 I'm coming in, I got it real nice and hot, so I like to start at the mid-shaft, roll it up a little bit. Hi guys, my name's Brian Hare, I am here on behalf of Free Salon Education, and today I wanted to go over another little styling thing. I had some pretty decent feedback from the blow-dry class that we did last week. I just wanted to go over, it's actually a really cool quick technique that I use a lot in the salon, especially when you're trying to make a really great impression, or if you've done a really, really exceptional job on someone's hair. And you just want to put that extra twist on the finish that just makes it look really, really great. So we're gonna jump right in. I've got my tool of choice today. I'm a big fan of Marcel Irons for this look, because there is a little bit of manipulation and twisting and turning and wrist work that you gotta do, so that Marcel just works nice and easy with that. That does not mean that it's mandatory, you can use whatever you want, whatever you're familiar with, but this is what we're gonna use today. I have prepped the hair with lots and lots of a thermal protectant. We're going in with a nice high heat, so you're gonna wanna make sure that you're not cooking the hair. I got Neuro from Paul Mitchell, they're Protect. All right, so I've divided her down the middle. I'm gonna do one look on one side, one look on the other. We'll start on the right side of the head. The look that I'm gonna be going with today on the right side of the head, I'm gonna have all of my curls going the same direction. It's gonna be, if you're thinking about it in terms of like, if you're doing perms, I'm not gonna be bricklaying these sections, it's gonna be much more stacked. I want all of my sections relatively the same size and try to get them as in a row as possible. So we'll jump right in and start with the more uniform side first. So we're starting in the back. Just like when we were sectioning for our blow-dry and I said you wanna get your section to mirror the brush a little bit so that it holds its foundation. We want a similar idea with these curls because I want these curls to hold some structure. So I don't wanna take a gigantic section and then apply it to an iron that's only this size because then any of that lift at the root that I'm trying to put in will just fall apart. So I'm coming in, I got it real nice and hot. So I like to start at the mid-shaft, roll it up a little bit. The hair towards the roots gonna always need a little bit more time to heat because it's newer hair, therefore less processed. So it's gonna need a little bit more encouragement to curl than the ends will. And then let that fall and then don't touch it. The big thing with this is that you wanna let these curls cool before you run anything through. Let that sit in a little bit and then I'm gonna slide down, curl back up, test it. When you can start to feel the heat through the curl that's when you know you've gotten all the way through and you're good to go. Unroll, unroll and then just let that end slide out. I'm not keeping it, I'm not really curling the ends but I do like to run the iron over the ends just to add a little extra smooth and finish to it. So I'm just working horizontal sections. Once I get up to a really wide section like this, this is where I was saying you want to pay attention because if there's too much over direction then you're not going to get a nice, that curl's just not gonna stay. So for this I'm actually gonna split this in half and then that'll give me two perfect sized sections for my curls to hold. A good rule of thumb for this when you're working is just to keep checking yourself. If it's super compromised hair then you're gonna want to get that heat low and make sure you're feeling because as soon as it starts to get warm that's all you need. My last section in the back, these are the sections all, everything from the parietal ridge up is where you really wanna pay attention and make sure that because this is what you have to look at. I was explaining this to my guests yesterday. You have to look at where this first ridge is gonna lie because this is the kind of stuff that plays into their face shape. If you want to accentuate cheekbones or whatever you wanna pay attention to where that first ridge is or where that first ridge is gonna fall because if you really need to make sure that you're not widening the look of their face then you're gonna make sure that the ridge falls a little bit lower than the center of the face. But if that's not an issue for you or you're looking for more volume then in these sections up top you are gonna over-direct up a little bit more to give yourself some more lift. Again, think about how much drag you want. The more drag you have, more casual this look is. If you get closer to the root with it it's gonna have a more structured look and it's gonna look more like a head of curls. So when I grab the hair rather than just grabbing it here I'm sort of over-directing it forward with the iron. So grab and then pull forward before I clamp down and that way I'm keeping it more of a natural fall and I'm really just applying enough pressure to hold it in place. I'm not smashing it onto the iron. How you take it out is just as if not more important than how you're putting this curl in there. All right, and this last one this is one of those important ones I'm telling you if someone doesn't have the perfect face like Dolly here you're gonna wanna pay attention to where that first ridge lies. You can start to see how these curls are sitting in here. So that first ridge is gonna hit roughly around the eye which could be really pretty. So if you want that higher ridge then you're gonna over-direct more and give it more volume, more of a base foundation for that curl. If you want looser, softer then you're gonna let it drop, do your curl down here and then you won't start to get that first kick out of the ridge until much lower on the face. Okay, so now, same thing, starting in the back to get a feel for her hair. Where the last time I was trying to pay attention I was trying to keep my sections the same or as uniform as I could get them because I wanted those curls to be as uniform as possible because I want this to end up like a big fancy finger wave almost. Over here, total opposite. This I want that kind of natural bouncy beachy, no two curls are exactly the same kind of feel. You gotta be curling them all sorts of directions. It's a fun look but still pretty similar application. So I've got it rolled up, you're doing great but only part of the hair is touching the iron. So by unwrapping and then rolling in a little bit I'm just touching some more hair and I'm making that curl a little bit less of the ribbon and a little bit more of like that wave kind of thing. When working around the face in this look because I am trying to have curls that are gonna bounce off of each other I still wanna be careful about which curls around the face go forward because when you have curls move forward and inward it closes the face off and isn't always the best look. So that nice dramatic look is always to have open the face up like theater curves. Okay so this is one of those spots where I was saying this side will differ from the other. So I've got this one last panel that I'm gonna work on and I don't want it to fall too uniform with the curls below it. So I can see exactly where my sectioning was. So I'm going to intentionally make this different than the last one. I got two good ones out of here. So I could either make this one one or three because it's the last section and it's one of the ones that's gonna give me the look. I'm gonna do three. So because I know I want this money piece back away from the face I'm gonna do the first one away from the face the middle one towards the face and then the money piece away. There is nothing like a wide tooth comb. You can use your fingers and everything but the uniformity of what a wide tooth comb is gonna give you works so fantastic. If you're going for more of a polished look I like to grab something like I'm using Quickslip from Paul Mitchell. So now I checked, we're cool, curls have cooled down. So we're gonna come in, I'm gonna comb this but this time I'm not looking for everything to come together. So I like to go in with some kind of texture spray. Give me some spray, give me some enjoyment and you see now it still has the polish of a nice finished look but not the uniformity that we have on the other side. All right guys, so that's it. I hope you got some tips from this, some tricks. Be sure to give me a follow on my Instagram at Hairstyle and go to freeselineeducation.com to download our app so that you can always stay on top of all of our classes. So thank you guys so much. I will see you next week.