 Kamusta sa inyong lahat? Ito po sila modelist at tulipo kayo sa aking channel. Welcome back to my vlog where we continue our Filipiniana series by delving into one of our national costumes, the Barat Saya, also known as the Trahedemistiza in Spanish. The Barat Saya is the national dress of the Philippines, which combines elements from pre-colonial native Filipino and Spanish clothing or garment styles. The name Barat Saya literally means shirt and skirt and is a traditional outfit worn by Filipino women. In addition to the turno, which we covered in my previous tutorial, the Barat Saya has another popular variant, which is known as the Trahedemistiza or Maria Clarigal. In this tutorial, I will demonstrate how to create the Baro or Kamusa and the Curchif or Panuelo in Spanish, which are essential parts of the Barat Saya outfit. So let's get this started. The Baro or Kamusa, which is the top part of the Barat Saya outfit, is designed to be poxy in shape. This style is functional, especially in the hot and humid climate of the Philippines, as it allows for better air circulation. Additionally, the loose fit of the Kamusa does not restrict the mobility of women and allows them to move freely while doing daily activities. The Kamusa has a scoop neckline, bell-shaped sleeve above the wrist, pleated or gathered at the cap of the sleeve, dropped shoulder, and cropped at the waist 1-2 inches below the waist. During the 1800s, when underwear or bras were not yet commonly worn, women in the Philippines wore what we call the Panuelo or Fichu on top of the Kamusa. The Panuelo is a perfect square and folded in half and worn as a cover for the chest and the bust area during that time. Both Kamusa and Panuelo are usually made out of pinya or fabric made from pineapple fibers. Or aba ka, also known as Manila Hem. These fabrics were popular choices because of their durability and cooling properties, which were essential for staying comfortable in the tropical climate. To start off the pattern, trace your dartless bodice on your pattern paper. By the way, I have a separate tutorial for dartless bodice and I will put the link up here. From the waistline, mark down to inches or 5 cm. Square a line and disregard the access. From shoulder tip, mark in 1.5 inches or 3.75 cm. From this mark, measure out 3.5 inches or 8.75 cm and mark. And extend the shoulder line towards the mark creating a new shoulder line. From arm hole at chest line, mark in 1.5 inches or 3.75 cm. Square a diagonal line from new shoulder line to the mark at chest line. From under arm seam, mark down 1.5 inches or 3.75 cm. From this mark, ridge out the arm hole hitting the diagonal line at arm hole. From the new under arm seam, mark out 4.8 inch or 1.2 cm. From this mark, square down a line to create a new side seam. From the tip of new shoulder line, mark down 4.8 inch or 1.2 cm. From this mark, draw a semi-curved line blending in with the previous line. From the first mark at shoulder, mark out 1.5 inches or 3.75 cm. From the front neckline, mark down 2 inches or 5 cm. Next, connect both marks creating a front scoop neckline. And connect the shoulder mark to the previous front neckline and this is for the back neckline for the camisa. This is the back neckline and the front neckline for the camisa. Next, measure the new arm hole and record. Mind you that my measurement will be different from yours. From the new waistline, mark down 1.25 inches or 3.1 cm. for the ham-facing and square lines to complete. And add your desired sewing allowance. Label the pattern on fold and label the ham-facing. From the bust line, mark down 4 inches or 10 cm. And square a line to complete. This is the chest to bust-facing. Next, duplicate the pattern for the back and duplicate the back and front phasings. For the sleeve, draw a half t-line. We will draft the sleeve on fold. From the top line, mark down 3 inches or 7.5 cm. for the cap of the sleeve. And square a line. From the angle, mark in the arm hole measurement that we previously recorded. And square a diagonal line. Divide this line into four sections. Mind you, my measurement is different from yours. At the first half, mark up to 1 inch or 0.6 cm. At the last half, mark down 1.8 inch or 0.3 cm. And draw the cap for the sleeve with a French curve. From the cap, mark down 20 inches or 50 cm for the sleeve length. And square a line. The width is the same measurement as the arm hole measurement. So mark this and square a line. Divide the width by 5, creating 5 cut-out lines. And cut everything out, making 5 strips or pieces. Next, spread the strips by 2 inches or 5 cm in between. Label this part on fold. And from the previous cap line, mark up to inches or 5 cm. From this mark, let's redraw the cap and add your desired sewing allowance. For the sleeve of the camisa, you can either gather the cap or pleat the cap. Next, cut all the self, facings and sleeve patterns on the fold of your fabric. By the way, before cutting the sleeves, mark at the first strip for the gathering reference. For both back and front self, mark down the hem facing 1.25 inches or 3.1 cm. And fold it and press. Next, face both self pieces right side to right side. Pin and place at the shoulder to prepare for sewing. Sew the shoulder line according to your sewing allowance. And press the seams open for a clean finish. Next, place the facing and self pieces right side to right side. And pin and place at the neckline. And sew the neckline accordingly. Next, sand or push all of the sewing allowance to the facing side and top stitch by 1 mm. And press the neckline for a clean finish. Next, sew the facing and self pieces together at the side seam and at the armhole. At the hem of the sleeves, mark up 3 inches or 7.5 cm. And fold and press. This is the hem facing for the sleeve. From the edge, top stitch by 4.7 inch or 1.25 cm. So as you can see, I finished the hem facing for the sleeves. And I had few pieces of lace trimmings left and I will attach this at the hem of the sleeve. I'll pin the lace trimmings in place in preparation for sewing. Because there's no time for hand sewing and that will take a lot of my time, I will sew the lace trimmings at my sewing machine. After that, I will gather at the cap of the sleeve from notch to notch. After gathering, attach the sleeves to the bodice of the kamisa. Place the sleeve and the bodice right side to right side. Start to pin at the underarm seam from end to end. And sew the sleeve to the bodice according to your sewing allowance. And there you go, your kamisa should also look like this. Next, place again right side to right side and pin at the underarm seam to the side seam. Sew the side seam from hem facing to the sleeve hem facing from end to end. And this is how your kamisa should look like. And yes, the sleeves are bell shaped and it is meant to be oversized. And to complete off the kamisa, sew the hem facing at the bodice. Fold the hem facing and sew by 2.7 inch or 0.6 centimeters from the edge. For the panballo, prepare a 37x37 perfect square on your paper. Choose one angle and from this angle mark in 2 inches or 5 centimeters. From the other angle, fold the square until the mark. At the folded line, locate the half and draw a line. From the center line, mark in 7 inches or 17.5 centimeters, both sides. So that will be 14 inches in total. And mark out 2 sets of 7 inches or 17.5 centimeters each side and square up 5 lines. From the folded line, mark up 3 sets of 4.7 inch or 1.25 centimeters. And square in 3 lines for folding references. Next, flip over to the right side of the panballo and fold the panballo 3 times. Make the lines your reference for folding. After folding, pin in place to hold the folds. From the folds, mark up another 4.7 inch or 1.25 centimeters. Flip the panballo to the wrong side and fold by 4.7 inch or 1.25 centimeters wider. From the folds, mark up another 4.7 inch or 1.25 centimeters. And transfer the pins to hold the folds. Flip again to the right side and fold by 4.7 inch or 1.25 centimeters wider. And lastly, from the folds, mark another 4.7 inch or 1.25 centimeters. Flip over to the right side and fold and use mark references to fold. Transfer the pins to hold the folds in place. And there you go. We're done. To hold the pleats or folds, you can sew the lines by hand or on your sewing machine. By the way, if you are wondering, the short angle is the wrong side and the longer angle is the right side. To sew the panballo, fold the edges twice and press. And top stitch the edges by 2.7 inch or 0.6 centimeters. And sew three of the stitch lines before folding or pleating. And create the folds or pleats just like what we did in the pattern. And by the way, press the folds for a clean finish. Next, mark the three stitch lines that we did earlier. And finally, sew in place to hold the pleats or the folds. By the way, I found few beautiful lace appliques and I will place it here at the right side, here at the angle to create motifs for the panballo. Since hand sewing takes time, I will sew the appliques using my sewing machine. And this is the panballo complete with the lace motifs. Eh, voila! So this is the camisa top without the panballo. So this is the front view. This is the side and the back view. And this is the sleeve. And as you can see, this sleeve is oversized or boxy, pleated on the cap and has a shape of a bell. And this is the camisa with the panballo. This is the front view. This is the side view. And this is the back view. Anyway, guys, I hope this tutorial gave you enough tips on how to create the barrel or camisa and the panballo. And if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to comment down below. And I'll make it sure to answer your questions as quickly as possible. And if you are not subscribed yet to my YouTube channel, Lamo Delist, make it sure to hit that subscribe button. And if you like this video, give it a huge thumbs up and share this video to your friends. And I will see you guys again on the next tutorial. Apyento!