 All right, so I want to give a quick shout out to everyone that has placed orders over the last day or so. Your tools are on its way and I appreciate it. All the carving combs, the brushes, all that stuff. If you want to get some, freesloneducation.com. Thanks for the support guys. Let's get this vlog started. All right, so we just ended a fun day of cutting in the salon today. I put together a haircut for you guys that I think you're really going to like. It's a consistent layered cut within a medium shape. So let me show you guys what that really means. We have a nice strong fringe, nice consistent layers throughout, medium length hair. They can wear this curly, it can wear it straight, but really what we're going to work on today is focusing on shape and consistency, elevation, over direction, all of those things. So check out this vlog guys. I think you're going to like it. Thank you so much for posting all of the comments that you have been every day and helping support the vlog and sharing it and all of that. So thank you for that. Here we go. Let's get started. All right, so we're going to start off today's technique using the basic four quadrants. This is definitely something that probably the first thing that you learn in beauty school is a section high point of the head down to behind the ear and then directly down center back and a center parting in the cut. And we're going to work from the occipital bone over to behind the ear. That's going to start off really what I want to do. We're going to create a, we'll call it square layers or even layers, whatever is comfortable for you guys. But we want to create a straight line of layers horizontally in the back. We're going to take vertical sections. I broke up the back quadrant into two. So from occipital bone down, we're going to work that to the nape of the neck. But I'm just creating a nice straight line vertically within this haircut. Now the key things that you want to focus on during this cut is your over direction. I'm over directing to the previous section so that I can create a straight line horizontally. So hopefully that makes sense. But you'll see my scissor technique within this is when I'm lower, I'm going to work with my thumb in the opposite direction in the scissor. That's really just for comfort. If you guys are comfortable cutting the normal way, that's fine. But when I work on that top section, I'll be cutting a typical palm to palm way. Now I'm working vertically. You'll see me take some new hair, separate my guide in half, and just make sure that you have a clean guide that you can see through the cut. That's vital to creating that straight line in the back and keeping that consistency. Now when I get to the corner of the cut, this is really what's going to create the square feel and push that weight into the corner. We're over directing everything straight back. So everything straight out of the head from the center back, but then as we move forward, everything's still coming straight back to me. So body position is important in this to make sure that you're standing directly behind the head and that you don't round off that corner and create more of a round shape in the haircut. So now I've moved into my second quadrant, which is on top of the head. This is where the buildup of weight is going to happen. And I think a lot of people have challenge with layers because they don't recognize the fact that the head is starting to move away. This is where we're going to build up a ton of weight in this haircut, which I actually really like and I think it creates a really nice shape for this particular cut. And we're going to go in and do some dry cutting to skinny up that weight later on. So I'm okay with it. But it's really important to understand what is happening with the weight because even though we're over directing this back to the same exact spot and same exact elevation, everything's straight out, it's still shifting the weight differently within the haircut. So make sure that you keep that in mind. Again, we're going to get to this corner and everything's going to come straight back to us. So the best way to check your consistency, we're going to do it in a second. We're going to do a little bit of cross checking. So what I'm going to do is take a horizontal section and pull that out and just check it with my fingers to make sure that I have a nice horizontal straight line. And that lets me know that I stayed consistent throughout that entire panel. Now we're going to take the same thing, occipital bone over. The difference in this part of the cut is that I always want to be combing the new hair that I'm taking into my guideline. My guideline is coming from center back of the head. So now I'm going to be scooping underneath the hair, still using the fine teeth of my comb, but pushing that hair with kind of a backhand motion into my guide so that I keep that guide nice and strong. If I were to do it the opposite way, the same way that I did it on the left hand side, I'd be pushing my guideline from where it lives. And if you do that, you create a shorter guide every time. So you're going to end up with one side of the head longer than the other. So you can see same scissor technique. So as I'm working on the bottom, I have my thumb in the opposite direction. This takes a little bit of getting used to. It's something I've been working on lately, but it definitely helps out a lot. I was just showing you guys right there that everything's going to come straight back. If you over-direct too far back towards center back of the head, you're going to get too much length on one side. If you over-direct too far to the right towards the ear, you're going to get less length and you're going to round off the shape. So you want to make sure you're straight back on the head. So now we're working on top of our fingers. As we work across the head shape, the hardest part when you have your elbow in the air like this is to keep that elevation. So it's really important to have a strong guideline as you work through this part of the haircut. The reason I have my elbow up in the air is because if I was still to continue working palm to palm, which you could, if you put the head low enough, you'd be alright. But this is more comfortable for me, so this is the way that I'm going to do it. But if you guys want to do it the other way, you absolutely can. So working through straight back again, keeping that consistency, keeping that nice straight horizontal line, working those vertical sections and cutting the hair. So you can see that buildup of weight that's happening right around the occipital bone. That's because of the way that the head shape is turned. So if you look at the top of this section, we're cutting at basically zero degrees. So it's definitely going to be at the heaviest point right at the top of the layer. When you guys do those haircuts and you see that you have that kind of top heavy layer in your haircut, it really has everything to do with elevation. We're creating it purposely in this cut, but in future cuts as you're working, you may want to elevate the hair a little bit more to take out that weight. So now we're just going to find the corner of the cut and create a horizontal parting along the parietal ridge, and then we're going to work vertical sections based off of that. So if you see that short point right there, that's our guideline from the back. That's matching up the corners of the cut. We're also going to go through and cut this shorter, this hair shorter. So what this layering is doing around the outline of the haircut is just skinnying it up, and then when we go through, we can cut our solid blunt line at the end. So straight out from the head, same thing, working a traveling guide. I know you guys can't see every angle of this, but everything's coming straight out from the head and just working that horizontal line like we've talked about. Same thing on the opposite side, combing the hair back into my guide. That's the important part, just make sure on both sides of the head that you're always combing that new hair towards the guideline. You don't want to shift your guide from where it should be coming out of the head. As soon as you shift the guide, it diffuses the line, and that's where a lot of questions have come in. How do you keep a strong guideline? You don't move it. You make sure that you move everything that you're combing that's new that you want to cut into a guide and keeping that guide where it should be. We'll work this all the way up to the end where the fringe lives, and then there we go, last section. So you can see those layers popping around. This is a great haircut for curly hair. I think that little extra weight from the layering sits well with curly hair and also allows the curly hair to kind of rest out. On straighter hair, if they're going to iron their hair, we're going to show you that end result as well. That's when you want to go in and remove some of that top heavy weight. I want you to look at the elevation on the fringe as we work this through. This is the Mizutani DB20 scissor I've been using it the entire time. This scissor I love because I use a 5.7 inch blade, and it's really sharp and really powerful. So it doesn't push the hair at all, so I can get these nice bold lines in my haircuts. So the fringe, I'm elevating slightly, pretty much keeping it at a zero degree angle. So if you see it coming off of the head shape, it's held at a zero degree to keep it a nice weight line in there, and then we're going to go in and cut it dry to finish it out at the end. So we put a little brocado mousse in the hair before we blow it dry. I'm using the Ergo paddle brush that we have on Friessalon Education and the Ergo blow dryer. We're going to get this blow dryer done really quick. It's a nice flat wrap. You can really see that shape kind of unfolding. Then we're going to go through with our Vibra straight iron and just smooth out the shape. It's really important. You guys see me smoothing hair pretty much every haircut. I don't do this because we're going to always style it that way. I do it so that you can see the weight and see how the weight is moving throughout the haircut. So you're going to see as I'm ironing this how heavy it is around the occipital bone area. You can see that it pretty much shapes out a bob haircut in there. So we're going to keep this a more medium length. We're not going to go too short with it, but you always could if you wanted to go through there and polish it out that way. So we used our Vibra straight iron. We got it all smoothed out. Now I'm going to go through and I'm going to cut my baseline. So a lot of people go in and they cut the baseline first in a haircut. I don't do that all the time because sometimes I want to create the shape on top of the head first and within the layering. And then I go through and create the perimeter, especially when I'm working with a nice solid hard line. So I'm going through with the dry cut. Again, this is still the DB20 scissor. Everybody asked me what is my all around scissor for dry cutting and wet cutting. This is the one. Because it's out of 5.7 inch blade I can cut wet and dry because it still holds the power and doesn't push the hair. So you'll see it going through. I can create those really strong lines in there. The DB20 is made up of nanopowder metal, steel, which is basically it means that it's made of way smaller particles than a typical scissor. Typical scissors are they don't match up well with the metal so you get more of a grinding feel when you cut hair. The nanopowder metal, every molecule is the exact same size and shape. So they match up well together so you just get a cleaner, more precise cut and a sharper edge on this scissor. So you're noticing that I'm going back and forth with cutting. This has a lot to do with the fact that this is a mannequin head. But I do want to work that line. I don't want to push the hair that much. So working back and forth, just getting that line put in there. And I didn't want to take out a lot of this detail work. A lot of, I feel like a lot of DVDs that I've watched in the past, they show you cut, they cut one line and then all of a sudden it's perfect. It takes a lot of work to create those perfect lines in a haircut. You cut the structure wet and then the detail work dry takes a long time. That's why when you go to a hair show and you see Sassoon cutting one haircut for an hour and a half, two hours, it's because they're creating a perfect haircut. Perfect haircuts don't happen in 15 minutes. That's why you have $15 haircuts and you have $150, $200 haircuts because there's time involved in creating a perfect cut. So I'm going to go through, do some point cutting, still using that DB20 scissor. It works for that as well. So I just want to soften the heaviness in this shape. Now the key to point cutting is to make sure that anytime you pull the hair out, you're pulling it out exactly the way that you cut it when it was wet. If you start just pulling the shape around and then carving into it and really taking out chunks, then you're going to change the entire shape of the cut that you created. So you'll notice when I go in with my point cutting, I'm going in nice and vertical, parallel to the hair, so I'm not removing a ton of hair. I'm just softening it and I'm bringing everything out exactly the way I cut it when it was wet so I don't alter anything within the haircut. So here is the end result of the shape. I like to give it a little spin to show you guys really how that shape unfolds within the haircut. So the layering, how it falls together, that shape that it's created. So I hope you guys can use a ton of these techniques in the salon. Let me know what you think in the comments below. Hit the like button, hit the share button, and we'll see you guys tomorrow on the next video. Thanks.