 Let me show you what this bad boy can do. Hey guys, welcome back to another episode of Titanium Man Garage, and today I have a 2004 Polaris Sportsman 500. I decided I'm going to go through the whole process of what I do when I tear something apart. The story behind this is a guy thinks the engine locked up. I'm just wondering if it's a piston, so we're going to be tearing that engine apart. First of all, I'm going to take the plastics off and show you guys how I do it. There's a lot of guys that they won't pick the headlight pot off and they'll try to get the plastics off around it. They say it's a pain in the butt and if you do it the right way, it's actually really easy to get the front fenders off. It takes me like 15 to 20 minutes. So you don't need a lot of tools to take the front end apart. I've got the rack off already. It's a T25. So I already disassembled that. That pops off, the four screws. Now I'm going to take the bumper off so I can get the plastics. So I'm going to unplug the lights and you grab a half inch socket. Go to town taking the bumper off. Now this has a wench on it. So I'm going to have to watch where the wires go. Or a lot of times I just set the bumper on the bucket. But that works. Brush guard on it. Longer bolts. But these are the half inch. There's two bolts on this side. Two bolts on the other. The wench right here. I'm feeling lazy so I'm not going to do that. My bolt's in a tray so. The ear which I see is missing. And there's a nut for the bolt at the bottom of the end right here. Which always makes things worse because the guy messed with it. You don't know what he did. Wrong. So I guess we're going to find out. Three bolts going up the fender flare. I'm going to take a half of those off. And then I'll do the other side. Screw and nut at the bottom of the bolt. It's on the fender. It doesn't even bolt on. That's funny. Makes my job easier. The guy pulled the clutch off because that was actually a good idea. He wanted to know what the noise was. He thought the clutch was making noise. So he immediately pulled the clutch off. And then went from there. Realized that it wasn't the clutch. The bolt's here. And for some of you that have never done this. Take pictures of how the wires and the throttle and choke cable go. So I've seen so many guys take this apart. And then the choke cable was wrapped around Goofy and then the guy couldn't figure out why it idled bad. They've always wanted to try to put it back the way it was. As you're going to have issues with your throttle cable. You unplug your effect sensor from the speedo. And there's another clutch here that you press in and plugs up from the speedo. This is where it starts to get a little tricky because there's little rubber bands on the highlight. Just pop it off that clip. One on each side. And then what I do is take the key out. Take this nut off. And just let that hang loose. Then you can unplug the light and pop that on. And then once you get your choke cable unscrewed. Two screws down here. There's one on this side, one on this side. And we're going to slide that thing up. I know the lighting isn't that great in here today. Just have to bear with me. I said, guy taking apart again. The little rubber band on the headlights. Headlight. It's a little equipped. It's disconnected. You can use a one inch wrench on plastic nut. Get that loose. I think that's one eighth on the choke. Or you can just use the pliers that I like using this. So for me, I just like getting all the plastics out of the way. I'll take the gas tank off. Now I can drain the gas. Just using bad gas in there. I'm going to push that against the switch in. And I'll pull up on this hub plate. Those two screws I showed you. I'm going to take those out. And I'm going to plug the trigger out later. So this is a long video. Are you guys ready for a long video? It's Friday for me. So I might have to have a beer while I'm doing this. But when you're self-employed, there it is Friday, right? These are bent. I'm putting these up to get them out of the way. Watch your wires in your clips, so you don't want to break any plastic clips off. Alright, so everything's free. I'll take the gas cap off. I should be able to pull the plastic off. Like I said, if you haven't done this before, this is your chance to take pictures. It's much nicer. You just take the pull box off, pull the plastic back, and boom, you're done. So I'm going to take the fuel tank off. And that is a T25 Torx head for the bolt. So let me show you my little trick on how I like to get the gas tank off. Without removing too many fuel lines. Let me take this little screw out. I already got it loose. Pull that off. Remove this plastic nut. Oh, and just probably make sure your fuel shut off too, which I'm going to do quick. Fuel's off. Now to unplug your fuel line from the pulse pump, which I have the clip disconnected already. And of course the fuel shut off does not work, because it's leaking. So hold on a minute. Put yourself vice grips or hose clamp onto that. So I'll push out. And there's wiring in the way. That'll push out while I'm lifting up on this. I'm going to have to put these tire wraps, because the guy's got the winch on here. And then the whole thing should pull right out. I'll tell you, you'll know if this thing's got bad gas, because it really stinks in here. And not that kind. Stale old gas probably has ethanol on it. Remember my lazy part? Once I got the fenders off, I mounted that back in place through a bolt-in just to hold it in. Tank is now off. If you do have a fuel sending unit, you'll have to unplug that before you take the tank out. Look at that. Yeah, that's why it didn't start. That's kind of funny. Alright, so I'm going to start tearing this thing apart. Yeah, I think I'm going to first start with taking the rocker cover off. See what I got going on. See if this thing turns over freely. And go from there. And just start disassembling the engine. Take the exhaust off. I got that footboard out of the way. Alright, so here's what I'm finding out so far. Pull the starp rope and feel like a little, I don't know, little tiny clunk in there. So I'm going to tear this top end apart and see if it's the piston skirt. Maybe there's chunks at the bottom of the case. I don't know. But I got a half rope to part already. Got the exhaust off. Drain the coolant. In the middle of taking the timing chain off. I took the tensioner off. Just pull that out. I'm going to pull that gear out. You got two 10mm bolts here. And then this is a 12.14mm I'm going to pull them off. And we're going to pull the jug off and see what I got. Alright, so my battery went dead, which is kind of unfortunate. I would have showed how to take this apart. I explained the bolts. Need the 14mm from the top heads. Took the timing chain sprocket off. 2.8mm here. Now I'm going to pop that jug off. Also on the other side, there's 2.17mm bolts that go to the oil lines. And then unplug the wire going to the head for the temperature sensor. So I'm going to go ahead and take this off. I keep in mind I'm thinking I'm pretty much going to have to tear the bottom end out. So I'm not worried about the timing chain. If I thought I'd just have to do a top end I would make sure I hung this up and got great. And I also found out the ground wire from the top of the engine was missing. It goes to the motor to the frame. So somebody must rebuilt this already. I'm going to see what we got. One more thing. I forgot to take this hose off. Hopefully it's just the cylinder. The cylinder looks good. The connecting rod on the crankshaft. I can get you in here. It looks really burnt. This is stuff that's not even moving. So yeah, we're looking at a bottom end here. So that was my issue. So the guy was correct. Something to bottom end. What I did notice was there was a lot of fuel in the reservoir. I pulled the dipstick out and it was over full and there was a lot of fuel in there. So that was telling me that the oil was pretty thinned out. My guess is the carb probably leaked and when your carb leaks it leaks right into the cylinder. Goes to the bottom of the engine. Thins out your oil and this is what you get. End result. See how that's all burnt down here. This is stuff that won't even turn. So connecting rod bearings are toast. I could just get away with putting a new crankshaft in but I do have a bunch of bottom ends. If you've been watching my channel you know how I like to take 425s and convert them into a 500. I think they're a little more snappier so I think I'm going to do that. I prefer that. You know I'm not saying you should do that. That's just my preference. Alright guys so I figured it out. Pull the pull-start cover off. Bend X gear. Slowly stuck open. Flywheel is so rusted if you look back here. It's nasty. The guy swamped this thing. Water got in there and rusted everything tight. It should have no matter when I went to pick it up. Actually it was the border of Wisconsin snowing out. I was sitting under a foot of snow. The guy never covered it up. Never protected it. I didn't do anything. Either he swamped it or he just let it sit out in the snow. I don't know. My guess would be swamping it. So there's a lot of stuff going on here. Pick up coils rusty. So I'm going to pull that flywheel off. Inspect the starter. Inspect the stator. Yeah I'm just basically going to tear this whole bottom end out. Alright let's get that rusty flywheel pulled off. Shot a little PB blaster in there first. Loosen up. I'll see if I can get this thing to pop. Look at that. That thing's dirty. Look at that. It's all crusty. I have to clean that up. I just got to take the two bolts off the back. Take the stator out. Hang it up somewhere. And this engine's ready to pull. Don't forget to pull your oil lines from the engine. Got two of them. And this is what I disconnected here with the 17 mil. This bad boy's ready to pull. Who wants to watch me pull out my engine? Oh and by the way it's a lot easier if you take the top end off first. Get the engine out. Especially if you're going to do a major rebuild like this. Comes out like a big piece of grease sliding down a hot tin roof. Got my 425 and my 500 in sitting there. Don't know what's wrong with those yet but I'm going to strip them down. Ideally I'm going to take the 425 and build it. Have to see how that goes. See what it looks like inside. Alright let's see how oily I got. Put this bucket here. The cooler dog. Starter's disconnected. Easy peasy. And I'll probably clean up all this crap underneath here. Pressure wash it. This machine's pretty clean. Oh I see I got a broken motor mount. We'll be replacing that too. So let's build some engines. Let me show you what I got going on with this engine that I pulled out of the O4. Connecting rod shot. If you can see in there. It's stiff. It won't turn until it was overheated. Like I said the guy probably has carb leaking. And all the fuel ran into the oil, thinned out the oil. Overheated the crank connecting rod. So I talked about building a 425 into a 500. And I've done this about four times. I was warned one year I think it's like a one year old only. Won't convert to a 500. And I happened to stumble across it. This I believe is a 1996. The hole's a little different. I've got a good 500 motor here. You can see the opening in the case is bigger than that one. So just to kind of warn you guys I've posted videos in the past about converting a 425 into a 500. Not all years will work. So I'm going to take this 500. Got her all cleaned up. Piston's good. It was actually pulled from a unit that a friend of mine he buys them and he parts them out. Guy said the motor didn't run really well. Well I tore this thing apart. This thing is clean as a whistle. The piston rings. The piston's good. The cylinder's good. Let me show you why. So here's the reason why it ran like crap. You've seen some of my older videos. I've talked about replacing rubber fuel lines, rubber vent lines, everything. So this is the rubber vent line that goes on the engine here. Well it was soft. It folded over. Probably collapsed. And made the motor run like crap. So, bonus for me because this motor is in excellent condition. So I'm just going to hone out the jug and rebuild it. Alright, so I'm going to fuck it. There's a little cutting oil in there. Very gently. You bought 10 times of the dollar first. Not sure if you can see that in the camera. Got really good cross hairs on the cylinder wall. I'm going to clean this up and install it. Alright, ready to slap this thing together. I am. What I like to do is take a little oil. Throw it in the cylinder. Kind of lube everything up. Piston slides in the cylinder real nice. My base gasket here. And now the fun part. Doing this to two people is a little easier. One person. One person. Not so easy. I do have a piston ring compressor here. So I'm going to decide if I'm going to do that or if I'm going to use my fingers. Sometimes I've been lucky if I can use my hands. I've got a pretty tight grip. Squeeze the rings in and slide the jug on. Sometimes it doesn't work. So, let's see what happens. Maybe I'll get lucky. And for the tricky part I've got that out. I've got a screwdriver in here. Put the screwdriver in to kind of lock the connecting rod in place. These get torqued down to 49 to 50 foot-pounds. There. What I like to do is I've got the new piston in. Clean up my oil a little bit. Check the action. It's open down good. So at this point put everything on the engine as much as I can before I put it in. So, put my hose on here. Make sure your oil lines are tightened up and they're fastened on. And one thing I'm liking about this this is a this engine the cylinder was bored over already .25 which is great. More power, more power. I love it. So I'm going to put this on. I'm actually going to install the engine just like that into the wheeler. And I'm going to put the head on top of it. I found out it's lighter. It's easier to handle. You can build the whole engine and try to weasel it in but it's kind of a pain. That's just what I like to do. I found a couple shortcuts over the years. And also by judging by the piston and the cylinder looks like there's barely 2000 miles on the rebuild. I'm not really concerned about it. There was a lot of carbon deposits on the top of the piston which I cleaned off. Ideally you'd want to install a new piston and if your cylinder looked bad you'd want to board out or at least honed out. But after seeing how the last engine was I got a good feeling about this. A couple times before I mean this is going to be my own personal four wheeler so if something goes wrong with it it's no biggie. I could always tear it back down and rebuild it and once I install the engine I'll use the air gun blow everything off, clean the surface off make sure everything's clean before I install the head gasket. Alright let's get on it. So I hooked up the soles too because that's such a pain in the butt to get in. The remote bolts in with that plate there's actually an access hole frame underneath. Get everything done as much as you can before you get everything back together makes life a lot easier. Alright guys I've built quite a few engines and I've gone over this a bunch of times. I always recommend going to my video that I have I'll post a link for it how to build an engine but I'll go over the torquing sequence for the head so it's I don't know a couple step process it's the first time I'm going to go with 22 foot pounds first cross pattern 52 yeah it's kind of goofy because you've got to tighten it then loosen it then tighten it then loosen it it's 22 foot pounds then tighten it to 52 foot pounds then loosen quarter turn and another quarter turn and then you tighten it to 11 foot pounds and then you mark it and it's half turn to half turn so you notice I'm doing it in a crisscross pattern 11 now I know you can only see the top two bolts right here right here and then I mark the bottom two bolts half turn in and another half turn in that's why I put the marks on so I watched this video years ago and the guy that was doing the head gasket said oh just torque it down to 52 pounds and you'll be good I messaged him a year later hey how did it hold up guess what he never replied probably leaked another trick I like to do after an engine build is now that I got this far I'll put my motor mounts on before I put my stator on I'll tilt this wheeler on an angle like this and with a funnel I'll pour like a quart of oil in here that way there's already oil in the engine when you go to fire it up it's already pre lubed and like you saw I did put oil in the cylinder already so when this thing fires up it's not firing up dry alright guys here we have it fresh rebuild went through the cooling system burnt the air out of the the coolant make sure the TPS is adjusted correctly after cleaning the car after you clean your car but install your cables make sure there's a gap in here a lot of guys will clean their carbs without this and the gap will be closed there's a little turn thing here so if I turn this all the way in see now it's closed it won't start turn this out make sure you got a little gap in there make sure you got a little finger play in here step one step two burp the system I had the radiator cap off I let it run for about 10 minutes got a little air out of the system it should have kicked in I believe at 165-170 it should have kicked in also seeing it was a fresh rebuild I also turned it on let it run for 5 minutes shut it off let it cool down start it up let it run for another 5 minutes and then it's good to go I want to make sure I got oil through the whole engine before letting it run letting it rip I need an air filter this bad boy is ready to go back together not crazy about that camouflage purple some guys like it some don't I'm not a fan of it my son likes it so this one I'm probably going to keep and put the purple back on and let it rip alright guys hope you liked this video turned on a 500 engine rebuilding it got a couple odds it ends to finish up here got it all buttoned up put it back together thumbs up if you liked the video and like always till next time