 Hey everyone, welcome back to RetroTech. We're still deep into our Sony PVM-20L5 series. And prior to this, you've seen me tear this one down, clean everything internally, and then put the monitor back together. And we ran some initial testing and some different smaller testing in the last video. However, today we're going to really get into it and we're going to run through a lot of tests. We're going to test all the different inputs. We're going to test the different resolutions that this monitor can handle and see really how it does on the performance end. Before we do that though, we're going to get inside the back of the CRT one last time and we'll look at a lot of the internal adjustments that can still be made on this monitor. Now there are mostly service menu adjustments to be made on this monitor, but they still do have some potentiometers and other things that you may need to adjust. And especially if you need anything done with your convergence, you will have to get in the back of the monitor more than likely. So we'll do a quick run through of that and then we'll put the shell back on. And then we're going to actually remove the anti-glare protective layer on the screen because the owner does not want the screen layer on it anymore. There's actually a mark in the layer. Alright, so after we get done removing the anti-glare layer, we'll piece it back together and we'll run all those tests. And we'll even run through and adjust a couple of the calibration settings so that the geometry looks great. Let's go ahead now and take a look at the adjustments you can make in the back of the monitor. If we look down in this area where we've got our flyback transformer assembly, you notice the glob of white where my finger is, and then below that is a second glob of white. That white is epoxy that is holding those two potentiometer adjustment or adjustment pots on the back of that. And those will help you adjust your focus. So if you have a blurry screen, you could try to adjust the two of those with a testing pattern on screen and sharpen up your picture. If we follow our anode cap over here to our deflection yoke, there are some potentiometers on top of this deflection yoke and these can be used to adjust your convergence. All you need to do is stick a small screwdriver inside there and you turn each one of these if you have a problem with either corner or convergence problems along the top and like bottom of your picture screen. Now this one doesn't need an adjustment so we won't be doing that, but before let's say if you wanted to go back here on this one these rings will adjust your actual full-on convergence. That would probably be the last thing you'd want to try to adjust if you had to. First you'd most likely want to adjust this potentiometer right here which is your H stat or your main convergence adjustment. So you want to try to start with that one and clear up the majority of your convergence and then if you still have issues secondary you can adjust here and then finally for the ultimate precision you can manually adjust your yoke rings. Now I said this one doesn't need it we're not going to do it. Behind here is another set of rings that actually adjusts screen purity. So if you have any problems where you think that your purity isn't right on your screen first try to degauss it but that's how you adjust screen purity. There are some potentiometers on the neck board other than that H stat. You'll notice one right down here. We'll look at that one from the other side but there are also three potentiometers here which I couldn't actually find any explanation in the service manual on what the adjustment would need to be done with those. I'm going to assume there's some kind of color drives since they're on the neck board here and there's three of them but I've never had to make an adjustment to those potentiometers so I don't know when you would actually need to but if anybody has any experience with them please leave that in the comments below. Okay here's the back of our neck board and again this is the H stat over here and this is the underside of that other potentiometer that we noticed from the other side where you can get to it back here with a screwdriver again and it's safer to adjust from the back. That's going to be your screen brightness or your G2. You see how it's broken off on this? You can actually see it's labeled where my finger is. It says G2 that feeds up into here and the potentiometer adjusts that G2 voltage so if you have a weak tube you can try to increase that but that's how you increase the G2 voltage so screen brightness it used to be called or screen pot. That for the most part is going to cover everything that you'd probably ever adjust back here. The only other thing you may need to do is adjust the actual landing of the yoke itself so if you need to do that you first have to loosen this yoke ring and then wiggle this to break it free from the RTV silicone that's holding it in place to the tube and then to the wedges and then you'll be able to manipulate this deflection yoke whether you need to move it on its axis or whether it's leaning up or down so thankfully this one doesn't have any issues with any of that but that is how you do that if that adjustment is needed. You're going to upgrade to this PVM and that's just going to require me to flip it on its side here for one second and then we're actually going to be installing these anti-vibration feet which will give it a little more clearance and let it sit up a little higher that'll give it you know three quarters of an inch to an inch in height almost and the benefit of this is you're going to allow a couple things to happen so before when we didn't have these installed a lot of dust that would get in the bottom of here it can't escape through this vent or any of these holes when it's sitting directly on a desk or if it would have been sitting on something else that was flat we're freeing that up and also allowing for heat to dissipate through that an air flow to come in and out of there we've also got a clear path now for our mono speaker we'll be able to hear that a lot better too by freeing up a path for those sound waves to escape there's that speaker that's pretty much it just for screws and then now we're sitting up pretty and then next we can get started on removing the screws here and here and then likewise two others on this side and we'll pull our whole bezel frame here forward and over kind of sitting it on top here we're getting ready to remove the screen bezel now and I've already gone ahead and removed the four phillips head screws on the side and doing so caused this to become extremely loose that made the tally light right here fall so that's perfectly fine if we just wiggle it should pull out and the reason we want to flip it up is to try to give the cable some space so that we can work on that without damaging anything because there's cables attached inside here and there's our gash in it down here which we showed earlier try to get it closer look at that if possible yeah so here's that scuff mark it's pretty long a lot of this was hidden right up next to the bezel well that's the little scuff and sort of confirmed it with the owner that he wants this layer gone again so he can clean it with a normal cleaner and have that gash gone all the way so what I'm going to do is I'm just going to get a razor blade and slip the blade under here on this you know overscan area and it'll really just peel this down in one clean layer and then we'll clean under it all right we're all set now to try to remove this I'm going to try to get in the center here that way I can switch between the camera views on both sides of me again I want to move this out of the way just so I don't damage it that's our tally light and again we can clean this area a little bit once this layer is gone I don't really want to mess anymore with the bezel so we're going to keep it in that position now the tools I'll be using are just a exacto knife just a standard exacto knife with a blade on it and then I've got a pair of squeaky needle nose pliers and let's just see how this happens because it it does go a little bit different each time but one more thing to warn you about this button over here you don't want to damage it it's good to take it off and set it aside and watch for this arm because it's plastic and it can break and then you'll have a difficult time turning your pvm on and off so set that aside I'm going to try the opposite side just so I don't mess with anything on that really near that the point is not really to slice down okay the point is to get in behind the layer and kind of wiggle the blade you don't want it to split want to stay solid and you don't want to touch the tube you want to try to get the layer and just kind of push it out away from the glass you see that so that's our goal is to do that and slowly keep all that together so we did get a little piece here we want to make sure that the whole thing stays together because if not that will be a pain I may not need the pliers just depends sometimes this adhesive is very difficult to get off well you see we've got it started and it's just pressure pulling down towards the bottom on the button here we go see we got a little eager down there and some of the glue got stuck that was by far the most difficult the most difficult one I've ever had to pull off whoo that was easier to start but man it got it was definitely stuck on there all right I'm just gonna clean up this area with some cleaner and then we'll be ready to put the bezel back we've lined our bezel back up and we're ready to screw back into place I'll give it a quick test when you reinstall your bezel screws please pay attention that you need to put these in the second screw hole so not the top screw hole or the bottom screw hole do it to like 90% of the way and then alternate sides on where you install and that way you don't put improper pressure on the plastic we go too much farther after this I'm going to run a test just to make sure I don't need to take it all apart put it back together again so far so good let's make sure that the buttons on both sides actually respond and yes they're doing what they're supposed to okay perfect all right so we got this anti-glare layer off and if you have this 20L5 or maybe a 14L5 or even other BVMs you might have one of these layers on your tube this one did have a little scuff in it I showed you before so now that's gone and we could get rid of this because this is pretty much useless at this point you'll never be able to reuse it and I don't think anybody could ever put a new anti-glare layer back on a tube like this I think you'd be wasting your time now one of the good things about it getting rid of that layer is the the glass on this is clear and what I mean by that is you're really get a good picture when you're using it we'll see that in a second I mean it is extraordinarily clear I wish I could think of a perfect word for how to describe it it's so clear maybe I can get my friend Tom to help me out what do you think Tom crystal oh yeah crystal crystal crystal clear perfect description hey that certainly was a lot of fun a little bit interesting to see that anti-glare layer come off like that and my good friends you know helping me out there at the end it's always nice to know some you know famous people once you once you've reached that plateau of 10,000 subscribers on YouTube the celebrities really start jumping at you hey in all seriousness I'm just kidding we do have one more episode on this 20l5 to show you we're going to run it through every kind of little test that we could think of we're going to test every input every resolution on it and then even the slot and option bay we're going to install some cards and see how that works and hopefully maybe then we can finally move on to some of these other great CRTs and things I've got planned because I've got some good stuff coming like this little beautiful nine inch kv right here and much more thanks again for watching guys I'll see you next time with some more retro content crystal