 Everyone here has a no-heat call on a residential unit and basically they lost power last night and they're wanting us to see what's going on so if I get permission to record it, I'll do it. Something I don't usually do is record the residential stuff but I'm starting to help out a little bit with some of the apprenticeship program at our workplace and so I was asked to make a few videos recording the stuff just as long as I got customer permission. If I do get permission, I will make the video. Yeah, we're going to check and see if we got our power coming into it so let's check that first. There's our primary coming in so let's see if we got it. So I got it to there. Well, I'll leave you though. Oh, no, that's fine, whatever. Okay. If you're interested, that's fine. More you know, the more it helps take care of the little problems. All right. Okay, there's 122. All right, good. So we got 122 coming into it. That means our transformer probably went out so is it a power switch for this that we can turn off? I think so. Is that it? Yep, that's it. So let's check our resistance here on our secondary. It comes in at 1.2. What our primary is. Yeah, you can smell it. It's burnt. So it took the transformer out, hopefully that's all it took out. Yeah, our primary, our primary is completely open. We have no resistance on it all. So that is one way you can find out, because if it was on our secondary, we know there's a short on the other side of the transformer, basically the load side of the transformer, but there's not. We know it's on the primary. So that means it was a voltage issue coming in. So something took it out on the voltage side of things, which the customer said they had problems with the power going out and coming back on. And then they had no heat afterwards. So one system worked, one didn't, and that's what we got so far. That thing's toasty critter. Oh yeah. I've sold that before. Yeah, you can see it got kind of warm there. That transformer right there is maybe the only problem? Hopefully so. Because I mean, for not to damage your zone system and all that, it's really amazing. So was it running by chance, do you know, when it did all that weird stuff? No, it didn't. Okay. Let me use these funny little small ones. We'll put those on there. All right. You want to go ahead and turn it back on? We'll see if it blinks. Yeah, we got power. Check that out. The range is right at about eight. So that sounds about right. This is a pretty good size for a 120,000 D2 and five tons geothermal. Now we can put it in auxiliary heat and make sure that's working too. That way we check everything before we go. Yes. Okay. And now, and now, reveal me this. Sure. I turned this off here and it would come right back on, but then when I, this would like make a hum noise. Yeah. But then when I lay it some sort, yeah, right now it's just getting to G signal only. So the thermostat probably is waiting. We don't just fix one problem and leave and make sure everything else is working right. Check our water temperatures coming in and out. This is a five ton unit. Yeah. 64. So we'll look for 64 here. 64. We've got entering water temperature at 30 degrees, going over to full load, which we don't have the second stage energized yet. But your water temperature drop will be between four and six and we're right at five. So so far, pretty close to being where we need to be at. So we need to get her into the second stage and then we'll make sure. All right. So we're going to check our pressure drop across the coaxial coil. So we take our gauge here and we've got our incoming here. So we've got right at 42 pounds. Yeah, 42 pounds. So we can note that 42 here and then we'll come back at the top, come into there, right at about 40, 39, let's just say 39. So it's a mixture between 39 and a half. So either way, we've got three pound differential. So come down to here, we find out what is our gallons per minute. So on a 64, at a 30 degree outdoor temperature, a three pound drop is going to be about 14 gallons per minute. That's total gallons per minute for the whole system. Now we've got two systems here, you got a two ton and you got a five ton and they basically share the loop between the two of them. So they go to the circulator pumps. This is what drives the water out up over and goes outside the house and goes out into the yard and there's a large ground loop, water loop out there. So that water goes out into the ground, loops back horizontally. It's got to be calculated out but it's well over probably a thousand foot of total line then comes back into the machine. So this is where your calculations of your temperature and water come into play. So we're running a grand total of 14 gallons per minute. Okay you got a 64 and that one's a 26. So let's say two ton and five ton, so you get seven ton, seven times two gallons per minute would be 14 gallons per minute. So we got about two gallons per ton per unit. And then when you do this you should have your hot water generator, which this right over here goes up over and it's not located around here, but that is going to go to their water heater so you get some free heat. It'll temper the water before it goes into the water heater. You'll get your most savings generally in the summertime when you don't want the heat and it's going to go into that tank. If it's a gas water heater, usually we use two tanks. One's just a buffer tank and the other one's the actual normal hot water tank. And same thing with electric sometimes, just depends. So we got that there. So that should be off, which we can pull that wire off down here, that's 120 volts. So that'll shut that one down. Make sure it don't shorten anything. This unit here is a two stage unit, so we don't know if it's running in two stage yet. But like I said, we know we're running the right gallons per minute, so we come back down to here and look at the 64 at 30 degrees that we're running right actually about two gallons per ton if it ever takes. We're going to do with that middle one right here. Like I said, we have 14 gallons total capacity on this unit. You have a total of about seven tons of cooling if it ever takes a little touch there. So it's two gallons per ton. So here's your two gallons per ton coming across with no active hot water generator, which is what we unhooked here, that circulator pump. That circulator pump there runs the water to the water here. So you don't want that running because it's going to steal heat away from the system and skew your numbers. Our air rise should be 21 to 27 degrees. Water temperature should be six to eight. So we come back in here and check our temperatures. We're running right at 26 and a half degrees. We did have 33 originally. Sometimes that leak's just got to poke at it and make it stop. Or you can just put the cap back on. So we're at 33 degrees. Do your math there. Just say it's 27, so we're at six. So really about six and a half degrees. What are we supposed to be coming down to your 30 mark? Six to eight. So we're right in there. This is why you don't put your gauges on it because no sense of putting it in there if you don't need to. So that is how you calculate whether or not the system's performing right. It's just like a regular air conditioner. If you're low on refrigerant, your temperature drop's going to suck. Your condenser's not going to be very hot. So it's the same thing here. Your water is not going to react. So it's the same thing. This is basically a regular air conditioner. You've got a scroll compressor here. You've got a metering device. It's a TXV. You've got a reversing valve back there in the back. You've got a three-way valve depending on where you're from. Some people call it different things. You've got a regular old contactor and a control board here. The refrigerant ports are right here. And back here in the back you have a coaxial coil. That's a tube and tube design. And so the water from the outside loop goes around the outside of the refrigerant line. It's inside of it. That's how it extracts. It rejects the temperature of the refrigerant. There, it just changed pitch. It just went to second stage. And the blower just speeded up. So now we can retake our measurements. So anyhow, back to how this works. Basically that's a tube and tube design there. And that's how it extracts, rejects the heat from the refrigerant lines into it. I also have a demonstration of how a commercial one works, which is the same thing. This is a dual fuel system. So we have a 95%, 93% furnace there. And here is a design of a water heater being fed from the geothermal. I'm trying to cover a bunch of things at once. Here we are, two tank system. Basically we're coming out, going into the water tank, coming in and going out. So this right here, indoor compressor section, double water tank, typical hot water generator. So they'll come into the bottom through the drain port. They have a tee with the drain. It goes into there. A lot of times just shut down your electric water heater elements if it's an electric one. It just depends. Like this is two electric ones and then sometimes with the gas. I don't know if they even show a gas one. Probably not because they're all about electrical. Doing the electric thing here. So that's how those tanks wire up. This one says carrier on it. This is the four carrier bottle, which I believe used to be Florida heat pump. This one's made by Climate Master. So now we're running our second stage. We're at 24. So we're getting a little bit better drop out it because the water's going to come in warm. It's going to go out colder because you're extracting the heat out of it. So at 24 going out and I think we have a 32 point something. So that's eight degrees right there. And that's what we showed on the other chart here. So water drop should be between six and eight. We had six on low. We had eight on high. So the heat pump's working fine. Now what I'm going to do on the furnace, I'm going to check the condensate trap. Make sure it's clean. And then depending on how long it's been since we've done a service on it, we just did it. Okay. So really most of that's already probably been done then. There's a lot of times what I'll do is I'll go ahead and clean out the condensate trap here because those tend to get plugged up. And then the flame sensor's up here in the top. This customer is really cool and was okay with us recording. Like I said, I'm trying to make these just to help out some of the young guys. We have some apprentices that we're starting with our own company. And we're going to use these to train them because you can't always have them with you. So our draft motor came on. Push up down. And I'll drop down to a low fire. This is propane gas. So we've got a little bit of orange in there. That's normal. The flame is blue right now. Yeah. Because at first startup, a lot of times you'll have dust. Like if I take my fingers and kind of put them over here like this. You'll see how orangey it gets. 68 degrees return. All right. The battery went dead. So I didn't get the temperature rise on video. So we had 68 going in on the return. And we had 92 coming out. So we had a 24 degree delta T. The average per the chart was 21 to 27. So we're right in the middle. This is my pressure gauge. It's just a regular suction pressure gauge. Inside there is a little port to slow down the fluttering. So I drilled that out and just adapt it to a PT pressure port adapter. Adapted it down to the pressure port adapter, which looks like a needle that you'd use on a basketball, football, whatever. So that's how I check my pressures. I like having the negative there because that allows me to see if they've got more issues than just a little bit low. When you're on a pump, a big pump, you can pull into a negative and just it's nice to see that sort of thing. And I had the the gauge laying around. So you don't have to have a high dollar gauges. Today we're doing a bunch of maintenance on geothermal units. And I thought I'd take a second to kind of go over something that I used to have problems with because whenever I asked a question about how do you check a geothermal out, I never got a straight answer. And didn't really understand the water pressure differential on far as how to calculate your gallons per minute. And really didn't understand the temperature drop across your coaxial coil because you want to keep constant flow of water going through there of anywhere from one and a half to three gallons per minute per ton. What we're doing on our check here is we're using the good old field piece robes. Nice thing about these are I can clamp on to the copper and it gets a fast accurate measurement right away. This is on a ground loop system. This particular one, because there's so many of them, have little limo valves here to stop the flow when it's not being used. That kind of helps save your coaxial coil a little bit. Some places use them. Some places don't. We're not going to go real deep into it, but we're basically going to just give you a basic overview of what we got going on here. This one here is a little bit fancier because it has a reheat coil on it and a reheat coil is used for demystification in this particular instance. This valve right here, which is located right there, is a modulating valve. And what it's going to be, if you look and imagine the water coming through this way and basically it's a three-way valve. It's open here, open there, and open there. So in this position here, when it's running in normal mode, that valve's open. It's going right on through. It would try to come this way, but because it's closed right here, it can't go that way, so it only has one way it can go right in and back out. Now when it goes into that reheat mode for demystification, it's going to rotate itself to this position, blocking the water coming in, and it's going to allow it to recirculate on itself. They also have a pump in here, a little circulator, like a little taiko-type-style pump, comes into the coil here that's right after the evaporator, and will just recirculate on itself. What this is going to do is you've got a cold coil and a hot coil, or I should say warm, and they're going to neutralize each other, but you're going to have demystification process go on. So that's how the reheat section works. And then if it's too hot because they have thermistors on there, it'll open up and put it back to normal. You've got a flow valve right in here. Basically you can check your pressure drop there versus outgoing usually, which I think with this one here they're doing it all off of the valve there by itself. Now this one doesn't have two sets of them. Usually say it's a regular geo for like a residential. Pressure ports will be right on the ingoing and outgoing where they come out from the geo itself. The reheat coil that I was talking about earlier is right here. The coil that would have the water coming from out of the coax coil, instead of coming out and going right back into the system, it would come into this coil here. Back behind here is your evaporator. In between there is like a freeze stat. So if by chance you are running this coil to get demystification, that's when that valve over there on the side will either put the water into this coil or to run it in the coax coil, which is located right back here in the back. So this right here is just glycol in it. Depending on the type of system, it could be ethanol, methanol, and polypropylene. Just depends on the type of system you're working on. This particular unit because they're doing kind of a zoning system approach, just used to basic PSC fan motors. Some of the ones you see in the houses generally will have an ECM motor on it. But that right there is a geothermal system. It's a water-to-air system, if you wanted to call it that. Basically a little mini-chiller. You're just pulling the water out of the ground. The ground will hold temperature a lot better than the air does, and you'll either extract it or reject it into the ground loop, which they size that appropriately based on how many tons it is.