 Alright guys, so super gross day in New Hope, but I did put together a vlog for you, perfect day to be inside cutting hair and not outside doing this. So vlog is here, it's a longer haircut, it was inspired by an old haircut from ten years ago that I don't really remember the exact steps on how to do it, but what I love is the concept of it. So me and Brian were talking about it earlier, basically it's taking a section out, the entire crown out, concaving everything underneath and then going through and layering the top, which creates a really cool kind of off the face look, which I'll show you guys here. So this is our finished result, you can see all the really cool layers that work throughout the haircut because it's concave layering, it works really well with thicker hair or medium hair. If you have somebody with fine hair just make sure that you don't do concave layering, just do more standard layers and you'll be fine, you don't have to worry about, it'll actually stack up pretty nice in the haircut that way. So just making minor adjustments, I think that's what we should think about moving forward is these haircuts are not exactly what you're going to do every time you have a guest in the salon, it's a thought process, a technique and you need to tweak that technique with every guest in your chair. So let me know how you do that, let me know in the comments below what guest you're excited to do this on and that's pretty much it. So let's get started with our step by step. Here we go. All right guys, so the sectioning for this cut is actually pretty simple. So we're going to take a center parting down center back and that allows me to take out the crown. So that's the only section we're going to have in this haircut is a circle crown section. Now the diameter of that circle is going to be based on the density of the hair. So just make sure you understand your guest's density if they have high density of hair, if they have a lot of hair, then you're going to take out a bigger circle and then if they have finer hair, you're going to take out a little bit smaller circle. Just really pay attention to how much hair you actually put into that circle and know that that's going to veil over the top of the haircut. So really how much hair do you want to veil over? Now we're going to start the haircut. This haircut is very, very repetitive in the motion of it. Now the difficulty lies in the fact that you have to stay consistent because we're moving around the round of the head. It's always easier to work with a stationary guide and in this case we're working with a traveling guide. So I know again it's a little bit harder to see but you can see in each kind of diagram that we have throughout the haircut, I'm just working my way around the head cutting concave layers all the way around the cut. So just working my way through. Now what happens as I'm working my way now I'm getting towards the ear and I'm working my way up the temple area to the kind of forehead area, I guess you would call that the front of the head. As I'm working up there, the density of the hair changes because the hair is moving up the, the hairline is moving up the head. So what that's going to start to do, you can see it starts to build a face frame into the haircut without me actually really changing anything that I'm doing. So I move from mostly concave in the back but because I'm following the head shape and I'm working my way around, what that's doing is by the time I get to the front of the head I'm actually cutting more 90 degree layers instead of a concave, you know, extreme weight removal kind of layer. That was the worst technical, we're just going to go with it though. So I'm working through, now I'm working the opposite side but my body position is staying on the same side. So I want to work my way around the head and just keep my combing going towards the guide. So we've talked about this in a lot of past videos. If this is your first video with me then just understand that you always want to comb that new hair towards the guideline. So now I'm pushing the hair away from me because my guide is behind that hair. So just working my way around the head shape and cutting the concave layer. I'm taking it in about two sections towards the back because of the amount of hair in that section and just working my way around. So this is where, so we're getting around to the ear area. So the density starts to get a little bit less and the hair is working its way up towards the ear. So as I cut it, it's going to get shorter. This is kind of like if you're cutting the hair shorter and you get to the ear and you end up rounding it off, you get a hole. This is a hole but we're creating it on purpose. So as I work my way up the head, it's actually starting to create a face frame, create layering for me. So it works really well. All right, cutting that last little bit. Just working my way through, not taking too much hair. Notice that I'm taking about maybe an inch total. So three quarters of that inch is my guide and then about a fourth of an inch is the actual new hair that I'm cutting. Because you don't want to take too much new hair, you'll lose your guide. And I think that that's a question that's come up quite a bit. Like how do you not lose your guide in a haircut? It's just making sure that you don't get rushed and you take mostly guide and then a little bit of new hair at a time. So working through and this is cool because this haircut's great for any side parting that they want to do. So we're basically cutting it like it's a center parting. So if they want to flip it to one side, it might be a little bit heavy. But the great thing about this cut is very versatile in that way. They can wear their hair however they want to. All right, and there is that's what the layers look like wet. We still have that crown section in there, so we're going to cut that next. But you can see how the layers kind of work through how it starts off shoulder in the front, gets a little bit longer in the back. Pretty cool cut. We're going to switch to our Donald Scott carving comb. This is such a cool tool and I like to throw it in there, especially on long hair when I'm trying to lighten up some layers. So I'm going to take that crown section, take horizontal sections across it. And I'm going to work some parts with the 50% carve. So I'm over directing it forward. I'm taking a little bit of that bang area as my guideline. So if I see some hair hanging over, I use the 100% carve to take out the whole line just like that. And then sometimes I go in if it seems to match up and then I lighten it up with the 50% carve, which just takes out 50% of the hair. So it gives that really cool layered effect on the top. You could do it with scissors as well. What I would do is just bring it towards me and point cut into it. But the carving comb is cool. It's $34 and we do have it on Freestyle on Education. So if you don't have one, it's a cool tool to have in your tool kit. So now we're going through blow drying using the Ergo paddle brush and the Ergo blow dryer. I love using these two tools. Right now I have Ergo blow dryer on full blast, which a couple of people have asked me if we have those back in stock and we do so they are on the site. I use it on full blast for the power dry part. Now I like to get the hair about 80% dry, let's say 80 to maybe even 90% dry before I start round brushing. So this is the 43 Ergo brush. What I'm doing is I'm going through there with half airflow. So I turned down the airflow because the more airflow you have, the more it stretches out that cuticle. And that's why you don't get the wave that you're looking for. Some of these blow dryers have so much power. I mean, this blow dryer blow dries the hair really fast. It's super powerful, but you don't want to always have it on full blast. So it's kind of like no one has good hair in a hurricane. This would be the case here. So just going through, I'm working the round of the head, taking those diagonal forward sections and then just working backwards and blow drying the hair off of the face. That's what's going to, that's what looks really good on this haircut. We cut the hair to flow off of the face because we followed the round of the head. When you follow the round of the head, it allows that hair to softly fall around the round of the head. That's how it, it's kind of how it works. So just working my way through round brushing off the face, letting it cool off and then releasing the hair off of there. The only section I round brush really towards the face is the very last point right around the bang area because I want to give a little extra volume. So just round brushing it forward gives it extra volume when it kicks back. So right there I was showing you that there's that disconnect. So this is actually a disconnected haircut because we cut the concave layers underneath and then overdirect the entire crown forward. So it does give you a little bit of extra length in the back. You could always connect that if you want to, but that's what I think separates this haircut and gives it the shape that you're going to see once we're done round brushing it. So a couple more sections still working off of the face. You can see the Ergo round brush is cool because I don't give it enough credit. I don't do a lot of round brushing in the videos. But when I do, it's the only round brush that we use. But the barrel of the round brush is so long, it just allows you to get so much work done and it's a really comfortable brush in your hand. So you can see how those layers flow through there, how much volume is in it. And what I want you to see is this shape. You can see where the weight sits. It sits around the occipital bone and that's all because of the concave. So it takes out that weight a little bit underneath and then pushes the weight more towards the top. That is my personal preference. I think it makes it look modern. What do you guys think? Let me know below. All right, guys, can you use this haircut in the salon? Let me know in the comments below how you're going to use it, who you're going to use it on. Also, we have a big sale on freesaloneducation.com right now. So go check that out. Remember freesaloneducation.com. Get some cool tools and check out everything that we have to offer video-wise on there. Thank you guys so much for watching. Share this with your friends and we'll see you on the next one. Thanks.