 Hey everybody welcome back today we're going to get started with the Sony BVM D24E1WU repair series and this is the first video in this repair series where I've done really anything serious on this D24 model. This video is not going to really talk so much about how wonderful the monitor is show you a bunch of pictures. I do have some footage obviously of the monitor in its current condition but I want to take this opportunity to kind of go through what you might want to consider if you actually end up acquiring one of these or maybe you know what kind of repairs are in order maybe you want to know more about the monitor what it can actually do so where we're going to start is a point in basically the very beginning where I've gotten these monitors I've gotten three of them and specifically we're going to start off with a certain board repair and then work through a lot of other boards and then once we finish all the boards and recap them then we're going to move into things like monitor performance and calibration first off I did want to say though if you do have this monitor or you want to know more information about this monitor the best thing you can do is get a copy of this PDF manual for maintenance and it's also an operating manual and it's the long one so this one is a total of 239 pages and it covers quite a few different models of the D20 as well as the D24 those are all the models there now we'll tell you that each one of these D20s and D24s they do not come with their own controller that is why they are all one on there instead of any fives so that the one indicates that they are all going to need their own kind of controller whether that's a BKM 11R or a 10R to be able to operate them but again this manual is going to go through and it basically explains everything about the monitor as far as what it can do and specifics on it all the way down to components within each one of them how to service it completely and then also what a lot of the menus means so that will all be stuff that we'll go on later on but just for your convenience I'm going to go through or I'm going to link a copy of this manual in the description for this video if you want to see that so I would highly recommend it on looking at this because it even talks about how to clean it how to set it up for in installations it also talks about magnetism because you do this has some very specific things that you can set for magnetism if you have purity issues but all that again is stuff we're going to go through later on down the road after we get through with all the mechanical and hardware restoration recaps and repairs that we're going to do ahead of time so let's get started with today's video and the first thing we're going to look at here is one of these d24s that I have picked up and this one I'll pull myself out of the picture some more this one has a little bit of an issue in it where if it goes extremely highly bright white on the screen like highly bright white it will kick into an overload mode which is not uncommon for these monitors actually what so just so you know I am using 480p on here through the xbox component on the monitor just to show you some initial tests this is really has had no adjustments whatsoever doing to done to it what I'm doing right now is I'm adjusting the brightness kind of going through and show you this particular monitor does have 20 pauses per second 27,000 hours so that's still relatively usable too it's not the greatest amount of hours but it's also not too many hours to really be overly concerned then some other things I wanted to point out here the serial number on here so this particular d24 was the 22nd off the production line and so this is very early on this one was this one was made in 1999 but every one of the bvms d-series will have a two followed by this log number and then the coordinating number back here is the number you know starting from one going up to like this one is 22 please notice down here that it will tell you on the status screen also what your software version is this 1.21 is the last firmware that was ever made for this series so that's something to check make sure your firmware is updated which you can update through a memory card which we'll talk about later on in the series but that's just kind of a quick overview of the status screen on this monitor and then hopefully in a second here I'll be able to show you how it kind of just zaps itself out now this does happen when you have generally too much voltage going into the tube and then the there's possibility that something could become damaged so the monitor goes into an overload protection shutdown and so I'm going to show you that real quickly here after you let the monitor run for a little while and like I said it if it hits a white or really bright whitish screen and the um and really the brightness is turned up at all it'll overload and then shut itself off and then you could power it back on but again if it goes to another white screen it doesn't take much brightness for it to overload and overloads pretty quickly so my first concern is to try to figure out what's causing the overload and initially I'm going to start by recapping one of the main boards on this now this is a modular unit meaning that 90 percent of the maintenance can be done by these cards that we'll be doing in the later episodes in the back but there is one board and that's this pa board that is the first board and if you're looking at the front of the bvm it's so if i'm staring at the front of the bvm it's on the left hand side there there's some vent holes on that side of the bvm and it's the same side that the power plug is on there's a board that has to do with the power um that's built into the monitor inside and it's not removable like a card would be however it's easy to get off there's two screws one up here at the top and then I just showed briefly the one at the bottom and then there's these two swing out plastic tabs that you just take a set of pliers and squeeze that together and then it'll come free from that and then this board actually did have a breakout board installed in it but after you get that out it's very easy to you know remove these disconnect points these connections they're all different sizes so you don't have to worry about missing or you know putting it back in the right spot they'll only fit in one spot so this board again is over 20 years old so the caps on it uh sony does use really high capacitors by the best were made in the late 90s early 2000s on this but that's still 20 years of age on uh these capacitors so it's time to replace them again this board had 36 electrolytic capacitors and I went from that service manual I showed you earlier if you go about to the pages towards the end of that service manual it'll list out all the capacitors in here and you can make your cap kit that way that's the way I made it just make sure you know your values and which ones to replace it with now this is a look at the board afterwards this board was a little bit deceiving because it it appeared that it was you know relatively clean and simple on the top which it is and you thought there was going to be a lot of room it's going to be easy repair but I'll flip this over on the backside so you can see exactly the real difficult issue on this board and it is just loaded with semiconductors microchip you know all kinds of different little components on this dual side board and a lot of the capacitor holes pauses for a second you can even see where my cursor is they're right in between a lot of these points and even for example over in this area where this pa1 board was added it's uh it there's a capacitor right there that I had to change so just so you know this little pa1 board this is not something that was normally on all of these what it is is it's a device that's installed on this board so that if you have some kind of malfunction this actually protects other parts from being damaged by rerouting the voltage or something you know it's like it's it's again it's just a basically an extra fail safe protection to make sure that other more vital components don't get damaged if there's an overload or if there's an issue that would cause damage that spike in voltage or something through the system and this will prevent that and I'll talk about it more as we go through this repair but I believe that this may ultimately be triggering that overload we saw earlier but maybe the fact that the capacitors in it the whole device or old is causing it to trip super super easily on pretty much any bright screen well beyond what it should be doing so you'll notice as I scroll through here if you quickly you'll just pause for a second all the tiny little holes and how they are in between just about everything and that's all the old capacitors in this baggie and then I'll show you this is the completely new capacitor kit a whole lot of different colors in there all our top quality and so this is pretty much a straightforward job of replacing these capacitors I've gone through and done this so many times at least shown you how to replace capacitors like I'm not the best in the world at soldering but the way I like to do it is I stick the capacitor in and there's two things you can remember about these capacitors if you're doing this for the first time there should be a marking on the side of them that always indicates what's negative excuse me that will either be a white line or a black mark on one of the legs and then also that capacitor's leg will be if it's a through hole capacitor it will be shorter and then the positive side is always longer and so that's a good way to see you know make sure you're putting your capacitor in the right way I make sure that I always put the capacitor in the right way I'd like to double check it and then I go in and bend the legs up put a little bit of flux on the pad soldered in place and then I go back and you saw what else I did I snipped the legs and then I reflowed the solder after that just to make sure that the bond is you know perfect pretty much so this is what it looked like afterwards you'll notice some of these capacitors have shrunk in size specifically those two in the middle and that is to be expected sometimes when you have a device that's over 20 years old the capacitors will change in size based on time and and cap technology improvements so here's the look at the underside I did clean it again with alcohol and a toothbrush and then just some air and then it's ready to be reinstalled and pretty much test it out to see if the recap and repairs were successful at all really because again this is the first board that and this is again the board I like to start with because the rest of the boards you'll see in a minute they're all modular and can be pulled out of the back of the monitor so obviously it was successful at least in replacing the capacitors and also seemed to work fine okay so let's run now some tests and I'm going to actually try to overload it in a minute here but I wanted to show you that it is working and when I put on a game like this it doesn't seem to have any problems but when I halo is a good one to test because there's this bright white bungee scene screen at the front and there's a bunch of bright white screens and if you turn up the brightness and contrast on your remote you can really max out the bloom brightness overdo it on this monitor so I was sitting here trying to do that over and over and over again and I actually was able to get it to finally overload okay and that again was by getting it on an all white screen and pushing it way higher on brightness but it was definitely not it didn't happen nearly as quickly or as automatically as it did before where sometimes it would just kick itself off if it got onto a bright white screen this had to literally go to the white white screen and have the brightness turned up for it to do it so I wanted to run a little test and I'm going to show you that now okay so we've got this screen and if you notice right there I'm going to try to slow this down and go back and forth a little bit but you'll notice on the screen here a bright white screen will flash and then you'll notice the overload warning light will come on and go off come on and go off so watch that happen and the reason that happening is happening is again because the brightness is turned up really high and it's sending so much white you know bright that's when it's making a white screen that's red green and blue are all engaged and you know shooting at the same time so it's causing that overload light and I tried everything on here and again this was only only thing that would make a trip out was the brightness contrast you could turn that up to max and it did not seem to bother it however when I would turn the brightness up it would go to that overload and this is again on the white screen however if I saw the overload light come on and I turned down the brightness the overload would go away it wouldn't kick itself off into standby it would just go back to normal use and I could actually play with it where I could turn it up and then turn it down and turn it up and turn it down and you see that's why the overload light's coming on until it gets to the normal screen where the white screen's pretty much completely gone so my thinking is it's that PA1 board that may be causing this board right here may be tripping that overload however I'm not completely sure and I haven't found anything I've been through the service manual three or four times I haven't found anything exactly specific on if that's what this is supposed to do directly if anybody knows and wants to leave a comment or refer refer over to anything or page in the manual you might have found please do so I'd appreciate it but I believe because none of the other ones really overload that like that none of the other bvm d24s that I got the other two but this one will do it and it's the only one with this PA1 board installed so again recapping that and it did make it run way more efficiently so I'm thinking that that might be what's causing it to basically go into that warning system like it's supposed to probably to tell you to basically turn down your brightness for a second that way you're not going to damage any of the internals in the monitor all right so that's it for the first board repair but these are the other boards there's four other ones and this one right here is the one we're going to do very last it's the actual analog input board so every d series comes with a video input card built into it that can do everything from composite component rgb and and I'll again we'll go through that much more detail later on when we get to that card but that's going to be a big bad card because it's all surface amount well not all but 90 surface amount components now zoom in right here look above my finger right here you'll notice there's already some bubbles and stuff coming out of these cards so I would not want to leave this like this and especially use it where these components will start to heat up and that stuff will bubble more and it could cause some kind of reaction on the board and damage especially one of these chips that would be a nightmare so we're going to have to get in here and replace all these a little surface amount components and that's something I've never had to do before in a pvm or bvm so that should be fun uh so that was this one was just the one and there's some more residue down there and the other boards just have a lot of electrolytics for example these two boards these have some shielding on them but if we open them up they're really just full of more electrolytics so the plan is to go through and individually make video content recapping each board then we'll test each board individually and then once we get all the boards recapped all of these we'll put them all together and we will go through the monitor and begin the whole adjustment phase that way we'll be starting with a the best possible given these bvm the best possible chance for it to really shine at the end of the day and work out you know well so that's it though for this first video in the series and definitely if you have any more information about the pa1 mini board on the back of the pa board then please let me know but again this is the d24 e1 w restoration series and today we went through and recapped the pa main board but again guys look for more content because there's at least going to be four I'll probably break these videos up like this so to be four or five in this series total and we'll really get down and get completely into every aspect of this d24 thanks again for watching I'll see you guys next time with some more retro content