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Dodge Caravan 3.3L 3.8L water pump replacement.mp4

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Published on Aug 23, 2011

This is a 2007 with only 67,000km on it.

Comments • 736

Gene Callen
My wife's van broke down and I was able to fix it using this video and one other video. You did a very nice job of explaining the process step by step. I have a 2001 Chrysler town and country with a 3.8 V6 and there was no need to drop the motor. With just a small amount of maneuvering the water pump came out past the frame and went back in easily as well. Thanks!
ShawnCFarm
+Gene Callen I'm glad it was a help too you. More videos like that on my channel
vanpenguin22
Thank you Shawn C, a good service you provided here. Hope you  don't mind if I throw in a little warning to the do it your selfers out in You tube land as to the a snag I ran into. The bottom most mounting bolt in the 6:00 position is right in the way of the stream of drippage caused by the leak. The bolt is steal and both the body of the pump and the structure it mounts to are cast aluminum. Thereby we have dissimilar metals and moisture which leads to galvanic corrosion. As is often the case, the corrosion welded the bolt to the aluminum. I busted the bolt trying to turn it. Please, folks, Heat it up and use penetrating oil and lots of patience on that sucker. Gather your exertion gradually, and pray that the rest of your vehicle is more well engineered than the distribution of those bolts. Thanks again Shawn C. Would like to work with you some time.  
Brad Parmenter
vanpenguin22 I had the same problem with the bolt snapping the head off. I had to drill and use a botl extractor kit to get it out.
GreenerGatsu
your tip about lowering the engine by taking out the 3 mounting bolts is solid gold. Thanks!
Dominik K
Hello, I'm from Europe and I have a Dodge Grand Caravan 2004 160kkw 3.8 engine . The problem is as follows : Auto also has a gas installation Prins . I bought it from the original owner who pulled him from Dackoty . When I fire on a cold motor car is all about until the warm up starts to run unevenly , shakes car display errors PO300 , 301 , 302, 303, PO132 and P0202 , 205. These spark plugs, cables , checked the ignition coil throws up his hands no mechanic I do not know where the problem ... the worst as odpoalony warm. Please help Dominik
Dominik K
I know what you mean but I have checked these errors and nothing to show for not
Bill Nowak
THANK YOU!!! I am not a mechanic, and I am not in the position where I can afford to hire one. I just changed the water pump in my 2001 Dodge Caravan (3.3 flex fuel) using the instructions in this video; it took only 2.5 hours to complete the work and the job was easier than it looks in the video. Again, THANK YOU!!!!
ShawnCFarm
+Bill Nowak No problem
vanpenguin22
Oh, damn, That's what I was going to include. You don't need an impact wrench to crack loose the front engine mounts, and you can drop the motor down all you need to and leave the three bolts in 3 or 4 turns. Just do indeed support it from underneath. And belt tensioner? Tip of a long 3/8" yes 3/8" drive socket extension into the square hole and the side of the extension against the frame rail as the fulcrim. Nothing to it.
larry lono
thanks this video was very helpful!
ShawnCFarm
+larry lono No problem more on my channel
Farouk S Bawa
you're the bomb,the instruction  were given like a pro (socket sizes and other tricks) Thank you.
dudewheresmycar
This is for the experienced !!! I've found the best way to "burp" air from cooling system is to fill Radiator to about 3" from top. Keep pan underneath to catch any spills. Prep for this procedure. Have Coolant, flashlight, radiator cap, shop rags all within reach. Start engine, turn on heater full hot and watch coolant level. It should begin going up and down as coolant hits thermostat. Hot from engine it starts to open, then cold from radiator makes it close again. Then here's the tricky part which is two handed. If the vehicle has a mechanical throttle, using one hand open throttle to get about 1500 rpm and hold it. The coolant will begin to bounce faster. Eventually you will see squirts from cross tubes in radiator. Again they start and stop. Eventually you will have a steady stream thru them. This is where you take your free hand and fill radiator (still holding at 1500 rpm, throttle hand may be getting tired by now but DON'T LET GO or it will be old faithful geyser. This is the dangerous part) Do this several times till level stabilizes, fill and wait till it is full. Put radiator cap on fully (two notches) and now let off throttle. System is full. Can do this on existing system that is thought to have air lock. Please...Please...Please be careful doing this method. Once hot it with burn you badly. 
Jaronius
I had a similar situation with the tensioner. I went to my plumbing tool box and grabbed an 18" pipe wrench. I let the wrench out quite a bit to reach but it worked great. Lots of leverage too.
ShawnCFarm
+Jaronius That will work as well
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