 In this video, I'm going to show you how I made my miter saw station, which includes a lot of cool features like my drill press, a place for my trash, some storage, storage, storage, storage, storage, storage, storage, storage. And oh yeah, a place for my miter saw, dust hood, and a cool stop block system. There's a big project and there's lots to do, so let's get started. This project's going to start on the table saw. I've got a photo of my plans on the tablet, so I know all the dimensions I need to cut. And this whole thing is cut out of three-quarter inch plywood and I got a stack of it over here. So let's get cutting. Well these first three pieces are going to be the doors that go on the front of the miter saw station and they're just rectangles and essentially every single part in this miter saw station is just a rectangle cut out of plywood. So that's three down and I think there's 30 some more to go. I got all 30 some pieces cut off the table saw, so essentially at this point I've got all the components to put together in the miter saw station and I could go ahead and start assembling them. However, I'm going to go the extra fancy route and I'm going to cover up all the exposed edges with solid wood and that's going to give it a nice appearance and it's also going to help protect the edges of that plywood a little bit. So I've got a piece of solid birch here and I'm going to go ahead and cut a whole bunch of quarter inch strips off of there and glue them on most of these edges. Here's how I'm going about putting on the edge banding. I've got my three-quarter inch sheet here which conveniently fits right in the slot on the table saw. And first thing I'm going to do is just quick deburr the edges and then a bead of glue but not too much so we don't have a big squeeze-out mess just enough to hold on the edge banding. Take one of my strips and place it on here, spread the glue out a little bit, a couple of edge clamps just to hold it in place till I can get some nails in it. And then I got one inch 18 gauge brad nails in this gun and I'm just going to shoot several of them to hold this in place. Take the clamps off which by the way spring clamp, bicycle inner tube, edge clamp. That's it, on to the next. All the pieces that needed edge banding now have those glued and nailed on and I also sanded everything to 120 grit. These pieces also happen to be all the ones that I want to put polyurethane on and I'm going to go ahead and do that next before assembling because it's a lot easier to paint these now than when it's all put together. Well I took the rest of the day but all the side panels, all of the three doors and a couple of the other pieces now have two coats of water-based polyurethane on them and they look pretty good. I also added some wooden feet to all of the side panels and that's going to help elevate them up off the floor a little bit and I can also use them to shim and level the whole carcass. Now we can start assembling. I've got these put together just enough so that they'll stand up and now what I want to do is go and level all of the feet. So I'm going to start on this and because I know this is the high spot on the floor and using the level and I cut a bunch of these plywood wedges, I'm just going to go along and shim up each of these until they're all level with each other. Well I got everything shimmed so it's nice and level front to back and along the length of it. However I definitely underestimated how uneven the floor is because with no shims under that foot there I need more than an inch worth of shims in this back right corner so it's not going to work to just shave off the high spots and reduce the feet thickness because I could remove that foot completely and still need shims in the back here so instead what I'm going to do is just measure each one of these stacks of shims and cut a piece of wood just for that spot and glue it under there so it'll be a permanent shim that way. I like using these deck screws because they're coated and they blend in really nicely with the wood. A little more expensive but they're really nice to work with. Okay don't drop it. Don't drop it. One of the things I want to do to help save space with this biner saw station is to put my drill press in it and that gets it off of that workbench over there and puts it over here. Now that I have it over here it's a little too high. I liked the height that it was on that table over there. The thought for putting it up this high though was so that the table could still drop down pretty much as far as it used to go. However thinking about it I don't think I've really ever lowered the table more than maybe halfway. I've just never had to drill anything that that's that tall so I think I'm going to go ahead and lower this table to the same height that it was over there. The good thing is I instead of making this table top portion of the miter saw station one piece of plywood I've broken into two pieces and the thought there was that if I ever need to remove the drill press if I don't like it here or if I need to drop the table more then I can just unscrew this portion of the table and remove it and then be able to use the whole drill press. My new miter saw hood has been working great but I want to make one upgrade to it. Up to now I've been using a shop vac and I've been hooking it up with a two inch abs pipe but I recently got a full-size dust collector that runs on four inch pipe so I want to make the holes in here bigger from two inch to four inch so I can use this piping to plummet into the dust collector. Now to cut that out to a bigger hole most people would use a jigsaw but a little known trick all you really need is the right size hole saw and a good whack. This four inch pipe will provide suction to the downdraft portion of the dust hood but to connect the holes off the back of the miter saw I 3d printed this adapter which has a four and a half inch diameter here so that this will mate up to the outside of that that pipe and then this side has the same connector as a shop vac hose so I'll be able to connect that right to that shop vac hose so let's go ahead and cut a hole in here and attach this adapter in order to keep the dust collector from being starved the surface area of all of these holes plus the surface area of that hole needs to equal the surface area of the four inch pipe and I just did the math real quick and I need to add 45 more holes to this downdraft table in order for it to be equal. Before I finish the work surfaces here I'm going to go ahead and install the upper cabinets and I'm lucky enough to have some pre-made ones that I salvaged from a remodel that we did in our office and so these three cabinets are going to go on either side of the miter saw and then I've got one for the top and I already pre-made a couple of blocks that they will set on so that they'll be up off of the work surface a little bit so I'll go ahead and throw those up. I cut the corner out of this cabinet because of the dust collection pipe so that it can run through and then I just screwed on three blocks of wood here so that I can temporarily put this in place and those blocks will hold it there and I can screw it in from the sides and then I'll take the blocks off. With the upper cabinets installed now I'm going to go ahead and finish the work surfaces up here. I want something a little more hard wearing than just the plywood and I've had good luck in the past using this eighth inch hardboard material and a couple reasons I like that is because of its obviously it's nice and hard and it wears really well but it can also be flipped over when one side wears out and then replaced completely pretty easily and it's pretty cheap so I've gone ahead already and made up a couple sub-assemblies and these are just going to get screwed right to the top here and that'll make up the work surfaces and let me show you a couple of details about these. The construction of these two pieces is pretty simple it's just a half inch plywood underneath and then the same solid edge banding that I've been using everywhere else on the sides but I left it a little tall so that when I put the eighth inch hardboard on I used a flush trim bit in the router to make the solid edging the same plane as the hardboard and that helps to capture the hardboard so it can't move around but it makes it pretty easy to just pop it out flip it around or to replace it all together down the road and the reason I have two pieces here instead of one solid one is this gap in here is essentially a dado that I'm going to use to have a stop block ride back and forth in so the stop block will grip onto this piece and slide back and forth and then on the back piece here you can see the solid edge banding is quite a bit wider and that's there because I made a small recess cut here and that's going to be for an adhesive backed tape measure to stick on there so when I use in the stop block you can just use the tape measure right on the work surface looks good time for drawers and doors down below to mount the three doors down below I'm just going to be using these basic hinges and they install into a hole like this and then there's two screws that go in to attach to the hinge so I get to use the drill press in its new location to drill a bunch of these holes when I was drilling the holes for the hinges I also put a big hole right here and this is going to act as my handle pole essentially so instead of having a handle that sticks proud of the surface which I would inevitably run into in this small area I wanted something that was nice and flush so I'm just going to go with a hole but to dress it up a little bit I 3D printed this little decorative cover and it installs through through the hole and it's threaded so the two pieces thread from either side and finished off the handle pull quite nicely added a small scrap of plywood here to act as a stop and now the door is shut nicely these large cabinets down below with doors are going to be great for storing stuff on wheels like this cyclone that I made for the drawers I've already got these ones made I didn't record any of this because it's really just more of the same cutting rectangles and gluing them together it's pretty basic construction there's just a hoop of plywood that I screwed and glued together and then the bottom is just glued right to that hoop there's no fancy joinery it's all butt joints and glue and I reinforced all of the edges with screws to help with the the load transfer so they'll hold up a little bit better and I already went ahead and pre-finished the insides with two coats of water-based polyurethane so they're ready to go in the station I went ahead and finished the drawer fronts off-camera by adding more solid edge banding and then putting on two coats of water-based polyurethane just like all the other parts on the miter saw station and so now I'm ready to do the final assembly here and for the drawer pulls I designed a pull similar to the ones I used on the cabinets and 3d printed it but instead of it being a hole just all the way through the door these ones are a little bit different where the back is fully enclosed and the front has a little lip on it so that you could pull with a couple fingers but they still just simply screw together and install in a hole that cut with this hole saw and with the back being recessed the back of the drawer pulls it's nice and flush so that the drawer front will go on to the drawers easily since these just install in a hole there's nothing to keep them from rotating so I'm just going to apply a little bit of silicone sealant and that'll provide enough grip to keep these from spinning over time it's done it's finally done time to cut some wood and test it out oh one last cool thing I made this miter saw stop block and it rides back and forth in the track on the tabletop surface here and it just clamps in place with a star knob and then there's also an extension piece that can go towards the saw even a little closer and that'll help me cut small parts I made a separate video just on this because I thought it was kind of interesting so I'll leave a link to the video in the description so you can check that out now let's cut something I just need to temporarily hook up the dust collection I don't have my piping run yet so I'll just have to do this for now well I'm really happy to have this miter saw station done not only does it add a lot of functionality to the miter saw itself but this is now basically my one-stop shop for all of my tools and my supplies almost everything's going to fit in this miter saw station which is going to make having a home for all those tools really nice if you want to know more info about the dust hood itself or any of the other things that I've worked on in this video I'll have links down in the description so check those things out other than that thanks for watching see you in the next project