 Alright people, we've heard your requests for us using voiceovers and stuff so this is us testing our options right now until we get a real grown-up microphone in. So I'm just showing you right now with Jeffrey's hand how reflective this gold is. It's probably the best you can get as far as like a gold American-ish that's like $7.95. This particular one is by Montana. Looks like this. It's gold, it's shiny, the pants dirty but this is what we like to use for our base coats I guess. When you see us using gold in the piece it's usually by Kryolan but we just wanted to base this out in gold all the way around. And then we added the push pins on the bottom in the corners and taped it off in order to make finishing the bottom easier. We also like to use push pins in this fashion so that you can see there's a clear ledge under the bottom where we can like lift up easily. Yeah. Yes, that's the word I'm looking for. Yeah. So here we are all set up. So have your gloves. The ink that we're using is by Doc Martens. It's hydrous, a little focused. This one is in teal. We like to use inks because they have a really great color and they're transparent. The white we're using is by Art District. It's just a regular titanium white. And we like to use this because it's thicker and it gives us good cells, typically no guarantees. We always do something crazy because resin. The resin that we're using is by Embiratens Light in this piece. Most of the other ones but it's two part resin as usual. It's a one to one ratio. So since this resin is two part, it's a one to one ratio resin. You have to measure it out exactly just when you jump. You'll have a lot of problems. I couldn't go through this on every video but have on it because it is so important. Make sure it is equal parts because if it is not you're going to have problems. If you use too much resin, you're going to end up with weak spots. And if you use too much cotton, your resin is going to set too fast. So it's super important that you use equal parts, measure it. It's also important to note that you should always super mix it fairly every time all the time because if you don't you'll end up with weak spots in your resin and you'll end up having to sand it off, scrape it off and start over. This is never a good time. So just be thorough. Don't worry about weak spots or anything like that. Make sure you scrape the sides, stick the bottom of your cup and mixing apparatus so that you can make sure everything is equally mixed. If you bake, you should not have a problem with this at all. Same science. Exactly the same. So I'm spinning out the clear resin that we're using because I want it to be able to spread really equally over the gold that we have laid down. The gold that we're using is really tricky because once anything is on it, it will show like crackling, so we wanted to have a good pour on it to try to reduce the odds of it leaving lines about where it's been. So trial and error as usual. So we always use a heat gun or a torch to reluquify or get bubbles out and move our canvas around. I'm also bringing in a blow dryer to further facilitate our moving the resin around all the way to the edges. And you can see here that we left it in one spot for too long and kind of picked up in some spots, track lines. That sounds boring, but I don't know what else to call it. You should be good. Anyways, so next we add some burn color. We're starting with white because we find that putting white down on top of clear blends itself easier to lacing and cells. People ask us all the time how much pigment we use for our colors, and it really honestly depends on how opaque you want the things, the things, the shades, the colors, your resin. Our inks we tend to use one dropper and with the white we use even less because it's thicker, it's a heavy body. If you use too much of it, then you'll end up with like a marshmallow of consistency and to correct that you can put more resin in it or you can fit it with a heat gun for a second. Also, disclaimer, don't use a heat gun without cancel supervision will burn yourself like I do almost every time. So anyway, once you have your colors on, put some heat on it and tilt it around so that it gets a really fluid together direction. We also like to use a blow dryer to use a burner to move our pigments around. It also is a great way to generate a bell in your leaf. So now you can see where some of these bells have popped up, where the lacing has popped up. And since we didn't use any gold on the top part of this, there isn't any painting, but we're having more clear resin. So I don't know how we're going to incorporate that yet. We may just decide to streak it on. I'm not sure how to do that yet, but we're still working with it. This is usually the point in a pour or acrylic actually. No resin that will tend to break out a little bit because you only have so much time to work with it before it starts to stand. And the resin that you may have worked out will probably be useless. We're going to see what we can do with some gold. So we figured it out. Spilled some spray paint onto where we had puddles of resin that had come off of this piece. And Jeff has picked it up with a paint can opener. We re-liquified it with the heat gun real quick so that we didn't fade our resin. And he just hooked them up and ran it through the piece. He could probably use a popsicle stick or a dropper, probably. But we were running short on time and this is what we had handy. So that's what we used. We hear all about telling you exactly what we did, whether it works or not. And that's what we did. Well, I think it works better because of the hook on the end of the can opener. It holds the paint. As you run it through it, you can see the bigger spots where you start and when you finish it's kind of thinned out. I don't know what I was looking for. The thinned stuff, the bigger parts work. It depends on how much you have on there. In any case, it turned out looking really good in the piece. And it's definitely a technique that we're going to use in the future. Probably try to refine the different but similar way to apply this. So now that we're happy with where the gold ends for the most part, we're going to hit it with the heat gun one more time. Pop any leftover bubbles from our stirring and adding. And also tilt it a little more times just to further incorporate the gold into the pieces. Here she is, the set and final piece, how of her glory. She turned out really well. Very smooth finish. We've got cells. We've got lacing, superficial painting that we added right at the end. But we really love this piece. She sold really quickly and we hope you guys like our tutorial. If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments box below. Thank you so much for all of our supporters and our recent donors. Actually every donor. It really helps us to keep our dream alive of living off of our artwork. And we can't thank you guys enough for watching. Stay tuned.