 for tripping and welcome back again to my youtube channel. So today our tutorial or our lesson will be basic skirt foundation. So get your materials ready and let's get this tutorial started. These are the materials that you'll be needing for this tutorial. Your long ruler, paper scissors, all in one ruler with hip and armhole curve, your pencil, pencil pen for labeling and of course your pattern paper. Okay so let's get it started. Let's start by drafting a vertical line on the upper left corner of your pattern paper and make sure to extend this line. Next step, draft a horizontal line perpendicular to your vertical line and make it sure that on the top of the horizontal line you will leave a space. Towards the right side mark the half of your hip measurement which is 1748 and we will make another vertical line. Make it sure that you will extend this line going down. At the horizontal line mark down 8 for 8 inches. This is the standard size from waist to hip measurement. Make another horizontal line, label the top horizontal line waistline and label the bottom horizontal line hip line. On the upper left vertical line mark in 4 eighths inch and you will curve this down all the way to your hip line using your hip ruler. Using your new calculations on your hip line mark your back hip which is 9 inches, on your waistline at the 4 eighths mark, mark in your back waist with dart opening which is 7 4 eighths inches. At your back waist mark, curve it all the way down going to your back hip mark using your hip curve. Label cb for center back and label bss for back side seam. Next step mark the half of your back waist so my measurement for my back waist is 7 4 eighths divided by 2 and that is 368. Mark this 368 and this will be the opening for your back waist dart. At the 368 mark, mark down a vertical line with a measurement of 5 6 eighths. This 5 6 eighths measurement is for your dart length for the back waist dart. At the 368 mark, mark out 5 eighths inch on each side and this will be your opening for your back waist dart. Next step is connect your dart opening to your dart length. At the front side on the upper right corner mark in your front waist which is 8 2 8 inches. At your hip line mark your front hip with a measurement of 8 4 8 inches. At your front waist mark, curve it all the way down going to your front hip mark using your hip ruler. Next step at the upper right corner on the waistline mark in the half of the bust distance which is 3 2 eighths. This mark is the location for your first front waist dart. At the half of your bust distance mark down a vertical line with a measurement of 3 4 eighths. This 3 4 eighths measurement is the length for your front waist dart. Next step is mark out 3 eighths inches on both sides of the half of your bust distance. This will be the opening for the first dart of your front waist. Next step is complete all of your darts and voila you're finished with your first front waist dart. So let's move on to the second one. So the location of your second dart for your front waist is in between your bust distance and your front side seam. Get the measurement and mark the half and this will be your location for your second dart. The procedure for your second dart is also the same with your first dart. So just apply everything and complete all of your darts. And there you go. Naya finished your back waist dart and your front waist dart. So these are all the darts that you need for your basic skirt foundation. On your center back at the left side vertical line we are going to mark in your back kip measurement which is 9 inches. We are going to mark another line a vertical line at the center hitting your backside seam and your front side seam. From the waistline we are going to mark down 23 inches which is the length of your skirt from waist to knee. After drafting the length of your skirt we are going to move on again to your waistline. At the upper left corner on the 4 eighth mark we are going to mark down 2 eighths inches and on the backside seam on your waistline we are going to mark up 2 eighths inches. To curve your new waistline we have to close the dart. Reinforce it with a masking tape but not all the way down to your dart just on the top on the space and get your ruler and we will curve all the new lines on the waistline. At the front side seam on the waistline mark up 2 eighths for the new curved line for your front waistline. Again we have to close all of the darts on your front side before we draw the new curved line for your waistline. After you have finished your new curved lines we will distribute all of the lines to your darts to make it sure that you can notch it when you are going to put your sewing allowance. To avoid confusion let's label all of the lines the hemline the front and the back pattern the right side is the front and the left side is the back. For your waistband we will take all of the measurements of the waistline skipping the darts first the back and the front. Record all of the measurements and add it all up. For your waistband drop a vertical line and a horizontal line. On the lower left side at the vertical line mark in your back waist from your record mine is 6 3 eighths mark it all up and extend a vertical line at the center. At the horizontal line mark up 1 for 8 inches and this will be the length for your waistband. Start at the lower left side of your pattern. Mark it all up all the way to the front side of your waistband. From the vertical line at the center mark in your front waist measurement from your record going to the right side or the front side of your pattern. The line on the center of your pattern is your guideline for sewing. This is your side seam so you will connect all of your back side seam and all of your front side seam together and this will be the guideline when you are going to sew it on your sewing machine. Don't forget to notch it after you put your sewing allowance. So now I'm putting allowance on my waistband. I usually use 4 eighths or half inch and on the back side or on the center back I usually use 6 eighths and don't forget guys on the front side keep it on unfold and don't put any allowance. There you go so that is your waistband and you can now cut it from your pattern paper and put it on the side. So now we're going to move on to the lower left side of your skirt at the hemline. We are going to draw lines for your kicklet. So the width of your kicklet is 2 inches and you are going to mark it out from the vertical line at the lower left side of your skirt. Next up is the length of your kicklet. So I usually use 6 inches but some people use 7 inches but since my skirt length is 23 inches I'm going to use 6 inches up. So now this is your sewing allowance. 4 eighths on the side seams, 6 eighths on the center back, 1 2 eighths on the hemline and 4 eighths on the waistline with the darts. There you go and you're ready to sew. For sewing I started with all of the darts from the front and till the back and after sewing the darts I moved on to the side seams. So guys I just pressed the seams of the side seam. I just pressed the side seams. So the next thing that I'm going to do is I am going to work on the back area. As you guys know we put an extra measurement on the bottom of this skirt for your vent. So let's pin it in place first. Oh by the way I marked the corner where we are going to pivot later. So that's it and I'm going to start to sew on the mark of my zipper where my zipper ends and I'm going to sew there first and I'm going to stop here and I'm going to pivot it later going here. But first we need to pin everything in place. Okay let's start sewing. I'm not going to time-lapse this because it's really important that you guys can see how I sew it. So the first thing that we need to do is we are going to sew on the end of the zipper line. What we have is 6 eighths inches of sewing allowance and we are going to stop here on this point. Remember we're going to stop here on this point and we are going to pivot over here. Okay let's do it now. We are going to sew on this point. So what we are going to do, wait I'm just going to turn off this seam. So the next thing that we are going to do here is we are going to pivot it like this. Okay several back tap. What I'm going to do is I'm going to make it sure that the sewing allowance here is hitting on the half inch line or mark here on my sewing machine, my sewing guideline. After we sew our L square shape here, what we are going to do, we are going to take the angle here, make it sure that you have a pencil for a guideline and you are going to mark the angle. And the next thing that we are going to do is we are going to snip it, not until the sewing line. After I snip it I'll just make it sure that everything is closed. I'm going to baste this line so I'm going to baste stitch it and then later I am going to remove it. I am going to baste stitch it until the hemline. Now you don't need to back pack it because we are just basting it and we are going to remove it later. What we are going to do next is we are going to open the seam here on your back, on the center back and we are going to press it. We are going to press this seam open, leaving the vent on the right. What we are going to do next is we are going to remove the baste stitch line so using your scissors or your seam ripper you are going to remove everything. Et voilà! I patched the waistband and finished your hemline. Et voilà! So this is your final product. Actually this is my final product. This is the front side and you can see the waistband and you can see the two darts in front and let's move on to the side. This is the side seam. Those are the two darts in front and going at the back side you can see the back dart over there. I am sorry you guys I did not finish the zipper because I don't have any more time but as you guys can see those are the two back darts and going down that is the kickknit or the vent. There you go. Nice and clean. Anyways you guys thank you so much for watching my tutorial and if you guys like this video give it a huge thumbs up. If you're not subscribed yet hit that subscribe button and hit that bell button as well. See you guys again on my next tutorial from our jacket. Bye! God bless!