 Alright, so we're here for no cooling call. I've shown a unit that had grey stuff leaking out of it, blew out the trap, rinsed off the coil, and fixed it. As you're ready to leave and the guy says, no, that's not the right unit. This is the unit. So we're over here and it's not running. Thermostat's turned on. We're checking voltage. We've got 240-something coming in on each leg, and so we've got all three legs here, but I have nothing on my common R, which just got to be a safety device of some sort, tripped out. Wow, I actually can read it. That's unusual. Alright, so what would break our R? So R comes in. So we check these fuses and we have two of them that are blown, which is kind of interesting that the outdoor fan contactor is open because they're breaking two legs, but the third leg's wired hot. So that leg that is feeding it is the one that's probably going to ground, otherwise it should be isolated. There's two blues, two yellows, two blacks. We got two fans. So we're obviously isolated here, so we've got two different fans there. I can't really undo that very easily. So they crammed all three of those things on there. So there you can separate them a little bit, but your third wire there, try feeding your power for your transformer over here. This one here I can't even undo. Why you got one thick fat one and one light one? Are they splitting that somewhere else? One comes, connects over the transformer thing, and splits all up. I think I'll share that. Black goes straight over to the transformer. Also comes down to L1 on this board. Outdoor fan, another fan, another sharing off of that too. Boy, they got all kinds of crap being fed off of that. I guess it didn't look close enough. Before the contactor, they're feeding the indoor fan motor. And then the black one, the other leg comes down, and then the black comes down because the board out of the board comes back up here and connects to the black. So all that crap is tied onto those fuses. I hate fuses. Why didn't they just put it on here with breakers? And the next question going to be is do I have that funky 25 amp fuser on my truck? Now is the indoor fan three phase? Does not look like it is because it's got a capacitor? So no, it's not. So I doubt that is our problem. Let's go over here and check around on it, which probably won't get it. But let's check it anyway. Nope, our indoor fan is not the problem because it's isolated here at the contactor. Here's the outdoor to here, down to here. So sometimes I like to follow wires. So, assuming this makes it easier to see what's going on here. So this one here goes up. So the big yellow and the big black one both go to the fans, outdoor fans. This one here, we got one leg there isolated. Now we know it is. Let's see if it's too ground. That is the outdoor fan motor. Here's the other outdoor fan motor. This one shared with the transformer. Make sure the transformer is this yellow light wire here. And this is why you want to make sure your power is off and locked out. This is the ones that are shorted. Yep, I'm picking it up on my heater there. I'm hitting resistance. It's not beeping right now. It's not low enough. So let's undo these two and find out which one's the actual culprit. So that one's only touching one side. That one's got 48,000. This one here goes to the other side. So they're actually looping through. Yeah, it's feeding two different ones. And they're going then to the black which then goes to SR2. Again, black going to the crankcase heaters, yellow is feeding both of them. Both of them picking it up. So what's happening is if it's shorted internally completely, it'll loop through it and back on the other leg. So they'll both show shorted until you isolate it back here at that connection point on the black. So that's why it's looping through. Unfortunately, we'll have to go to one of the heaters here and isolate it to do it, which we've got some right here, but the actual junction of that yellow thing is right here coming in. You could always chop it right there if we didn't want to dig into there, but that wouldn't look very professional. Let's do this one because it's closest, but you know probably won't be this one. There it is. There's that crankcase heater going to the black wire going down. So a better way to find out than to snippety snip. Let's check it and see what we got now. That would isolate the one side. Make sure we're still alive. Nothing there, nothing there. So I would say that that was our heater that was screwed. So now to confirm it, go down here and go to that heater, which is right here. We can just strip this turkey back and the other side of it, which is right here. There we go. Both of them are stripped. Verify we're still good. Go to this. I keep that one away from it. There we go. The resistance is coming through there to ground. Take your point where you want it at. There or there, either one. So that thing is shorted. That is your short. I don't know if that, I don't, I don't seem like it'll pull out. That does not look like it'll pull out. Well, we're going to snip those so that they know that something's not right. And because we've got wires feeding all kinds of sorts of different things, this right here, we've got to close up too. So these two here will tape, you know, together as a pair so that we know that these are our crankcase heaters and we'll label it. There we go. I know this will go together and we'll leave this a little long. We'll fold it back on itself and then we'll use my blue marker to label it as crankcase heater. See how we just made a tag here? C, C, H. Get some wire nuts on that. Put those on there. Might be, might stick a little better. Yeah, it's holding on there pretty good. It's eating the casing of the wire. Those ain't falling off. So there's that. I'll just check these compressor lugs to see if they're tight. They seem like they are good. All right, what we could do, I'm going to look through the truck some more but I'm pretty sure I don't have anything. We can add a little spacer of metal in there to help that make its contact point. Not exactly what I prefer, but at this point, if they need the cooling, what are you going to do? Are you going to go for perfect? I guarantee you we probably don't have any at the shop. Probably have to be ordered. We're not in our usual town that would have electrical. So let's look a little closer to this. We need about a nickel's worth. So we can get some THHN and put it at the bottom there. Put it in the pocket. I don't want to put it on this in there because it's kind of what it is. I don't like it when that doesn't even really touch. Even this one here, it don't get tighter until it gets to the very end. About the same here. So you can kind of, I guess that one there kind of gets up better. What we're going to do though is we're going to come back and change this. This is a temporary fix and if things don't work out, this is a 20 amp fuse versus the 25 that we needed. The reason why I'm getting away with the 20 is because that crankcase heater is not going to be pulling amperage. So I would say it's going to be probably a good portion of that amperage that it was rated for. So let's see if this is able to make a little more of a spacer here. What kind of make us a little bit of a spring. This is not what I would like to do and be honest with you, I've never even tried it. So I don't even know if it's going to work. But it's worth giving it a shot I suspect. Yeah, yeah. Device in here that was shorted. So now it's just a matter of finding the freaking fuse that'll fit because it's a weird fuse from 20 some years ago that we don't use anymore. 1492. Yeah, pretty much. Mayflower Express. So trying to make something. Bypass it. Yeah, can't bypass it but I'm trying to make a 20 amp fit but it's a little shorter. So I'm kind of put some metal in there to get me the extra length I need. Are you guys even using this in that area? Yeah. Back here they are? Yeah, it's the back air commuter. I mean are they using it like this week like through the week or is it just the weekends? Yeah, it's Tuesday night and then on the weekends. Okay. Tuesday and Friday for sure. Okay. I mean because I can get the part tomorrow or the next day or whatever but I didn't know if it was that big of a deal for night or not. They're messing with me. I'll probably be fine here in a minute. I just gotta grab some more wire and try to make it so that it'll fit a little tighter. All right, so went and got some PHH in. See if this works a little better. Once I kind of figured out what it takes to do it just doesn't take very much. Just a slither. So I'm just kind of doing one little fold here and I can pull this right back out. So you know we are not bypassing the fuse. That would be a no-no. So it's still fused. Just make it fit. You can check the amperage here and here once it's running. So that'll tell us where we're out on that. I really don't like the way they did that wiring. That really sucks. That is less than desirable. So I got a nice breaker here for everything else. Now 47, 47 and 22 but nothing. I'll just check these out. Make sure they're not loose. All right, well let's get this cover on and get her started. All right, the old beast kicked on. The water starts pouring off the side. Wonderful. Six on the other. Let's see what our compressors are pulling here. 26. Fairly supposedly it worked on this not-too-long stripper. Two screwdrivers. Let's grab a couple screws and the button is turned up. All right, so that's going to ramp that one up there. Not real complex. Just needing to track down the wires. You know, you may not like the way I do it. That's the way I do it. We got there eventually. So it's fixed. Well, it's running and we'll get back with the right fuses and I got to check to see if we can get a replacement crankcase heater if we even want to do it. I don't know. All right, we got a new crankcase heater with some thermal paste. There's the heater itself and we've got the correct fuses. So let's get this thing in there real quick. Now I was told this may not come out and it didn't seem like it wanted to wiggle so we may have to drill that out. Browser's off and here's our fans. Actually it's not too badly warm. That one definitely has got some warmth to it. I mean, it wasn't the ideal way of doing it. But it's taking a few days to get back and you know, what do you do? It was safe. I mean, I want to make sure you understand that. That's all plastic in there. All we did was basically extend the length and the fuses we used were actually smaller than the original fuses. The original fuses, which even these are hot and this is in the same spot. I think it's just horrible design. I mean, it's really, it doesn't fit in there very tight. I mean, it's kind of crappy. I don't know if there was a spring in there originally. Like I said, I haven't worked on too many of this particular model. It's definitely a little older one. And there's that one all out of there. So we didn't damage anything. Nothing's, nothing's messed up. Like I said, there's not much of a spring to that as it gets back in there. Make sure it's all clean. And then the top two are the only two that we're on with the heater. So we don't have to worry about replacing that third one because that's the reason why I didn't blow is because it was not being used for those things. Hi there. Are you going to need a side for anything? Um, not really. The disconnect's in there, but I did it from out here. So I mean, if you got to go, not a big deal, but Well, I just got two errands to run if I take a half hour. Yeah, you should be fine. Yeah. So the new ones right here, here's the thermal paste. Here's that little ring thing that helps hold it in place. That kind of slides on to there from what I'm seeing. And this is the first one of these I've had to replace this particular design. So we'll go ahead and get that on there and then we'll squish that around. I'm sure this not only helps get good heat transfer, but it's going to probably be somewhat of like an anesthesia of some sort. I would think it definitely would keep the crap out of the well from getting in there. Look at that. Just like new. And that gives you a nice, long wire here that we really don't need. So I might as well go ahead and run this about to make it all the way back to the contactor. Yeah, I can. I can make it all the way back to the contactor. Yeah, there's the two wires going back. It's almost kind of pointless. We've got the through here, back up through here, and it'll actually hit the penetration through there. And then we'll be able to tie on to the same location that the other ones were. And we'll have no couplings or anything like that. There we go. We'll wire tie that all back up again. I'm going to try and see where it's at. All right, so we've got those on there. I was looking at these. Those look like dummy terminals. They don't have any continuity between the bottom power feed and there, and they have nothing to the top wires appear, which is your low voltage. I've never seen contactor dummy terminals, and that's what it looks like to me. There's nothing but a spade terminal there with a nut or a screw going right into the base of the contactor. I've not seen that before. Usually you just see a double up or something like that. So that's something new I've never noticed before, unless it has some sort of normally open, normally closed type switch mechanism on it. So anyhow, we've got the wire for it coming to here and to there. So we'll amp that here in a second and make sure it works. Get everything strapped up. Everything's good to go there. I got this all back together. Only thing I'd like to clean up is that wire there, which I don't know if there's a good way to crawl back in there. All right, it wasn't the easiest thing in the world to do, but we got a wire tied back here. Kind of strapped it up in here. Gotta at least keep it out of the mud that's down there, and that mud's got rocks in it and vibration and stuff, you know, eventually could eat into that wire. They've got it strapped over there in that corner of the foot. So we should be good to go there. I don't have any of those caps for that king valve. So that's about it on that. All these up here seem to be fairly okay. I don't particularly love them, but there's only so much you can do, and it's better than what it was. Got this all strapped up, so we're good there. Nothing's close to rubbing into anything. They've got a nice rubber shroud or whatever there for that, and everything's back together here. So like I said, we've got our new fuses here, 25 amperes, which is what they had in there before. Doesn't tell you what exactly they were on the schematic, so hopefully they're the right ones. So let's go ahead and check our amp draw here. We've got 0.4 amps on that one, and we've got 0.4 amps on that one. I'm going to our leads here on this. That's until the 1.1 so far. We'll turn on our compressors. There goes our blower, and we'll see what happens here in a second when it kicks on. Do you have any rush? Kind of curious to see how bad that is. Double the size of the actual working amp, whether they shut it off. So that's the third phase of, it's not going to single phase or anything, so it didn't for deaf use at all because that's where the load of, you know, the short slash load fuses because it was just microseconds. A few 47 grabs things up. If you enjoyed the video, make sure you give it a like, subscribe, click notification bell, and until next time, we'll catch you guys on the next one.