 Okay. So welcome back to part two of our question and answer session. I apologize about the technical difficulties in running out of time there. So the last question we ran off on was for Scott, and he was talking about his 2030. His 2030 Sony PVM models from the early 80s, and he thought most of them were. And there are a bunch from the 80s. They went into the early 90s, too. At the time, they were considered one of the very top CRTs in the world, the 2030s. And they're still very, very valuable. If you get one, and you get it in tune, good condition, a lot of museums and other places are starting to really want those monitors, as opposed to even more modern ones. So 2030 is still a great monitor. I got Fred Border asked if I'd ever done any videos on Sony BVMs, and the answer is no. I don't currently have any BVMs in my area, which is the Tennessee area in the United States. We don't have a lot of BVMs come available. I did get one BVM one time a long time ago, and it was an A-series, and I found out the hard way at the time. There was not very much documentation. This was four or five years ago. The A-series didn't really accept the RGB signal unless you had a BKM68X. So that's another conversation for anybody who knows about the BVM and the BKM68X. But just so you know that, that was an experience because I had to try to get anywhere I could. 240p into that monitor, I did end up getting an S-video into it, but that was the best I could do without the 68X. So I sold it to a film studio in New York who used it to make documentaries, and I'm glad I actually made some money on it, and I was glad to get rid of it because it didn't do what I wanted, and then I was able to pick up a couple of BVMs after that. But if I do ever come across a BVM, of course, just like the 20 on 5, I'll keep it and do a lot of video content on it, and we'll keep it going. So my friend Charlie Cat, Anthony, has said, I feel the material that you provide needs to be on DVD format or preserved as the years to come, bro. It's truly solid, gold content that few days can offer to the public, and maybe even Retro Tech publish a repair manual out for Amazon or local bookstores. Yeah, that would be awesome, man. Thanks, Anthony. I told you, man, that would be great if I could get a way to produce this stuff. It's just money and time, most of the things. So I think that as I can step away from other things and get more involved in Retro Tech and also kind of expand on what I want to start talking about with the channel, I'll talk about that more as this video ends. I want to talk about some other things because we want to start talking about other collectibles and kind of ways to finance your hobbies through this Retro Technology, but this also is growing in value. And so for us to just ignore that or not to try to take a benefit to that and look at it from a marketing and a personal gain perspective, it would be kind of foolish and we want to take advantage of what we can. That means everybody that's in this community that I want to expand on that and kind of like look at some of the crazy treasures that I found that were just honestly things that were in my family's homes that they didn't want, they thought was junk, they had no idea any of this stuff was worth anything, they just wanted to get rid of it and I was like, well, I'll take it rather than you throwing it in the dump and it ends up being worth a lot of money and if you have a way to sell it. So we'll talk about the things like that coming up and maybe like a one-weekly session video we'll be putting together. Cypress asks, if you're not sure what the problem is in the CRT, do you do a full capacitor replacement across the board and how do you know what kind of capacitors to order before removal? Okay, so if there is troubles in the CRT, I get a new CRT just like the one that was done to Sony KV that we did the RGB mod on, I want to always make sure, yeah, go ahead and replace the capacitors if I've got it all the way toward down. If I'm going to tear it all the way down, if I know there's a for sure issue then yes, it's good to go ahead and get that done and then go from there, you're usually going to start with a good way to calibrate your monitor and set it up from there and how do I get or what kind of capacitors do I know? A lot of times with PVMs and BVMs, you can go and find the specific service manual for whatever monitor you're working on and there's usually a parts list. You can go down to the parts list and try to see if you can code it out where you can find the deflection board which will have broken down a picture of it and this can't be just like the add manual, it's got to be the full service manual that'll be usually over a hundred pages but you can find the deflection board and it should list out the components on there and you can order them based on that so that's one way and the other way is if there's no service manual that does that or doesn't have that broken down it's like with the TV I actually took it apart, I went through and labeled every or wrote down documented by hand every single capacitor on there and then went to Mauser and built an order sheet for that TV and so now if I ran it to that again I could use it but there was no specific capacitor kit ready for that so I ordered all the capacitors from there they all worked but that was a tedious job and that's sometimes what you got to do. Let's keep this rolling. Alright Matthew Palmer what do you use for sync on the RGB TV mod so if you go back and watch that video in the early parts of it I show that you hook that right into the composite input on one of your composite inputs preferably one you're not going to use again and that way you can put the RGB mode activated and then use that input that you tapped your composite you can use the composite as well as the ground off there and you can also get your audio right from those two audio hookups right there for stereo audio so you take the lines from those behind there you solder those in and then you run that to the back of your skirt head and you'll have a perfect set up there for your audio and your your I'm sorry sync video line so I was planning on doing still more another video with that I just got to get past a couple things I do have an announcement coming up that I'll just quickly announce here but where we are going to a trade show in November that's November 9th 7th 8th 9th it's a expo here in Nashville that's a retro gaming expo I've got a booth reserved I'll post more information about that but please look for more information for that and if you want to come to the gaming expo it's a great hotel that's new in Nashville check it out it's a great example of a place to just come hang out and it'll be cool mostly around retro gaming and pinball and arcade stuff so let's keep going any chance Kenny Lauderdale has been asking me a lot about a recapping guide for a 20M2MDU so I don't have a 20M2MDU in my shop right now I do have a 1953 MD which is the one before that the model before that so I'll be recapping one of those the first one again I'm going to be recapping is a OEV 142 which is just like that 20M2 only it's the 14M2 Sony it's the same monitor just has a different faceplate on it even says Sony when you take the shell off it's inside it says Sony so that's gonna be the one I'm gonna do first I don't have a 20M2 so I can't do that one but you can use the same procedure on any one of these monitors and it'll work especially tearing it down and recapping it and Albert asked about removing epoxy on neck boards and tubes so I'm gonna do that and then when I tear down that 142 OEV Olympus monitor you know usually if you just peel that stuff with your finger or just like make sure of course your monitor's not got any power in it but you can you know do that or just slowly take some kind of soft heat source to it and should come up a little bit softened up maybe like a heat gun but I wouldn't put too much of that on it usually if you just work it it's so old it comes undone if you have more problems you might have to cut it cutting it's a good idea just be careful do it slow and take your time so you won't damage anything right Kimball had a question about the color adjustment video recently and on the smaller monitor which had a lot of trouble and was not fixable at least not without a full replacement of parts he said asking about the difference between the potentiometers in the front and the inside and the older monitors and I found when I was using it that the potentiometers inside the monitor did a lot more than the ones in the front of the monitor and you kind of use both to tune it up at least in the past that's been the way to again if you have a monitor that already has the set color temperatures that's the best place to try to set your color to and then you can tell kind of like with that small monitor there's obviously a hardware issue in there somewhere okay moving on a no I know me and I know me sorry please show how to do geometry on the 20-05 calibration video that will be coming very soon and look for that in the next couple weeks I wouldn't imagine too much longer Kenny Lauderdale flush it a color video with flushing the CRT gun fish the issue on the smaller PVM I've heard it done but don't know so maybe you're just talking about a rejuvenator and that's highly discouraged against on the CRTs that are sony Trenatrons something about the hardware not make mixing well and people happen to do it's very tricky can burn out the monitor the whole tube and so then you'd have a fried tube if you were just trying to rejuvenate it so I really don't recommend that I don't even own a rejuvenator and I've never personally done it jair Griffith says for the food for thought on the color TV monitor if the monitor can display white then the phosphors on the tube okay put up the STM PE bars and compare it to the 20-05 I just the red and blue first and then the green it's strange the green stream looks white it doesn't sound like it's a potentiometer fix and that's very right yes definitely not a potential fix and that's a great way to go through that and test that where you go start yeah that's pretty much the standard is just get it all the way turned down and then go from red to blue to green on the adjustment scale and there's definitely something up at the green so I'm thinking it's probably a component in that green line somewhere it's gone bad now so I don't have time to really fix that right now but if eventually we'll probably get to that Austin then had a follow-up question the same video about color what happens if you short the green pen on the neckboard if you get a pure green then it must be something or internal not the tube that's another good way I didn't demonstrate that in that video maybe they'll come up in another color video because there's a lot to do with color we can troubleshoot that some more if you can short out each individual color and you see the color bright on the you know red green blue can short that with wire and to ground and it should show the color if the monitor is working that shows that you got a component issue which I think we do have on that monitor now the soil let's see where we are here shuffle time now I feel much less stressed about buying a PVM what kind of screwdriver do you use to take apart the shell I'm glad you feel better about buying a PVM you should if you want to get one go ahead and get one before it gets extremely hard and even more expensive because last three years people have been laughing but the price just seems to double each year so I don't know I mean it's not really going double probably again but it's going to keep going up on the price of the good ones at least and I just use a regular Phillips head screwdriver to take apart the shell I don't recommend unless you're taking apart and cleaning the back specifically or repainting the shell that you remove the rivets to get the plastic piece off that's really just a pain and those rivets you can remove them I'll show you in a future video but I wouldn't do it that way most of the time the Sawyer 10702 hey great videos RGB TV mod so you're talking about the SCART input and that connection type isn't required in Northern USA this is a Canadian UK import well could you please discuss the SCART RGB so he has a component with TV and it looks like he would want to know about that I'll make a more detailed version maybe then when I get some time because I do want to go again in that SCART input SCART was just pretty much European and it's what's called Euro SCART but it does allow for the RGB input which most American TVs never went past s video in the day and then they jumped up to component which is a different video format still really great highly recommend component but you don't really get a component signal okay we don't really get a component signal out of the consoles normally so it's a lot cheaper to just get the RGB signal out of your consoles and there's some great resources on that like retro RGB it's got a great website for how to get each console to hook up to RGB and then you feed it through and you either turn it into component or you use the RGB input RGB mod something like a TV but you want to use that SCART input because it's a lot cheaper than to get those component to get those as opposed to somehow getting component out of every system and you're possibly adding lag and trouble etc and LaCosley somehow okay Michael Fischer's has a couple questions here and he says he's been trying to enter the service menu it was 1354 Q and he tips on doing it and that's still just using you know your key you turn up your menu you would get your regular menu up first and then you just hit the gauze and enter at the same time and that'll pull up that service menu so it's on every PvM that has a service menu it's the same way to do it they never changed it as far as I've seen how to get into it if there's no service menu that means you don't have any sub menu but that's how you get into it and then you also had a question about the cab restoration back here the MBS cab it's still going it's just been really hot here in Tennessee and I'm waiting for it to cool down a little bit before I finish it off I did a little bit of the woodwork and repair and it's pretty much ready to go to get all finished it just needs mostly cuz cosmetic stuff on the outside but there'll be more videos to come on that as that progresses okay a couple more questions here OJ Taylor had a very long question good question about factory resets on a monitor he's been trying to get a good report back on setting your monitor back to when you get a monitor and you get say a service manual for PvM it has in it a factory default settings okay so you get a monitor and you don't think it looks right obviously on something when you turn it on and the first thing to do is to get in the submenu and then see the values in there there's numerical values for everything well there was a service menu setting originally from the service provider or you know the tech that set up the monitor originally that service would have been put put to the service manual value and then your value would have been probably updated over the years as it was used and recalibrated as far as recommendations for that I kind of thought that maybe if you had something that was way out of whack that if you went and put it back to the regular settings that it was in originally according to the service manual that that might help but honestly it's not it's not the spec anymore a strt can have a lot of things affected over time its use how many how much it was used as well as how well it was maintained and actually things like the magnetism of each room as it was moved to different parts of the country or as it was in use that has an effect on a crt over time and so that's why you see if you buy these from facilities that use them a lot there were companies that would go out and physically yearly calibrate these for companies you know to make sure they were still in a certain spec because they would just go out of overuse fall out of spec and you have to go in through the service menu and that was the way to get them back into spec using that menu so honestly if you go back to that service me it's probably not going to help I mean it could help at least it gives you a good starting point but I've not seen where you just able to go and put in the regular service menu because I actually tried that once and it didn't look good because the monitor even if you went and recapped it it's it's just stuff about the tubes going to change over time the tube is what's showing that picture so the tube ultimately is not the same as it was 20 years ago it's just aged just like anything and you can't replace the tube usually with a brand new tube nobody makes tubes anymore so I hope that helps a little bit maybe we'll do some more content that's a cool thing to talk about and so there's a couple more questions here I've got and I got a question about CRT filming that I wanted to get to and that was there was a great video about that but you basically have to time your speeds down to get close to that 59 check my camera I think I'm down to 30 frames and not 60 so I'm not filming at 60 so I was catching a blink on it you also got to try to have backlight behind the camera but that's kind of all the time I have today and before this video runs out like the last one did I just want to say again thank you everybody for sticking around if you're still here and I haven't gotten your questions please leave it below in a comment and I will make a follow-up video to this a part 3 and I'll have even more questions to answer please look for more quiet content from retro tech I've really been enjoying making the videos and have a great day