 Welcome to the MapBec podcast, woke up this way He's got a lot of cool stuff he's gonna show you today The latest news, industry topics and business tips For all hair stylists and salon owners, it's time to flip the script Grab your positions, scissors, barber combs and swivel twist razors Let's cut a bob, a quick shag, pixie cut with a little bit of flavor Check out the live classes, product reviews, let's rock on Don't forget to check out Free Salon Education I'll knock up this way It's gonna be a great day Chop it, flip it, spray it, flip it I woke up this way What's up guys, welcome to today's show Here we go, I'm back, there we go What's up guys, welcome to today's show We're gonna have a great time today I got a good friend on here, Colin Caruso I told you guys that was gonna happen yesterday And it did happen today Colin's here, he's live from his salon I'll bring him on in a second I see you guys, logging in on the chat What's up, Xena, good to see you Blanca, Roxy How are you guys, make sure If you guys can do me a favor and just share the show On whatever platform you're on, let's grow this room As big as we can get it If you're new to the show, type new in the chat So everyone can say hi And if you are an OG of the show You've been on the show for a long time We're now 41 episodes straight 41 days straight of this show If you've been watching it for a long time You guys know the drill about type Q And put that in the chat So I can see your question come up I'll ask it to Colin And then we'll go back and forth And we'll answer all of your questions Today we're gonna get into not only color formula But he's gonna show you an application Talk about the new color launch from Paul Mitchell And all kinds of stuff So without further ado My good friend Colin Caruso Right here, what's up dude What's up my brother? How are you? Good to see you man Yeah, did you like that rap at the beginning? Dude, you got it down man You're like crazy over here, I love it I told you, somebody asked me How you get that done I'm like you can pay anybody to do anything Really There you go It looks great man You gotta tell you this too man You are an awesome asset To our industry brother You've always been like that since day one We know each other 15, 20 years I don't even know We're both less heavy And a lot cuter but Knowing you for a long time You always have your heart in the right spot man So thank you so much For helping hairdressers be successful Yeah, you too That's actually something I wanted to talk about real quick Before we get into this Because when I moved from Farmtown, Illinois Out to the East Coast You were kind of one of the first people that I met And we've known each other since then That was 16 years ago And I've watched your career Because you kind of About a year into me moving here Is when your thing took off Right, you were traveling the world You know I always looked up to that Always thought that was cool And wanted to kind of be in that spot as well So it pushed me And it's funny because I remember When I hit my first $8,000 Month in the salon I remember talking to you at a training And being like dude I hit $8,000 You're like alright now hit $10 That was kind of always The push and the relationship So it's cool I'm so happy to have you on here I know you're a busy guy I'm just a director of Palm Mitchell Color now So you know it's busy And you got a lot going on I can't wait to hear what you got to say today Yeah man we are Push and push and push in You know at Chomp Palm Mitchell Systems We have new products coming out You know so we have a lot to be excited about Salon is freshly getting opened I don't know if you can see everything behind me But we are cleaning, scrubbing So we just finished up all that Getting ready to open We don't open until Monday here So excited for that man Lot going on Lot happening Lot happening in the world Lot of good change in the world So I'm excited to be a part of that And you know have this amazing opportunity To chat with you Everybody watching man Any questions Anything I can help with Whether it's open in your business Or color questions Anything man I'm here to help Yeah remember guys If you have a question Type Q put your question Cullen will answer it You guys always have color Formulation questions All of that in the chat And you know I like coloring hair But I always say I color hair To make money and I cut hair And I do it for free So I think you're the opposite of that Yes we're a good team man Yeah we're a good team I don't like hair coming brother There you go So if you guys have questions post them This is definitely the time to ask for sure So go ahead Cullen Yeah so what we're working on today We have our brand new crema XG If you guys haven't seen this yet It's awesome It is a demi permanent It is perfectly shade matched To work with these guys right here If you guys are working with color XG You now have your cream demi To go along with it If you're not working with color XG Hey check it out It's an amazing color line It performs as good if not better I mean I think better Than all the major competitors We did independent testing We are right up there And we're actually more cost effective Which is huge right now As you guys are looking So we can talk pricing And all those things As we go along But it's really about saving money Not reopening staying open You know what I mean Yeah It's a big big part Of what we're doing here So let's get into formulation Are you cool with that Matt Yeah for sure Love it Alright so one of my favorite things To work on especially On these lighter kind of colors Iridescent peaches I know it sounds crazy But taking these red orange And these orange kind of Seven eight levels And marrying them with pearls Or violets or cool tones Not something that we would Normally consider doing a lot But when you really kind of Take these cools And you marry them with these Warm tones You're going to see Beautiful iridescent shiny reds And it's really kind of Crazy and beautiful But it's something I'm really been a fan of Over the past year When we do the Kremit XG videos I know we're going to watch A little sneak peek At some point of some of the Stuff we've done You can see those results And they really come to life When you kind of see them In the sun They're really really pretty Really fun And they're really good option For a lot of clients out there That want something different Lighter but not necessarily Your traditional blonde Or not necessarily Your really deep red So it's kind of like A beautiful hybrid color In between Nice Yeah so I'm going to mix those up And the first color I'm working with We're working with our Seven four three Or our seven RO Right four is red Three is gold So you're seven RO And what I've done is I went in With a half an ounce Of our seven RO And then I went in With one ounce Of our ten stroke eight six This is like Kind of like a Soft pearly blue violet At a level ten So that level ten Is not going to Over dominate That's the depth Of that four three That we want But it's really going to Soften and add That's the color That we're looking for So that's in bowl one All the crema Really simple Mixed up with Clear ten With cream ten Volume developer So you don't need A dedicated line It's a mixed up In equal parts So it's going to be About an ounce and a half I don't want to Over mix color That's something I'm bringing up I don't care What color line You guys use Don't over mix Especially in this COVID era That we're in We're seeing less clients So you got to Color from Paul Mitchell Color X Street Is three dollars And nine cents Mixed That's for Two working ounces Hair grows about Half inch to one inch You guys think About this Half inch a month So if the average guest Is coming in Every eight weeks Two ounces of Working color Is enough to Really kind of take care Of that zipper Or whatever's coming in We haven't seen Our clients in a while So now you've got To think about it If they're growing A half inch every month We haven't seen them In three months Or even four months That's two inches of Regrow Four or five months That's three inches Of regrow When we start to Really look at How much more color We're using That average application Can go from three dollars If you're using Paul Mitchell It's more If you're using Like a well or something else But you can figure it Out yourself But what Actually what Happened is If I'm using Triple that amount Of color Basically now I go from about Three dollars To about nine dollars When we re-open Again, it's not about Re-opening It's about staying open Things like that Even just charging That guest An extra six, eight Ten dollars For excess color It's huge right now To keep you guys profitable Or even breaking Even if you're doing Less clients So don't over mix You just went One ounce there The second bowl That we're going to Work with here Is our Eight RO Again, similar It's eight red Orange Lighter level And we mixed Here with our Eight, eight, one What that is Is that pearl With the ashy tone So this is going to be A little deeper Obviously it's At a level eight We're mixing These in equal parts So we're going to Get a stronger Iridescent tone And then where We place those Is going to be Pretty significant And then What's great is We have our XG clear This is going to Soften those tones A little bit Up the level But it's going to Soften those tones So these are all Deposit only Great for toning Great for adding Depth to your hair You know Wherever you guys Are looking for In between foils Low lighting All for those things But also great On those Lived in blondes You know That either You want to neutralize The warmth Or if you Want to add Warm It's all perfect For those Because they Gradually fade On tone You guys have Ever heard of this company But they're Absolutely amazing Check them out What you do Here Matt Is you basically Put in your Price of color And then it Works Bluetooth with an app So whenever I Mixed It tells me How much color I'm putting in The bowl So I can Actually charge The client For that color I think that's The way the Future's going Raising prices Just charge A bit more for color I know I talked A big chunk there Matt Sorry Oh no it's good It's really good So is this This is good for You can do In between foils too As well like that kind of Like It's just a good It's replacing It's not replacing Demi but it's It's a Instead of using Liquid if you Wanted cream It's more conditioning Is that kind of The thought process One of the things That was really kind of Holding us back At Paul Mitchell Is we have We didn't have a cream Demi So everybody knows Paul Mitchell knows We have The Demi And the Demi Is the fastest growing Color line out there Is absolutely amazing It crushes It's a liquid Gel consistency It is awesome But one of the things We realized That hey We really want to Support color Like Or we're trying to Lead with color At John Paul Mitchell Systems If we really Wanted to do a great Job We're missing a cream Demi The colors need To help them We're not living We identified really quickly That we did need a cream Demi Even though we have A great liquid Demi We wanted to make sure We had that cream Demi And this is again Shade matched perfectly To work with color XG So And oftentimes A lot of people Don't realize this But where Demi's work the best Especially cream On really damaged Or dry hair You definitely Want to go in With a cream And one of the reasons Why You want over Dry damaged hair It's actually going to Resist Fade out So you want something That can just be driven Into the hair And stick instead So The cream XG is great for that It's great for painting Between foils It's great for Low lighting When If you Want to cover Gray here And then don't Want to run Ammonia over the Ends Which again Can actually Push color Out if you Continuously run You really got A great option there Okay cool So Loving up man You got to do that right Yep So one of the things We're looking at here too Quick color service Again we are now And everybody always says We're post COVID I don't know about you Brother But I think we are Still in COVID Yeah You'll post to me Yeah I'm not ready to say post Yeah So in this new We're entering The COVID era Of doing hair Techniques That I can get A guest really happy And satisfied But also get them Out of the salon quicker It really is You know we can't do Hair the same way You're not going to Re-open the same business You closed In COVID right So Pre-COVID So one of the things I got to do is Look for fast Depositing color techniques I'm going with An old technique I did a long time ago But just because It's old Doesn't mean I want To retire it All the time In the salon I know you know it Matt It's called the sun Technique Yep I love it Because it's quick It gives me the Protection I want And what's Really cool too Is sometimes Especially when you Guys look at the Clients that have come in And have colored Their own hair And you have That mess Kind of big mess Kremit XG is huge For that Just being able to Deposit over Their own Brassy roots Or whatever That really is safe You guys can work On the art of formulation Get rid of that warmth And have it processed In 20 minutes And in and out So really quick Color corrections Where we get that base Nice and even And then we go in And highlight over top You know Next visit And that's something That we've been Hoping to do here As soon as we get Open So I'm taking Little triangle Divots So we have that circle The bigger the circle The more protection Or veil you'll have So now I'm just Taking these little triangles Through the middle here Right You guys can see Really simple And we call it The sun technique Because my boss Angus Mitchell Brought us all To Hawaii For inspiration This was You know When you Basically the exact time You were talking about There Matt About 15 years ago We went with Angus to Hawaii And we had to Create techniques Based off Our inspirational Trip And this was mine There And you know Always present And we really wanted To create fast Fun techniques So you take those Little divots And these are what We call the rays And I'm just Going to zip That back up So you guys can see You don't need A bunch of clips You don't need Tons of stuff Into here So I'll clip That up So all this Is my base So I'm going To go in My deepest color I have Choices I can put Something that I work with What I'm going to do Is go in With that 881 My deeper color And I'm just Going to go ahead And start to apply Through here So A little trick You guys Seen this before Take your comb Hold it Like You know A shank So to speak I don't know What else to call it But once it's in here Now pick up Your brush So now you have Basically 90 degrees This paints Right And this sections And that makes a big difference Not only does it save time It keeps your section Cleaner So there's a fine line Between knowing how To do something And knowing why You're doing it That's what Makes you professional You know You know Knowing how To do something Makes you capable Knowing why You're doing something Personal Figuring out quicker Faster ways to do things And be cleaner That's what we're looking at To be pros So this can help me Really section Really quickly The other option Matt would be to paint And paint And then everything's dirty And messy And it takes a lot longer So Right Actually be cleaner And quicker Work in this way So this will take A couple of minutes What's new with you Man What's going on Matt So Well first off I just want to say Because we're having A YouTube issue But we're not having a Facebook issue So Those of you guys That are watching On Facebook And all of that Like you'll be able to watch it later So I'll repost it We're not having any problems On my end But for some reason Streaming in We are So I apologize To anybody watching That's seeing an issue But it'll I'll repost this And everything's good Nothing's new With me calling Because I've been doing this show Every day At 12 So I'm teaching I think when COVID This all happened It was kind of like I can't just sit at home You know And not And teaching is You know For both of us It's kind of our thing I think So like I just said You know what I'm just going to do it every day And So that's been fun Slan's still closed We still don't know When we're opening P.A.'s weird In Philadelphia So P.A.'s open Half the State But Philadelphia area Isn't So Like the 26th Will be our Go-ahead But I don't know So what have you had to do To the salon In preparation With everything? Well first and foremost We had to make sure We got cleaning supplies That has been Yeah The biggest challenge Right I am like Hitting Costco up Every day Trying to find Wipes Right Yeah We put a nice little Stockpile together Secondly man We've been working hard Just bringing the team back And Really kind of Learning from everybody That's been open That's kind of One of the advantages Right I mean I know you guys Aren't open yet But you're in the Same boat I am Which is You get to talk To a lot of your buddies And I know you got a lot Of friends in this industry So you get to Kind of hear What's going on And we're just Taking it slow man I gotta tell you We opened this week We didn't try to Overbook We're not worried But ultimately I'm just concerned that My staff Gets adjusted to The new normal Yeah And that They're able to Kind of You know take Just a few clients And then we'll take it Next week And we'll see if We can take more Or less You know We were Spacing out Stations It's funny man We spaced out Stations before We even closed Like we knew That was the thing To do March 13th Yeah And just getting Ready to get back in Practicing with gloves Cutting hair with gloves In case You know it's all about Magic fear level Yeah That's what I learned early And like I'm sure you have Friends and family That are like At a zero at this Who like see you And hug you And high five you And you're like Whoa You got other people That are at a 10 That haven't seen The day of light yet And you know A lot of that Has to do with You know How you know How you know So for me We're just managing Fear levels We want to make sure That we're doing Whatever the state requires But we're also You know Understanding And compassionate That this might be The first time Someone's being touched In months You know You want to do Whatever we can To make sure they Feel comfortable And we also Understand You know That a lot of people Lost their lives to this And you know It's a big deal It's serious I have a buddy Who's a good friend You know So from work So it's serious They weren't like A state that everybody Wears masks So But ultimately We're just kind of Taking it day by day Man Yeah We actually had Our first So we do A softball league Every year An adult Softball league And our salon Sponsors a team And we We just had Our first game The other day And that was cool Because we got around people For like the first time Really And It was fun to like Just talk to everybody But softball's easy Because you kind of stay away Well at the At the end They all start shaking hands I'm like Wait, wait, wait That's the part We got to remove From this whole thing Yeah, it's weird It's weird I haven't played basketball yet Because of contact Yeah, exactly Yeah Man I mean I remember when this First started People were like Hey, the handshake's dead You know, people went through This whole thing Obviously I mean To me, the handshake's not dead It's just more valuable Yeah Exactly Yeah So, you know It is what it is And it is Quote a new normal Yup It takes a little bit Of getting used to You know So For sure That goes, man I mean, we're stoked We got a few clients in I'm only taking Four people on Monday Yeah That's what I always tell people Like You don't have to make All the money back In the first week Right You know And I think as a business owner I think it's really important To under promise And over deliverance That's a good point Actually When you think about it Because I think everybody Thinks that If they don't rush Their clients back in They're gonna lose All of them or something Like People need to realize That some people Still are freaked out So like You don't have to Like There's gonna be You know At the same time I think you're It's okay to Slowly go back into it It's crazy, man Because everybody says this Right Like We're all in the same boat We're not all in the same boat You know what I mean We're all on the same Rough seas Right But we all have Different vessel You know Depending on If you have money in the bag Depending on If you lost a family member To this Depending on If you have a Compromised immune system There's a lot of dependence You know what I mean And In the world right now I mean I think It's now more than ever It's basically Hey We gotta look at things Through other people's lens It's not our home You know I think the more We can do that The better off we're Gonna be You know In every way You know For us I mean That's kind of What we've been We've been pushing We've also been Addressing the issues Of race And inequality At our work And at our position And having some Really great Long time And you know I'm really proud of How we're kind of Stepping up And learning And adjusting And you know We both have kids man And you're one of the Best dads I know I see you every day Out there You're like I mean You're getting better At lacrosse too I am Yeah You know I know That's something We both have in common That we want to be The best dads In the world You know That we can be For sure A great planet For our kids to live in And I really do think What's so amazing About the beauty industry Right now Is that It's the one industry That can bring everybody together Yeah You know Like people sit in our chair And we can share Our perspectives And we can change minds And we can make People more beautiful Inside and out You know what I mean And I think That's something I'm really looking forward To doing When I get back In behind the chair As well Yeah definitely Through all of this COVID But everything Like Just The value Of good relationships And making people Feel good And like all of that I feel like that is definitely On the forefront of like When Like I think about a lot When I get back in the salon Or even when I Now like when I Make a post on the internet It's like There's a bigger purpose Of like What is your message Like what are you Trying to do You know Even like The other day Like So some of us like React So I'll get like A weird negative comment I'm on the internet a lot So I get Negative stuff You know Quite a bit And it's You know You look at it And you're like You want to react quick And then you You just start thinking Like What's the purpose And like last week I reacted Or maybe it was this week I don't know I reacted And I post somebody Saying something negative That was like Towards somebody That made a video So it made me frustrated I knew it would get a reaction And I knew people You know Would talk about Or whatever And then I was like Christina sent me a message Just like What are you doing Because What it does Is it just brings out Negativity And like Before I felt like You know That was a conversation That needs to happen But at the same time It's like You know I think we just need More like Leadership And positive stuff Happening And that's what I like I like seeing Happening up And just Either owning What they didn't do Uh That well Before And owning up To what they want to do In the future Or just You know Just pushing forward You know Yeah I mean You know It's not You know It's not always An easy conversation To have It's not always Easy things To bring up And of course Negativity You know Is Month I ain't gonna lie to you You know Dealing with All the world's issues Through here And then I realize Man This isn't about me I can't help the situation Yeah You know I can bring awareness To Black Lives Matter Even as a white Male myself I can have some Tougher conversations That become easier You know As I start to Move forward And I can make the change And I'm not afraid of You know Putting myself out there Or not having You know The It's really not about that It's about bringing awareness And like I said If you really look at the Professional beauty industry Or just salons in general Salons, man We are a hodgepodge of people And you know We bring our talent And our a-game To everybody And we become valuable Always said like Hairdressers, man We are like the Celebrity's celebrity Right Behind the scenes celebrity You're the ones that The celebrities want Right You know Like in demand Like we don't Bring that You know That we don't have The same billboard Box off Is drawn by any stretch But we're the ones That make You know Society look And feel beautiful And one of the things I really kind of You know Understood is that We have the power To speak Speak our minds Bring people together And we have a Responsibility To make the planet Better And I'm excited To be able to Do that Moving forward You know That's what leaders do It's a responsibility Of leaders, man You know And it's not always It's not always easy So You know Good stuff though I mean it's It's all about Seeing things From different perspectives Whether it's COVID Whether it's Black Lives Matter Whatever it is It's You know We know how we see things You know It's We have to see it From other sides Even for me, man Like I It's not the same thing By any stretch But artistically I have that client That'll come in And be like Does this look red After I did their hair I'm like If you see red Like I Will spend zero time Saying it isn't Right I will spend more time Fixing the situation Because I want my Guests to leave happy You know So if you're Seeing whatever You're seeing It's not up to me To say yes Or no It's up to me To fix it It's up to me To make it better I have a client I can't wait until she comes back But She I'll cut her bangs Or whatever Let's say I cut it And she'll be like Do you think These are Like Do you think these are too long I'm like Well It doesn't matter Yeah It doesn't Yeah If I say they look great Are you going to leave happy And not come back tomorrow No That's the reality It's like If it's too Just say But I guess That's some people's way of Asking for your professional Yeah Yeah Or just bringing up A tough subject to damage They don't want to You know Say you didn't do something Correctly, right Yeah So they're just asking you You know I'm just glad we're not tattoo artists Because that seems a lot More stressful I can't even imagine That is That is where you That's where you want to Not make mistakes Alright So you guys can see Right through here You have that little Kind of Pinky Soft tones Now keep in mind That's our Eight stroke eight one With our eight stroke four three So What you have is you have That red orange But by adding that Iridescent cool tone to it You're starting to get This beautiful kind of Pinky color Now as that starts to Oxidize Those orangey tones Those golden orangey tones Are going to start to Pick up more So they're going to Overdominate that Eight stroke eight one But what you're going to See is they're going to Start to mesh together So really that's where You're going to get that Beautiful soft level Eight red orange But it's going to have That pearl type look And sheen over top So these are like Really red colors And they're really fun To work with You know these kinds of stuff And I really do believe This man Like as we start to look And I'm going to go in Now with our seven four Three Ten eight six So this is going to be Like a deeper red And through the middle Here But you know I really do believe That like Again I said I'll say every class Like knowing how To do something Makes you capable Right so there's a lot Of capable people out there There's a lot of capable I'm a capable contractor Like I just hung up A hand dryer You know I'm capable Using a screwdriver But I'm not professional I mean that's pretty much Where it stops with me And I think the same goes For hair colors Like if you really want To be a professional Hair colors You really have to start To push yourself Harder And understanding art Of formulation It really comes down To formulation Placement is easy You can teach anybody To play color It's not hard It's just like Kind of learning How to section out And clip things up Once you have that It's kind of simple So formulation is really Where you guys want to focus And now more than ever You know Clients are coming in With these amazing pictures These different tones The worst thing in the world Is when a client says I want my head to look like this And you don't know How to make that color That is a terrible feeling Has that ever happened to you Matt? Yeah for sure It's scary So one of the things I do is like I look I constantly am trying To see what colors Are trending I'm trying to see What colors The celebrities are wearing Whatever I can do You know there's actually Websites like beauty stream Where you guys can log on And see what colors are trending And this is kind of crazy These unnaturally natural tones Are trending I know that sounds weird But they're actually like Dog colors So think like pitbull blue Wymerine or greys Like iris setters People are actually coming in And wanting these colors That are found in nature On dogs in their hair I know that sounds crazy But it's true And you know So all these kind of colors This is what we're kind of doing here These iridescence They're vibrant tones But they're flatter If that makes sense Right So how do you do that? Well you formulate And you practice You know And it sounds creepy But pick up hair off the floor Swatch it Formulate it Figure it out And constantly elevate yourselves To be able to formulate That's a good call Yeah See this is where I'm not like a color Like I wouldn't think to do that But that's like You can't pick up hair off the floor And then recut it And try it out that way But to color it It's human hair Probably a great way to like To test lifting To test deposit All of that stuff That makes a lot of sense Hey man I learned that one on the road I can tell you too Like I prefer As a colorist To color freshly cut hair Okay That's always my favorite Man Like if somebody gives me a beautiful shape And then I get to place color to it It's pretty And don't get me wrong It's awesome the other way around too Like when you You know You send your color off And then An amazing hair cutter goes in And like Totally shreds it out Makes it look rad That's a great feeling too Sometimes I don't even recognize Like that was my color So that's what I think But I really love to place Color to a shape And I think that was From my upbringing Like I grew up You know When I first started coloring hair I was traveling the world With Angus Mitchell DJ Maldoon You know Some of the best hair cutters In the planet You name it Like Tskashi All those guys Robert Crow means Like you know This was How many years ago Matt I don't even know 10, 15 years ago Yeah, probably 15 Crazy Yeah, crazy So I had this huge responsibility Of like Here's my amazing haircut And this is not a dig on these guys But they would take just as long Cutting it As I would coloring it And processing it You know what I mean How much detail they put into it And they loved their models And they would send it over I mean I'm more of a behind-the-chair color It's like Get it done Get it on Move to the next one How are you feeling As a guest What do you want I'm not really this Kind of eccentric Kind of artist That's like This is my art Or my work In the people business That's how I grew up Yeah But I've been working with guys That are just so focused, man And they would be sending me Their life's work Right Yeah We'll color it And I'd be like I don't know what to do Yeah You know Like what do I do here And I'll panic a little bit You know In some of these situations So I had to learn pretty quickly Like hey This is kind of simple Alls I really have to do Is draw the eye to where I want you to look In their shape So if Angus put like Some beautiful graduation In the back line here If I don't color that properly You wouldn't really even see That graduation You know Because it was so perfectly blended So I learned really quickly To place my lightest color Where I wanted to draw the eye If I wanted you to look somewhere I'll place a lighter tone there It doesn't even have to be Lookable It could just be lighter Lighter tone And then I learned Really quickly Like all right Let's place something deeper Behind it And that doesn't have to be darker That could be tonality too So I really kind of broke things down In my own simple way So other things weren't over Complicated An example I can give everybody Listen Is like when the client sits In your chair And she's like Hey I'm cool Do whatever you want I don't think very many Artists like that Yeah You might look like that In a hair school But when you become Like a real colorist That's busy and pumped And you know Like that's stress Because you're like Do whatever Like your brain just overlifts Whatever Right That's a lot Yeah That's anything So And then you start saying How about this They're like well not that And then you realize There's no such thing as whatever But when a client says Hey I really want to Create a strong fringe And I want to Do something lighter Around the face Then I can start to say All right I now can Piece this together Here's the colors I like Here's the colors I don't like And really start to create So really quite simply I mean if you're looking To place color Look at that shape And say hey Where do I want to draw the eye Place your lighter color there And then put some deeper Deep tones behind it So that lighter color pops So now you're just working With light and depth Shadowing and reflection And now you can really kind of Make color really pop And formulation works The same way Really Yes Yeah I definitely learned a lot About formulation From you back in the day Like just understanding You know you used to do Like color math and all that stuff Like just you know But then I realized And this has been Over the last few years That I spent so much time Trying to neutralize everything That like You know like I wasn't enhancing anything Like it was like Well maybe you should use What is the underneath Your tone You know Yeah I mean that's a great point Man I got a lot of I got a lot of questions Like you do I'm sure online And one of the questions A lot of people ask me All the time is like Hey With fashion colors How do I bleach this A lot of times With fashion colors Use what's left To make your next color Yeah right You know like You don't have to bleach All the red out To put purple in Right You know like red Still needs to be there You just adapt To the levels of blues And then you change The color of You know formulation It's essential man And for one major reason And the most major reason For me is And it's quite simple We love people Heritageers love people So You have a client That sits in your chair And they say You know You talk to him You connect with him You know this is the coolest Person I've ever met You know they own a business Over here Cool this client is And everything's exciting And then You go to blow dry that person And then they're crying That's the worst feeling In the world Because you just connected With this person You feel as bad As they feel And you don't know How to fix it And you're just Emotionally coloring hair That is the biggest Life suck That can happen To anybody And there's times In my career Where I'm like I'm gonna quit Like I can't come to work And make people Who I care about Not love their hair Or not Do their hair right Or not know how to get it right And that's when I really was like Dude, I gotta learn The science behind this Because I don't want To be emotional Yeah Emotions don't That's not how You have a long career Sweet Sweet So I'm gonna Hit this up On the root Sorry about it I'm just gonna Hit this up And then I'm Gonna melt that in So I'm working with Both colors So this is our 743 Again with our 1086 Our 8-8-1 So sorry Did you have a question Or something? Oh, no, Jenny Was just saying Let me throw a backup On there She said I'm beyond thrilled To hear that XG has a demi And cream Nice So she says I feel like My dreams have come true They have Where do you work with it? I mean I gotta tell you We have Amazing chemists Valerie George And you guys Gotta give her A follow On Instagram It's Okay Now Valerie Not only is she A color genius You know She is basically The color god We all pray to And I cannot tell you how And she'll share with you guys And we're doing an amazing Series, Matt I think you'll think This is cool It's with One of the best colorists In the world An ink gen Montoya She's working with Valerie George Again, our chemist Who makes all of our Products At Palm Mitchell She makes all these Colors They're working together And they have A podcast called I mean it's not a podcast It's a web series That we're gonna put out Called The Color and the Chemist And the Chemist and the Colorist And they're basically Gonna show you guys Like all these little Experiments Like with hair To break down The science behind Not how Hair color works But why It's doing what it's doing Oh it's so good Oh it's It's like Like Bill Nye The science guy But they're Focused on hair color It's so cool That's really cool Yeah so But Valerie's Constantly And you can follow Jen's at Jenstar 12 I believe Is her Instagram But you can follow Both those ladies Are amazing And what's really cool though Is that Valerie really Knocked it out Of the park On this one And she gave us A color That looks amazing And you guys Can see it In the video That will play The color is stunning It's nothing I've ever worked with Before in my life And Val was telling me Like wait till you feel it I'm like yeah okay It's crazy You have all the shine That you need All I mean Above and beyond Amount of shine But when you run Your fingers through it It's like it had A conditioning treatment On top of it Which is That's stunning So It feels great It looks great And again You guys can Follow Valerie And Jen I'm always Asking Valerie These On how her color works And having somebody Like that Again You're taking the emotion Out of things And you're backing it With science And that's Pretty unreal Yeah that's cool That's how you take it To the next level Jess Jess is asking If she can quiz you On formula for a sec What would make A good rose gold So let's talk about That because This is A lot of people Ask about formulas And I'm Sure we have A very similar Thought on the fact That You could just Pick a formula And make it a formula So why don't you Talk about All that stuff Yeah I mean Basically you're Interacting with What's present So You know A nice rose gold You want to Have a nice Eight level base At least Now if you're Lower than that I can make Rose gold With high lifts And reds You know That's doable But again You really kind of Got to see What you're working If I'm going to Pre-lighten Anything like this Or a little bit deeper Or something like that We have rose golds Right out of the bottle In a rose gold Mutant metallic In the demi It's stunning I mean right out of the bottle It's actually gorgeous But if you're looking To formulate Typically what I do Is I add To our level Eight ROs Or our seven Rs Anything along that So that's where You're getting your reds And then I'll Combine those with These Our violet series Or our Eight stroke eight ones Similar to what We're doing here But you would End up really using A little more Of the eight eight one And a little less Of the red Believe it or not And that's how You get that pinky Kind of undertone That you're Even seeing Into here So really It's kind of Taking those eight eight Ones Those eight sixes Basically Your blue violets Mixing them With your reds And that's how You'll get amazing Amazing tones But again Those are things That you guys Should be Swatching Yeah That's good It's so easy To do And Let's see Navier Has a question How to fix The final results If it's Darker And the client Wants a level Lighter Any tricks On that Yeah You gotta Go back To the shampoo bowl If you're confident So There's a couple of tricks I'm gonna give you Some that I Shouldn't And some that I Should Alright So the first trick That I can give you If it's One level deeper Try rinsing out With a Detoxifying shampoo Like a Shampoo free And then Follow with A heavy Moisturizing conditioner Like the deepest Deep conditioning Moisture treatment That you can get What happens is That Shampoo three In our case Will open up That hair shaft A little bit It's higher on the PH scale Which will pull out A little bit of color And then When you follow With a deep conditioning Treatment Under Under an ionizer Or something like that A dryer Not only are you Repairing the hair But that bigger Moisture molecule Is gonna fight up For space It takes a little longer But that's a healthier way To do it The other way to do it Again I will take We have a product Well you can do An old shampoo cap You know Ten volume cream developer A scoop of lightener And shampoo one Or a light gentle Shampoo You have to be careful With those Because where you Apply it You really can't Get it in every Nook and cranny And it's gonna Lift quicker in some Spot So I really Don't suggest that Do it really quickly And just let it Shift And then once it Shift Then you gotta Tone over it again That would be The other way And then there's The old school Non-hair dresser Ways Where people use Like a Shampoo three And a baking soda And they Try to almost Like Detail it out That way Not super You know That's old School But it's Worked in some Situations Where you're just Helping you guys Figure out When you're in a Pickle how to Get out of it So that can Work Good deal Yeah Or you know You take the You take the Other approach Which is You know You suggest The guest Wear it out If it's not Too too bad And come back In a couple of Days And re-approach It That's another Time too Like you gotta And not quite sure Like hey Give me a day Come back And I'll I'll re-tweak it So it's the So let's go over this A couple of people are asking They're jumping on now So Want to go through the formulas And how you kind of Just re-reach Yeah So what I'm doing right now Is just Meshing all these colors Together So let's start Here We went in With our H-stroke 8-1 8-R-O Equal parts Okay So if you're looking at The H-stroke 8-1 It's an 8-PA Okay Then we went in With our 8-R-O Equal parts That's what you're starting To see here So you can see Because we were equal And this is like Kind of like A beautiful Iridescent Rose gold color too So you can Kind of see Like this is a good formula If you guys are Looking You know to get Those rosy gold You can see That has that Peachy kind of undertone It's still at that Level 8 We added a little Bit of clear to it About half ounce So that Really kind of Soften that tone A little bit So you can see That's kind of Processing right now That's all through The bottom Through the interior We went Two parts 7-R-O You can really See the vibrancy That's starting To happen in here And then we Just did One part 10-stroke 8-6 Really And I talk numbers Sorry But The 10-stroke 8-6 Grab the box Read it The 10-stroke 8-6 Is right here Sorry I'm looking for the box I don't know Where the box went for But yeah The 10-stroke 8-6 Is just to soften The tone a little bit Basically it's like A platinum So I'm mixing The 10-stroke 8-6 Together With that 7-R-O Again, level 10 Not really enough To deposit much there But it's just going to soften That R-O a little bit And give it that Little bit of iridescence Then we came in And that was Scout ends in the middle Then we came in And we shadow-rooted With the same 7-R-O 10-stroke 8-6 And now I'm hitting The 8-8-1 The clear And the 8-R-O Just meshing that In through the ends And then that's it So it's quick and fast I mean I took my time on it I can get this done Honestly in 20 minutes What's amazing about Crema Again, think about it You know I can really come in And apply a really beautiful color That processes in 20 minutes That's really what We got to be looking at In this new COVID Ever once we're back to work What are some things That I can do That aren't going to Take me quite as long And how can I Get color done quickly Especially the color correction Crema actually is a great resource For you guys there as well Clients that have done their own roots That's super brassy That's not like The prettiest color in the world You can go in 20 minutes And this will neutralize I mean it's great at Neutralizing warm tones And things like that as well So good option So Colin We have this video right I want to roll it But am I rolling the whole thing Just to play it through It shows a little technique But not much It's two minutes I think Yeah roll it man I mean that's cool right Alright let's roll that And then we'll do a little Q&A So if you guys have any questions Type them I want to try to keep this We're at 50 minutes I want to try to keep it Under an hour We can throw it on Instagram later So everybody can watch it We can show it on Instagram Separately if you want Yeah we'll do that too But I think it'll be fine So I want to roll it Because I want people to see And you'll also see these colors You'll see the end result And everything So I think you guys Will all dig it So let's watch the video Real quick and we'll be Right back Here it is Colin Kruso here Artistic director of color For John Palmich's systems Here today we talk about Crema XG What is Crema XG? It is our brand new Demi Permanent Paraben free Gluten free Free from animal byproducts And of course Ammonia free Demi Permanent color line That is perfectly Shade matched to Color XG It's absolutely the thing We've been waiting for And it's brilliant So let me show you guys How it works I'm going to take my first Formula At 9 p.m. plus One half ounce 7C Plus one ounce clear And 30 volume And that's going to be With our color XG Why? Because I want to Lift her roots Right? She has that natural color So of course I'm going to need that Ammonia to lift I'm going to get that From Color XG And I'm going to Get it brilliantly What's unique about The formula I'm taking that Pearl natural I'm adding that Three four of that Red to it To create a beautiful Iridescent Natural red To get that lift What's really interesting Though is I have All this beautiful Blonde hair That's already been Previously lightened So I don't want to run Ammonia over it So what I want to do Is just work with An Ammonia free color Line That's perfectly Shade matched to Color XG And we have that Now with Crema XG So my first Formula That I'm going to Work with Is my eight stroke Eight one Two ounces Plus one half ounce Seven stroke Four three With ten Two ounces One half ounce Seven RO Plus ten volume Crema XG So what I have here Is a deeper formula More deposit With that eight stroke Eight one And seven stroke Four three and clear Then I have a softer Deposit with my ten V and seven RO I'm applying That all to the Ends And where it's Super porous guys I'm definitely Going to want to Even that out With a damp application By using Awapui moisture mist I'm able to Fill out My ten results The technique Itself is really simple Because the product Works so great And you don't Over complicated I just came in With a traditional Retouch formula With Color XG And I'm going to Get perfectly Shade match And blended results With Crema XG Working back and forth So it's really Kind of a simple technique The product Is the star here guys You'll see It's perfect It's beautiful This process is Twenty minutes And what you'll see Is we go from Blonde To an iridescent Peach pearl In twenty minutes Shiny Healthy Beautiful Color results Vegan friendly That's Crema XG Alright So you guys can See Beautiful results Let me get us Back up here Alright There we are So that was Good too Look at that Two techniques And one day Techniques one day But you can See the results And if you wanted That to be Instead of the RO And you're in So it would be Less peachy And more rosy Very cool Alright I have a question For you here Can you explain Your view on Coloring between foils Do it After the foiling Or as you go I've tried it All I'd love to hear Your perspective It depends On your timing Right But for me I usually Put all the foils In And then Once they're in I will hit So as I put That foil in I'll just go To the mid And then Once I'm past The foil I just pull The edges out That makes sense And then I'll do that All the way through And then I'll just hit All those edges And then Be done Once everything's Done I used to do It where I would lift Each foil But I feel like You could get More bleed marks That way Yeah And then Pull all those Ends together If that makes sense And then Just hit them all Once Okay That's a good call And then Let's see For me to get a Okay We will So Somebody's asking If we could Write out the formulas I think This will be available Again If you guys Had like Weird Ways of watching it But I'll put it back Out so you guys Can see the formula And that formula Is on the The video As well Okay So if you guys Just go to that video And I want to tell you Like go to Color HQ Or Palmichill If you go Put in Palmichill John Palmichill systems In YouTube We have hundreds of videos For colors And on Palmichill Pro Same thing You can create an account Log in Tons of access Digital swatch books We even have a brand new thing Called Social Gathering Where you guys can Learn anything from business You click on a little wheel And you can take classes On anything And you can actually Upload your own videos As well Which is really cool That's social Yeah So just go to palmichillpro.com And you can find out All that All that information On there for sure And make sure you Follow Colin On Instagram You put some stuff up there You do You're more active Yeah I'm getting there All the time Yeah I'm getting there It's a tough Balance Physically teaching Running the salon Yes Beat with my kids Coaching soccer You know how it is Yeah But through COVID I got a little better Had a little more time for it I have a great pricing video There If you guys are more interested On how to price your color But I'm committed to being More active Because this is the way We're going And like I said, bro You've done such a good job I really think you've led the way And then You deserve a lot of credit For that You saw that before Anybody did You do it better Than anybody, my friend Thank you very much It's been like So awesome having you on here Obviously, I can't wait to have you back It's cool that we know We can do this You know So that's nice And you're going to be You're not that far So you'll be in the studio soon, too And we'll do some stuff together But Colin, thank you so much And enjoy your day Enjoy Good luck to the salon, too, man I can't wait to hear it Yeah, let me know Alright, man We'll see you later See you Alright, guys Let's see here Alright, guys So I want to finish this up Before the hour But Thank you guys so much For hanging in there I know that this Internet connection today Was rough I apologize for that Hopefully the recording is good I think it will be And I'm going to Re-upload it On all the platforms YouTube, Facebook And Instagram So you won't see this live Link anymore But make sure You follow me on all those platforms Because I will re-post it for you So that you guys can watch it For sure Thank you guys so much I hope you enjoyed all that Information with Colin Colin's a super smart guy So make sure you go follow him On Instagram Colin Caruso On Instagram And that's it I'll be back tomorrow I'll be teaching myself Not teaching myself But teaching You guys Myself If that makes sense Alright, cool I can't wait to see you guys tomorrow Let me know What you think of the show After I re-post it And you watch it again Thank you guys so much I'll see you Real, real soon Thanks so much And I'm ringing What do we say At the end of the show It's going to be a great day Chop it, flip it Spray it, flip it I woke up this way It's going to be a great day See you guys Chop it, flip it Spray it, flip it Let me show you the way