 Hello, everyone. My name is Milan and I'm with the National Trust Hope Crew, which is a trades training program that stands for hands-on preservation experience. Today, we're bringing you a video that's giving you a high-level overview of a preservation trade skill, which is historic window maintenance and re-glazing. In this video, you'll be seeing Ariana Macau, who was a trades expert onsite at the Odd Fellows Building in Astoria, Oregon, where we did a Hope Crew training on window restoration in this historic building. Ariana led a majority women crew in teaching this skill, and it was a project in collaboration with the Wear Women Made History campaign. While onsite, she also stepped aside to record this video and show a little bit about this trade. You'll see Ariana in Astoria, Oregon, showcasing the skill, and then she'll also pop back into her Oakland-based studio to show some more up-close shots. If you're interested to learn more about Hope Crew, Wear Women Made History campaign, or Zilani Glass Conservation, all that information can be found below. Thank you to our funders, Tawani Foundation, and Kinsman Foundation. You'll hear Ariana reference homeowners throughout this video, but in addition, this video is also intended for anyone who's interested in getting a high-level glimpse into this trade. We hope you'll explore more on our resource page to continue learning or find more formal training opportunities. And without further ado, let's get into this trade. Hi, I'm Ariana Macau. I'm the owner and principal conservator of Zilani Glass Conservation, and today I'm going to show you how to putty in an old window. But every window is different, so the first thing you need to do is document what you're doing and really assess your window. Even if you're in the same building, your windows may not always be the same. And if you're dealing with a historic building, it's more than likely that your paint has lead in it. So the first thing when you're documenting it is also assessing if your paint has lead in it. And then you take the precautionary measures for that. And when you're cleaning up, it's also a consideration just for the people who are around your window. So for any time you're working in a construction environment, even when it's on your home, the first thing you need to do is to be safe. So I've got my safety goggles on. I'm going to put on a mask, but first I'm going to talk through everything. And I also have gloves. The other thing is a lot of people think when they're starting to work on a piece, I'm only going to do this for 30 seconds, it doesn't matter. And especially around glass, that's an unknown piece of material and that could break, it could go into your eyes. There might be nails in here or hidden pins. Even the putty, if it's really hard, that could break off and go onto your arm or go into your eyes. I'm lucky, I have this frame removed already and so it's flat. But often you're going to be doing this whole action in a vertical, working on your house and you're looking up and you're really concentrating on removing pieces and you're not thinking about health and safety. So get that out of the way at the beginning, put on your safety gear, glasses, mask, gloves and then you're ready to go. So for this project I have different tools for different phases of the project. First for removing the putty, you need a hammer and a hack out knife. And then when we're going to be glazing the putty back in, I'll be using different putty knives. Some of them are bent, some of them are straight, and then they come in different sizes. The other thing that they come in is different hardnesses and it's really your preference as to what you like. This one's pretty hard, this one tends to bend a little bit more. The ones that bend are nice if you have tiny risks like me. So you don't have to push so hard to get the putty to go in. We're also going to be using this putty but you can get any off-the-shelf putty from your hardware store. That should be fine for working on your windows at home. We're in Oakland, California at the Zilani Studios where I'm going to show you a few things I couldn't show you at the Hope Project in Astoria. This is a small panel in a wooden sash, something you'd see typical in a home. This is the inside and you can see that it goes straight up to the panel. The first thing you need to do is remove the panel or the piece of glass from your sash. So I'm going to carefully turn this over and this is the side you're going to remove. Here you can see the exterior of the wooden sash and it's been set in the panel has with putty. The putty is here and you can see it's uneven and paint even goes on to the glass and the problem with this window was that it was starting to leak. When you're looking at the putty that you have to remove you don't know exactly where the glass or the lead ends and the wood begins unless you have a separation. So in this case I can see there's a line here between the wood and the putty and you want to start there. I'm not going to do it right now because it's a safety hazard unless I'm wearing my proper gear. So you have to make sure you know where your hack out knife is going and also the angle. If you go straight down you'll most likely go into the border. If you go a slight angle this way it'll be where the border and the wood interface and that's much better. It's a good idea to start at that edge you can feel where that is going down a little bit and then you also go in this way to remove it. So it's always better to start with tiny little bits to see how hard your putty is. This is pretty typical of what you'll see. It's relatively hard old putty on wood that is also relatively hard and forgiving. The ideal type of combination that you want is hard wood and soft putty but you hardly ever get that. You can always go back and take out a little bit more but you can't put in missing wood and this example piece is a wooden frame, a painted wooden frame from a church but it's a nice bite size piece that you could find in your home as well and currently the putty has been removed so you can see how the glass fits into the frame. So I'm going to take out some, roll it into a ball relatively quickly. We're going to assume all of this is cleared out. This is when your angled knife comes in good. You just sort of press it down. It doesn't have to be too neat but you want to make sure it covers all of your surface and doesn't roll like this. You should cover all the back of your rabbit, the excess back in your corner and make sure those corners especially if they're at the bottom are covered. Then you can do a run here. So it's really important to orient your glass and mark it if you're putting in lots of them or you're unsure of which way it goes in because even if you've got a rectangle or a square it's not perfectly rectangular or square in general and it may not fit and you don't want to limit manipulating your glass in and out and also if you have a good putty back bed it won't want to come out a lot and you'll have to redo your steps if you don't do that correctly. So then you just put a little gentle pressure around your whole glass and when you feel resistance then you're fine and there are different ways that you can anchor your glass in place. You can either use these triangles and you put them in flush. So you have your triangle parallel to your glass and you can see there's two little nubs here and those are the ones that go out and then this pointy part goes in and you just push it in until you can see through your glass to the other side that it's cleared the rabbit because you don't want to see it once you have it set in. Your putty is going to sit over it and I can see here there's a line from where the old putty was that I'm safe because it's inside of that line but if I was putting in a new piece of glass I wouldn't have that as a reference so I would look through to the other side. It would also be cleaner so I could see. So now we put all of the triangles all the way around. Another option is putting in nails at an angle but every time you're nailing you have the potential of hitting your glass with your hammer hitting the nail straight down into the glass which will cause a break. So if you're not doing this as a profession using the triangles is a little bit safer. So again I'm getting a little bit of this putty putting this along the edge. This step is not where you want to be frugal. This is your first line of defense against weathering and any kind of moisture that's going to go into your window. You can always take some off but it's harder to put more on so I've lined this along here. I'm taking my putty knife and putting it in at an angle. You don't want to do it like this too tight because there's not a good line of defense. Again here I'm working with an old piece of glass so I can see the line and I want to go up to that line or maybe a little bit over it. So here's the line from the old the old putty and I'm putting some putty here in the corner. If your putty is well mixed and it's a new batch you can take it directly from the container and apply it to your window. In some cases there'll be separation of the oils from the rest of the putty and you want to mix it up first so you have a nice even distribution of materials as you apply it and that's when you would do your snake. This is not good because when you paint it it won't look nice. It's also sort of lumpy and also it's not joined all together so that will fail faster and come off of your window frame. So in this case you get a nice angle. Remember you might even want to mark on your wood where that putty the old putty line was and then you just pull in a uniform manner along the whole way. And if you have excess start on the corner and pull out away so you keep your nice putty line and as it's human nature you might accidentally cut into your putty line like this. Don't worry about that just keep on taking off the rest and you can always I used hard uniform pressure going all the way down if you have to resolve that part that you left you can go over it again and add a little bit more but don't overwork it because you'll still get a line like this. So then you start in soft a little bit above then you get into the part where you filled it push a little bit harder and pull off a little bit and the question we get a lot is what happens when you get to your corner you want to have a nice miter joint and you always end up kind of mushy here so you see when I got to the bottom here instead of trying to go all the ways to end I pulled and then went up on my bevel and then I can start here on that same line and pull off that way and pull off this excess and you can sort of rework it again going the other angle and I'm using this corner as a reference so I don't have to invent what I'm doing. I'll show you a few things that happen if you don't push hard enough or if you push too hard if you push unevenly so I'm pushing hard and then I'm pushing light and then hard and light you're going to get this with your putty you can either start again or just pull up and then remember to use uniform pressure and you can resolve it that way and then if you push too lightly you just get all these tide marks and it's really really uneven and there's no way to cut off your nice line or people try to resolve it and they you know it looks like this just slowing in control is the best way to do your bevel you can see when it oozes out here that you just cut away if you see something like this if you're just repairing putty on a window that you didn't take the glass out and you didn't take out the other sides there's a little bit of space here and what I see is uneven putty and also there's missing putty so you would take out anything that is loose add a little bit more to where that is and then you don't want anything rough so you can still sort of clean it up a little bit you don't want to gouge like this to clean it up because that's a place where water can sit even if it's in the inside of your window you always want to have a flush amount so it's not visible but it's sealed and if you you are working with someone on the outside and they see that you can push in a little bit more this is ideal if you can do it teamwork wise and then just run your knife along there and this putty takes over 24 hours to set so you have a lot of time to work with it and we're also in an ideal temperature so it's not too hot and not too humid if you're dealing with something that's too hot or too humid you can be the best glazer and it's not going to work because it just gets really sticky and and easy and it'll go everywhere you have putty all over your tools on your gloves and all over the glass just wait there's no way to resolve that at that time after you have this all the way around you wait and see how long the manufacturer says to let the putty set and when it's completely set or at least they say it has a skin which means the top few layers of it are set and it won't move around then you can paint it with either a latex or oil paint the last thing you can do is take this is a dry cloth and clean off a little bit and go in line with how you did your your bevel the other thing is you can wait overnight wait for it to have that skin which is a protective layer and then you can really get into your your window cleaning because the last thing you want to do is after you spend all this time putting in a nice bevel is to clean it with your rag and then your rag makes an imprint onto your putty bevel and you have to start all over again so never leave putty on the ground don't leave putty on a sill or your tools or dust because even if you're thinking about it other people may not know you've done it and then if there's water that comes down from rain that is migrating all of your dirt onto the ground onto other people or if it's windy all those tiny little chips are going to go into the air and maybe hit people who are walking by i'm ariana mcow of zilani glass conservation if you have any other questions feel free to reach out to zilani that's silent n-z-i-l-a-n-i dot com and i'm open and ready for your questions thanks