 Hey guys, this is Matt Beck from freesaloneducation.com. I'm here with a haircut for you guys. I know it's been a long time, so I'm excited that I got to do this one. I got inspired looking at a triangular graduation recently, so I wanted to share with you guys this cut that we're about to walk through this step by step. This is the finished product. So the difference here is we did sort of a classic graduation to start, but then we shifted it into a little more of a modern feel by adding layering to the top of the haircut, and then quite a few dry haircutting techniques at the end. So we're gonna go through this step by step. I wanted to show you guys the haircut. It looks awesome. I'm really excited about it, so I hope you guys enjoy this. And you can use it in the salon. That's the big thing. So make sure I would love to see your pictures. Tag us on Instagram at freesaloneducation or hashtag freesaloneducation. Also subscribe to us right here on this channel for more step by step videos, but right now we're gonna get started. So here is the step by step. Enjoy guys. All right guys, so we're gonna get into the haircut. I wanna start off the base of the haircut, working about an inch from the hairline with no tension whatsoever, combing the hair straight down, and just using my scissors to draw a nice straight line in the back. We're gonna work this as a square line, so you'll see me elevate the hair in the very back and just put it into my comb. This does two things. It makes it easier to do the cut because it's off of the neck, but then it also has a slight over direction and pushes the hair back. You can see it a little better there. Pushes the hair back, so I get a little more weight moving forward, which will start our triangular feel to the shape moving forward in the haircut. So the reason I like to cut the hair at a flat zero degree angle or right against the neckline at the beginning is the occipital bone's already gonna play a role in creating a almost 45 degree angle for me. So if I cut it flat to the neck because of the shape of the occipital bone, I'm pretty much creating a 45 degree angle. So that starts a nice graduation in there. If I elevate it anymore, it's gonna collapse the back shape. So now I'm gonna go in using a vertical section straight down center back and work a line that starts off at zero degrees and continues down to end up at about a 45 degree angle towards the bottom. So you could see coming straight off the head towards the top and then as I work my way down, the angle shifts a little bit and I get a little bit more of a layering effect towards the bottom. So starting out zero degrees straight off the head and then as it works down to mid-knuckle, then we're working more 90 degrees and then staying pretty much 90 degrees all the way through at that point. So now everything's coming straight back. I'm not over directing to the center back at this point. So I'm just over directing to the previously cut section. And then when I get to the corner here, right on the edge, this is where I shifted straight back with no over direction towards the center. So it's just this section comes straight back off the ear. Now we're gonna do the same thing on the opposite side. The only difference is now we're gonna be pointing our finger down in our, so you'll see my finger direction is down. Same angle using the same guideline as before just cutting from the bottom up instead of the top down. Same angle. You can see it's a zero degree coming off of the top where it comes out of the mid-crown area and then towards the middle gets to more of a 45 degree and then shifts into a 90 degree angle. So it's really important. I focus a lot on head shape because a lot of people look at finger angle as the angle that is what the haircut's all about. But I really look at head shape and finger angle because if you don't know what's going on in the head shape, then your finger angle could be messed up and you might think you're cutting a 45 degree angle when you're really cutting a zero degree angle. So just really focus on the head shape. Again, over directing straight back, keeping that same guideline in there. You can see that it's got a nice shift of the weight forward. What I like about this, a lot of people when they cut more of an A-line shape or triangular graduation, they over direct too far back and then they end up with too much weight in the front. So if you use that traveling guide in the back of the head and then once you get around that corner and more behind the ear, you just over direct everything back to that point and you won't get so much weight pushed to the front. So we're working pridal ridge down at this point. And I'm just, now I got stationary guide bringing everything back to right behind, the section that was right behind the ear there. So everything directed straight back, real simple. Nice elevation on this, you could elevate it more if they have a higher density of hair and you want to remove a little more weight. You could over direct it higher or elevate it higher but this is a medium density, nice mannequin head. So just straight back working with that elevation there. So pretty simple. Same thing on this side, this is our weak side. So this is the side that she parts her hair on. So we are going to go through this same way. So now we've sectioned off the top and we're working just on the weak side of the head and we'll go through same elevation, everything over directed straight back. So pretty standard, pretty simple at this point. So you'll notice me combing a lot and I've had comments, you know, we've done hundreds of videos, instructional videos on YouTube and a lot of people comment about the amount of times that I comb the hair. Well, you can see that I work the base of each parting that I make to get every little hair up there because if you're just doing a couple combs, you're not going to scoop up all those little tiny hairs. So you're not going to have a consistent haircut. So just make sure that you give it quite a few combs, keep everything very clean and make sure you're consistent. So yeah, I could have went all the way up that section but I needed to comb it one more time to make sure that my elevation was correct through the whole haircut. So don't rush yourself, make sure that you go through it clean and you're going to like your haircuts more and they're going to turn out better. So that's that side. Now you can see I measured up those two points. There's a short point in the back and then there's a longer point on the side. Now that I'm matching up and I'm going to cut using my finger angle short to long. That's going to allow me to keep that triangular shape pushing the weight forward. But what I want to do is create some nice short layered pieces in there to give it more of a modern textured feel. If I kept pulling everything over directing everything back it would have pushed a ton of weight to the front of the haircut, which would have been fine but this is going to give it a little bit, like I said a modern kind of textured feel to the haircut where they could use some kind of rod iron or a texture spray and have more fun with the haircut. So you can see I'm cutting, the back is the shortest point to the front being the longest point, keeping that weight moving towards the front but just removing a lot of the bulk out of the haircut. So we're going to do that all the way through the last section. Now keep in mind, I mean I'm stretching this pretty far at this point. So it's going to drop quite a bit of weight down to the left side of the head. It did remove, you can see some nice layers in there. We're going to use our brocato gel. Hold on, I like, it's got a really great hold to the haircut and we're going to blow this dry. So what I want to share with you guys is what I noticed as we blew out this haircut. You can see how the layers kind of move throughout the haircut. So what I want to do is go in after I iron the hair and just remove some of the bulk from the very front. That was really the only thing with this haircut depending on the density of the hair. You're going to want to go in to the very front of the haircut and remove some bulk. So we're going to go through some point cutting, taking sections pretty much exactly the same as I just did wet. So we're looking at the wet relationship and the dry relationship. This is, I did cut those strong lines in there so now I'm just going in and breaking them up using the tip of my scissor. This is the Mizetani DB20 scissor, one of my favorites for precision cutting and dry cutting. And I'm just going through and lightening up the lines. Now we're going to move into the back. The back, I just like to use the tip of the scissor. Still, again, it's the DB20 scissor. And just working through using the tip, the reason you want to go in sideways with the scissor and cut that line in the back is because no matter how sharp your scissor is, you're going to still push hair. So if you use the tip, you don't push the hair, you get a nice strong line in the back. So working that through. Thing I like about the DB20 scissor too, you can see the ball bearing. It's actually got a ball bearing screw to it. So it's got a nice smooth open and close to the scissor. Now we're going to go in with the tease cutting technique. This, I'm just pinching the hair so I comb a vertical section or a vertical parting in the hair and then I elevate with my hand, depending on, again, the density, but I'm going to elevate straight out pretty much on this and I'm going to go in half closing my scissor and just working in the texture to the haircut. This is on the weak side, guys. So really what you noticed before, I didn't add any layering to the weak side, really. So I was just over directing everything back. So there's a little extra weight in the weak side and I don't mind that. And a lot of times with the weak side, what I'll do is I'll leave some of that weight and then blow it dry and see how the weight looks on both sides of the haircut and how it matches up. And then I can go in and customize the weaker side of the haircut because if you layer the weak side too much, then you're going to have, you know, your client's going to have challenges styling it and the haircut's just not going to look super balanced. So that's just a personal preference of mine. Other people might do it differently, but that's how I like to do it. So more tease cutting just going through. I love this technique because first off, you're just pinching little pieces that you see that you want to add a little bit more movement to. And you can do it as much or as little as you want by the amount of hair that you pick up. So that's pretty much it on that. Again, it's going in, half closing the scissor. Don't close all the way, but you are cutting. And a little bit of slide cutting just to finish up the heavy side, guys. So just a little opening close and there you go. That's the haircut. Okay, so that's the video. I hope you guys enjoyed it. Make sure you hit that subscribe button and post below. If you want to see any haircuts out there, I would love to do them for you. So post in the comments anything that inspires you, maybe a celebrity name, whatever you want. I would love to walk you through the step-by-step of that haircut. So hope you guys enjoyed this triangular graduation. Hit the thumbs up, hit the subscribe, and check us out on freesaloneducation.com. Thanks guys and we'll see you on the next video.