 back to replace this compressor. I'm gonna go ahead and cut those like that and that way I can slide this stuff off. Got all the pipes cut because otherwise it's really tight in place. It's really hard to get it out so that way it makes it easier to slide it off. All right all you super techs out there I like to use a flame that's big enough to get me off of the piece that I'm working on as quickly as possible without overheating the copper. The only guy that has any ideas whether or not there's something wrong that's the oil out of that compressor. That's really looking good. So yeah that compressor is toast, you can see shavings, you can see everything in there. Now I chose not to use the RX11 flush for a reason. I've been having some issues when I have used it that it ends up creating capillary tubes plugging up later. So in this instance here I didn't have any oil in the condenser coil so I was pretty confident that we'd be all right. Just reusing this. I used it the last time so let's put it back on there again. It protected it that long. Basically this takes care of the penetration through the cabinet and also any potential vibrations later on down the line. Here I am getting the feed in place and pinned back together and undoing the suction line. Now we're just making sure there's nothing left in the condenser. Going ahead and getting our hot gas line brazed back in. Here we're purging out the suction line back towards the coil. So we're going to go ahead and wrap it around there just to help oil off any leftover refrigerant that's in the accumulator. Then we'll bring it back around and stick it into the evaporator about two to three inches. That's a capillary tube cutter that I use to cut it works really well. I can't really give you instructions that you could read so to get the ohm meter out and figure out which one's what. This is really useful when they don't tell you what terminals what on here which yeah you have an end there but don't see anything else. So it's always good to take a couple seconds to make sure you're correct before wiring it up. That way it's better to be sure than it is to be sorry. These don't really fit the barrel quite right but the blues are almost too big. So what I'm doing is sleeving it with a piece of heat shrink. That'll help hold it in place. It won't short out against anything. Basically we got our common going on with the capacitor here. The other side of the capacitor going there. This is your start. This is your run. Your common's going to get your hot leg. And then when the thing kicks on the magnetic pull because of the amperage causes this switch to pull up and then as soon as the amperage drops down it opens up and takes the capacitor out of the circuit. That's freeing the guys. That's why if you flip it upside down you can kind of get continuity through the start and the run that the switch is closing. And since we're doing a wet your cold go ahead and do my disclaimer now. This is not for homeowners and business owners or anyone else. This is for trained competent professional HVAC refrigeration service technicians. So please don't try this on your own. Actually, of course they didn't give me no screws for it because they didn't give me no crimp arms either. I got nitrogen and purging through my compressor the whole time I'm doing this because this has turned into a lot longer and it should have. So I'm going to get that mounted there. I've got two self-tapping screws in there and that ran down slow back in and out and that made them tap into that plastic just perfect. Purging some nitrogen through right now. Get all the air out. We're down to braze mode. What I ended up doing too, got it all in place and then I killed the nitrogen right after right before I ended up hitting it one last time just to warm it up one more time just to make sure no nitrogen was blowing any holes through it even though it's super slow. It's not brazed over there but it could cause it back pressure and blow it out. Now when we bleed it through this is going to push through the suction side and so from here to here is wide open so it's going to just go on through and on out to the coil. You're also going to get some back here to where the filter dryer comes out at. I think it's in shavings or anything out there one last time just to make certain. We're going to go oversize cap 22 dryer because that wheel's so bad and right there you can see that 134A you have three extra ounces plus it gives me two ports so I can see before and after. It won't stop anything waxy or anything like that because I've had two times where I've changed this and it keeps going back and getting plugged up. We ended up having to ink the oil out and flush in the system and everything else so being system was not getting plugged up we didn't do the flush we just blow it out nitrogen pretty much bypassed the regulator to get the pressure I wanted to really blow through it nothing came out so we're good there. And the reason why we're using a small quarter inch piece of tubing in between the dryer and the line coming out of the condenser coils because it was some weird off-size that I did not have on the truck and I had no fittings to adapt it. Right now I'm bleeding through higher than normal pressure through here. Bite your finger you can feel it playing us today. Any higher net you can hear it so I'm one notch down below I've bled everything through here so now any restrict you know any back pressure from this being restricted it's going to come through here we're just displacing the oxygen. I'm searching with the ultrasonic right now and it's the gooseneck version I really like the other one but this one here really gets you in nice tight spots I'm not hearing anything and I noticed for some reason this one here seems to be a lot quieter than my other one I bought my other one used so I wonder if that's maybe why they sold it because this one isn't picking up the fluorescent lights near as bad and I mean I'm not hearing nothing but just you know every time now and again when I hit something air moisture out of it and we're going to get her charged up here in a second. My study gauge on there ended up taking that off. This is easier to get to now coming back a little bit cold it's not flooding back or anything like that and she looks good and she's working good so that ramps this one up if you like the video please like share and subscribe check down below description for any of the tools I was using and until next time guys we'll catch you on the next one