 Welcome back to Retro Tech. Today we're still working on the Sony PVM 1420 and things have been a little wild around here, at least where I live. We did have a pretty torrential downpour of snow for the area earlier this week. And that was a couple of days after I ordered my parts for the Sony PVM repair and the parts were delayed and shipping because of that. So they finally came in late last night. And I was very happy because we had a second snowstorm happen here overnight, a couple of hours after these parts arrived. And we have another four inches of snow on top of things that we had left over from the earlier snow this week. So it's just been snow on top of snow. It's been pretty crazy. If you follow the news at all, there was a stretch of highway near here that was closed for 27 hours. Even a senator got stuck in 27 hours with the traffic on the highway, which I thought was pretty funny, maybe a little deserving for the politicians to be stuck in some snow there this time of year. Thankfully, nobody was hurt. Actually, it was kind of a little bit of a miracle. They said nobody was injured and there was no serious accident, but it has delayed the shipping of these parts. And what we did in that original video, if you want to fresher is we looked at the 1420, just an initial look at, we tested it. We went to troubleshoot the monitor to see what was causing our issues with our power. And we found, after a lot of looking around the board, a batch of very bad capacitors right in one of the main power areas over here on the board. So those were removed. The board was cleaned up. And again, if you want to see that and you've missed it to this point, go check out this link here. Otherwise, what we're going to do today is we're going to replace the capacitors in this thing. And then we'll reinstall the power supply into the monitor. And hopefully we'll get to power it on and do some testing and check out how this thing actually runs once we get this power supply repaired. So the capacitors isn't the only delivery I've been waiting on. I also ordered some fresh fuel for my boiler room down here because my tank is getting pretty low to empty. See this indicator here? I'm less than a quarter of a tank. So hopefully the snow will be moved a little bit so the fuel guy can come and pump me some heating oil or I'll be in big trouble because we won't have any hot water here at the Retro Tech Palace. And that means I'll be in hot water with Mrs. Retro Tech. All right, everybody, we're at the work station and we're going to get started. First we're going to look at our new capacitor kit. Just show you, we do have a mix of capacitors here since we had to get the right size as well as the right rating and rely on stuff that was in stock. So there are a mix of brands here. They are all top quality. And again, all of these match the diameter as well as the height and spacing as the old capacitors and the values. They're all here. I'll have a nice Google document listed in the description of the video for this capacitor list. That way if you happen to run across one of these 14 inch LNDs and have the same issue with the power supply then you can go ahead and prepare yourself by having this cap kit available and on hand. And I do know this is a common issue with this power supply board. I'm going to link to a video also in the description from a video I saw on a 1410. And I will tell you that they seem to have the person who made that video had the same problem with the exact same capacitors on what looked to be the same model of power supply board that we have here. Now that video did come to a pretty interesting conclusion on the actual performance of the monitor. Maybe we'll see something different on this 1420. I don't know, but hopefully we won't have to do the same thing they ended up doing. But if you do want to see something about a 1410 I'll link that below. But our tools are ready. Let's go ahead now and we're going to solder in all these capacitors. As we start to zoom through this installation of capacitors I do want to give you a couple of tips. Sometimes you will need to increase your iron temperature if you have damage to your PCB from either electrolytic fluid in this case or even sometimes you have ground connections that loop throughout the entire PCB and do need a little bit more heat on them to get your solder to flow. You could use additional flux and that would probably help. However, you're going to increase your cleaning time if you do that. And the good thing about the solder that I do use is it is rosin core solder. So there is already some of that flux built into the solder itself. But don't be afraid to increase your temperatures a little bit if necessary. Just be mindful that you don't burn anything while you do that, including a trace or a pad on your PCB. All right, here's our finished PCB. You can see the capacitors are in there all in the right spots. And I've also done a check for continuity to make sure that all the pads are connected. And then I've double checked to make sure they're all facing the proper direction. You will always want to check to make sure they're facing the proper direction. It's easy on a board like this where everything is facing the same way. And you can tell by how the negative lines on the capacitors, they're all facing the same direction. But that's not always the case. Sometimes they will switch directions. Now let's get this reinstalled into the monitor. And hopefully we'll get some power. All right, the board will simply go up here. And it does have a couple of connection points. So make sure you keep those clear. There's three of them, actually. Two on the right side and one on the left. I'm going to line up the screw holes with the posts, set it down. And then I'll insert the five screws, which are Phillips head, and mount the PSU first. OK, that's our last screw. Now I'll go over here and plug in the bottom cable and then the top cable. I'm sure one's going to power the screen. One's going to power probably the input board. And then over here is our main power. Of course, I'm going to say power the input board. I mean, it could be also splitting off into the front panel and other panels too. All right, there we have it. Our power board's been reinserted. I will tell you one thing on here I noticed while working on this, we all know that Sony PVMs in the CRT format didn't actually have any fans to cool any of the capacitors or internals. However, Sony added that on this LCD screen. There's one fan right up here. And then we've got two additional fans in the bottom to help cool areas of the monitor that were prone to heating. The interesting thing that you can note, so if you're designing something that generates a lot of heat, the place where there wasn't the fan is over here. And that's where our capacitors failed was in this area where that heat would have been blocked, especially from all these ICs and this heat transferring plate. I don't know why I can't. This heat sink would generate a lot of heat here and here. Now, this fan will blow on this area and cool this, but there's no fan to blow over here on any of these capacitors. So that has to be a big contributing factor to why they fail. Well, we're ready to do it. Let's go ahead and stick our power in here and see if we have any better signs of life from this PVM. Going to just plug the power cable in there. And hopefully, we'll get some power. A little nervous, though. OK, I see a green light come on. I did see a little flash on the screen. I'm seeing SDI. I'm able to switch it. Oh, yes. Look at that. I just pressed Menu. I've got it in line A. And yeah, we've got a pretty familiar site here. This is a Sony service menu. Now, this is just the standard menu. This doesn't look like it has all the service ability stuff in it. So that's probably under a different menu, maybe like the service menu that's hidden in the other PVMs. But wow, that's pretty awesome. So let's get in here. 1420, no option installed. Wow. So I think the next thing we probably want to do is actually plug something in here and let it see. Fortunately, I do believe we're going to have some issues it looks like with this LCD screen. I've got a single line coming down. Let's see if I power cycle, if that'll help anything. I doubt it will. So let's just turn this thing back on. Power's back up, and our line's still there. Now, it doesn't show up from every angle, that line. So anyway, let's hook something up into this and see how it looks. All right, I've plugged up my video input. I'm going to go ahead and try out the RGB input on here. So we've got green, blue, red, and then sync over here in yellow. And then we even do have an adapted mono audio from our stereo going in. So we'll test all of that. And I'm going to be using this bypassed, triple bypassed Sega Model 2 with an older EverDrive and then a SCART cable from Insurrection Industries. And I do believe this adapter was provided by Retro Upgrades in the UK. So just an idea of what we've got set up here. We're going to test it out. All right, so I'm so glad everybody's getting to experience this with me because I've not tried this at all. So let's see what happens if we can get some power to go back in there. And we'll get our screen to turn on. We're getting everything. What we're going to do is go RGB component, external sync. And then we do have game stuff here. So let's make sure that we've got all the colors and stuff. I was really concerned about lag on this. But let's see if we can get something that come up that's cool. I'm not going to lie, the colors don't look quite right here, bright, chroma, gamma. I don't really know what. Oh, here we go. So we could change our component level. So I'm going to change to STMP for component level. Oh, boy. Wow, that is just hideous. Oh, it's on component mode, dummy. There. OK, golly, I've been sitting here complaining. And that's the problem the entire time it's in component mode. Wow. Well, there we go. Good. The reds come back down. And everything looks pretty good. Yeah, that's much better. I mean, it still needs some color balancing. And that can be done. The thing I think that is interesting is I shouldn't have even been able to manually adjust those phase and chroma and aperture. Yes, there we go. OK, that makes sense. So there we go. I didn't really have a plan to set up and do full testing on this monitor yet. Obviously, it's got some issues where the geometry could be maxed out and then things like that. So I'm not really sure. Since there's no diggalls button, I'm not sure the exact if there is a specific way to get into a submenu. There might be. And then you could change adjustments like screen size and things like that. I'm just not entirely certain. Well, what I'd really like to do is set this up next to a PVM. And that way you could decide by side comparison of them. And then we'll also run some tests. I'll research the manual some more. We'll put it back on this and maybe even make somehow a stand to hold it up on. But that is going to do it for this episode on our LMD-1420. We got it working again. But look for that part three where we're just going to run all the tests on this, especially that lag test. I'm really interested to see how much lag this thing offers. I'm also going to see if I can do anything to balance out the colors and work on this overall screen any. But so far, so good. Everything's going well. I think Bob's going to be pretty happy.