 and you can check that out and we'll be back to our usual antics next Wednesday. There'll be a show and tell as well as an Ask an Engineer as usual, but this was the Ask an Engineer Takeover Wednesday yesterday for the unboxing. So who's got a Memento? Who got an Aida Box 21? Who's got projects they're working on? I'd love to hear about them. I was glad to see actually at the end of the show yesterday one of our viewers, Bear, was able to reset the boot loader and that solved an issue they were having, a belief with the LED ring color. So yeah, tell me all about it. Got really two main things I want to do here today. So one of them is a kickoff of a new project that I'm going to do. It should be a fairly, I think it'll be a fairly straightforward one. I may design a 3D printable mechanism for it, or I may publish a Lego downloadable instruction in Bricklink link to get the parts, depending. I have a sort of prototype version of it up and running today using some Lego and Lego Technic, but we'll see. It might be fun to do as a 3D printable thing. What is it? Well, wait and find out. I'll tell you in just a few moments. And then the other main thing I wanted to do was a show and tell. This is one that I've been excited to show and tell for a while now, but I wanted to wait until we did the eight of box unboxing. And that is the vintage titling letters that I used for a bunch of the memento stuff. In fact, let me throw an image up here that you can see of what I'm talking about. Go grab the main title images I used. Where are you? You should be right here. This one I'll do. Yeah. So, this is someone asked, I believe it was DJ Devon 3 asked about what software was used to create that thinking it was CG, but that's actually some real physical letters that I photographed in this, your earth using, in this case the iPhone, but most of the images I did with that, whoops, were with a, well, there we go. Most of the images I did were shot on memento yesterday. This happens to be one that I had shot on an iPhone. But these are some ceramic letters that come from a company called Mittens. And they were made back in the 60s. I think that was 50s and 60s were the heyday. And in fact, that is going to be our coupon code for the day. So I do have a coupon code. That's it right there, Mittens, because that's the weird name of this company that made these letters. So if you want to go get something from the store today, throw it in the cart, on the way out, check for the coupon code field and type in Mittens, M-I-T-T-E-N-S. That'll be good until midnight tonight, east coast time. And that'll get you 10% off on any physical goods. That won't work on software gifts or subscriptions, but it's good for stuff. Anyway, these letters right here, these are one of a number of typefaces that they made for use in movie titling, especially for eight millimeter home movies. You needed a way to create a title. You put your camera on a down shooter. You set up a little title and you shot a few seconds of that. That's what would play at the beginning of your reel. Go get that developed. And they also made signage for buildings. They were here in California actually, so they made signage inside department stores, signage outside buildings. Actually really letters is what they sold. And they developed some typefaces based on existing types. Some were created pretty much from scratch for their needs. So let's take a look at them. First of all, here's a little set of these groovy things. You can see here I've got, that's quite a warm cast on that. Why is that that warm? Let me back off of the white balance here. These are not like that. There, that's kind of more what they look like. Neat little ceramic letters. You can see here they have a rough surface on the back. The rest is fairly smooth. And you can see those little flaws and imperfections in them there that you sometimes pick up, which I think helps sell the idea that these are real and analog and physical in the real world. They get a little dinged up. They get dirt. This one has just a little bit of dirt in the corner there. And the idea with these, you can see they're floating all over the place, right? The idea with these was they sold a adhesive, a sort of temporary adhesive, so that you could glue them down to a surface, shoot your titling, and even put them up vertically if you needed to, and then peel them off and kind of scrub off the adhesive. They also made ones with pegs on the back. And they were formed, I believe also, I don't have any of those, but they were formed into the backs of the letters. It was a consistent pin and they could be set into like a little sort of foam and velour type of mat to get them where you wanted. But I imagine that was a little more difficult to get things lined up because with these, you'll just use a, typically I'll use a little ruler and get them lined up and spaced properly. So what I'd love to do is show you the boxes of these I got. I got two different types. So here is, switch this camera here, so here is Mittens Professional SLT3. I think that's smooth letters because this does not have the pegs. I think the peg ones say PLT. Three was the typeface. They only made them in like one font size for this use, but so typeface three is the one that I have in here. Sanded back letters, three-quarter inch, upper and lower case, and a bottle of Mittens Stickum. Zoom in on there because gosh, this is a handsome label if I've ever seen one. Sanded back letters, upper and lower case, one bottle Mittens Stickum movie titlers. And I'll peel the, take the top off of there. Zoom out. Look at these. Look how gorgeous. So these are upper and lower case. I used these for some of the title sequences for the cards in the in the Aida box unboxing. This also has some nice punctuation numbers down here at the bottom. And you can see we've got their sort of rough texture there. I don't know how well you can see that actually. My light is a little blasted out. Sorry. Yeah, that's gonna be hard to pick up. There's a little bit of a rough texture on the back. And look, here is, believe it or not, a bottle of Mittens Stickum that has not dried out. I have not opened it. I'm terrified to open. I think I may just leave it as it is, but it's some sort of a sort of a liquidy rubber cement type of feel, I think. Some of these letters you'll see have the residue on the back of someone who used it without cleaning it off. And it looks kind of like a rubber cement to me there. Or contact cement, that kind of thing. I noticed in the chat, see Grover said those letters were school photographer staples in all my grade school photos. They had exposed metal pins for attaching to grooved felt tile boards. Yeah, right. So I remember plastic ones when I was growing up, I think, used for saying, you know, Mrs. Mason's fourth grade class. So that's it. These gorgeous letters. You can see they came up with some very clever space savings for some of these letters where they figured flipping them, you could get more of this letter P by flipping them side to side, some of them like these T's are all tucked in nicely. I think I have that H somewhere, and I have one cracked letter N. It got cracked in half and I may try to glue it. Actually, this is a U and I think they're identical to the N. So if you want to say, you know, no, you can pretty much do it because you have all the N's and all the U's and a whole bunch of O's there. So that is this sort of smaller whimsical typeface. And then I have the other set. And I believe I got these in the maybe $60, $70 range plus shipping. I found them on eBay as well as Etsy, typically eBay sellers are going to be a little cheaper than Etsy. These are somewhat readily available. I think a lot of these were sold and so a lot of them exist. So this is the Smooth Letters 2. It looks like someone bought this at some point for $7.50 for amateur and professional titles. And again, now this is just uppercase, you can see in this set. And we have letters and numbers and just a couple punctuations. There's a question mark and an exclamation point and then you'll use one of your precious two period squares at the bottom of those. And then we have a couple of commas that you could maybe use as a set of quotes, two single quotes. I don't think there were more. I think this is a complete set. And then anything you see missing from here is because I spelled Memento and a couple times an Adabox. But look at this, look at this gorgeous K. My gosh, that's a beautiful face, sort of a Deco style, streamlined, modern style, gorgeous. This S, very distinctive with these hard diagonals and then the curved top, so square on the inside, really beautiful. I did find a digital typeface someone made based on this and I can't remember what it's called now, but there are some similar, very similar existing types, but this one has some unique little, look at the Q, has this little diamond point in there, absolutely love it. And again, what is up with the miraculously still liquid mitten stickum? I am terrified of whatever is in there. It's a cool-looking bottle too. Yeah, almost all my M's were done in by Memento and I had, this was empty when I opened this this morning because I had used the Memento letters in two different places during the unboxing. So yeah, cleaned it out, brought some of the N's, E's back there, but yeah, M in Memento eats it up quickly. So yeah, 021 for Adabox 21, just one X remaining, there's one over there, some numbers. So that's my show and tell. That is for you, DJ Devon 3, I don't know if you're here today, but you had asked about that title and that's how I did it. I shot that on the wood base of this photo enlarger. I also did some experiments with casting some blurred slides, negatives from the enlarger onto some letters, came out cool, but it was creepier looking than kind of the mood we were going for, so I didn't end up using those, but those are the beloved Mitten's letters and I'll probably try to find other uses for those because they're just so handsome and so such a joy to use physical type like that. If you look, let me just jump over real quick to the internet here. This, if you just Google Mitten's titling letters, you'll see a few people singing their praises, you'll find them for sale a bit. If you go to the images, there's an exhibit at the Museum of Fine Arts in Houston of a bunch of Mitten's, they're photographs of Mitten's type in drawers, so here's a nice set of them probably for someone who created signs inside of a store or for photography or whatever. Look at that. This is inside of a department store display here. Fontes Cabel, condensed, beautiful. I'd love to find the rest of them. Okay, so for their signage outside of buildings, they had a, and even on the interiors of departments in a store and that sort of thing, they had a bunch of different type sizes there, different fonts for the face. Here's some nice cursive styles that they had, beautiful. They are the only ones I've found that are made of this sort of ceramic, plastery, ceramic material. You will find plastic letters out there as well. That's actually, initially this search started with Phil Turone saying, hey, maybe get some letters to do some tiles with like refrigerator magnet style, and we'd actually used refrigerator magnets in the fun house unboxing, and so I wanted to find something different, and I ended up looking into these gorgeous letters. So he says, the stick would need a hazardous material warning today, no doubt. It's terrifying, right? Some nice says, then along came Trajan Pro and everything changed. Oh boy, let's not get started on Papyrus. That's that. That was the letters thing. So thanks for coming along for that ride, and it was fun to have an excuse to be able to play with these, particularly just showing with the Memento camera that the lighting, the color of the lighting, the direction of the angle, some hard shadows can really, really look beautiful. I've got my little, just a tiny little bright light source here that we can use to create some nice hard shadows with. All right. So I should mention, by the way, if you're somewhere like Twitch and Facebook and you're wondering where the chat is, and I was just looking over there and talking, who am I talking to? That is our Discord. So you can go to adafruit.it slash discord and you can jump into our Discord server and look for the live broadcast chat channel. That's where the chat is going on. And then like I said, sorry, since I've been busy with prep and setup and doing the unboxing yesterday, I didn't set up a Circuit Python Parsec, so I'll get back to that next week. But I would like to kick off a new project and that is a automatic watch winder. So what's the deal here? I have this is a Seiko automatic auto winding watch, not terribly expensive, but it's a similar type of concept as watches ranging from 100 bucks maybe on the low end for one that can auto wind up into all of your Omega's and Patek Philippe's and Panerai's and Rolex's. A lot of watches that are analog have an auto winding mechanism. This one's kind of neat because they've put a clear back on it so you can see what the heck that even is. I'll turn this light back on. And so you can see when it's hard with the band, sorry, but you can see there is a sort of half circle pendulum right here. I'm going to focus a little better for you right there. That is a sort of counterweight that moves. You can see it sort of swing there. It just moves as you walk around in your regular day. You can see the face of the watch there. So it has a day-date function and then it has a fairly smooth sweeping second hand. And this is on the low end. These are 200-ish dollar watches. So it does not have separate winding. You can't wind it with the stem. The only way for this thing to wind, just to keep the cost down and simplify the mechanism, is to wear it, which is great. As long as you wear it, it has about a 40-hour reserve on the mainspring. So there's a coiled spring that gets wound by just wearing it. And then as it it runs the watch, it unwinds that. And so you're just kind of in this constant balance of using the thing and wearing it. And kind of every time you swing your arm, move a little bit. That little mechanism, which is actually a bi-directional auto winder, which means either direction that it swings, it has a little pinion and a little ratchet that grabs and winds or reverses the direction of and winds. So it's always winding in one direction. And the mainspring. So super cool. Only problem with it is if you don't wear it for a couple days, because it's only got a 40-hour power reserve in it, at best. I think it's less than that, honestly. It will then lose time. Stop. You know, you're going to see it slow down and then stop. So your time is going to be wrong. So if you have other watches you want to wear, or if you just forget, you've got to go reset the watch. Not a big deal, but kind of a pain because it's a day-date on there. So that's the bigger pain is you kind of have to go through three little steps to get the day and date right again, as well as the time. I live with this without too much problem. It doesn't really bother me, but I thought it would be kind of fun to build a watch winder, which is something that people who have big collections of auto winding watches are particularly interested in. But you can also get single ones. And it is what it sounds like. It is a mechanism that has a way to mount the watch. And then it has a very slow motor, which will rotate it a few times an hour, reverse it if you want it to. And you'll set it to something that isn't keeping the spring fully wound. You kind of want it going through it's a bit of its length there during the day. That means you can just keep it plugged in and empowered. This is also all absurd. I was talking to Todd Kurt about it earlier. He's like, oh, wow, you know, if you've heard of watches with batteries. So yeah, it's all ridiculous. You don't need it. But it's a thing. It's a thing that's out there. And I'll show you here. I'll show you what a typical watch winder looks like. Here we go. How about that right there? So these are single watch winders. And these are nice ones. These go for like $300. That's more than my watch costs. So I certainly don't really see myself getting that, but it is a nice one. You can also get these sort of, if you have huge collections, you can get these insane safes and stuff. So yeah, the watch world is wackadoo and it gets nutty quickly. But you can get cheaper ones. I think there's probably not a huge difference in the price range, inequality with the different price range of these things. All it has to be is a motor that can turn it. Now you don't want it to be a loud motor probably. You may want it to be a little bit controllable as far as how many times and how fast it's turning and can it go in both directions. But I figured a decent stepper motor, like you find in all your 3D printers, like these ones that we sell in the Adafruit shop. Let me find one for you. Stepper. Right there. So this kind of $14 stepper motor, or let's see, I think this may be, yeah, that may be the one I'm actually using here today. Although that says it's a 12 volt and I think I have a 5 volt stepper running. I don't know if it's that one. But any simple stepper motor is probably going to do a great job at being able to turn your watch fairly reasonable speed, especially if you're able to gear it down with a bit of gearing or pulleys or belts. And they're fairly easy to control. So I decided, yeah, let's do this. Let's put together a watch winder. And to keep it simple, Lady Aida suggested, hey, what about using make code? You haven't used that in a project in a while. You're really doing very simple stuff, like maybe no user input, just when you turn it on, it turns for a prescribed amount of time in one direction, pauses, turns in the other direction. This is really simple sort of logic loop stuff that you can do with graphical programming inside of make code. So in fact, let's take a look at what the code for something like this will look like. So I'm jump over to make code here. So I had to remind myself, you want to use the, if you're using a circuit playground express, so I'm going to use a circuit playground express and a cricket board as my stepper driver. There are a lot of other ways we have motor shields, we have feathers that have motor add-ons that'll do steppers, stepper drivers on their own. So there's a lot of ways you can go about this. I'm going to use a cricket. If you want to use the cricket in the makecode.adafruit.com, you just have to remember to use the beta. This morning I went and looked and I was like, why do we not have the cricket extension available? That's because you need the beta. I think this will always be in beta, but makecode.adafruit.com slash beta. And then you can go into this extensions and pick cricket. And I've already done that. So that extension set exists right here in the menu. You can see I can click on that. And then you could drive servos. You could do this with something like a continuous rotation servos. Well, that would work very, very nicely. Motors, you can't drive these too slow. They tend to be a little noisy if they're just simple DC motors. Again, you could make it work for sure. I'm using down here this little stepper section. We have a couple of options. We have a stepper that's plugged into the four motor ports. So we have two essentially H bridge motor drivers. Those could be used to drive two separate DC motors bi-directionally. Or this extension, let's you just plug in the four wires of a, is it a unipolar stepper to be able to drive that? You can also use the drive section on the cricket. I'll show you what these look like in a second. Either of those, you're just saying, how many steps am I going to move it? That's kind of the only thing you can do with it. You can't do micro steps or this and that. You're just going to grab what you got there, but it works well. It's straightforward. So here I have, this is going to move in 10 step increments forever. You're more likely to say, let's move 4,000 steps and then we'll add a little pause maybe for a second and repeat. That would just turn, stop, turn, stop. Or you can throw in a negative and that will run the stepper motor in the other direction, duplicate this. So it's going to go, flip, go, flip. Yeah, and it'll do all those steps before it gets to that pause. So it's a very sort of linear logical thing. So I've programmed something like that along with some lights into the cricket over here on the work bench. So let's go take a look at that as well as the little mechanism I built. And actually I'll let me go back to, for a second, to one of those commercially available winders, just so you can see I used this mounting as a bit of an inspiration. Because the question is, how do you get the thing to hold onto your watch and do what it needs to do? So if you look at these little things here, these are a couple little sort of roughly wrist sized with a bit of padding on them or spring loading block that you just wrap your watch around if it has a strap or if it has this kind of bracelet, clip it onto there, and then it just plonks into the kind of hole in the front there and it does its thing. This one, by the way, has, if you look at the back of it, has a couple knobs on there, and that is for, I believe, they have just presets for the revolutions per day is what they call them, like 650 revolutions per day, I think is a typical number. Let me see, I think it's listed in one of these other photos. Yeah, turns per day, 850, 650, 750, 1,000, 1950. I don't know how you decide what you want your watch to do. And it can go either only one direction, only the other direction, or both directions every x number of minutes, I think. I think the other knob on there is if you want it to beep or something like that every so often to remind you that it exists, I guess. But anyway, we are, so I'm inspired by that idea, but like I said, I wanted to prototype this in LEGO Technic when I started out since I was using a stepper motor. At first, I thought of using a little toothed belt, pretty typical, if you look at any of the camera slider projects the Ruiz brothers have done, we'll use this type of toothed belt, which is great, they don't slip, they don't really stretch, easier to work with than chain, come in different lengths, and then you can attach that between essentially gears, pulleys, get your gear reduction that you want or translate the power over a distance. So that was one thought, but it's kind of cumbersome and there's a lot of fabrication that you need to do. And really, when you're wanting to build something like this and you don't have the means or the time or the energy or the money to do a whole bunch of fabrication, machining of things, your options tend, at least for me, to come down to either use LEGO and Technic parts or 3D print, design something and 3D print it. So I'll explore both, but today what I've got since it's so much quicker is a little LEGO mechanism and you may actually recognize this, I built this a little while ago to do a motor driver demo and I had built a neat little gear reduction here, a little Technic gear reduction back, and I'm not going to pull this fully apart, but back here you can see I've got my stepper motor, I have grafted one of our, I think it's a TT motor to Technic axle adapter, it doesn't really fit on the shaft of this stepper, so I had to grind it out a little bit and hammer it on there, but it's on there really well now. One nice thing is that this stepper has, happens to have spacing that is the same as the side beam pin holes on the anti-studs on a Technic, so that's how it's actually mounted as I have, let me get you to get you to view that there, it's all black nylon screws on black plastic, sorry, let's see, but right there you'll see this is a Technic beam, like this sort of thing, and it is one, two, three, four, five spaces apart, I have just some nylon M3 screws, and I was able to put four of those, so that's how I'm able to kind of get this thing itself to lock into the LEGO world, and then having that shaft adapter means that it's going right into this whole gear train here, so power transmission and gear reduction that allows the stepper, which already doesn't move that fast to move a heck of a lot slower and with more torque to be able to turn the thing. This is just, there's plenty that can be done to improve this, but it's fairly stable, this is locked in there fairly well, it wiggles a little back here, and some of that is because the shaft is not perfectly straight on there either, so that will spin this little motor here, sorry this little coupling here, if I turn that on you can see I've got my circuit playground express screwed into Cricut, Cricut has a 5 volt 2 amp DC power supply, which is both running the logic on my Cricut as well as powering the motor, you can see here the stepper is running in these four wires into the motor driver section, so rather the motor section, not the driver section, I probably shouldn't have had the lights go off because that keeps making me think, oh did it like brown out, but no I just told it to turn off its lights when it stops, and you can see yeah it's since my shaft is a little off-center it's kind of wobbling the whole thing, you got a lot of give in this this plastic here, you see that wiggle waggle back there, but it's decent enough and we get a good slow turn here on this little shaft coupler, and then what I made for actually rotating the watch was again a little sort of specialized-ish technic part with a fairly rigid axle to pin coupling, and if I turn that off and set that in there you'll see right now I'm getting something like a I don't know 100 degree 120 degree turn and then it returns, so I want to set that to go much much further, do multiple revolutions in one direction, take a break, go the other, and part of that is that calculation that you'll do if you research what's a good speed to use on your watch so it isn't always wound fully, so you need to give it some breathing room so that it'll run, and so then if you take something like a big squishy rubber tire on a wheel here, which fits into there with a little bit of squishy breathing room, this happens to be about the right size to wrap the watch around, it did have sort of a wedge-shaped piece I was using, I don't think I'll need it, but I was tightening it a bit with a little wedge shaped piece, but if I take my watch and wrap it around there, you can see it's a little loose but it's going to get clamped in by setting it into here, and so there it'll sit and that's fine, that'll turn the thing, ideally it might be that it's parallel to the face of this, I'll experiment with it, but I think I can see the little pendulum counterweight there turning, so this this will work just fine, so let me set that in there, this is a longer axle than I wanted to use, but it was the one that had on hand, so I put a few Technic pin holes for it to run through to give it a little bit of stability, and obviously there's some friction there too, it'll turn that on, and there it goes, it manages pretty well, it's not a super heavy watch, but you can see I've kind of got horrifying amounts of distance between the heavy weight on the end there and the shaft, and yet it works fine, I think that would probably last just as long as the $300 winder, if I'm being honest, and I can tilt this up so you can see the face doing its thing a little better, wobble, wobble, wobble, turn turn turn, but quite quiet, you know, the stepper itself is really nice and quiet, the plastic gears also on the LEGO Technic are pretty quiet, so all I want to do actually is just update this to rotate more, so let's take, I'll show you how that's done, I'll take power off of there and I'll bring it with me so we can just kind of test it in real time, bring the whole thing over here, and if you haven't used this sort of Cricut setup before in a while, you will power the Cricut, and you can still safely run USB to the Circle Playground Express in order to feed it, let's go to this view, the data that you need to feed it, so how about you're there and you're there, I'll hide this out a bit, and I can throw a little miniature me over in the corner, okay so let's take our letters, click click click, these make a satisfying noise, I am certain these would shatter into many pieces if I drop them on my concrete workshop floor, so I've got to be a little cautious with them, so let's set this under here, so I've got a power strip for that 5 volt 2 amp, and then I have a USB to plug in here, so you see even though I didn't turn the power on on the Cricut, which has its own power switch, the power from USB is running the Cricut Playground Express, so I flip that power on, it'll actually just start running, so you should see the winder doing its thing, should, is this, okay I think that was in a programming mode just by plugging it in, so I'll actually do that again, so I think that's now kind of in a bootloader mode waiting for me to connect it to this session, so this is running in Chrome, I think you have to run in Chrome to be able to do the web USB firmware updating, not certain but I think so, so I'll click on pair device, pick the Cricut Playground Express, you didn't see that pop up, but that just selected this device as what this web USB make code session is connected to, and let's, yeah so I don't have that that code, we could drag it off and into here if we want, how about, so C Play boot, current UF2, I'm dragging it into my Chrome browser, so that was the UF2 that was sitting on the Cricut, rather on the Cricut Playground Express, just dragged it to the make code window and boom there it is, which is pretty sweet, I'm not doing anything on start, so I can ditch that, I want to change these, how about yellow when we're paused, I can lower the brightness actually, so let me bring back a start loop on start, light, set brightness, let's do that at about five, the steps I'm doing right now, let's do about 5,000 and then negative 5,000, and if I hit download it should, crossing fingers, compile that UF2 and put it onto the Cricut, it says downloading, it also says that sometimes when it's stuck, so let's see, okay so it downloaded the UF2, it didn't put it on the board, but I can I can drag it on there myself, okay so now it's programmed it, okay so there's enough clearance there, so you can see now we're going to get I think a full-ish revolution, maybe even a little more, boy it looks stylish with that dirty technique wheel sitting there, yeah I like it and we can put bigger delays in there, we can have it turn multiple times in one direction, any of that, you can control just by changing these values, you can also give it a bit of an interface, we've got the the buttons, we've we've got a selector switch, so you could if you wanted to inmate code say I want to go into a mode where it'll let me increase the number of revolutions and do the math necessary for that, so all that stuff you can really simply grab things like on button, a click, increase some variable that is going to be you know multiplied by a thousand and that's going to be or by five thousand, that's going to be how many revolutions, you could use neopixels as color updates, so really a great platform, it's nice to be reminded of it, I haven't used it in a while, but Circle Playground Express and the Cricut together inmate code really easy, it's essentially getting familiar with what blocks are available and then figuring out the logic puzzle without worrying about the syntax, so it's really just the logic of how you want to code the project and and then upload it, so it is it is pretty straightforward, I can see the batteries on this little light have died, that's why that keeps getting dark over there, the question I just got over in the one of the chats was curious about the torque of the stepper motor, will it turn the watch without that gear reduction, and it will, it's pretty fast honestly, if you look at the fastest small gear there, that's how fast it's going, so that's whipping the thing around pretty quick, but I believe I tested with just the shaft coupler that I had for connecting to those timing belts, the tooth timing belts, and it was able to spin that way, so it is actually pretty torquey little motor, it just needs more clearance there, and a little further, a little better, there we go, so that's the complete prototype of the contraption, and I will play around a little bit to see if I can do a sort of straightforward elegant design in as few Lego parts as possible, but even better is see if I can do a pretty easy to 3D print mechanism that'll allow us to still gear it down without getting too complicated. If anyone has any thoughts about that, let me know, it's kind of this age-old problem of these types of maker projects is if you're not going to start doing fabrication and milling of parts, how do you build something that's kind of custom and bespoke like this with a toolkit of things, and that's why I always find myself returning to Lego Technic, it's just a great system for this kind of stuff, but I'd love to know if you have other go-to recommendations for these kinds of things. Let's see, yeah, let me know if you have other questions, let me bring up the, I'll look over in the chats, the two questions here, does make code let you change the step or speed? It does not that I know of, I don't think there's an advanced, yeah, I don't think there's an advanced cricket section, so if you look in the main cricket code here, you've got servo stuff, you've got motor, which you can control motor speed, but again, if it's just a basic DC motor, you can't get that slow, you can get about, I think, to 25% speed on one of the yellow TT motors before it stalls, and then if you put any torque on it, I think it'll stall even sooner. Yeah, the stepper choice is really just the number of steps, so if you did this in Circa Python and Arduino, you could get more granular for sure with the code there, so I'll leave that as an option for the user, you can code any of the cricket boards or pretty much any of our boards that you could run make code on that I'd be likely to use for this project, you can code in Arduino, you can code in Circa Python. A nice choice too is the feather and excuse me, the cricket feather wing, so you can plug pretty much any feather into there. You can go as wild as the Raspberry Pi cricket add-on, I don't remember what we call those anymore, pi plate, hat, something. Other questions, someone was asking about Memento case files, oh okay, yes, so that was a question based on 3D Hangouts. Excellent question, I think they're asking about this really cool Memento case that I believe Noah and Pedro made for use in their video on the Memento, which I apologize they didn't get a chance to play that during the unboxing because I'd covered a lot of that material already, but this is a nice case, they sent me a link to it or just sent me the STL files and I think they're planning to publish it and just haven't yet, so that was a nice one because it kind of covers the wiring and gives you a diffuser for the LEDs. 3D printed base clip for the Memento that I had, oh yeah, I can publish that one, if you want, that was me, I think literally just boolean difference on the one of the Ruiz Brothers cases, this is an earlier version of it, but yeah this is a very very minimal tripod mount, two screws, that's kind of a nice one for, you need to make one of those kind of clips into even so you don't have to screw it in, but yeah, these kinds of things are handy if you're going to be doing stuff for Memento, for any stop motion, time lapse, focus rack stuff, macro stuff, yeah it was not a snap clipped thing, it was just a minimal version of one half of a case with just two screws, I think that's it, yeah, okay, so that's my project kickoff there, that's my ode to Mitten's letters, once again if you would like to grab some stuff in the store today, you can go ahead over to Adafruit.com, look for some cool products, some new stuff, some old stuff, some, some of the crickets might be in stock, I don't think this one is right now, this, the cricket for the Circle Playground Express unfortunately, but you, if you're thinking of getting a jump start on this project, if you think you might want to make it, one other idea that I don't have an Apple watch, but LeMore wondered if something like this might be useful for fooling the pedometer or your Fitbit or something like that, I don't know if those use just rotation for anything, or if it's all based on sort of that step type of motion, so we might need a more complicated mechanism to do something like that. Yes, Sea Grover said, since precision isn't needed, a TT gear brushed motor would work and they're noisy, yeah, not for the nightstand, yeah, that was, I came to that same conclusion, Jan, I plugged in actually one of the blue metal gear motors and boy are those things noisy, they're geared down a lot, which is why I tried that first, and then I put in one of the yellow ones, and yeah, they're quite noisy, but the stepper is pretty quiet, I have to say, especially if you encase it in something, you can get it down quite quiet. Todd Bot, does this watch winder work on the watch app on my phone? Definitely, yeah, just put your Apple watch in this thing and it'll stay, you don't ever need to charge it again. All right, that's going to do it for today, thank you all so much for stopping by, I appreciate you, and we will be, I think, doing a deep dive tomorrow without Scott or Tim, we'll be back on Tuesday with a new product pick of the week, and then on Wednesday we'll have show and tell and ask an engineer, so that's going to do it for me for today, thanks everyone for stopping by, for Adafruit Industries, I'm John Park, and this has been John Park's Workshop, I'll see you next time.