 All right, we've got one of these big fancy JVCD series CRTs that's been dropped off for servicing this week and this is a silver edition Check this out. It has a 32 inch tube and just look at the curve on that tube. It's fisheye. See how it bubbles out like that That's hard to see there. You can kind of see the reflection of the BBM screen over here and how it's Gives it that weird warped look so that's that's a cool feature of these tubes They really have a different distinct look because of that shadow mask a bubble screen And here's a look at the front Buttons that are pretty standard for a television from this time. We do have an input on the front for composite video and Also stereo audio. All right, it's the AV 32d 305 120 volts 60 Hertz CRT television from November of 2005 Chassis number a124 and 128 watts if we look down here, this has not been serviced yet, so it's still dirty and It's pretty easy to open up even though. It's very large There's some screws that have tiny arrows pointing to them and if you just undo those screws and then there's a bunch around the sides of This shell and the top just get all these screws out in this shell will pull out and we'll see how It looks inside. I'm going to guess there's a lot of dust in there Here's our input board on the back. Of course. We've got our 75 ohm RF input right here. We also have an input up top that can be S video or composite input number two is all Well, so it looks like maybe you can use this green input as composite video or you can set it up to use component There's a bunch of empty slots here that are blocked off because there are so many different versions of this television You may see different build-outs on your specific model if you have a different model and we're going to open it up We're going to take a quick look inside. We'll see what kind of tube we've got behind here And then we will get the circuit boards out for servicing All right, here we are inside and you can see we've got a lot of dust up here around the anode cap and then on the tube itself just check it out normal amounts of dust for 20 almost years Guarantee this has not been open since it was manufactured back in 2005. We've got way more dust down here and Then the fly back cabling over here in our high deflection area This is a great example of how these parts can get insulated by this dust those capacitors and then that actually will Make them wear out even quicker If you left it like this and just kept using it because that dust would act as an insulator and cause the heat to Build up even higher inside those capacitors and not be able to even dissipate So that would wear out these parts even quicker. So it's always great to get in here and at least clean But this is our main chassis area down here. All right, so let's look at this tube for one quick minute It is an M80 Ju a zero six one X this tube is actually made by Panasonic and Some people claim that this is a very high-end tube and one of the more desirable ones for this JVCD series Now we can look at this yoke over here and this yoke is slightly different than the 36 inch yoke And if you want to go check out more on the 36 inch JVCD series Check out this link right up here And then you can see more about how it looks on the inside this one you can move and manipulate if you need to and It's more of a traditional style yoke than what was what we saw on that 36 inch one and again the tube here It's a shadow mask tube. So we've got three Color guns in there separated and they are shooting our beams onto the screen for our video signal All right, so now I'm just going to disassemble the rest of this We're gonna leave the deflection yoke in place But all the rest of these things are coming with us the boards are gone I wanted to give you one last look at this dirty tube Before it gets a good cleaning It's pretty gross up there We're a lot cleaner now Now the main board's been broken out here and we're ready to go in and install a cap kit now This is a custom new capacitor kit that you can see over here I've got laid out and the areas on this kit are going to be deflection The neck board and in our power area Now thankfully if we look at this board even though it's not like a PVM or BVM or high quality monitor Where everything's separated into different boards This is all on one single board But it is marked as to what each area does so some of these areas for example over in this area Well, this again controls audio So we're not really even concerned with this as long as all the caps test within good tolerances Then we're not going to change them same thing over here in this video chip area These are capacitors that don't age as quickly as these ones over here in the high heat areas And so if they check out fine, we will leave them in place now over in this area is our power supply And all the voltages that will come in from right here This is our main plug that's soldered into place from our wall So the wall voltage comes in here and then it gets transformed into the different usable voltages So we've definitely got these capacitors within this block and you see how it's marked by these lines This is our isolated power area. See how it says isolated and then right where my finger there says power And so this is a good area for us to check the capacitors on but we're doing the just the whole kit on this So we're replacing those that's why they have the marks on them And then if we go over in this area and this is always around The fly back and then these other ICs which control horizontal and vertical deflection And those transistors we need to check these capacitors that are all in these areas They'll control a lot of those deflection Things those are all on the kit and even if we go over into this area Where it says side pin right here Side pin so we want to get in here and change these couple capacitors And everything again is blocked off on this circuit board There's also the neck board over here, which does have just two caps on it. So we'll change those out And that's what we're going to do now is change the caps All right, these boards have been fully serviced And they have been reassembled to a point I just wanted to show you this breakout card here with our additional inputs on it We're also serviced and cleaned in And then if we go over here that we'll just plug right into this spot right here And go over our other inputs like that and we'll snap into place And then we can just take this upstairs And install it with the tube and check out the fruits of our labor Now I wanted to point out one thing before I closed this up and moved on to the next section When I recapped this board, I did notice that some of these capacitors, especially The larger ones you see they have a marking on them I marked them so that I would notice that their orientation was different from all the smaller Capacitors you see down here where you see how this one goes and it points this direction. Well the negative Pole on this capacitor right here points the opposite direction of it The best thing to do when you run into a board like this is to mark the items And always triple check your work before you even reinstall The board and test it so that you don't damage anything But we're pretty much good to go all the solder looks good. There was some spots on here that had to have some solder reflowed But besides that Everything went pretty well. Here's the neck board also got some fresh caps and solder on there So let's just go back up now. We're going to install this with the tube and see how it looks All right, so everything's back in place here, especially our anode cap And we've got our neck board installed All the cabling has been reinstalled Up there in the front and the chassis is in place And we've got it plugged in and the last thing we need to do is power test it And then we'll send a video signal into each of these inputs and see how it looks So here's a quick look at the goodies. I'll be using to test our crt out there First off, I got this later edition of the super nintendo. It has been modified and it outputs RGB as well as s video and composite video It's voltars kit. So that's been done to that and then we've got some other things in here We've got the hd retro vision component cables And then we've got the s video cables from insurrection industries And then we've got some oem cabling there for the composite video Um controller and then the aftermarket preferred Triad power supply. So that's that's all good. We'll get this set up there and we'll see if that Jvc works out Well, first up, we've got a component video and I have this jvc tv remote from another d series It's a 20 inch version of the d series So i'm not sure but maybe we can see if this will work with this set Kind of like the sonys and hey look at that. It's powering up All right, there we go. Look at that. We've got component video I did the brightness turn down on this. Let's turn that up Oh, yeah, that looks great All right, i'm gonna let this warm up a little bit and test the other inputs And then we'll take a final look at it And check out some gameplay or today We're not going to be doing a full calibration video But I did want to show you a couple of things about this tv set First off, you notice sometimes the red will push Harder than the other colors. Now this one has a blue gun pushing just as hard as the red So this particular tube it does not seem to be nearly as an issue Maybe if the green was a little bit more than it would be completely balanced But there apparently is a setting in the service menu that eliminates a lot of that red drive So i'm going to do is i'm going to show you how to get into the service menu for this set by using This remote right here first thing it's set to tv. It's set to vcr And then what we want to do here is we want to press our sleep timer And have it say zero minutes and then we're going to press This video status and display We're going to press those two buttons at the very same time and that'll pull the menu up Okay, so after you press those in that sequence you get this service menu Now the first one over here this v slash c That's supposedly where this correction is needed to be made in the service menu to get the red to come back Into balance But over here number two we can select this and work on deflection if you want to change that You have sound others and really this is the very first time i've gotten into this service menu So i don't know a lot about it yet But we're going to start by just trying to see if we could fix this vc And i'm going into this Menu and it's going to give me some things down here at the bottom and we'll start scrolling through them and it should say that What i'm looking for is ntsc matte So we'll see if we can find that on this set ntsc matte see how it's selected to two We're supposed to set that to zero And it's going to take down that like overkill on the red you could see the color kind adjusted a little bit Um, actually you can see it adjusted a lot the red did come down a lot Look at that came down in line to where you have more of a blue hue On the screen and if we turn up our brightness and make them more into balance. All right, so if we exit we hit exit on the remote Takes the spec out to our main area. We can go in and change other things like your brightness under the deflection So i'm going to sit here and work on this deflection for a little bit And then we'll come back and we'll take one last look at the screens All right, i've finished up all my adjustments and here is our monoscope pattern I've got our aspect ratio set And that is why when you notice on the sets that I calibrate you'll notice that The vertical tends to go into the over scan a little bit And then sometimes like in this setup You could see the edge of the horizontal pattern right here on both sides That's so that the aspect ratio is set properly Now this one this particular set if I went over this setting on the horizontal and tried to make it larger It would actually cause a ripple around this cube And it's kind of uh, just would get really warped so you cannot go further horizontally without really screwing up the side geometry So that was kind of an interesting thing, but It's all set. It's looking really really good really sharp in there Um, not really many convergence issues. Honestly, this is one of the best looking CRTs. That's a consumer CRT that I've ever seen High marks for it So that's just this one test pattern Uh, but we're going to go through now and I'm just going to show you some Gameplay we'll mix it up and uh, you can let me know what you think of this tv What are your experiences with jvc's d-series televisions? Let me and everybody else know in the comments Thanks again for joining me today, and I'll see you all next time with some more retro content