 All right you guys, we are on our last day of this sew along. We have come such a long way. We have gone through the little free workbook that I created just for this sew along. We have done most of this stuff. We just have one little thing to check off here. Today we're going to be going through the weekend checklist which is the longest of all the checklist and that's because sewing the sleeve on this pattern is super labor intensive. Slays are hard anyways and then this one has the zipper and then you have to attach it. There's some hand stitching, there's a lining that you're contending with, so there's a lot going on with the sleeve but we're going to tackle this slowly but diligently and by the end of the weekend you guys will have finished your moto jackets. So without further ado let's head to the work table, get started on this sleeve, check the chapters if you're coming back and forth on this video so you can find out where you left off because it's kind of like a sew at your own pace weekend. All right so let's knock out these sleeves. What do you say? Our first step is going to be to address these little little corners here. We're going to reinforce them which we did also in the will pocket. It's a very similar situation so you are just going to go stitch around this right angle here pivoting at the small dot that you made. The small dots are always at the seam line and for this pattern this seam here is at our 5 eighth seam line but this seam here is at a quarter inch and then like I said go to your machine a regular stitch length stitch around that corner and then while you are there we are also going to go ahead and stitch this long seam here and you are putting one of 24 and one of 23 to go. So you do each of these in a single layer right and you just come down that quarter inch seam allowance for a few inches and then pivot at the small dot and then repeat for the other three pieces. Okay and then right sides together one of the skinny ones gets combined with one of the fat ones and that seam allowance stops right in line with the cut edge of the little notched out part. All right and while we're over here we are going to go ahead and ping up our machine to a ease stitch and then we're going to ease stitch all around this cap starting at the little dots and I like to do this with all my sleeves at a what would it be seven eighths and then three eighths so that all of the easing is done right at the seam line that five eighths inch all through those two seam lines is eased in nice and flat. If you do it at the seam line you run the risk of getting some puckers so I just like to go an eighth of an inch beyond the seam line and an eighth of an inch within the seam line. Okay and now that we're back at our table we also need to clip through um our seam allowance to those um to that little small dot clipping two but not through our stitching the little stay stitching that we did clip two but not through that so now you have a little bit of a diagonal cut there and now I've laid this out exactly how they have it on the illustration to kind of help us all make sure we get this zipper done right the first time. We are going to place the closed zipper face down so this stop here goes all the way up in here to our small circle. Mine is a little bit long as you can see so I'm going to zip this back to past the seam line or the hem line which our hem line for this jacket is one and a half inches at the sleeve so right here sort of at this little blue line so I'm just going to make sure that when I put my zipper stop back here that my zipper pull is beyond that hem line because once we come down here we're going to stitch stitch all the way like this and then we turn this back right at the hem line like this so we're going to get a beautiful finish so I want to point out this is upside down the zipper stop is toward the sleeve cap and the zipper opening is toward the hem that way when we have our zipper our sleeves on we go like this and we unzip this way and zip it closed this way. Okay so we need to stitch at basically at a three or I'm sorry we place the zipper teeth at three eighths inch from this raw edge that's the one eighth plus quarter inch seam allowance so we have our zipper teeth just barely extending beyond the seam line and then we're going to stitch all along here with the zipper foot at the quarter inch seam allowance coming down at the hem line once you get there turn this back like at a quarter of an inch or I'm sorry at a what is it called 45 degree angle like so and then stop your stitching there okay so we have everything in its right place the zipper stop is here we have turned back the zipper tape at the one and a half inch seam line and we have stitched at a quarter of an inch now they want us to turn this back oh that's going to be so freaking cute okay I'm getting excited this is all turned back like so okay now they want us to turn this under a quarter of an inch and then place that on the zipper like so then pull this back and this is how it should go on and stitching between the hem line and the zipper stop all right I'm going to do one extra step that I didn't see in the instructions maybe I missed it but um similar to how we did with our welt pocket when we stitched across the little triangles I have pulled out the seam allowances I have pulled out that little what would be like a trapezoid I get what's the thing where it's like a that shape pulled that out as well as well as a zipper tape beyond the stop and I'm just going to stitch across here and that is going to give us at the top of our zipper that nice clean finish okay so now we should have yeah a really pretty edge going across the top beyond the zipper stop got all these zipper terms and so when we unzip it stops at the stop and looks really pretty right super cool all right so here's what we've got obviously take this to your what's it called iron I'm having a hard time with words today and you can press all this nice and flat but there we have our sleeve zipper how cute is she gonna try and make sure to get some of these puckers out but for the most part looks pretty good yeah okay cool and then we're going to move on to the lining okay so everything that we've just done for the outer sleeve we're repeating for the lining so we are stitching here pivoting at the small dot we are sewing these right sides together all along this seam line and then once we have that we are going to add our iron turn we're going to clip to that uh dot then turn back the quarter inch seam allowance here and press it toward the inside of our lining pieces okay so once you've got your lining sewn and pressed you get this cute little window through here like so we are going to be attaching the lining to the sleeve at the hemline it's going to be a beautiful hem but that means we're going to be hand stitching the sleeve cap so just prepare yourself for more hand stitching before we go on to step 68 I like to go ahead and pre-press my hems I think it just gives such a better crisp line obviously it's more accurate so I will come through here and just like we did for the jacket hem if this hem is one and a half inches we are going to mark at three inches and then press up to that line all the way along here same for here okay so we've got our little crease there looks great we're going to open it back out flat we are going to place these right sides together we are going to stitch this at half an inch seam line obviously stopping and starting at this little opening and then press that where the seam allowances are going toward the lining and then we open this whole thing out and that is how we are going to stitch our um underarm seams together so let me show you all of that step by step we do want you to stitch these guys open so the seam allowance for the zipper stitch that flat okay so now we have this situation right don't unpress the pressing that you've already done for your hemline it's going to go end up going like this you can repress this at this point if you want but the goal here is to take these two underarm seams with this and this entire length we are stitching okay so here's what we have at this point everything up top should be aligning perfectly your notches everything should be the same shape otherwise you did something wrong down here gorgeous right isn't she so cute um and then this not so pretty but we're going to make it pretty so our next step is to slip stitch this little window around our zipper and it's probably going to be best to unzip it so you have two completely open situations and then this would get tucked into the so i'm going to clip uh probably about i don't know an inch half an inch beyond the end there because all of this gets tucked in and turned into the hem like so and we're just going to go in and we are going to slip stitch this down all the way through this little window um they are having us top stitch it as well and then once you have that done they want you again you can do the top stitching through here if you want but no matter if you're doing that or not they are having you stitch down your hem so we're stitching one inch from the raw edge all the way around here and then this portion of our sleeve will be done all right and then this is what it will end up looking like unzipped super cute zipped also cute and this dangles down okay so we've got our sleeve the main part of our jacket sleeve ease stitch through the cap now we need to do the lining separately because these things are going to get attached to the jacket separately which is a little bit annoying but we really pretty when we're done okay so for the lining only pull this all the way out they should be completely separate up top pull this out do the same ease stitching um from notch to notch that you did for the sleeve cap and then also stay stitched through this little bottom edge from the single notch to the double notch all right now we have our gorgeous jackets and our gorgeous sleeves we are going to be attaching the outer part of the sleeve keeping the lining totally free if you want you can even just tuck this in really well so I like to do jacket wrong side out and sleeve right side out and there is a right and wrong way to do this similar to um the side panels remember how there were like double notches and single notches same thing for sleeves a double notch on this side so this side of the sleeve is the back so it goes in like this where this side of the sleeve goes to the back and this side of the sleeve goes to the front stick her in like so now we do not have a side seam okay so the underarm seam gets matched up with that square that is a part of the side panel then as you come around you should have notches and dots that match up all the way around so I like to start through here pin matching all of the symbols until the small dot okay once I get to the small dot on the back I'll turn it around and match all the symbols up to the small dot on the front I will find the top of the sleeve which is a big dot which is right there and I will pin her and now we can really see what we're working with in terms of easing so we've got to ease in all this and all of this making sure to keep that notch in line with the shoulder seam okay so pull up your ease stitches just grab onto them and as you pull them you can see little gathers are forming in this sleeve cap now just like when we were doing our was it the lining and the collar and all of that we don't care how wrinkly this is at the raw edge all we care is what's happening between those two ease stitch lines okay so just make sure it's nice and flat between those two things you can use as many pins as you want the more time you take here at this point before you get to your machine the more likely you're going to have success at the machine and not have any puckers that you have to restitch okay moment of truth to see how we did pull your sleeve out say a prayer if you're into that sort of thing and then we are going to check out our work oh she's so pretty okay i did really good oh that's just like i need to go play the lottery today okay so now that that is in you can pull out your basting stitches from your jacket and now it's time to work on the lining okay so pull your lining up and over your sleeve cap like so we're going to go over to our iron we are going to press under the lining five eighths of an inch all the way around and then it just gets slip stitched matching up the seam line of the outer sleeve with the slip stitching that you're doing so it gets pulled up and over all of the notches and markings and everything still get matched up so as you're slip stitching all the way around you should be matching those up as well all right so put on a good movie once you get this done your jacket is done your jacket is done once you get all of this slip stitching and hand sewing done obviously repeat for the other sleeve you guys this is it we have we've made it to the end I know I know I want to show you just to give you a little bit of motivation maybe I mean I mean she's freaking cute well I hope you feel like a real baddie because you are you sewed a moto jacket what is cooler than that um I hope you're in love with yours I am in love with mine I am teasing you a little bit I'm not gonna show you my finished jacket until I do the full pattern review like I normally do big reveal coming on Monday in the meantime you're gonna spend this weekend either doing the weekend checklist or finishing up on any other days that you got behind on and don't forget to check your daily checklist where we are on the very last day um and doing lots of this lots of celebrating so I am so happy that you chose to participate um in this so along with me hopefully you found it to be informative educational fun exciting all of that great kind of stuff and then of course at the end of all of this you really love your jacket so like I said I'll be back Monday with a full reveal of my jacket and a pattern review so come back to see that I am very proud of you and I hope you're proud of yourself okay I'll see you soon bye