 See if we can't get the green hacks over there running and then wrap this day up. All right, so this is always the fun part when someone else wires it. So we're trying to figure out what's going on here. We've got a call alarm. Gotta look through the book. Nothing in this part, so it says look in the book, so we're looking there. And I don't know if the guy hooked up the wiring for this yet or not, but it's dead. Make up air and exhaust. There's two breakers. Let's see what we got now. The call means calibration or communications is what it was saying. Still have no display up there on top and it's still not doing jack over there. I need to go back up on the roof. I know I turned it on. Let's make sure we got power to this transformer because I have a feeling that that goes to this board. And this is obviously where communication starts at. Run. Nothing happens. Escape. I'm probably going to have to call the ghost busters. Finally figured out what was going on. Power's turned off because it said leave it off. That's because he's got this stuff all set up. So we're supposed to be able to start it up and make that all of a sudden crap disconnected, which really makes it difficult. All right, so we got rid of the fire alarm. This was not put together. It's a normally closed circuit, I believe, and it opens when it does its thing. So we just put a jumper in there because the fire, people have to do their job. The balancers have to do their thing. This thing, what a treat. So the sensor's right there. And I took it apart up there and checked the resistance on it. And I had about 1,000 ohms. I got to see if I can find a chart that tells me what the resistance, uh, quick ones is to temperature. But here's how you hooked up right. And I'm found in the book here that should be hooked underneath the terminals that it's hooked in. We're going to system through that right there. I've not done this particular controller, but we're getting into it here. In the spot, but that damn temperature is all over the place. Like I said, the first time I ever worked on, well, first time programming it. So when an intern told it only had one sensor, that sensor seemed to be right. I think that second sensor, since it thought there was two, when an intern told it only had one, would not reset on its own. So it kill powered, brought it back on. Immediately starts working like it should. Everything was fine. So I turned on the fans and took it to 30 hertz. So that's more noticeably normal. Let's go up and see if we get the gas running now. All the settings, fars, fan speeds, all that stuff, fire, all that's got to be done by the, you know, the people that are certified for that, but we just got to make sure it runs for them. We're in here. Just check the gas. It was obviously off. So we got it on, blooded at the union. You can smell it coming through. Because that was off, I think it may have locked out. I couldn't see anything blinking on my light there, which I still don't see anything doing anything there. I don't know if they got maybe something down there. You gotta turn on for the heat because you got that there. I wonder. So what I ended up doing was telling it to stop running and wanted to see if it would make a difference. So I jumped R to W1. The way this is going to work and all the other ones I've ever seen, basically down below, it tells it when this thing needs to run. You have the heating inlet air here. Anything, anytime it gets below 60 degrees or whatever it is I decide to set it at, it will allow the heat to run as long as the fans are running. The fans downstairs are told to stop. So it stopped this unit with me jumping it. It's going to have its call for heat here. I didn't see anything downstairs. You know, reading through the book real quick, it showed that, you know, you needed to run it to it. So we're going to do that because they're going to shut it down at nighttime. The controls down there is going to stop the heat and then as it gets warmer and the outdoor temperature comes up, it won't try to run. We even put it at 65. That might be the better spot for it. I've had people complain. You know, I've heard 50, 55. So we're going to leave it like that. And then this here is going to adjust our temperature of our discharge air, which usually I like to just try to make it break even with whatever the room temperature is. Let's go down and turn this fans on, see if this thing calls for heat now. Okay. So at least now we are calling. We have a low pressure switch that's open, which means we have to adjust our pressure differential. So we got to adjust our plates. I got to go grab my manometer and get this adjusted so that we have the 0.7 inches, I think is what they were asking for, between 0.6 and 0.7 for natural gas. Yeah, good. We can get to the baffle plates here. Taking a look at our meter, we're at 0.16. We need 0.6 to 0.7. Obviously, we got to close these plates down or increase air flow. So yeah, we're not going to increase air flow because we're at 42. We're at 30 down below. So we're obviously a little bit faster than the other and depending on how they size this thing. Yeah, we're going to go ahead and get this thing tuned in. And then we'll see what happens when those guys dink with that. It's off to us because we're going to cram in what kind of scheme of standard here. So let's get this thing opened up here. Well, it gives me a chance to trap my new Klein flip bit here. I got the one just for the impact only. I didn't get the handle because I already had another handle. You just flip these things around and they slide off the end. You got a magnetic chuck on the end and you got your three-eighths, eleven-thirty-second, seven-sixteenths, half-inch, quarter-inch, five-sixteenths, and the quarter-inch will actually hold little bits. So we've got that pulled out of there. Let's see if we can get in here. So there's our baffle plates. And it looks to me like we're going to need to change these ones. Wow, those are looser than a goose. Yeah, that's quite interesting. These are different than what I've seen in the past. Definitely weird. So I've got the gas turned off. That's shut. That one back here is open. You can see the nice fan. I think what we're going to do is we're going to turn it off for safety. Don't want to accidentally fall into that fan blade. It'd probably cause some problems. So we've got them close together as you can. So we increased it evenly like they're saying. About a finger and a half there and a finger and a half there. Let's see what our pressure drop is now. It's only slightly better at 0.2. Not real impressive. The bottom ones are differential. See that we need to speed this turkey up. I don't know if we can really move them together much more. So we're going to try to speed this thing up, which of course you can't just hit up and down. You got to enter a special sequence of some sort. Oh, let's do a little read in here. So we're going down our TFM. All right. So I got looking in here and there's dampers all in here all the way across and every single one of them were shut. You would think somebody would have left those open. So we're back a different day here and a little dampers right there. So I opened all of them up. I'm going to go back upstairs now up in the rough and see how bad it is now. Well, according to this we're 0.7. That's about where they wanted it at. 0.6 to 0.7. Don't see any blinky blanks. So who knows what's going on now. Now we go through here and check our pressure switches with our meter and see what else is going on. I turn it back to 43.33. So escape out of there, I think that's where we're sat. And we're running out of 4.49. So it did make a little bit of a difference. So the question is, do we put it back to where they had it at or do we just increase it until we get it where they wanted it at, which I'm kind of feeling like we're just going to increase it to where we get it at because the baffle plates seem to be about where they need to be at. Let's go to 47. I did check the meter on the pressure switches and they did show up fine there. They're 0.6 to 0.62. They want 0.6 to 0.7. Let's go over to maybe 49. Let's go to 48. Now zero it out because he's tend to drift. Keep them both in here. I'm really glad I got that gray crap all over. Zero. This was acting really dumb the other day. There we go. 0.6, 0.65, 0.7. I'm going to leave it there and see how it goes because this guy's from the balance in place. Probably going to screw with my stuff and it'll probably need to be adjusted anyway. All right, let's start narrowing it down and see where we're missing our voltage at, where it's not getting to. We're going to put this stuff back up. Okay, so we're making progress. Now most every system I've ever seen, especially some of these where they've been ordered for the job, usually if you're running 208, 230 volt, you run it for the higher voltage. Well, this one was wired for 208, so either they were told to do that or the factory screwed up. So I already corrected this transformer yesterday and set it up for 240 volt. And there's another transformer here. I had to correct that one. That one here powers the spark ignition module. This one here powers the damper, supply fan relay, and some miscellaneous is there. Then the other one controls, does the control panel from what I'm seeing here. Yeah. Then you have an isolation transformer for the max control there. And that one's 24 in, 24 out. So I'm thinking they're just isolating it for noise because I got a little higher voltage than what I thought, about 29 on it. But when you follow it back going into its 25, so it should be a one to one ratio you'd figure. But so you go to here, this is the primary, we've got 25 volts coming in. And then you come over here to the secondary. Come on, let go. Let go. And you follow that blue, it comes over to here. And you follow the yellow, which comes to here. And you got 29 volts. So you got 25 going in, 29 coming out. It's a little on the higher side of things. Now, if you go to the outgoing side to say this transformer here, you go to blue. That's this one right here. Go to the comments grounded. So you could go to there. You got 25. So that one's been corrected. That's probably the same one. I think this one here is feeding that one. And this one here is feeding the dampers and stuff. Because that's a, what is that thing? 75 VA. So that was our high voltage here. If I remember right, actually this might be the low voltage. Yeah, 247. So we've got 247 coming into it. That's why I came out of this and I followed down to R in common. And this is how I found out originally that we was a little high. So we're running 27 volts on that. So all our transformers are set right. This knew that there was an issue. I figured the green and red on was probably supposed to make orange. And what was it trying to tell me? It said something about voltage here. Solid orange, which was the green and red both on solid, both frequency standby. And it was telling me that it was a corn puff. So it's better now. We are regulating temperature. I've heard it kick up pretty high. You can kind of come over here and check the flames. I did go grab a room and ended up brushing off a pathway so I don't fall off the freaking rough, which is maybe kind of productive if I get in trouble. Maybe I'll get the calls done. So you go in there and can we see it? Not really. So we need to set up the low-fire, high-fire. Once we've got that, check our temperature rise across it. We'll be pretty much done with this one. So that's just got to go through and get refreshed on that, because I know. Got one setting inside here and one down there. I don't remember, so I know you got to yank a wire off, but got to look through the book real quick. Start up here. It says adjust the RPM via the adjustable motor sheaves if equipped, or VFD if equipped, and to achieve the proper pressure drop. Motor amp draw must not be exceeded the full load amps, which I'll have to double check that, make sure it's okay. We're going to go with the SH66A here. This thing is 0.3 accuracy, which is way more than what we need, but it's simple. So I've got my probe down there, give it a discharge here. Got a little clamp on there. Really good. Shut this thing up so it doesn't get sucked into the blower. Now I could stick one over here on the air intake. We can use the other one looks just like it, or we can use a shorty. That's close enough. Let's go ahead and get our maximum fire set up, which is good for differential, but we're maintaining the 30. So our actual discharge right now, I think I got it set for 70 and it's holding 68. So it seems like it's pretty pretty accurate. So let's go ahead and go for our differential. This newest version is nice and quick. My older one was not very quick and our temperature rise on this turd is 70 degrees. So let's throw it into maximum high fire and see where we come in at. Send it to high fire by removing wire from terminal three on the max control. It took off number three and everything normal. Let's see what kind of rise we get. Oh, way too much. We are way too high. All right. So we need to fix that. Let's go ahead and hook that back up and see if we can figure out where we got to adjust that at. Look at that. They're going to adjust it like a regular old gas valve. Well, that's the first time I've ever seen that done. Whatever. So let's get in there and adjust it. At least I got it capped towards the front. Take this here out. Let's throw up to the maximum. 60, 70, it's going too high. So let's back it out a little bit more. A little too high to this 70, right? Yep, 70. Coming back down. There we go. Coming back down slowly, slowly. Let's speed this up a little bit. Turn off that main. Speed her up. Pulling that good old, what do we got air coming in? Coming in at 28 degrees. We set it 68-ish. Might give it a little squishy squish more to get it back to that perfect zone. I mean, this thing is almost completely backed out. We'll give it a little quarter turn there, see if that brings it up. Yeah, see, just a quarter turn, man. It's just close enough for government work. I'm assuming, you know, we have a 70 or we have a zero degree day, you got a 70-degree rising, 70-degree out of it. There we go. That's pretty good. That's at max fire. Let's see what our discharge is at maximum fire on this kind of a day. It's 97 coming out, which we'd never want discharged that high in a kitchen. So as you can see, that kind of sets us up pretty good. This thing's just kuma matata, you know what I mean? So not bad. All we got to do is tweak some of our low settings here. So let's make sure it can maintain the way it needs to here. Just back on that one there. Get that screwed back down so we can maintain our 70 degree or 65 degree discharge, which I think that's where I got it at. Nope, looks like it. We got the little dip switch here as far as the delay. Got that set. It's got 10 second delay, so fire is a low fire first. Let's get that back on there, make sure it doesn't affect none. Just like any other thing. So back to seat this turkey. There we go. And now we'll pull this valve fire off here and get ourselves a little fine ribbon across, which the reason why you got to do that is so that when you're not mild temperature stuff, it's able to not add too much heat, but yet stay, keep the burners running without tripping out the main burner there. So like right now, let's see what kind of, see right now you got 21 degree rise so far. So let's check that. You got to look through the little burner hole for that, which this is usually our place here, but you can't see it because of the way that burner or the blower is. So they put this one right here on the side, which is kind of neat. But like I said, this isn't a real biggin. So let's see where we're at. It's hard to see. Hold on a second. I did another video, which I can put that in a little link description things. We're going to turn that down to like, you know, lower than the temperature outside, kick it back on, set it back to about 65 ish. Just going to go through that purge. We're going to make sure that it can fire off with that low fire setting. That's one of the last things you want to do there. Other than the very final thing is making sure that our flame rectification is good when it's just the pilot only. What we'll do on the pilot only is we'll shut this valve off and it'll be just pilot only. We'll make sure that we got enough to hold that. And then that'll be pretty much the end of our setup for right now. They've got a maximum limits setting there, manual reset. But then we got to check, oh yeah, we got to check our blower too. See where our blower is at, which this looks like it is it right here. Checking after all that real quick. Our supply motor, maximum amps is nine. We're pulling 5.4, so we are skippy-dippy on that. You could also probably went up here to this and hit the up button. 5.6, 5.4. Not bad, huh? So we're running about 900 or 191 volts set up per amperage, so 48.5. So I believe we brought the burner back on because we are powered there. Let's go take a look over here again, make sure it came on. Put the old cup to the hand and it looks like it's fine there. So we're checking the back ramps. They wanted one. So we're checking it there. I've opened it up. It went all the way one direction to the other. I can't get it to the full one they want. It's 28 degrees with a super low wind chill. Good enough for now. For right now though, everything's working great and I'm going to go from there. Got everything put away, turned the fans off, heat shot off, everything's good to go there. The fire people have to come and do their wiring in here. I'm going to just go ahead and leave that because the balancing people will be here tomorrow so they can do their thing and I'll let them remove that. It dries and everything's shut down like it's supposed to. So everything's working as it should. Let's go back over here. Check our coolers and stuff. So our cooler's holding 36 degrees, which is perfect. And our freezer is holding in there at negative eight. Wow, I'm going to have to hurry to store meat in here. I got the meat. The meat is good to go. So, yep. Terrific. This goes down to its little low speed thing while it's hanging around. A little opposite of what some of the other things were. Not quite what I'm reading over there, but whatever. Coil's not frozen up, which is turned horrific. Let's see if we've got any frost built up on this coil here. Not really. Nothing to be quite acceptable. It's holding pretty good there. Beautiful. That's beautiful. Look at that. It's happy. Like these. These don't seem like bad little units. That's not bad at all. Perhaps all that up. Let's go ahead and turn that off. And that. And that. And that way nothing bad happens. All right, guys. If you enjoyed the video and you want to see more like it, if you would, please hit that thumbs up button. Don't forget to subscribe. Check out the Instagram and Facebook page. And until next time, guys, we will catch you on the next one. Later.