 15. Aberdeen, Scotland. soft, creamy, mellow. Aberdeen, Bohemia, made near Carlsbad, hard, sheep, distinctive, with a savoury smack all its own. Absinthe, C. Petafina. Acidophilus, C. St. Ival. Eatkeys, Belgium. November to May. Winter made and eaten. Afine, Carre. C. Ancien Imperial. Aflumicata, Mozzarella. C. Mozzarella. After dinner cheeses. C. Chapter 8. Agricultural school cheeses. C. College educated. Agui fromage d'alpine france. Named cheese of the needles from the sharp alpine peaks of the district where it is made. Sainte-Ré-de-Aziz, C. Sainte-Ré. Agicillo, Ajacchio, Corsica. Semi-hard, picot, nut flavor. Named after the chief city of French Corsica where a cheese-lover, Napoleon, was born. Alec creme. C. fromage, fromage blanc, chevretons. Alaman, C. vacherem. Alapai, C. fromage. Alla rechette, C. ban. Albini, northern Italy. Semi-hard, made of both goat and cow milk. White mellow, pleasant-tasting table-cheese. Albula, Switzerland. Rich with the flavor of cuds of green herbs chewed into creamy milk that makes tasty curds. Made in the fertile Swiss valley of Alpula, whose proud name it bears. Aldernae, Channel Islands. The French, who are fond of the special product of the very special breed of cattle, named after the Channel Island of Aldernae, translate it phonetically. Fromage d'oregne. Alamtejo, Portugal. Caldinfo, Queijo. De Alamtejo. Cheese of Alamtejo. In the same way that so many French cheeses carry along the fromage title, soft, sheep and sometimes goat or cow, in cylinders of three sizes, weighing respectively about two ounces, one pound and four pounds. The smaller sizes are the ones most often made with mixed goat and sheep milk. The method of curdling without the usual animal rinnat is interesting and unusual. The milk is warmed and curdled with vegetable rinnat made from the flowers of a local thistle, or cardoon, which is used in two other Portuguese cheeses, Queijo da Cardica and Queijo da Serra da Estrela, and probably, and many others, not none beyond their locale. In France, La Calvote is distinguished for being clabbered with chardonnay, a wild artichoke seed. In Portugal, where there isn't so much separating of the sheep from the goats, it takes several weeks for Alamtejo to ripen, depending on the lack to content and difference in sizes. Alfalfa, sea sage. Alice Saint-Rain, France. Soft summer made. Algar Bercas, Algar Runkas, or Algar Ementhaler, Bavaria. Hard, Ementhaler type. The small district of Algal names a mountain of cheeses almost as fabulous as our rot-candy mountain. There are two principal kinds. Vintage Algar Bercas, and soft Algar Runkas, described below. This celebrated cheese section runs through rich pasture lands right down and into the Swiss valley of the Amme that gives the name Ementhaler to one of the world's greatest. So it is no wonder that Algar Bercas can compete with the best Swiss. Before the Russian Revolution, in fact, all vintage cheeses of Algal were brought up by wealthy Russian noblemen and kept in their home caves and separate compartments for each year, as far back as the early 1900s. As with fine vintage wines, the price of the great years went up steadily. Such cheeses were shipped to the Russian owners only when the chief cheese-pluggers of Algal found that they had reached their prime. Algal Runkas, Bavaria. Full cream, similar to Romador and Limburger, but milder than both. This sets a high grade for similar cheeses made in the Bavarian mountains, in monasteries such as the Andex. It goes exquisitely with the rich, dark Bavarian beer. Some of it is as slippery as the stronger Smöljer Bercas or the old-time slipcoat of England, like so many North Europeans it is often flavored with caraway. Although entirely different from its big brother, Vintage Bercas, Runkas can stand proudly at its side as one of the finest cheeses in Germany. Alpe. Si fiori di Alpe. Alpepe. Italy. Hard and peppery, like its name. Similar to Pepato. Si. Alpes. France. Similar to Belpais. Alpestra. Austria. A smoked cheese that tastes, smells, and inhales, like whatever fish it was smoked with. The French Alps has a different Alpestra. Italy spells hers Alpestro. Alpin Alpestra, or fromage di briançan. France. Hard, goat, dry, small, slightly salted, made at briançan and Gap. Alpestra. Italy. Semi-soft, goat, dry, lightly salted. Alpen, or clérember, Alpine France. The milk is coagulated with rennet at 80 degrees Fahrenheit in two hours. The curd is dipped into molds, three to four inches in diameter, and two and a half inches in height, allowed to drain, turned several times for one day only, then salted and ripened one to two weeks. Altenberg, or Altenberger Ziegenkasse. Germany. Soft, goat, small and flat, one to two inches thick, eight inches in diameter, weight, two pounds. Alt-cucas. Old cow cheese. Germany. Hard, well-aged, as its simple name suggests. Alt-sohe. Si briançan. Amber, or form diamber. Limon. Avern. France. A kind of cheddar made from November to May, and belonging to the Cantal, form Le Tom tribe. American. American Cheddar. USA. Described under their home states and distinctive names are a dozen fine American Chetters, such as Kuhn, Wisconsin, Herkimer County, and Tillamook, to name only a few. They come in as many different shapes, with traditional names such as daisies, flats, longhorns, midgets, picnics, prints, and twins. The ones simply called Chetters weigh about sixty pounds. All are made and pressed and ripened in about the same way, although they differ greatly in flavor and quality. They are ripened anywhere from two months to two years and become sharper, richer, and more flavorsome, as well as more expensive with the passing of time. See Cheddar states and Cheddar types in chapter four. American Romano. USA. Hard brittle, sharp. Amol. Bairne. France. Winter cheese. October to May. Anatolian. Turkey. Hard, sharp. Anchovi. Links. USA. American processed cheese that can be mixed up with anchovies or any fish from whitebait to whale, made like a sausage, and sold in handy links. Ancien imperiale. Normandy. France. Soft, fresh cream. White, mellow, and creamy, like nuffchâtal, and made in the same way. Tiny bricks packaged in tin foil, two inches square, one-half inch thick, weighing three ounces, eaten both fresh and when ripe. It is also called carré and has separate names for the new and the old. A. Petite carré, when newly made. B. carré affiné, when it has reached a ripe old age, which doesn't take long, about the same time as nuffchâtal. Ancona. C. pecorino. Andean. Venezuela. A cow's milker made in the Andes near Merida. It is formed into rough cubes and wrapped in the pungent aromatic leaves of Frelijon lanudo espalecia sciolzi, which imparts to it a characteristic flavor. Description given in Buen Proveco by Dorothy Cayman Kay. Andex. Bavaria. A lusty, allegor type. Monk made on the monastery hill at Andex on Amersy. A superb snack with equally monkish dark beer, black bread, and blacker radishes served by the brothers in dark brown robes. Antwerp. Belgium. Semi-hard, nut-flavored, named after its place of origin. Appenzeller. Switzerland. Bavaria and Baden. Semi-soft, emmentaler type, made in a small 20-pound wheel. A pony cartwheel in comparison to the big Swiss. There are two qualities. A. common, made of skim milk and cured in brine for a year. B. festive. Full milk, steeped in brine with wine, plus white wine leaves and pepper. The only cheese we know of that is ripened with leaves of wine. Appetitost. Denmark. Semi-soft, sour milk, nut-like flavor. It's an appetizer that lives up to its name, eaten fresh on the spot, from the loose bottom pans in which it is made. Appetost. Denmark. Sour buttermilk, similar to premula with caraway seeds added for snap, imitated in USA. Apple. USA. A small New York state cheddar put up in the form of a red-cheeked apple for New York City, trade. Inspired by the pear-shaped provolone and baby Gouda, no doubt. Arer. Bohemia. Semi-hard, sour milk, yellow, mellow and creamy. Made in mountains between Bohemia and Silesia. Argentine. Argentina. Argentina is specially noted for fine reproductions of classical Italian hard-grating cheeses such as Parmesan and Romano, rich and fruity because of the lush pappas grass feeding. Armavir. Western caucuses. Soft, whole, sour, sheep milk. A hand cheese made by stirring cold sour buttermilk or whey into heated milk. Pressing in forms and ripening in a warm place, similar to hand cheese. Arnotten. Sea. Travneck. Arovattur. Italy. Water buffalo milk. Cour di arras. Sea. Cour. Ariné. Champagne. France. Made only in winter, November to May, since gourmet products of the same province often have a special affinity, Ariné and Champagne are specially well suited to one another. Artichoke. Cardoon. Or thistle. For rennet. Sea. Calibol. Artificial dessert cheese. In the lavish days of old England, artificial dessert cheese was made by mixing one quart of cream with two of milk and spiking it with powdered cinnamon, nutmeg, and mace. Four beaten eggs were then stirred in with one half cup of white vinegar and the mixture boiled to a curd. It was then poured into a cheesecloth and hung up to drain six to eight hours. When taken out of the cloth, it was further flavored with rosewater, sweetened with castor sugar, left to ripen for an hour or two, and finally served up with more cream. Acidero. Or oaxaca. Jalisco and oaxaca. Mexico. White. Whole milk. Curd is heated and hot curd is cut and braided or kneaded into loaves from eight ounces to eleven pounds in weight. Acidero means suitable for roasting. Asco. Corsica. France. Made only in the winter season. October to May. Asiago. One, two, and three. Vicenza. Italy. Sometimes classed as medium and mild, depending mostly on age. Loaves weigh about eighteen pounds each and look like American cheddar but have a taste all their own. One. Mild, nutty, and sharp. Use for table slicing and eating. Two. Medium. Semi-hard and tangy. Also used for slicing until nine months old. Three. Hard, old, dry, sharp brittle. When over nine months old it's fine for grating. Asin. Or water cheese. Northern Italy. Sour milk. Washed curd. White-ish, soft, buttery. Made mostly in spring and eaten in summer and autumn. Dessert cheese. Frequently eaten with honey and fruit. Au cumin. Si monstre. Au finui. Si tom. De savoy. A fond and de fond. A style of ripening on the hay. Si pith vires. A fond and fromage de fond. Au galop. Valais. De or. Normandy. France. Soft, tangy, piquant. Pont les vecs. Type. De oric. Si sens un. Fromage de orign. Si orign. Orilac. Si bleu de orn. Oror. And triple oror. Normandy France. Made and eaten all year. Australian and New Zealand. Australia and New Zealand. Enough cheese is produced for local consumption. Chiffley cheddar. Some gruyere. But unfortunately mostly processed. Autant. Nivernais. France. Produced and eaten all year. Fromage des vaches. Is another name for it. And this is of special interest and a province where the chief competitors are made of goat's milk. Bleu de orn. Si bleu. Orvin blanc. Confit. Si épuis. Avéné. Boulette d'avéné. Si bolette. Bleu ets. Arléné. France. Not eaten during July, August or September. Season October to June. Queho do aziteo. Portugal. Soft, sheep, sapid, and extremely oily as the superlative, so implies, there are no finer, fatter cheeses in the world than those made of rich sheep milk in the mountains of Portugal and named for them. Aziteoso. Portugal. Soft, mellow, zestful, and as oily as it is named. Azildoc mountain turkey. Mild and mellow mountain product. End of Chapter 15. According by Jennifer Stearns. The complete book of cheese by Robert Carlton Brown. B. Backsteiner. Bavaria. Resembles Limburger, but smaller, and translates brick from the shape. It is aromatic and pecante, and not very much like the U.S. brick. Bagnes, or fromage à la raclette. Switzerland. Not only hard, but very hard. Named from raclère. French for scrape. A thick one half inch slice is cut across the whole cheese and toasted until runny. It is then scraped off the pan it's toasted in with a flexible knife. Spread on bread and eaten like an open-faced Walsh rabbit sandwich. Bogozo. Ground on Bogozo. Brusciano. Italy. Hard, yellow, sharp. Surface often colored red. Parmesan type. Baker's cheese. Skim milk, similar to cottage cheese, but softer and finer grained. Used in making bakery products, such as cheesecake, pie, and pastries, but may also be eaten like creamed cottage cheese. Ball, U.S.A. Made from thick sour milk in Pennsylvania, in the style of the original Pennsylvania Dutch settlers. Velakas, or Wommeldorf. Similar to Ball. Balls, Dutch red. English name for Edum. Banberry, England. Soft, rich cylinder, about one inch thick, made in the town of Banberry. Famous for its spicy, citrus peel buns and its equestrian. Banberry cheese with Banberry buns made a sensational snack in the early 19th century, but both are getting scarce today. Banek, Armenia. White and sweet. Banjaleuca, Bosnia. Porta solu type from its Trappist monastery. Benon, or Le Petit Benon. Provence France. Small dried sheep milker, made in the foothills of the Alps and exported through Marseille in season, May to November. This brightly summer cheese is generously sprinkled with the local brandy and festively wrapped in fresh green leaves. Bar cheese, USA. Any saloon cheddar, formerly served on every free lunch counter in the U.S. before prohibition. Free lunch cheese with the backbone of America's cheese industry. Barbarsena, Minas Garias, Brazil. Hard white, sometimes chalky, named from its home city in the leading cheese state of Brazil. Barbaray, Orphanage, Detroit. Champagne, France. Soft, creamy, and smooth, resembling camembert, five to six inches in diameter and one and a quarter inches thick, named from its hometown, Barbaray, near Troy, whose name it also bears. Fresh warm milk is coagulated by rennet in four hours. Uncut curd then goes into a wooden mold with a perforated bottom to drain three hours before being finished off in an earthenware mold. The cheeses are salted, dried, and ripened three weeks in a cave. The season is from November to May and when made in summer they are often sold fresh. Barbou, France. Soft. Baranette, USA. A natural product mild and mellow. Baron, France. Soft. Basilac, sea blue. Bath, England. Gently made, lightly salted, drained on a straw mat in the historic resort town of Bath. Ripened in two weeks and eaten only when covered with a refined fuzzy mold that's also eminently edible. It is the most delicate English-speaking cheeses. Battlemont, Switzerland. St. Goddard Alps, Northern Italy and Western Austria. An emintholler made small where milk is not plentiful. The wheel is only 16 inches in diameter and four inches high, weighing 40 to 80 pounds. The cooking of the curd is done at a little lower temperature than emintholler. It ripens more rapidly in four months, and is somewhat softer, but has the same holes and creamy though sharp, full nutty flavor. Bodden, Seoso, Coppen. Germany, Austria, Bohemia and Silesia. Semi-soft, sour milk, hand type. Made in Herger's Mountain Huts and about the same way as Harkas, though it is bigger. In two forms, one cup shape, called Coppen, the other a cylinder. Strong and aromatic, whether made with or without caraway. Bavarian beer cheese, C. Bayrich's Beercase. Bavarian cream, German. Very soft, smooth and creamy. Made in the Bavarian Mountains, especially good with sweet wines and sweet sauces. Bavarian beer cheese from the time roll is made not only to eat with beer, but to dunk in it. Beads of cheese, Tibet. Beads of hard cheese, two inches in diameter, are strong like a necklace of caraway shells or rosary, 50 to 100 on a string. See also, money made of cheese. Beads, C. Tom de Savoy. Bean cake, tofu or tofu. China, Japan, the Orient. Soy bean cheese, imported from Shanghai and other oriental ports, and also imitated in every Chinatown around the world. Made from the milk of beans and curdled with its own vegetable rennet. Beaujolais, C. Chevretin. Beaumont or Tom de Beaumont. Savoy, France. A more or less successful imitation of Trappist-Hémy, a trade secret triumph of Savoy, and its best from October to June. Beauport de Robon. Daffiné, France. A winter specialty made from November to April. Beckenried, Switzerland. A good mountain cheese from goat milk. Beer cheese, USA. While our beer cheese came from Germany, and the word is merely a translation of beerkass, we use it chiefly for a type of strong limb burger made mostly in Milwaukee. This fine aromatic cheese is considered by many as the very best to eat while drinking beer. But in Germany, beerkass is more apt to be dissolved in a glass or a stein of beer, much as we mix malted powder and milk, and drunk with it, rather than eaten. Beer Regis. Dorset's Shire, England. This sounds like another beer cheese, but it's only a mild cheddar named after its hometown in Dorset's Shire. Beast cheese, Scotland. A curiosity of the old days. The first milk after a calving boiled or baked to a thick consistency. The result somewhat resembling new made cheese, though this is clearly not a true cheese. McNeil. Bellarno, Italy. Hard, goat, creamy dessert cheese. Belgian cooked. Belgian. The milk, which has been allowed to coddle spontaneously, is skimmed and allowed to drain. When dry, it is thoroughly kneaded by hand and is allowed to undergo fermentation, which takes ordinarily from 10 to 14 days in winter and 6 to 8 days in summer. When the fermentation is complete, cream and salt are added and the mixture is heated slowly and stirred until homogenous, when it is put into molds and allowed to ripen for 8 days longer. A cheese ordinarily weighs about 3.5 pounds. It is not essentially different from other forms of cooked cheese. Belly sir, C. Damocci. Bellé, tet d'amoyne, from Monkshead, Switzerland. Soft, buttery, semi-sharp spread. Sweet milk is coagulated with rennet in 20 to 30 minutes. The curd cut fairly fine and cooked, not so firm as mentholer, but firmer than Limburger. After being pressed, the cheeses are wrapped in bark for a couple of weeks until they can stand alone. Since no eyes are desired in the cheeses, they are ripened in a moist cellar at a lowest temperature. They take a year to ripen and will keep 3 or 4 years. The diameter is 7 inches, the weight 9 to 15 pounds. The Monkshead, after cutting, is kept wrapped in a napkin soaked in white wine and the soft creamy spread is scraped out to butter bread and snacks that go with more white wine. Such combinations of old wine and old cheese suggest monkish influence, which began here in the 15th century with the jolly fires of the canton of Bern. There it is still made exclusively and not exported, for there's never quite enough to go around. Bell Pace, Italy. See under foreign greats Chapter 3. Also see, Bell Fino, a blend, and Bell Pace types. French Boudin and German salt Stefano. The American imitation is not nearly so good as the Italian original. Bell Paceino, a play on the Bell Pace name and fame. Weight 1 pound and diminutive in every other way. Percasse, see Alguea. Pergoire, Sweden. Semmahard, fat, resembles Dutch Gouda, tangy, pleasant taste. Gets sharper with age as they all do. Molded in cylinders of 15 to 40 pounds. Popular in Sweden since the 18th century. Berkeley, England. Named after its hometown in Gloucester, England. Berliner Cockice, Berlin, Germany. Cow cheese, pet named turkey cock cheese, by Berlin students. Typical German hand cheese, soft, aromatic with caraway seeds, and that's about the only difference between itch and alt's kukais, without caraway. Bernand, von Magelle, Bernand. Italy. Cow's whole milk, to which about 10% of goat's milk is added for flavor. Cured for two months. Berg, France. Made of skim milk. Berry rennet, see Wethania. Pace Le, Bourbonnet, France. Soft, mild, and creamy. Beck's Hill, England. Cream cheeses, small, flat, round. Excellent munching. Beer Kass, Germany. There are several of these unique beer cheeses that are actually dissolved in a sign of beer and drunk down with it in the beer stubs. Notably, Beirutcher, Dresdener, and Olmutser. Semi-soft, aromatic, sharp. Well imitated in Ech-dusch, American spots such as Milwaukee and Hoboken. Beefrost, Norway. Goat, white, mildly salt. Imitated in a process spread in four and a quarter ounce package. Bin, Wallis, Switzerland. Exceptionally fine Swiss from the great cheese canton of Wallis. Vito, northern Italy. Hard, Ementaler type, made in the Valtellina. It is really two cheeses in one. When eaten fresh, it is smooth, sapid, big eyed Swiss. When eaten after two years of ripening, it is very hard and sharp and has small eyes. Blanc à la crème, c fromage blanc. Blanc, c fromage blanc one and two. Blu, France. Brittle, blue veined, smooth, biting. Blu, devinier, or fromage bleu. Overname, France. Hard, sheep or mixed sheep, goat or cow. From Ponquibeau and Lanquille, ripening caves. Similar to better known candle of the same province. A kindre rocfort and stilden and de blu de laquille. Blu, de Basilec. Limousine, France. Blu mold of rocfort type that's prime from November to May. Blu de laquille, France. Similar to blue, devin, but with a different savor. Name for its originator, Antoine Rousseau Laquille, who first made it a century ago in 1854. Blu de Limousine, fromage. Lower Limousine. Practically the same as Blu de Basilec, from lower Limousine. Blu de Salais, France. A variety of blu, devin, from the same province distinguished for its blues that are green. With a majority, this is at its best only in the winter months from November to May. Blu, fromage. See Blu, devin. Blu, alavit. See alavit. Blind. The name for cheese is lacking the usual holes of the type they belong to, such as Blind Swiss. Blok, Enem, USA. US imitation of the classical Dutch cheese named after the town of Enem. Blok, smoked. Ostria. The name is self-explanatory and suggests a well-colored Mesherm. Bloeder, or Schlicker Milch. Switzerland. Sour milker. Blu cheddar. See Cheshire Stilton. Blu Danish. See Danish Blu. Blu Dorset. See Dorset. Blu Jera. See Jera Blu. And Sip Monceau. Blu and Blu with port links. USA. One of the modern American processed sausages. Blu Minnesota. See Minnesota. Blu Moon. USA. A processed product. Blu Vinny. Blu Vinin. Blu Vane Dorset. Or double dorset. Dorset Shire England. A unique Blu that actually isn't green veined. Farmers make it for private consumption because it dries up too easily to market. An Epicurian esoteric match for Truckles Number One of Wiltshire. It comes in a flat form, chalk white, crumbly and sharply flavored, with a royal blue vein running right through horizontally. The Vinny mold, from which it was named, is different from all other cheese molds and has a different action. Bocconi Giganti. Italy. Sharp and Smoky Specialty. Bocconi Provoloni. See Provolone. Watt. See from Wajda Watt. Bombay. India. Hard. Goat. Dry. Sharp. Good to crunch with a Bombay deck in place of a cracker. Bondes. See Bondon de Neufchatelle. Bondon de Neufchatelle. Or Bond. Nomadier France. Nicknamed Bond de Toutebien. From resemblance to the bung in a barrel of Neufchatelle wine. Soft small loaf rolls. Fresh and mild. Similar to cornet, but sweeter because of 2% added sugar. Bondon de Rouen. France. A fresh Neufchatelle. Similar to petite Swiss. But slightly salted, to last up to 10 days. Bondoste. Sweden. One caraway seed is added to this called Kamanoste, spelled Kumanoste in Norway. Bondoste. USA. Imitation of Scandinavian cheese was small production in Wisconsin. Bond de Rouen. France. Romantically named the Penitent Thief. Bordens. USA. A full line of processed and naturals of which litercron is the leader. Pirelli. Italy. A small water buffalo cheese. Poisson Massères. Provence France. A winter product, December, January, February, and March only. Bondon. France. Whole or skimmed cow's milk. Ribbons in 2 to 3 months. Bondon. Normandy France. Soft, fresh, smooth, creamy, mild child of the Neufchatelle family. Bougain-Le-Moth. Sea-Le-Moth. Boulay-La. Normandy France. One of the most prolific provinces of 30 different notables. In season October to May. Boul-De-Lille. France. Named given to Belgian Boud-Casse by the French who enjoy it. Boulette-Devenet. Or Boulette-de-Cambrai. Flanders France. Made from November to May, eaten all year. Bourguin. France. Type of fresh Neufchatelle made in France. Parishable and consumed locally. Borgogne. Sea-Petite-Borgogne. Box. Wittenberg, Germany. Similar to US brick, it comes in two styles. Firm and soft. One, also known as Schlechtercase. Boxed cheese and Hohenheim. Where it is made. A rather unimportant variety. Made in a copper kettle with partially skin milk. Coloured with saffron and spiked with caraway. A handful to every 200 pounds. Salted and ripened for 3 months and shipped in wooden boxes. Two, also known by names of localities were made. Hohenberg, Mendes, and Lehenstiffen. Made of whole milk. Mild but peckant. Bra. Number 1. Piedmont, Italy. Hard, round form. 12 inches in diameter. 3 inches high. Weight? 12 pounds. A somewhat romantic cheese. Made by nomads who wander with their herds from pasture to pasture in the region of Bra. Bra. Number 2. Turin and Cunio, Italy. Soft, creamy, small. Round and mild, although cured in brine. Brand of Rancas, Germany. Soft, sour milk hand cheese weighing 1 third of a pound. The curd is cooked at a high temperature, then salted and set to ferment for a day. Butter is then mixed into it before pressing into small bricks. After drying, it is put in used beer kegs to ripen and is frequently moistened with beer while curing. Brandy, C. Caledonian, Creme. Brandia de Berlia, Romania. Hard, sheep, extra salty because always kept in brine. Brandia de Cosole, Romania. Described by Richard Wyndham in Wine and Food, winter 1937. A creamy, sheep's cheese which is encased in pine bark. My only criticism of this most excellent cheese is that the center must always remain a gastronomical second best. It is no more interesting than a good English cheddar while the outer crust has ascended resinous flavor which must be unique among cheeses. Bratkass, Switzerland. Strong, specially made to roast in slices over coal. Fine grilled on toast. Breakfast, rustic, lunch, delicate and other names. Germany. Soft and delicate, but with a strong tang. Small round for spreading. Lauterbach is a well-known breakfast cheese in Germany while in Switzerland Emmentaler is eaten at all three meals. Breakstone, USA. Like Borden and other leading American cheese mongers and manufacturers, Breakstone offers a full line of which the cream cheese is an American product to be proud of. Bresa Gau, Savoye, France. Soft, white. Bresla, Germany. A proud Prussian dessert cheese. Bressens, Si Le Petit. Bress, France. Lightly cooked. Britannia, Si Montaubin. Provene, Switzerland. Emmentaler type. Briancourt, Si Alpin. Brick, Si Chapter 4. Brickbat, Wiltshire, England. A traditional Wiltshire product since early in the 19th century. Made with fresh milk and some cream to ripen for one year before it's fit to eat. The French call it Brickton. Procata, Corsica. Semi-soft, sour sheep, sometimes mixed with sugar and rum and made into luscious cakes. Bri, Si Chapter 3. Also, Si Sondre and Coulomiers. Bri, Fesson. France. The name of imitation brie or brie type made in all parts of France. Often it is dry, chalky and inferior to the finest brie veritable that is still made best in its original home, formerly called Le Brie. Now, Sainte-et-Marne or Ile-de-France. Si, Nivernée, De Cisse. Le Mont-d'Or and Ile-de-France. Bri, De Meaux. France. This genuine brie from the Meaux region has an excellent reputation for high quality. It is made only from November to May. Bri, De Melon. France. This brie veritable is made not only in the seasonal months from November to May, but practically all the year around. It is not always prime. Summer brie, called Magre, is notably poor and thin. Spring brie, is merely Magre, half fat, as against the fat autumn gra that ripens until May. Brie, Savorin. Normandy, France. Soft and available all year. Although the author of Physiologie de Gout was not noted as a case file, and wrote little on the subject beyond Le Fondue, C.6, this savory Normandy produce is named in his everlasting praise. Brina de Brélia, Romania. Semi-soft sheep done in brine. Brinza, USA. Our imitation of this creamy sort of fresh white roquefort is as popular in foreign colonies in America as back in its Hungarian and Greek homelands. On New York's east side, several stores advertise Brinza fresh daily, with an extra D crowded into the original Brinza. Brine, C. Italian bra, Caucasian echewani, Brina de Brélia, Briney. Briney or brined. Syria. Semi-soft, salty sharp. So called for making process in brine. Turkish Tulum penny is of the same salt-soaked type. Brinza or Brinzen. Hungary, Romania. Capetian Mountains. Goes by many local names. Assol. Cleans. Lendoc. Lip Tower. Nussel. Sivenberger and Zips. Soft sheep milk or sheep and goat. Crumbly, sharp and biting, but creamy. Made in small lots and cured in a tub with beach shavings. Fatina Perino is its opposite number in Macedonia. Brioleur, C. Westphalia. Brickbeck, C. Providence. Brickton, England. The French name for English built Shire Brickbat, one of the very few cheeses imported into France. Known in France in the 18th century, it may have influenced the making of Trappist Port-Salut at the Brickbeck Monastery in Notch. Brutal, C. Greek Casera, Italian Ricotta, Turkish Ravish Dürmer, and U.S. Hopi. Rizikon, Savoye, France. Imitation, Robichon. Made in the same Savoye province. Boshio, or L'Obercanis. Corsica, France. Soft, sour sheep milk or goat, like Ricotta, and the first cousin to Italian, Chivavari. Cream white, slightly salty, eaten fresh in Paris, where it is as popular as on its home island. Sometimes salted and half dried or made into little cakes with rum and sugar. Made and eaten all year. Brutkos, Holland. Hard, flat, nutty. Bruce de la visibi, Le. Nice, France. Small, sheep, long, narrow bar shape, served either with powdered sugar or salt, pepper, and chopped chives. Made in visibi. Brussels, or Bruxelles. Belgium. Soft, washed skim milk, fermented, semi-sharp, from Louvain and Hall districts. Budapest, Hungary. Soft, fresh, creamy, and mellow, a favorite at home in Budapest and abroad in Vienna. Buderick, Germany. A specialty in Düsseldorf. Bull, Switzerland. A Swiss gruyere. Bundost, Sweden. Semi-hard, mellow, tangy. Burgundy, France. Named after the province, not the wine, but they do go wonderfully together. Bushman, Australia. Semi-hard, yellow, tangy. Butter and cheese, C. 8. Butter, Serbian, C. Kajmar. Buttermilk, U.S. and Europe. Resembles cottage cheese, but a finer grain. End of section 16. Recording by Jennifer Stearns, Concord, New Hampshire. Section 17 of The Complete Book of Cheese. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Recording by Jennifer Stearns. The Complete Book of Cheese by Robert Carlton Brown. C. Cabresson Leu, Auvergne, France. Small Goat from Morris. Cabrion, Avergne, France. So much like the cabresson, they may be called sister nannies under the rind. Cachet, Dettresho, Leu, Auvergne, Duventoux. Provence, Mountains, France. Semi-hard, sheep. Mixed with brandy, dry white wine, and sundry seasonings. Well-marinated and extremely strong. Seasoned May to November. Caccio Cavallo, Italy. Horse cheese. The ubiquitous cheese of classical greats emanated all around the world and back to Italy again. C. Chapter 3. Caccio Cavallo, Siciliano. Sicily, also in USA. Essentially a pressed provolone, usually from cow's whole milk, but sometimes from goat's milk or a mixture of the two. Weight between 17 and a half and 26 pounds. Used for both table cheese and grating. Caccio fiore, or cacciata, Italy. Soft as butter, sheep, in four pound square frames. Sweet-ish, eaten fresh. Caccio pecorino romano, C. pecorino. Caccio romano, C. ciavari. Caya fili. Whales in England. Devon, Dorset, Somerset, and Wilshire. Semi-hard, whole fresh milk. Takes three weeks to ripen. Also sold green, young and innocent, at the age of 10 to 11 days when weighing about that many pounds. Since it has little keeping qualities, it should be eaten quickly. Welsh miners eat a lot of it. Think it's specially suited to their needs, because it is easily digested and does not produce so much heat in the body as long-keeping cheeses. Tale bot. Curds. France. Anjou, Poitou, Saint-Tonge, and Vendee. Soft, creamy, sweetened fresh, or sour milk, clabbered with chardonnette. Wild artichokes seed, over slow fire. Cut in lodges, and serve cold two hours after cooking. Smooth, mellow, and aromatic. A high type of this unusual cheese is janté. C. Other cheeses are made with vegetable rennet. Some from similar thistle or cardoon juice, especially in Portugal. Caille de portier. C. Petite pot. Cal de habas. Gascony France. Clabbered or clotted, sheep milk. Cajuson. Paragord, France. A notable goat cheese, made in Quebec. Calabrian. Italy. The Calabrians make good sheep cheese, such as this, caccia cavolo. Calcadano. Sicily. Hard, used milk, suitable for grading. Caledonian cream. Scotland. More of a dessert than a true cheese. We read in Scotland's Inner Man, a sort of fresh cream cheese, flavored with chopped orange marmalade, sugar brandy, and lemon juice. It is whisked for about half an hour. Otherwise, if put into a freezer, it would be good ice pudding. Calvados. France. Medium hard, tangy. Perfect with calvados, applejack, from the same province. Calvanzano. Italy. Similar to gorgonzola, made in Bergamo. Cambrai. Sea bullet. Cambridge or York, England. Soft, fresh, creamy, tangy. The curd is quickly made in one hour, and dipped into molds, without cutting, to ripen for eating in 30 hours. Camembert. Sea chapter 3. Camembert. Germany, U.S., and elsewhere. A West German imitation that comes in a cute little heart-shaped box, which nevertheless doesn't make any more length of Camembert Veretab of Normandy. Camuslin. USA. Semi-soft, open-textured, resembling Monterey. Drained curd is pressed in hoops. She is salted and brined for 30 hours, then coated with paraffin and cured for one to three months, in humid room at 50 degrees to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Canadian club. Sea cheddar club. Cancunot. Cacanot. Cankilot. Kinkolot. Cancoide. Fromagerre. Tempette. And puree de fromage tré fort. Franche-compte. France. Soft, sour milk. Sharp and aromatic. With added eggs and butter, and sometimes brandy or dry white wine. Soled in attractive small molds and pots. Other sharp seasonings, besides the brandy or wine, make this one of the strongest of French strong cheeses, similar to fromagerre fort. Canistrato. Sicily, Italy. Hard, mixed goat and sheep. Yellow and strong. Takes one year to mature, and is very popular both in Sicily, where it is made to perfection. And in Southern Colorado, where it is imitated by and for Italian settlers. Cantal. Fromage tré cantal. Overn. Overn blue. Also form and latom. Overn France. Semi-hard, smooth mellow. A kind of cheddar. Lightly colored lemon. Yellow, strong. Sharp taste, but hardly any smell. Forty to a hundred twenty pound, cylinders. The rich milk from Highland Pastures is more or less skimmed, and being a very old variety, it is still made most primitively. Pure at six weeks, or six months. And when very old, it's very hard and very sharp. A cantal type, a linguine, or guillol. Capitanata. Italy. Sheep. Caprian. Capri. Italy. Made from milk of goats that still overrun the original goat island, and tangy as a buck. Caprino. Little goat. Argentina. Semi-hard. Goat. Sharp. Table cheese. Caraway loaf. USA. This is just one imitation of dozens of German caraway seeded cheeses that roam the world. In Germany, there is not only kumal loaf cheese, but a loaf of caraway seeded bread to go with it. Milwaukee has long made a good kumalkas, or hand cheese, and it would take more than the fingers of both hands to enumerate all of the European originals, from Dutch kumkas through Danish King Christian IX, and New England kuminoste, Italian fricha, Pomeranian rinden, and Belgian laden, to Pennsylvania pot. Cardiga que jo da. Portugal. Hard, sheep, oily, mild flavor. Named from cardo, cardoon, in English, a kind of thistle used as a vegetable rennet and making several other cheeses, such as French kale bot, curdled with chardonnay, wild artichokes seed. Only classical Greek, sharp cheeses, like cassara, can't compare with the superb ones from the Portuguese mountain districts. They are lusciously oily, but never rancidly so. Karl's Bad. Bohemia. Semi-hard, sheep, white, slightly salted, expensive. Carre affiné. France. Soft, delicate, in small square forms, similar to Petite Carre in Ancient Imperio. C. Carre de lusse. France. Similar to Camembert and imitated in the USA. Cascavallo paneer. Turkey. Caccio cavallo, imitation consumed at home. Cacerella. Grease. Semi-soft, sheep, mellow, creamy. Cacere. Grease. Hard, sheep, brittle, gray, and greasy, but wonderful. Sour, sweet, tongue, tickle. This classical, low-greasy creason is imitated with goat milk instead of sheep in Southern California. Cacerella. Armenia and grease. Hard, goat or cow's milk, brittle, sharp, nutty, similar to cassare and high in quality. Cacerella. Turkey. Semi-hard, sheep. Cascavallo paneer. Seed casher. Caccio cavallo, Syria. Mellow, but sharp, imitation of the ubiquitous Italian cacaccio cavallo. Casigullulo, penata, para divaca, sardinia. Plastic curd cheese made by the Caccio cavallo method. Cascavallo, pocashcavallo, sifera, caspian, coquesis. Semi-hard, sheep or cow, milked directly into cone-shaped cloth bag to speed the making. Taste tangy, sharp, and biting. Casarro, Italy. Locally consumed, seldom exported. Castel Magno. Italy. Blue mold, gorgonzola type. Castello bronco, white castle. Portugal. Semi-soft, goat or goat and sheep, fermented. Similar to serra da estrella. Sea. Castellon or fromage de gasconi. France. Fresh cream cheese. Castle. Schlosskass. North Austria. Limburger type. Cat and zaro. Italy. Consumed locally, seldom exported. Cat's head. Sea. Katzenkopf. Celery. Norway. Flavored mildly with celery seeds instead of the usual caraway. Sandree. La. France. Olené. Blois et l'aubre. Hard, sheep, rounded, flat. Other sandries are champignois or ricey, bruit, daisies, and all of it. Sandree, daisies. Burgundy, France. Available all year. Sea. La Sandree. Sandree de la bruit. Ilder France. France. Fall and winter bruit, cured under the ashes. Seasoned September to May. Sondree, champignois, ochendree, de racé. Oub and marne, France. Made and eaten from September to June and ripened under the ashes. Sondree, alivette. Sea, alivette. Sennice, sea monsenice. Sotozo, Strachina. Italy, near Milan. A variety of Strachina, named after the Cartesian friars, who have made it for donkey's years. It is milder and softer and creamier than the Talaggio because it's made of cow instead of goat milk, but it has less distinction for the same reason. Seva, Italy. Soft veteran of Roman times named from its town near Turin. Chabichu, Poitou, France. Soft, goat, fresh, sweet and tasty. A vintage cheese of the months of April to December, since such cheeses don't last long enough to be vintage-lived wine by the year. Shangy, Orleans, France. Seasons September to June. Cham, Switzerland. One of those eminent emmentalers from Cham, the hometown of Mr. Fister. Seafister. Chamois milk. Aristotle said that the most savourous cheese came from the Chamois. This small, goat-like envelope feeds on wild mountain herbs, not available to lumbering cows, less agile sheep, or domesticated mountain goats. So it gives, in small quantity, but high quality, the richest, most flavoursome of milk. Champeau Noir or fromage de Ricé. Oub and Marne, France. Seasoned from September to June, the same as Sondier Champeau Noir and de Ricé. Chamolion de Cares. Hôt Alpes, France. Hard skim milker. Chantelle. Natural Port du Soleil type described as zesty by some of the best purerres of domestic cheeses. It has a sharp taste and little odor, perhaps to fill the demand for a married man's limburger. Chantilly C. Habla. Chaours. Champeau, France. Soft, nice to nibble, with a bottle product of the same high living champagne profits, a kind of camembert. Chapeau, France. Soft. Charmey, Fine. Switzerland. Griers type. Chasseau or Chasseau C. Canton of Grissonne, Switzerland. Hard skim, small wheels, 18 to 22 inches in diameter by 3 to 4 inches high. Weight, 22 to 40 pounds. Chasseau, C. Petite fromage. Chette de Rue, C. fromage de Cheve. Chamotte, Champagne, France. Seasoned November to May. Cheveignol, C. Carton. Chuchelac, Armenia. Soft pot, flaky creamy. Cheddar, C. Chapter 3. Cheesebread, Russia and USA. For centuries, Russia has excelled in making a salubrious cheesebread called Matrisky, and the cheese that flavors it is Torog, see both. Only recently, Shraffs in New York put out a yellow, soft and toothsome cheesebread that has become very popular for toasting. It takes heat to bring out its full cheesy flavor. Good when overlaid with cheese butter of contrasting pecans, say, one mixed with sapsago. Cheese butter. Eco parts of creamed butter and finely grated or soft cheese and mixtures thereof. The imported but still cheap green sapsago is not to be forgotten when mixing your own cheese butter. Cheese food, USA. Any mixtures of various lots of cheese and other solids derived from milk with emulsifying agents, coloring matter, seasonings, condiments, relishes and water, heated or not, into a homogenous mess. A long and kind word for a homely, tasteless, heterogenous mess. From an advertisement. Cheese hoppers, C hoppers. Cheese mites, C mites. Cheshire and Cheshire imitations, C with cheddar in Chapter 3. Cheshire Stilton, England. In making this combination of Cheshire and Stilton, the blue mold peculiar to Stilton is introduced into the usual Cheshire process by keeping out each day a little of the curd and mixing it with that in which the mold is growing well. The result is a Cheshire in size and shape and general characteristics but with the blue veins of Stilton, making it really a blue cheddar. Another combination is Yorkshire Stilton and quite as distinguished. Chester, England. Another name for Cheshire used in France where formerly some was imported to make the visiting Britishers feel at home. Chevalier, France. Currants sweetened with sugar. Chevelle, USA. A process Wisconsin. Cheve, C fromage. Cheve de Châtarrue, C fromage. Cheve Petite, C, Petite fromage. Chevetonne, C, Tom. Chevretaine, Savoye, France. Goat, Small and Square, named after the Mammy nanny as so many are. Chevretes, Ponta and Cerimi. Brez and Francs Comte, France. Dry and semi dry, crumbly, goat, small squares, lightly salted. Seasoned December to April. Such small goat cheeses are named in the plural in France. Chevetonne de Beaujolais à la crème, Lé. Lyonnais, France. Small goat milkers, served with cream. This is a fair sample of the railroad names some French cheeses stag are under. Chevretins, Savoye, France. Soft dried goat milk, white, small, tangy and semi tangy. Made and eaten from March to December. Chihana, Asia. All we know is that this is made of the whole milk of cows, sourd, and is not as unusual as the double H in its name. Chiavare, Italy. There are two different kinds named for the Chiavare region and both are hard. One, sour cow's milk, also known as Cascio Romano. Two, sweet whole milker, similar to Corsican Rocio. Chiavare, the historic little port between Genoa and Pisa, is more noted as the birthplace of the Bavaric Chiviri, rousing of newlyweds, with its racas serenaded dishpans, serrano bugling and such. Chives cream cheese. Of the world's many fine fresh cheeses, further freshened with chives, there is Belgian, Hervé, and French clacaré, with onion added. See both. For our taste, it's best with the chives added at home, as it's done in Germany, in person at the table or just before. Crystallina, Canton, Grubbenden, Switzerland. Hard, smooth, sharp tangy. Christian 9, Denmark. A Distinguished Spice Cheese. Ciclo, Italy. Soft, small cream cheese. Syrup de Luchon, France. Made from November to May in the Comte de Foix, where it has the distinction of being the only local product worth listing with France's 300 Notables. Citeau, Burgundy, France. Trappist, Port-Salut. Claver cheese, England. Simply cottage cheese left in a cool place until it grows soft and it automatically changes its name from cottage to clover. Claveau, France. Formerly made in the Benedictine Monastery of that name. Claquerette Le, Lyonnais, France. Fresh cream whipped with chives, chapped fire with onions. See chives. Claire & Bear, see Alpen. Cleaves, France. French imitation of the German imitation of a Holland Dutch original. Clothes, see Nagocas. Club, potted club, snappy, cold pack, and commuted cheese. USA and Canada. Probably McLaren's Imperial Club in Pots was first to be called Club, but others credit clubbed with the U.S. In any case, McLaren's was bought by an American company and is now all-American. Today there are many clubs that may sound swanky, but taste very ordinary, if at all. They are made of finely ground aged, sharp cheddar mixed with condiments, liqueurs, olives, pimentos, etc., and mostly carry come on names to make the customers think they are getting something from Old England or some aristocratic private club. All are described as tangy. Originally, butter went into the better clubs, which were sold in small personal jars, but in these processed days they are wrapped in smaller tin foil and wax paper packets and called snappy. Cocktail cheeses. Recommended from stock by Phil Apperts, cheeses of all nations stores. Argentine aged Crier, Canadian Doka, French Bleu, Brie, Camembert, Fontaine Bleu, Porte de Vec, Porte de Saloux, Robouchon, Roquefort, Gritian Feta, Hungarian Brinza, Polish Borsarski Ski, Romanian Kaskaval, Swiss, Swiss of Kos, American Cheddar and Brandy, Hoppy Indian, Kerr à la creme, Burgundy France. This becomes fromage à la creme II, C, when served with sugar, and it is also called a heart of cream after being molded into that romantic shape in a wicker or willow twig basket. Cour de râles à trois francs. These hearts of our râles are a soft, smooth mellow, caressingly rich with the cream of our râles. Coffee flavored cheese. Just at the touch, captivated coffee lovers all over the world with their coffee flavored candies, haguish-t'alp-jays. So the French with John J. Cheese and Italians with our cata satisfy the universal craving by putting coffee in for flavor. Cuombra, Portugal. Goat or cow. Semi-hard, firm, round, salty, sharp. Not only one of those college-educated cheeses, but a post-graduate one, bearing the honored name of Portugal's ancient academic center. Colby, USA. Similar to cheddar, but of softer body and more open texture, contains more moisture and doesn't keep as well as cheddar. College-educated. Besides Cuombra, civil countries have cheeses brought out by their colleges. Even Brazil has one in Minas, Garis, and Transylvania, another called Colas Monastore. While our agricultural colleges in every big cheese-state from California through Ames in Iowa, Madison in Wisconsin, all across the continent to Cornell in New York, lie with one another in turning out Diploma Ed, American Cheddar, and such of high degree. It is largely to the agricultural colleges that we owe the steady improvement in both quality and number of foreign imitations since the University of Wisconsin broke the curds early in the century by important Swiss professors to teach the high art of inventory. Colwick, C. Slipcote. Cuume air, France. Small, similar to Italians, Turkino, in everything but size. Commission, Holland. Hard, ball-shaped like Edom, and resembling it except being darker in color and packed in a ball weighing about twice as much, around 8 pounds. It is made in the province of North Holland and in Friesland. It is often preferred to Edom for size and nutty flavor. Campagne, France. Soft. Comte, Segriere. Conscious, France. A mentalotype. Condreaux, Rabat, Durla. Rhone Valley, below, beyond, France. Semine hard, goat, small, smooth, creamy, mellow, tasty. A cheese of cheeses for epicures. Only made from May to November when pasture ridge is rich. Confi au Marc de Bourgnon, C. Époisse. Confi au Val Blanc, C. Époisse. Cooked at Pennsylvania Pot, USA. Named from cooking sour clobber curd to the melting point. When cooled it is allowed to stand three or four days until it is colored through. Then it is cooked again with salt, milk, and usually caraway. It is stirred until it is as thick as molasses and strings from a spoon. It is then put into pots or molds, whose shape it retains when turned out. All cooked cheese is now to be tasteless unless some of the milk flavor cooked out is put back in, as wheat germ is now returned to white bread. Almost every country has cooked cheese all its own, with or without caraway, such as the following. Belgium, Constructus, Germany, Cookus, Tupfen, Luxembourg, Cochin-Cas, France, Frommage, Oui, and Le Poteu, Sardinia, Panadas, Freissa. Kuhn, C. Chapter 4. Cornhusker, USA. A Nebraska product similar to cheddar and colbi, but with softer body and more moisture. Cornemont, Versage, France. A splendid French version of Alsatian monster, spiked with caraway, in flattish cylinders, with mahogany red coating. It is similar to Jeremy and the harvest cheese of Jérémie Meurre in the same L'Ache-Borge Valley. Kors-Roukford-Deux, Corsica, France. Corsica, an invitation of the real Rookford, and not nearly so good, of course. Cossack, Caucasus. Cow or sheep. There are two varieties, one soft, cured in brine, and still soft and mild after two months in the salt bath. Two semi-hard and very sharp after aging in brine for one year or more. Collarstone, Yorkshire, England. Also known as Yorkshire Stilton and Onesley Dale, number one. Sea-both. Cotrone, Cotronnayse. Sea-peccarino. Cotta, sea pasta. Cottage cheese. Made in all countries where any sort of milk is obtainable. In America, it's also called pot, dutch, and smirkase. The English, who like playful names for homely dishes, called cottage cheese, smirkase, from the gerin, smirkas. It is also called glumze in Duchenne, and together with cream formed the basis of all of our fine Pennsylvania Dutch cuisine. Cottonham or double cottonham. English midlands. Semi-hard double cream, blue mold. Similar to Stolzend, but creamier and richer, and made in flatter and broader forms. Cotslaw, Cotswold, England. A brand of cream cheese named for its home in Cotswold Gluster, although soft it tastes like card cheddar. Coulomiers, Fries, or Petite Moule. Île de France, France. Fresh cream similar to Petite Swiss, C. Coulomiers, Le, or Brie de Coulomiers, France. Also called Petite Moule, from its small form. This genuine Brie is a pocket edition, no larger than a Camembert, standing only one inch high and measuring five or six inches across. It is made near Paris, and is a great favorite from the autumn and winter months, when it is made on until May. The making starts in October, a month earlier than most Brie, and is off the market by July, so it's seldom tasted by the avalanche of American summer tourists. Couchies, sounds redundant, and is used mostly in Germany, where an identifying word is added, such as Berliner Kuckas and Altkuckas, old cow cheese. Cream cheese, international. England, France, and America go for it heavily. English cream begins with Devonshire, the world famous thick fresh cream that is sold cool in earthen ware pots and makes fresh berries, especially the small wild strawberries in rural England, taste out of this world. It is also drained of straw mats and formed into fresh hardened cheeses in small molds. C. Devonshire Cream. Among regional specialties are the following, named from the place of origin or commercial brands. Cambridge, Cotslaw, Cornwall, Farmvale, Guilford, Homers, Italian, Lincoln, New Forest, Rush, from being made on Rush or straw mats, C. Rush, St. Ivel, distinguished from being made with Acidophilus Bacteria, Scotch Caledonian, Slipcoat, famous in the 18th century, Victoria, York. Creme Chantilly, C'est Hable, Creme de Guyane, C'est fromage. Creme de Gruyère, Franche, Comte, France. Soft Gruyère cream cheese arrives in America in perfect condition in tin foil packets, expensive but worth it. Creme de Vorge, Alsace, France. Soft cream, season October to April. Creme double, C double Creme. Creme fromage à la, C fromage. Creme fromage blanc à la, C fromage blanc. Creme Saint-Gervais, C pote de crème Saint-Gervais. Creme de Nanté, lower la, France. Soft fresh cream of Nantes. Creme de Lé, en jus France. A fresh cream equal to English Devonshire serve more as a dessert than a dessert cheese. The cream is whipped stiff with egg whites, drained and eaten with more fresh cream, sprinkled with vanilla and sugar. Cremini, Italy. Soft small cream cheese from Cremona, the violin town. And, by the way, art-loving Italians make ornamental cheeses in the form of musical instruments, statues, still life groups, and everything. Creole, Louisiana, USA. Soft, rich, unripened cottage cheese type, made by mixing cottage type curd and rich cream. Crescenza, Crescenza. Sturchina, Crescenza. Crescenza, Lombardi. Lombardi, Italy. Uncooked, soft, creamy, mildly sweet, fast ripening, yellowish whole milk made from September to April. Creuse, Creuse, France. That two-in-one farm cheese of skim milk resulting from two different ways of ripening. After the cheese has been removed from perforated earthen molds seven inches in diameter and five or six inches high, where it has drained for several days. One, it is salted and turned frequently until very dry and hard. Two, it is ripened by placing in tightly closed mold lined with straw. This softens flavors and turns it golden yellow. Sea hay or fromage de foie. Creuse, or Criette. Limousine, France. Seasoned October to June. Croissant de moussel, France. Soft double cream, semi-salty all year. Crouton de chavenol, berry France. Semi-hard goat's milk, small, lightly salted, mellow. In season 8 to December, the name is not exactly complementary. Crouty or cruddy butter, Scotland. Named for the combination of fresh sweet milk curds pressed together with fresh butter. A popular breakfast food in Inverness and the Ross Shires. When kept for months it develops a high flavor. A similar curd and butter is made by Arabs and stored in vats. The same is in India, the land of ghee, where there's no refrigeration. Crying Kabuk. F. Mary McNeil in the Scots kitchen says that this was the name of a cheese that used to be part of the Kimmer's feast at a lying inn. Coursada, C. Venezuela. Coursac, C. Casaju. Cuit, C. fromage quits. Cumin, monster O, C. monster. Cup, C. cuppin. Curd, C. granular curd, sweet curd, and york curd. Curds and butter, Arabia. Fresh sweet milk curd and fresh butter are pressed together as in making crouty or crouty butter in Scotland. The arrows put this strong mixture away in vats to get it even stronger than East Indian ghee. Curee fromage de C. nonte. End of section 17. Read by Jennifer Stearns, Concord, New Hampshire. Chapter 18 of The Complete Book of Cheese. This is the LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org, recording by Miriam Esther Goldman. The Complete Book of Cheese by Robert Carlton Brown. Chapter 18, D to F. D. Daisy's Fresh. A popular type in packaging of mild cheddar, originally English. Known as an all-around cheese to eat raw, cooked, let ripened, and used for seasoning. Dalmatian, Austria. Hard used milker. Dombo, Denmark. Semi-hard and nutty. Domman, or Glory of the Mountain. Montagnier. Hungary. Soft, uncured, mild ladies' cheese, as its name asserts. Popular alpine snack in Viennese cafes with coffee gossips in the afternoon. Danish Blue, Denmark. Semi-hard, rich, blue veined, pecant, delicate, excellent imitation of Brokefort. Sometimes called Danish Brokefort. And because it is exported around the world, it is Denmark's best known cheese. Although it sells for 20 to 30% less than the international triumvirate of blues, Brokefort, Stilton, and Gorgonzola, it rivals them and definitely leads lesser blues. Danish Export, Denmark. Skim milk and buttermilk. Round and flat, mild, and mellow. A fine cheese, as many Danish exports are. Dantsk, Schweizerost, Denmark. Danish Swiss cheese. Imitation eminthaller, but with small holes. Nutty, sweet dessert, or picnic cheese, as Swiss is often called. Danzig, Poland. A pleasant cheese, to accompany a glass of the great liqueur. Goldwasser, Odivie de Danzig, from the same celebrated city. Darling, USA. One of the finest Vermont Shedders, handled for years by one of America's finest fancy food suppliers, SS Pierce of Boston. Dauphin, Flanders, France. Season November to May. Der Arrign, fromage. Sea Alderney. Daventure, England. A Stilton type, white, small, round, flat, and very rich, with blue veins of a darker green. Dessise, Nivernet, France. In season all year. Soft, creamy, mellow, resembles Brie. Defwan, fromage. Sea, hey. Defontein, Spain. Crumbly, sharp, nutty. De Gascony, fromage. Sea, Castillon. Der Gerard Mer, Sea, Brickolet. Delft, Holland. About the same as Leiden, Sea. Delicio, the brand name of a truly delicious Brie. Delicat, USA. A mellow breakfast spread on the style of the German Fruschtuck original. Sea. Delil, Boul. French name for Belgian Udekas. Demi etouf. Half size etouf. Sea. Demi Petit Suisse. The name for an extra small Petit Suisse to distinguish it from the gross. Demicelle. Normandy, France. Soft, whole, creamy, lightly salted. Resembles gourmet, but slightly saltier. Also like US cream cheese, but softer and creamier. Demicelle croissant. Sea croissant, demicelle. Derby or Derbyshire. England. Hard, shape like Austrian Nagocessa. And the size of Cheshire, though sometimes smaller. Dry, large, flat, round, flaky, sharp, and tangy. A factory cheese, said to be identical with double Gluster and similar to Warwickshire, Wiltshire, and Leicester. The experts pronounce it a somewhat inferior Cheshire, but deficient in its quality and the flavor of cheddar. So it's unlikely to win in any cheese derby in spite of its name. Devonshire cream and cheese. England. Devonshire cream is world famous for its thickness and richness. Superb with wild strawberries, almost a cream cheese by itself. Devonshire cream is made into a luscious cheese, ripened on straw, which gives it a special flavor, such as that of French Juan or Hay cheese. Dolce Verde, Italy. This creamy blue vein variety is named Sweet Green, because cheese mongers are colorblind when it comes to the blue greens and the green blues. Domaci Belli Sir, Yugoslavia. Sir is not a title, but the word for cheese. This is a typical used milker cured in a fresh sheepskin. Domestic Gruyere, USA. An imitation of a cheese impossible to imitate. Domestic Swiss, USA. Same as domestic Gruyere, maybe more so, since it is made in ponderous 150 to 200 pound wheels, chiefly in Wisconsin and Ohio. The trouble is, there is no Alpine Pasteurage and Emitolor Valley in our country. Domiati, Egypt. Whole or partly skimmed cows or buffaloes milk. Soft, white, no opening. Mild and salty when fresh and cleanly acid when cured. It's called a pickled cheese and is very popular in the Near East. Dorset, double dorset, blue dorset or blue vinny, England. Blue mold type from Dorseture. Crumbly, sharp, made in flat forms. Its manufacturer has been traced back 150 years in the family of F. E. Dare, who says that in all probability it was made longer ago than that. See, blue vinny. Daughter, Nuremberg, Germany. An entirely original cheese perfected by G. Leuchs in Nuremberg. He enriched skim milk with yolk of eggs and made the cheese in the usual way. When well ripened it is splendid. Doubles. The English name cheese made of whole milk double, such as double cottonem, double dorset, double gluster. Singles are cheese from which some of the cream has been removed. Double cream, England. Similar to Wensleydale. Double Crane, France. There are several of this name, made in the summer when milk is richest in cream. The full name is fromage à la double crème and pommel is one well known. They are made throughout France in season and are much in demand. Dresdener Bierkasse. Germany. A celebrated hand cheese made in Dresden. The typical soft skim milker. Strong with carolet and drunk dissolved in beer as well as merely eaten. Drinking cheeses. Not only Dresdener, but dozens of regional hand cheeses in Germanic countries are melted in steins of beer or glasses of wine to make distinctive cheese to drinks for strong stomachs and noses. This peps up the drink in somewhat the same way as ale and beer are laced with pepper sauce in some parts. Dry. Germany. From the drinking cheese just above to dry cheese is quite a leap. This cheese known as Sperkasse and Trockenkasse is made in the small dairies of the eastern part of the Bavarian Alps and in the Tyrol. It is an extremely simple product made for home consumption and only in the winter season when the milk cannot be profitably used for other purposes. As soon as the milk is skimmed it is put into a large kettle which can be swung over a fire where it is kept warm until it is thoroughly thickened from souring. It is then broken up and cooked quite firm. A small quantity of salt and sometimes some caraway seed are added and the curd is put into forms of various sizes. It is then placed in a drying room where it becomes very hard when it is ready for eating. From U.S. Department of Agriculture Bulletin Number 608 Dobreala C. Berina Duel Austria Soft skim milk hand type 2 by 2 by 1 inch cube Dunlop Scotland One of the national cheeses of Scotland but now far behind Cheddar which it resembles although it is closer in texture and moisture. Semihard, white, sharp, buttery, tangy and rich in flavor. It is one of the toasting cheeses resembling Lancashire II in form and weight. Made in iron, lannarch, renfrew and sold in the markets of Kilmarnaak, Kirk Codbritt and Wigtum. Durrak, turkey. Mixed with butter, mellow and smoky. Costs three dollars a pound. Durlag or bagug paneer. Armenia. Sheep, semi-soft to brittle hard. Square, sharp but mellow and tangy with herbs. Sometimes salty from lying in a brine bath from two days to two months. Dermar Raroush, sea Raroush. Dutch, Holland. Cream cheese of skim milk. Very perishable spread. Dutch cheese. American vernacular for cottage or pot cheese. Dutch cream cheese. England. Made in England although called Dutch. Contains eggs and is therefore richer than Dutch cream cheese in Holland itself. In America we call the original Holland kind Dutch, cottage, pot and farmer. Dutch mill. USA. A specialty of Oakland, California. Dutch red balls. English name for Edom. E. Eschourniak Trapde. Perigord, France. Trapes Monastery Port Salute. Made in the Moussane. Edom, sea chapter three. Egg, Finland. Semi-hard. One of the few cheeses made by adding eggs to the curds. Others are Dutch cream cheese of England, German daughter, French fromage kuit, cooked cheese and Westphalian. Authorities agree that these should be labeled egg cheese, so the buyers won't be fooled by their richness. The Finns age their eggs even as the Chinese ripen their hundred-year-old eggs by bearing lemon grain, as all Scandinavians do, and the Scots as well in the Oatvin. But none of them is left to century to ripen as eggs are said to be in China. Elbinger or Elbing. West Prussia. Hard, crumbly, sharp. Made of whole milk except in winter when it is skimmed. Also known as Verderkasse and Niederangkasse. Ekiwani. Caucasus. Hard, sheep, white, sharp, salty with some of the brine it's bathed in. Elisabeth Polen or Eriwani. Caucasus. Hard, sheep, Swedish sharp and slightly salty when fresh from the brine bath. Also called Kasach, Cossack. Tali, Kurini and Karab in different locales. El multablu, Italy. Soft, mellow, tasty. Emiliano, Italy. Hard, flavor varies from mild to sharp. Parmesan type. Emmentalen, Switzerland. There are so many, many times of this celebrated Swiss all around the world that we're not surprised to find Lapland reindeer milk cheese listed as similar to Elmenthaler of the hardest variety. See Chapter 3 also Bechera and Fondue. An envelope. French phrase of packaged cheese in the envelope. Similar to English packet in our process. Raw natural cheese the French refer to frankly is new in the nude. Engadin, Grabunden, Switzerland. Semi hard, mild, tangy sweet. English dairy, England and USA. Extra hard, crumbly and sharp. Resembles cheddar and has long been imitated in the States, chiefly as a cooking cheese. Entres show Le Cachade, Si Cachade. Soft small cylinder with flattened end about five inches across. The season is from November to July. Equally proud of their wine and cheese, the Burgundians marry white wine to mark to in making confets with that name. Airboat, Italy. Similar to Gorgonzola, the Galvani cheese makers of Italy who put out both Bel Pese and Taleggio also export airboat to our shores. Essay, Languedoc, France. Soft, smooth and sharp. A winter cheese and season only from November to May. Eriwani, Si Elisabeth Polen. Ervi, Champagne, France. Soft, yellow rind, smooth, tangy, picket, seven by two and a half inches, weight four pounds. Resembles camembert. A wash cheese also known as fromage de Troyer. In season November to May. Essex, USA. Imitation of an extinct or at least dormant English type. Estrella, Si Serra de Estrella. Etouvet and Demi Etouvet. Holland. Semi hard, smooth, mellow. In full size and Demi half size. In season all year. Everglice. Yugoslavia. Sharp, nutty flavor. Excelsior. Normandy. France. Season all year. F. Factory Cheddar, USA. Very old factory cheddar is the trade name for well-aged sharp cheddar. New factory is just that. Mild, young and tractable. Too tractable, in fact. Farm, France. Known as firm, majeure, fin. Fromage a la pie. Nothing to do with apple pie. And moon, weak. About the same as our cottage cheese. Farmer. This is curd only and is nowadays mixed with pepper, locs, nuts, fruits and almost anything. A very good base for your own fancy spread or season a slab to fancy and bake it like a hoe cake. But in the oven. Farmhouse. Si Herregard Sauce. Farm Vale. England. Cream cheese of Somerset wrapped in tin foil and box and wedges. Eight to a box. Fat cheese. Si Frontage Grave and Mile Panere. Fanwheel. Si Tomé de Savoy. Ferme. Si Farm. Feta. Si Chapter 3. Feau de Draux. Verne, France. November to May. Filled cheese. England. Before our processed and food cheese era, some scoundrels in the cheese business over there added animal fats and margarine to skimmed milk to make it pass as whole milk in making cheese. Such adulteration killed the flavor and quality and no doubt some of the customers. Luckily in America we put down this vicious counterfeiting with pure food laws. But such foreign fats are still stuffed into the skimmed milk of many foreign cheeses. To take the place of the natural butter fat, the phony fats are whipped in violently and extra rennet is added to speed up coagulation. Fin de Cécile. Norma de France. Although this is an all year cheese, its name dates it back to the years at the close of the 19th century. Fiori di Alpe. Italy. Hard, sharp, tangy. Romantically named, flowers of the Alps. Fiori Sardo. Italy. Use milk. Hard. Table cheese when immature. A condiment when fully cured. Flandre tulde. France. A kind of morale. Morale. Fleur de Deauville. France. A type of brie. In season December to May. Fleur de Alpe. Sea. Belpai. And Miele Fiori. Fleur de Oost. Norway. Like J. de Oost, but not so rich because it is made of cow's milk. Flotost. Norway. Although the name translates cream cheese, it is made of boiled whey. Similar to my sauce, but fatter. Flour. England. Soft and fragrant with petals of roses, violets, marigolds and such delicately mixed in. Since the English are so fond of oriental teas, scented with jasmine and other flowers, perhaps they imported the idea of mixing petals with their cheese, since there is no oriental cheese for them to import except mean curd. Fodder cheese. A term for cheese made from fodder in seasons when there is no grass. Good fresh grass is the essence of all fine cheese, so silo or barnfed cows can't give the kind of milk it takes. Fulgiano. Apulia, Italy. A member of the big pecorino family because it's made of sheep's milk. Fond fromage de, si, he. Fondue vacher and si, vacher and fondue. Fontainebleau. France. Named after its own royal commune. Soft, fresh cream, smooth, mellow summer variety. Fontina. Val d'acosta. Italy. Soft, goat, creamy with a nutty flavor and delightful aroma. Fontine de. Franch comte. France. A favorite all year product. Fontinelli. Italy. Semi-dry, flaky, nutty, sharp. Fontini. Parma. Italy. Hard, goat, similar to Swiss but harder and sharper from the same region as Parmesan. Food cheese. USA. An unattractive type of processed mixes, presumably with some cheese content to flavor it. Foray. Also called Dombert. France. The process of making this is said to be very crude and the ripening unusual. The cheeses are cylindrical, 10 inches in diameter and 6 inches high. They are ripened by placing them on the floor of the cellar, covering with dirt and allowing water to trickle over them. Many are spoiled by the unusual growths of bold and bacterium. The flavor of the best of these is said to resemble Rokeforte, from bulletin number 608 of the US Department of Agriculture to which we are indebted for descriptions of hundreds of varieties in this alphabet. Formagelli. Northwest Italy. Soft, right and specially, put up in half-pound packages. Formagi di pasta filata. Italy. A group of Italian cheeses, made by curdling milk with rennet, warming and fermenting the curd, heating it until it is plastic, drawing it into ropes and then kneading and shaping while hot provolone, cacio cavallo, and mozzarella are in this group. Formagini and Formagini del leccio. Italy. Several small cheeses answer to this name, of which leccio is typical. A Lombardi dessert cheese, measuring one and one-fourth by two inches, weighing two ounces. It is eaten from the time it is fresh and sweet until it ripens to pecans. Sometimes made of cow and goat milk mixed, with the addition of oil and vinegar as well as salt, pepper, sugar, and cinnamon. Formaggio d'oro. Northwest Italy. Hard, sharp, mountain made. Formaggio d'oro, dry, and Formaggio tenero. Si nostrale. Fort, si fromage fort. Formae, cantal, and latone. Avern France. This is a big family in the rich cheese province of Avern, where many mountain varieties are baptized after their districts, such as Obra, Aurelia, Gran Morale, Roche, and Salaire. Si form de Albert and Cantal. Form de Montebrison. Avern France. This belongs to the form clan and is in season from November to May. Form de Salaire. Si Cantal, which it resembled so closely, it is sometimes sold under that name. Frisa, or Panadas. Sardinia, Italy. A soft, mild, and sweet cooked cheese. Fribourg, Italy and Switzerland. Hard, cooked curd. Swiss type very similar to Spellen. Si. Frieskass, fresh cheese. Holland. Duck's generic name for any soft, fresh spring cheese, although some is made in winter beginning in November. Friesian. Si, West Friesian. Fromage à la crème, France. One. Sour milk drained and mixed with cream, eaten with sugar. That of Guyane is a noted produce, and so is Dissigni. Two. Franch comté. Fresh sheet milk melted with fresh thick cream, whipped egg whites and sugar. Morvan. Homemade cottage cheese. When milk has soured solid, it is hung in cheese cloth in a cool place to drain, then mixed with a little fresh milk and served with cream. Four. When morvan or other type is put into a heart-shaped wicker basket for a mold and marketed in that, it becomes a cour à la crème, part of cream, to be eaten with sugar. Fromage à la pied. Si fromage blanc just below, and farme. Fromage bavarra à la vanille, France. Dessert cheese sweetened and flavored with vanilla, and named after Bavaria, where it probably originated. Fromage blanc, France. Soft cream or cottage cheese, called à la pied too, suggesting pie à la mode. Also farme from the place it's made. Usually eaten with salt and pepper, in summer only. It is the acidic version of fromage à la crème, usually eaten with salt and pepper and without cream or sugar, except in the province of Bress, where it is served with cream and called fromage blanc à la crème. Every milky province has its own blanc. In Champagne, it's made of fresh milk. In Upper Brittany, it is named after Nathé, and is also called fromage de Corée. Other districts devoted to it are Alsace-Lorraine, Alvern, Languedoc, and Yolte-France. Fromage bleu, C. Bleu de Alvern. Fromage couit, Coupe cheese, Pionville, Lorraine, France. Although a specialty of Lorraine, this Coupe cheese is produced in many places. First it is made with fresh whole cow milk, then pressed and potted. After maturing a while, it is depotted, mixed with milk and egg yolk, re-cooked and re-potted. Fromage de Rigny, C. Aldernay. Fromage de Béon, Béon, France, made with used milk. Fromage de Boit, D. France. Soft, mountain-made, and a fall-only. Resembles pantalé avec crée. Fromage de Bourgogne, C. Burgundy. Fromage de Chevre de Château-Rue, a seasonal goat cheese. Fromage de Corée, C. Nanté. Fromage de Fontenay-les Comtés. Poitou, France. Half goat and half cow milk. Fromage de Gascogne, C. Castellon. Fromage de Pau, C. Le Foncé. Fromage de Saint-Remy, C. Chevre. Fromage de Syrac, Savoye, France. Half and half cow and goat from Syrac de Allume. Fromage de Troyeux, France. Two cheeses have this name, C. Barbary and Irving. Fromage de Vache, another name for Aton. Fromage de Monsieur fromage, Norma de France. This cheese of Mr. Cheese is as exceptional as its name. It season runs from November to June. It comes wrapped in a green leaf, maybe from a grapevine, suggesting what to drink with it. It is semi-dry, mildly snappy, with a peek at pungent's all its own. The playful name suggests the celebrated dish, Poulette de Madame Poulée, Chick of Mrs. Chicken. Fromage Fort, France. Several cooked cheeses are named Fort, strong, chiefly in the Department of Iron. Well-drained currant is melted, poured into a claw and pressed, then buried in dry ashes to remove any whey left. After being fermented eight to ten days, it is grated, mixed with butter, salt, pepper, wine, juniper berries, butter, and other things before fermenting some more. Similar extra-strong cheeses are the one in Lorraine called Fondue and fromagerre of eastern France. Classed as the strongest cheeses in all France. Fort number one, that of Flanders, potted with juniper berries as the gin of this section is flavored, plus pepper, salt, and white wine. Fort number two, that from France Comté. Small dry goat cheeses pounded and potted with thyme, tarragon, leeks, pepper, and brandy, C. Hayesbrook. Fort number three, from Provence, also called Cachat de Entreschot. In production from May to November, semi-hard sheep milk, mixed with brandy, white wine, strong herbs, and seasonings well maintained. Fromagerre, fat cheese. Savoy, France. Soft round fat ball called T. Desmorde, death's head. Winter-brie is also called grau, but there is no relation. This macabre name incited Victor Moussi to these lines. Nezhan a de mer morose, renant la tête de Monde. People of a morose disposition take the death's head. Fromage mou, any soft cheese. Fromage picante, si remoudant. Fromagerre, si canculote. Fromage de chevre, or Leonet, France. Small dried goat milkers. Frustreau, also known as breakfast and lunch cheese. Small rounds, two and a half to three inches in diameter. Limburger type, cheeses on which many Germans and Americans break their past. Ftino porino, Macedonia, Greece. Cheap smoker, similar to Brinsa. End of chapter 18. Recording by Miriam Esther Goldman.