL touch and you don't want those to be in the way. Then we're gonna take the little blue clip and pull that little blue clip out there. Sometimes it's tough, but there we go, got it. So if you push down on the flange, it probably won't pull up if you've had your machine for a little bit. So what you wanna do is just loosen it up, grab your wrench, loosen up that top Bowden coupler there. Then what I'm gonna do is just cut this zip tie here to make it a little bit easy on us. There we go. And then I'm gonna spin the Bowden tube around and you'll start seeing that Bowden coupler spin. And this is the quickest way for me to get this out. So just keep spinning it around until it gets to the top. And there you go. Once it's at the top, it'll be pretty loose. Maybe one more spin. And then what you wanna do is grab it and just pull it straight out. The Bowden coupler is stuck on the Bowden tube. It won't go out. So if you push it forward, it'll actually come forward through that tube and you'll be good that way. Now take this tube, match it up to your Capricorn or your TH3D Tough Tube and cut it to the exact size. I like to use, when I'm cutting these, I like to use the actual cutter I got. It looks like this. You can actually take it and set your Bowden tube right in it and push it down to make sure you get a nice flush cut every single time. If you don't have one, you can use a hobby knife, lay it down on a solid surface and just cut straight down. But you need to make sure when you cut straight down that it's a good flush straight cut. You never wanna use your side cutters here cause those will actually crimp. Next we're gonna take our M10 Bowden coupler and screw it down into the top of the hot end and just get it tight by hand. So screw it all the way down until it's just tight by hand tightened. And it takes a minute and it's kind of weird, but you'll get it. So once we get it in like that, what I wanna do is loosen it one full turn. So I got a little snug there. So loosen it up a little bit. There we go, about one full turn and now we're good. Now take your new Bowden tube, the Tough Tube from TH3D is what I'm using. I push it all the way down into the hot end and make sure it's all the way in. You wanna make sure this is all the way down and touching that nozzle so you don't have any gap. Once you know it's all the way in and touching that nozzle and not coming back out, all you have to do is grab your wrench and tighten that Bowden coupler back up. So make sure your wires are out of the way and give that Bowden coupler a couple quick turns here and make sure it's good and tight. And that'll actually take and press your PTFE tube down against the nozzle and make it even tighter in there. That way there's less chance to have a gap. You can also use Luke's hot end fix if you wanna fix this as well. So now the easiest part of this is done. We have a brand new metal extruder with the TH3D Tough Tube and brand new Bowden couplers which are much better than what come from the factory. You can use Capricorn, all of that is linked in the description below. We also have the new magnetic bed that got rid of the glass and now it's time to install the silent board. Now the reason why we need this silent board is because this thing is super loud. I'm gonna put my microphone over here by this and we're gonna do an auto home and just listen to it. It is super, super loud. But we're gonna take care of a lot of that noise, I hope, with this brand new silent board. Let's do it. So I never like laying printers down but in this case we have to because we have to access the bottom panel here. So lay it down and what I did was I put the top of the printer a little bit off a table so it laid flush. Then we need to take out these six bolts and carefully pull the bottom out and disconnect our fan. So I have all six bolts out and it's just floating here. So what I'm gonna do is hold onto the bottom and just pull the bottom panel out like this. When you fold it down, you'll notice your fan is connected right in here and it's on the inner fan port of this board. Something to look at. So pull that out and move your panel aside. There's one, two, three screws we need to take to get the motherboard out. So I love that there's a lot of room here because that means we can move this board aside, put our new board in and just do one by one and put them all back in the same spots. The new board is identical to this except it has the silent stepper drivers. So the first thing we need to do is pull our ribbon cable for the display because that will get in our way. Then we need to take out the three screws that are currently holding the motherboard in. And that was wrong. There's actually four. There's one right down here that I didn't see before. So take that one out as well. The board should pull up a little bit up and then out of the way. So I found that most of the cords are run right behind the power supply here. And so I'm gonna actually lift them up and that'll help me get the old board over to the side. And you can actually pull that over a pretty good distance. Grab your new board here and it looks identical. It actually is the same board. It's the Creality version 2.2 and that's the same board as we have here. The difference is these should be the silent drivers. Then we're gonna set it up just like it was. Take your screw and we're gonna put the top one in right here. Once you got the top one in, let's put the center one in and make sure we're lined up. So do not tighten the top one yet until you can verify that you're lined up with the board here. Now that we know we're lined up, you can just get the tight, maybe a quarter turn past tight. Get your last two in and we'll be right back. Now all we have to do is start moving our cables over one by one and putting them in identical locations where they are from this board to this board. So I started by moving our main in right here. I got them in, give them a little gentle tug, make sure they're good and not coming out. Now I'm just gonna go right down this line here and go one for one off this board right into here. But I was working on this and I realized it was pretty tight. To make it easier on myself, I clipped the zip tie that was right here to release all these cables and we can put a new one on later. All right, so the new board is in, as you can see, everything is in and tightened. We checked all of our connections and made sure they're good and tight. When you're taking these off, they do hot glue the connections. So make sure you pick that hot glue off before you start pulling your connections on your old board. Other than that, you should be good to go. I did not re-zip tie these. I just figure it's in this case anyway. I know it looked nice, but I'd rather have a little bit of slack on these wires. I'm okay with that. Everything's tight. The last thing we need to do is push in our display cable like that and you can tuck it down if you would like. So it looks just like that. Everything else is in. We're gonna put the bottom on and we're gonna flip the printer back over. Now remember when you're putting the bottom on, you need to plug your fan back in and it goes in the inner most fan slot here right there. Now that I got it flipped over and plugged in, we're gonna turn it on and see what we have. So we do have the Ender 5 Plus Creality splash screen, which is great. We should start loading here. We have a all Chinese menu. If you get the all Chinese menu like I did, like this, you'll click on the settings button, click on the middle button, and click on English. Then hit return and you should see English now. And we have version 1.70-1BL. So we do have firmware. The screen is working good. It looks like we have all of the same options that we had before. A couple of things we do need to do is just heat up your nozzle and heat up your bed, make sure that they heat up. I would do those one by one just to make sure you don't have them backwards. So if we go to temp, we go to manual, I'll put some heat on the nozzle. So I felt the nozzle, we did get heat on that. So I'm gonna heat the bed, let's do 60 degrees, and we'll heat up the bed and make sure we got heat there. So it's already at just about 30 degrees Celsius, but I can feel heat on the bed, which is great. So I'm gonna cool that off. The next thing we need to do is auto-home this machine. I'm gonna take my microphone off and put it in about the same place it was before, and we're gonna do an auto-home and see how much different the sound is. Now that is awesome. It's so much more quiet with this board in it. Just wanna say that Creality did send me this board. I did not pay for it, but I wanted to make it part of this video because I really think this machine is awesome. And turning it into an Ender 5 Plus Pro is such a great idea. This is the printer that most of us wanted from the beginning. It came out, the price is pretty decent, but it really should have the silent board in it. It should have the upgraded tubing, whether that's TH3D Tough Tube like I prefer or Capricorn. In my opinion, they should use better Bowdoin couplers, but that's why I go with the TH3D kit that's linked in the description below. And also the Metal Extruder here. That's a huge upgrade on all of the Creality machines because we know that that plastic one wears down over time. The other thing I really can't wait to print on is this magnetic bed like we put on as well. I mean, all of that on this machine really makes this thing a great, great package. I just wanted to show you how to install the components, get them on here and get them running. Now the loudest part of this machine is the fans. And I tell you what, they are loud. The very loud one in this is actually the power supply fan. The power supply fan on this is crazy loud. I'm not gonna do anything with that because I'm actually gonna be changing the power supply out to a mean well. We'll go over that in a new video. But all of that being said, you know what? I really like this setup. It's so quiet now. I can not wait to see how it prints. So also don't forget we put a brand new extruder on with a different gear. Which means you're gonna have to recalibrate your E-steps and probably the flow rate. You can see the video I did for that here. I did it on an Ender 3, but it'll be the same. You'll have to use a computer to actually store it in here. Something else you'll need to do before you're done with this is go through the leveling process again. The reason I say that, we completely change the bed mat from the glass to this TH3D easy flex system. And that's awesome. The BL Touch usually way to count for that. But we put a brand new board in this. So that means the Z height we had set is completely erased. You need to start from scratch, run through your bed leveling process. It's in the manual and then you'll be good to go. Thanks to Crowdy for sending me the board for the Ender 5 Plus here. I did purchase all the other parts. Everything is in the description below. I'll have TH3D parts. Also, I'll have an Amazon cart that you can go straight into to create your own Ender 5 Plus Pro. Well, I hope you learned something today and as always, keep printing. Well, I hope you loved the video today. Give me that thumbs up if you did for the like. Hit the subscribe button here and the bell right over here to get notified next time we put out another great video or when we go live. You guys rock.