 Hello everybody and welcome to another hobby-cheating video and today it's time to talk all about speed paint 2.0 metallics Let's get into it. The strict techno man sir that is Vincy V. Let us get to the technique and learn it Vincy V style long time fans the channel will know that I am an elitist One might even call me a snob when it comes to metallic paints. I wear that badge proudly I've used basically every metallic paint that's on the market and frankly most of them just don't live up to Well actually looking like metal and that's a real problem for me when I saw these new speed paint 2.0 metallics the idea of sort of contrast metallics I was pretty fascinated because as I looked at them and started experimenting with them. They were quite liquidy They actually came together pretty well And so this led me to say all right there might be something here So today we're gonna put speed paint 2.0 metallics through the paces Do some comparisons and see exactly if these things are a new tool in our arsenal when painting metallic paints So let's head over to the desk. Let's start experimenting All right, we're gonna be using five metallic paints today There are more in this range the range is bigger, but I thought I'd test with five So two different steels a sort of dark steel and a bright silver a Sort of coppery color and then two golds one that's sort of supposed to be kind of a mid-tone gold and one that's supposed to be a Bright gold. I thought that would be a reasonable test, but do keep in mind. There are More in this range. The first thing you'll notice is that they are quite liquid Which is great. They're not gummy like we get with some bad metallics I've prepped up 20 different little gut plate shield type things here And I've primed them all in different ways and I want to see how the paints react over the different surfaces Or over the different under shade colors One thing to note right out of the gate is the side of the bottle does quite specifically say use over a bright white or a gray So I know I'm actively going against the recommendations But what interested me about that was Normally with especially steel metallics you want them to go over a sort of glossy black So it's actually a bit unusual that you would want them to go over something bright Normally that quite diminishes the effect of most metallic paints Here what I'm noticing as I'm applying these over the black is that despite having a really nice metal sheen They are still quite Translucent and showing a fair amount of the under shade underneath So when going over sort of straight black, you're really not getting the effect you get something pretty muted pretty dull As far as the color goes Which actually could be an advantage in certain cases If you're looking for sort of a necro gold a dead gold something like that running it straight over black You actually get that effect pretty cleanly and concisely When I moved on to the brighter colors here, so this is basically been primed in sort of an ivory color now the metallics came through really bright and strong and shiny and Even the steel colors and the interesting part here about this one was the darker steel Over the very bright white color I actually did see the contrast effect kind of happening and you'll you'll see that as we go on as The sort of flow improvers or other chemicals in here did pull away from the very edges and sort of gather some in the recesses so although the Quote-unquote sort of one coat contrast effect whatever like you would get with the matte paints is It's not really there with most of these metallics. It is there a little with the darker steel, which I did appreciate As I said before in videos metallics are rarely ever and I don't I don't expect them to be one coat done So I thought this was it was still nice to see that that effect actually was present to some degree Looking at these though what I like is over the brighter colors They go over in one coat very clean very shiny high reflectivity high opacity While still also Allowing some of that translucent through I it's very hard to explain because I'm kind of mystified That I'm both getting a good shine and a good opacity but also it's still clearly being influenced by what's underneath and you'll really see that here in the Xenothal item so this was just a standard these were all just Xenothal black to white and I actually really like the effect that came out of this. I think for a lot of tabletop type Jobs for people who don't want to go and you know waste a lot of their life frankly on You know doing NMM techniques on on metallics Stuff like how the middle copper came out over the black looks really good really natural You get some of that black blue infused tones down in the shadows The gold is the same way it turns a little more Turned a little more blue green than I wanted but that's gonna prompt something later So you'll see how this kind of moves my thinking as we as we move through the testing Then finally I wanted to try it over brown So this was one of those things traditionally a lot of people have been like well with your gold paint You just got to undercoat the entire area and brown first I'm not doing that ever. I refuse to do that. That is stupid I'm not painting something twice just because it needs to be because I'm dealing with bad metallics What an awful waste of time in your life that is But I thought how do these things do is there a sort of noticeable different if they're over a kind of mid-tone brown And what I'll say is I think the results are at best average Where it worked best was in fact exactly as what the side of the bottle says so Hey truth in advertising I suppose or whatever They worked best over a you know mid-tone to bright color and so you can see them all here and You can see over the black how they look kind of dead you move to the white You get really bright intense ones the zenithal you get to preserve that nice transmission of color and then the brown They do get a little warmer So there is some variation there that is pulling through from all of the different elements As you saw in the first test these things do actually have some amount of Contrasting nature to them. It's not very strong to be honest, but I don't really care I find the idea of doing like the one coat thing with this pretty pointless What I mean is like can I get a highlight and a shade out of one application with a metallic paint? That's never going to be true I always feel you need to apply additional tones treating your true metallic metals like non-metallic metals, so I didn't expect this to be magic But what fascinated me was actually to shine the finish in the opacity Part of that certainly comes from the suspension here and part of it comes from the fact that these Much like the Vallejo metal color. I love uses aluminum powder Aluminum pigment pigment basically very finely ground aluminum So most metallic paints use mica flakes ground down and frankly mica just doesn't look like actual steel or gold or things like that The normally everything starts from a mica and then it's anodized into these different colors Here we're starting from aluminum powder, which is more expensive Admittedly but produces a much much higher quality metallic because a it's real metal B It has a much more natural shine when applied as long as you get your suspension, right? And I'm happy to see in my application so far that it looks like they very much did However, I've noticed that you have to apply it over lighter colors. There is a real like this absolutely does show some of the Color underneath up through and so when these go over very bright colors They actually get really bright and intense When they're over dark colors, they get really muted And this is actually the opposite of a lot of other steels where you would have put them over a glossy black or something like that Traditionally, whereas here you actually get the most intense results over something like an ivory or a white or of anything Bright in that sort of value spectrum. So interesting change for my normal expectations, but honestly some pretty great results But of course, we don't paint tiny little gut plates We paint models and so here is some old rat cast I had converted more than I ended up needing to paint and I thought these would be great since they're storm cast and have a lot of metal and armor And it led to my unusual zenithal priming So what I did was instead of a standard zenithal of black to white I zenithal primed it in brown to white using a sort of deep or mid-tone to deep brown as an under shade And then a brighter white as the top level And I thought that would be a really interesting test because in you know as I worked with the shields What occurred to me and what it what it really seemed was that the the warm brown tones did give a nice rich color Especially to the gold But also they they got really shiny and reflective when they were over white So I thought let's put the best of both worlds together This will prevent the shadows from going blue and turning kind of green when you get yellow plus blue Hey, that makes green And I found that I really liked how this came out and you can be the judge if you you think this is on the level But you know overall I just kind of turned all the gold parts gold for the steel I noticed it had a lot less variation Over the the individual elements like the steel was pretty true to its color Regardless of What it was happened to be over it just kind of always looked like steel My thought here was that if you you know dark steel if you put it over the black It looks like pretty dark steel if you put it over the white it looks like pretty bright steel. So okay The next test was can you paint over top of it if you do want to execute those sort of non-metallic strategies so I thinned down a little rhinox hide and See if we can get some some shadows built in here And I'm happy to say this sort of thin glazes of this rhinox hide actually worked really well So layers of paint lay over the top of this without issue Despite how really smooth it lays down So that was a good test and then I thought okay, let's do some highlighting so I grabbed some of the silver color and Worked it as the highlights on these the various elements of the the armor and once again had no issues here The metals can all go on top of each other and lay on top of each other There was no Reactivation no nothing like that no no negative issues for painting on top of these either with standard acrylic paints or additional Speed paint 2.0's in all cases. I was able to structure and create my non-metallic infused highlights Exactly the same as I would with my Vallejo metal color And you can see I just kind of work my way around the figure both hitting some of the edges as well as you know Creating some small highlights on the gold Next up, let's put it to the test. So if we like this stuff, how does it compare against my gold recipe? So this was from a previous video. You can find that linked up above But this is my complicated gold recipe That's meant to mimic what real 24 karat gold looks like And so I'm going to paint this figure literally half and half So right now I'm just painting my gold recipe This is my mix of everything Vallejo metal color and the pigment and all of that right on one side and then I did the Bright glittering gold on the other side And the first thing that I noticed here is that This gold like many golds that are out there on the market for miniature paints is much much much more yellow than actual 24 karat gold Uh, so you know real sort of traditional 24 karat gold is not actually very yellow But I suppose golden armors don't necessarily have to be that way So really this comes down to taste as to what tone or hue you like in your gold And I will say there are multiple different uh hues including a very green gold in the speed paint range So you you do have your choice as to what you're doing there Next up, I wanted to compare a little bit of the the two steel colors. So here I'm using the dark steel And we're gonna this is this is actually Vallejo metal color steel first the first thing I apply in all of these comparisons will be the Vallejo metal color and then on the other side We will the second paint will be the the new one so Now we're we're Going to go ahead and apply the darker steel and this as well as really showed the difference I like the the dark steel from speed paint, but it is much more blue and fused now They actually have an enchanted steel that's even more blue But this one that one's really blue Then I wanted to compare the silvers So this is just the Vallejo metal color silver we're applying first very bright One of my favorite metal paints of all time as it's so intense and really really bright And you notice that the silver here from Army painter honestly when held up to the reflection Looks almost identical And that's great. What that means is where we've got the light hitting We're getting the same intensity the same shine the same true metallic reflection So so that's really great I thought I'd do a little comparison on the flat of the shield just to see if it looked any different there Again starting with the Vallejo metal color silver and then we'll do the brighter silver Next now with the side by side when they're right there You'll notice when they're outside of the lights reflection The silver from army painter isn't quite as intense. It's a little more muted But when put under the direct reflection what I liked is it does have that nice true shine And here then you can see the figure nice and half and half everything is truly half and happy split right down the middle And you know, you can see a little bit of a difference in the shield again as I sort of rotate it between the light though It looks pretty darn similar Maybe a little more bluey the golds are a little more yellow as I mentioned, but they still have a really high shine They still look really really nice They've got that reflectivity that you really that you really want to see The final test for these is can they airbrush? Because obviously Vallejo metal color is an airbrush metallic paint and it's my go-to right now And oftentimes you want to put your metals through an airbrush for doing things like tanks or You know vehicles or walkers or stuff like that Or anything and so This i'm using a 0.2 needle. I wanted to give it that the hardest test possible A very very small needle. This is a this is a 0.2. I thinned this down with my standard Mix of flow improver and thinner 80 20 thinner to flow improver I thinned this three drops of paint to or sorry three drops of thinner to five drops of paint and So about a little less than a 1 to 2 ratio And it came out really really great it airbrush without a problem I never had any dry tipping nor clogging or anything like that. I was able to Work my way around the model. I'm working fairly thin as I always do But as you can see I got a really nice final shine everything applied very very cleanly very easily Then I go ahead and i'm going to try some of the gold here Yet again Just doing it over the top I thought it might be an interesting transition to see how they all kind of look on top of each other And sure enough, but you know looked great nice rich tone came out without an issue yet again All i'm doing is my my simple quick fast airbrush cleaning just rinsing it out with water Takes like 20 seconds in between each color change And i'm not getting any kind of clogging or build up or anything like that And you can see I really like the gold over top of that copper really provides a nice rich tone Finally, I thought I'd lay some silver over the top just you know very very lightly and sure enough again, no problem at all All of these different paints airbrushed really really simply and easily So to me they passed every test I could throw in front of them And here's how he looks all told with all of those colors airbrushed on him overall A really great response from the army painter metals So there you go overall I have to say I'm pretty impressed by these It was a real interesting learning to see how much different they looked working over the different under shades And oftentimes most of us I if you're a fan of this channel if you're like me You're probably zenithaling a lot of your miniatures. You're not working over straight black So I think in most of those cases this is going to work really well Over things like a value sketch or a zenithal or a slap chop These are honestly going to actually provide real contrast That's what I ended up seeing when the figure itself has some kind of zenithal transition to it because the metallics have that Uh that translucent to them you not only get the metallic shine But you also do get a real change in the tone And so I'm interested to continue experimenting with these and see what we can do But I have to say these are a new part of my rotation I don't know if it'll replace my ultimate gold recipe But what I will say is certainly for things like the coppers and the bronzes. I am all in on those These are the nicest tones I have found of these and they are absolutely going to be part of my regular rotation Anytime I'm looking in that copper bronze brass area. I think these are perfect I would encourage you to give them a try out yourself Just because I think they're actually pretty good So with that, I'll say if you liked this, hey, give it a like subscribe for additional hobby cheating We have new videos here every Saturday. If you've got any questions I didn't answer feel free to drop those down in the comments below As always though, if you want to support this channel You can do so through the merch store below through any of the links below to purchase stuff or by joining our patreon Patreon is our patreon is focused on review and feedback and taking your next step on your hobby journey We'd love to have you as part of the community Thank you so much for watching this one. I really appreciate it. And we'll see you next time