 Section 7 of The Complete Confectioner by Hannah Glass This LibriVox recording is in the public domain. Bomboons, pastels, etc. To make nut bomboons Take a pound of Spanish nuts and boil them in an iron pan. When they are well boiled rub off their skin with a napkin. If some stick too hard, pair it off with a knife. Take a tin grater and grate your nuts very fine on a sheet of paper. Then take a pound of powdered sugar to a pound of nuts. Put it in a pan over a slow fire. When your sugar is all melted in stirring it perpetually with a wooden spoon, put your nuts in and work them well till all is well mixed and pour it upon a tin plate. Take a wooden rolling pin to spread it, which you must be very quick in doing, for it cools very fast. And when it is cold cut it into what form you please. You must take care the sugar should not be too much melted, for it is very apt to soften when the nuts are joined to it. Lemon or orange bomboons Take a piece of loaf sugar, rasp the oranges or lemons with it, brush off what sticks to the sugar upon a paper. Then pound in a mortar the same piece of sugar and put it in a pan with that which is upon the paper and which tastes of the lemon or orange. Set it upon a gentle fire to melt it slowly. After which pour it upon a tin plate which must be rubbed before with a little butter or it will stick to the plate. Then spread it with the rolling pin as you did for the nuts. Observe the rolling pin must likewise be rubbed with butter for fear it should stick. When this is done and it is perfectly cold, cut it in what shape you please and send it up. To make bitter almond bomboons Take bitter almonds, boil them in water to take off their skin. After which place them in a stove to dry them. When they are well dried take a grater and do as directed for the nuts. You must put the same weight of sugar as almonds. To make coffee cream bomboons Take about a pint of coffee made with water. Put in it a pound of loaf sugar, set it on the fire and boil it to a high degree. Then add a full pint of double cream and let it boil again keeping continually stirring till it comes to caramel height. To know when it has come to that point you must have a basin of water by you. Dip your finger in it and put it quickly in your sugar then in the water again to remove the sugar which will have stuck to it. Take a bit of it in your teeth. If it is hard in its crackling take it off. It is to the height required. Pour it upon a tin plate and proceed as directed for the lemon bomboons. When it is warm you may cut it in little squares lozenges or any other shaped pastels and draw a few strokes over them with a knife. To make orange flower bomboons take dried burnt or what we shall call pre-lined orange flower which pound in a mortar and pass through a sieve. Then take half a pound of pounded loaf sugar which mix with your orange flower and put into a pan over a slow fire to melt it gently in stirring continually with a spoon. When it is all well melted pour it on a tin plate and do as directed for the lemon bomboons. The author notes the word pre-line is from the French there being no word to express the real idea of the French in this mode of preserving. To make pre-lined almonds take a pound of almonds clean them well of their dust with a cloth put them in a pan with a pound of sugar and a little water let them boil till they begin to sparkle then take them off the fire and stir them well with a wooden spoon till you see the sugar will turn gravelly then set them again over a slow fire to dissolve the sugar keeping still stirring that the sugar may stick to the almonds when you see your almonds become reddish they are well covered with sugar take them off pour them in a sieve cover them with a clean cloth and put them in a stove this makes them preserve their gloss To make pre-lined nuts take a pound of Spanish nuts without their shells which put in a pan with as much sugar and proceed as directed for almonds you may boil the nuts a little if you choose to take off their skin but then the sugar does not stick on them so well you may also make all sorts of pre-lines with clarified sugar which must be proportioned in equal quantity to the weight of sugar you want to pre-line your work will be certainly much the finer for generally they use loaf sugar To make pre-lined pistachio nuts take a pound of pistachio nuts ready shelled have a pound of water on the fire when it boils put your nuts in it let them boil thus a little then take them off and rub off their skin put them again in another pan with an equal quantity of sugar and continue exactly as directed for the almonds To make pre-lined orange peel take any quantity of oranges part them into four quarters take their rind off and take away very carefully all the white which is inwardly attached to it so that there remains nothing but the very superficy of the yellow rind which cut in strings as narrow as you please when that is done have a pan in which put some clarified sugar and let it boil a little then put your orange rind in let the whole boil together to a high degree take it off and stir it with a wooden spoon till you see your sugar is well mixed together you may set it again on the fire if you choose keeping stirring till you see the sugar begins to dissolve then take it off immediately this will make your orange rind firm and crackling in the mouth as there are people who do not like the bitterness of the orange rind you may in such a case give a little boiling to your rinds before you put them in sugar to make fresh orange flower pre-lined take any quantity of orange flowers pick them carefully leaf by leaf when that is done have a pan with what quantity of clarified sugar that is necessary boil it as before then put your orange flower in you will see that it will spoil all your sugar by the water it will throw off let it boil thus till your sugar recovers as far as the first degree then take it from the fire and stir it till your sugar turns sand or gravel-like should it not dry so well as you would have it set it again on the fire and keep stirring it perpetually till you see your sugar begins to melt take it off immediately and continue by stirring to reduce it to a sand better to have a little more trouble when working your sugar to reduce it in sand because then the orange flower does not take so much sugar and has a better flavour after it is dried throw it in a sieve to drain the sugar from it and keep nothing but the flower then place it in that sieve in the stove to finish drying it quite stirring now and then for fear it should stick together when it is well dried put it in your boxes and keep for use to make lemon pastils take half a pound of pounded loaf sugar sifted as fine as possible put it in a plate take three or four lemons which squeeze over your sugar mix it well with a spoon till you see it makes what is called a royal paste a little thickish that you may take it upon a knife then take half a sheet of paper and cover it with little round and flat drops which we call pastils of the size of a farthing place it in the stove with a slow fire till it is quite dry and take it off from the paper you may add to it if you choose some of the skin of the lemon rust or grated but not chipped for as it is a melting pastel some of the bits would remain in the mouth which is not quite so well to make chocolate pastils take a little chocolate which put in a pan over the fire to melt it stir it with a spoon when it is well melted take half a pound of loaf sugar pounded in a mortar and sifted which dissolve in a little clear water when that is done put in your chocolate if you find the paste too thick add a little water enough to bring it to that degree of liquidity specified for the lemons then dress it on half sheets of paper as we then directed but do not put it in the stove for the heat softens chocolate let it dry naturally in a cupboard and when dry take them off from the paper and put them in boxes for such purpose to make raspberry pastils take half a pound of pounded loaf sugar on a plate then a quantity of raspberries which squeeze through a sieve when that is done add the juice to the sugar till it makes a paste of that consistency specified in speaking of the lemons dress it on the paper and put it in the stove till dry another way to make raspberry pastils mash the raspberries put in a little water boil and strain them then take half a pound of fine sugar sifted through a sieve just wet the sugar to make it as thick as a paste put to it twenty drops of spirits of vitriol set it over the fire making it scolding hot but not to boil drop it on paper it will soon be dry if it will not come off easily wet the paper let them lie a day or two on the same paper to make current pastils do exactly as directed for the raspberries you have no occasion to put any water to these two sorts because the juice of the fruit is enough of itself to dissolve the sugar and make your paste as thick and as clear as you would have it to make coffee pastils take half a pound of pounded loaf sugar have about the quantity of two dishes of coffee made with water which put in your sugar and mix well till you see it makes a royal paste make it as thick and proceed as before directed for the lemon drops you may make them another way that is with ground coffee which you sift very fine through a sieve then adding a little water as directed for the chocolate drops to make orange pastils take about a dozen oranges squeeze out the juice very tender cut out most of the white and beat the yellow rind very fine rub it through a sieve and to a pound of the pulp put a pound and a half of fine sugar sifted through a sieve mix it well and put in the juice till you make it thin enough to drop from a teaspoon drop it on glasses and set it by the fire let it stand there about two hours and then put it in a stove the next day turn it it will be dry in 24 hours to make barberry pastils take a good quantity of barberries strip them off the stalks put to them a little water to keep them from burning boil them and mash them as they boil till they are very dry then rub them through a sieve and afterwards strain them through a strainer that there may be none of the black noses in it make it scolding hot and to half a point of the pulp put a pound of the sifted sugar let it scold and drop it on boards or glasses then put it in a stove and turn it when it is candied to make rotafia pastils either of apricot kernels or half bitter and half sweet almonds take a pound of kernels or almonds beat very fine with rose water take a pound of sifted sugar and the whites of five eggs beat to a froth mix them well together and set them on a slow fire keep them stirring till they begin to be stiff when they are quite cold make them in little round drops bake them on paper and thin plates end of section 7 section 8 of the Complete Confectioner by Hannah Glass this LibriVox recording is in the public domain conserves and compotes to make violet conserve take any quantity of violets which pick carefully leaf by leaf from their stalk put them in a little mortar and pound them well take them out with a card and put them in a saucer then take a little clarified sugar boil it to a high degree take it off from the fire add your violets to it and stir it well with a spoon but not to dissolve it grating of it very fine will answer the same purpose to make lemon and orange conserve take a lemon or an orange grate the rind with a tin grater put the powder in a saucer squeeze the juice of the fruit over it mix it well together with a spoon then boil some sugar very high because what you put in it is a liquor since it is the juice and the grating of the fruit mixed together lowers the sugar which requires the sugar to be boiled a little higher for this sort of conserve then for the others when your sugar is boiled to the proper height mix it in your composition and proceed on just the same as directed for the other conserves to make white lemon conserve boil a pound of the finer sugar but not so high as before take it off the fire and squeeze the juice of a lemon in it at different times stirring continually it will make the sugar as white as milk if properly done take care not to drop any of the seeds in it work it well together and pour it in the moulds when it is mixed of an equal substance which prove by pouring some with a spoon as any other jelly to make pomegranate conserve take a good large ripe pomegranate of a fine colour seed it one after another then squeeze it in a linen cloth to get the juice boil and reduce to half put it to a pound of sugar refined as for violet conserve when it is half cold work it well together and dress it in the moulds as usual to make conserve of hips gather your hips before they grow soft cut off the heads and stalks split them in half cut out all the seeds and white put them in an earthen pan stir them every day lest they grow mouldy and let them stand till they are soft enough to rub through a coarse hair sieve they are a dry berry and rub through with some difficulty add to them their weight in sugar and mix them well together without boiling keeping it in galley pots for use to make conserve of red roses take red rose buds bruise them in a marble mortar adding by degrees fine powder sugar sifted to the quantity of three pounds beat them till no particles arise until the whole becomes a firm and solid mixture to make conserve of orange peel take the clear rind of oranges steep them in water of a moderate heat till they are tender then strain the water from them pound them in a marble mortar and strain them through a sieve then bring the pulp to a proper consistency over a gentle fire and add to it thrice its quantity of sugar and let it be reduced into a conserve by beating it in a mortar to make conserve of quinces pair the quinces, take out the cores and seeds then cut them into small pieces boil them till they are soft to eight pounds of quinces put in six pounds of sugar boil them to a consistency to make conserve of red roses or any other flowers take rose buds or any other flowers and pick them cut off the white part from the red and take the red flowers and sift them through a sieve to get out the seeds then weigh them and to every pound of flowers take two pounds and a half of loaf sugar beat the flowers pretty fine in a stone mortar then by degrees put the sugar to them and beat it till it is well incorporated together then put it into galley pots tie it over with paper and over that a leather and it will keep seven years to make conserve of cherries stone your cherries and boil them a moment sift them and reduce the juice on a slow fire then it comes to a pretty thick marmalade add the proportion of a pound to a pound of sugar to make a compote of apples take any sort of apples cut them in halves take out the core and pair them very neatly and in proportion as you cut and pair them throw them into a basin of water for fear they should turn black have a pan on the fire with clarified sugar in very light that is to say half sugar and half water let it boil that you may skim it a little then put your apples in and do them gently taking care your sugar should not boil too fast because in such a case they would wash all to a pulp when you see that your apples are well done take them off from the fire and let them cool in the sugar but if they be too much done in cooling in the sugar itself they grow firm again so set them in your ashes but if you should perceive your syrup is too thin you may after you have taken off your apples set it again over the fire and give it what height you please to make a compote of oranges cut the rind of your oranges into ribs leaving part of the rind on cut them into eight parts and throw them into boiling water when a pin will easily go through the rind drain and put them into as much sugar boil till it becomes smooth as will cover them give all a boil together adding some juice of oranges to what sharpness you please you may put a little pippin jelly into the boiling when cold they make pretty plates to make a compote of pears take pears which must not be too ripe split them by the head's end with a knife put them into a pan of water and boil them till they are a little softened take them off and change them into cold water have another little pan of fresh water in which squeeze two lemons after which pair your pears neatly and put them into that lemon water to whiten them take then another pan with clarified sugar very light and put your pears in till they have well taken the sugar and are well done to make a compote of apricots take any quantity of apricots split them on one side to take out the stone put them in a pan of water and set them over the fire boil them very gently for fear they should mash when you see they are well softened take them off and change them into cold water take clarified sugar put your apricots in give them a little boiling then take them off and set them in your dishes to make a compote of green apricots take any quantity of green apricots then two handfuls of salt which wet with a little vinegar take a coarse towel put your apricots in it along with the salt and rub them well in the towel till you see the apricots have lost all their down be careful not to do them so hard as to break their skin when that is well done throw them into fresh water to make them lose the salt and vinegar which is done by giving them three or four different successive fresh waterings when your apricots are well cleaned prick them well with a pin set them in a pan of water on the fire and boil them as much as you please when they are sufficiently done take them off from the fire and let them cool in that same water till the next day when you must set them again on the fire in the same water and as soon as it begins to boil take them off and change them into cold water then take another pan with the first degree of clarified sugar put your apricots in let them simmer on a slow fire till they begin to turn very green you must not let them be quite done the first time you put them in sugar they must have then but one bubble in the sugar then take them off and let them stand till the next day when they will have thrown off all their water and turn of the most beautiful green to make a compote of green gauges take green gauges which prick with a pin and set on the fire in a pan of cold water till they are a little softened then take them off and let them cool in the same water when that is done take the highest degree of clarified sugar put your plums in it and set them again on a very slow fire to make them throw off their water and turn green you must also cover your pan during the second operation with a tin plate that they may not lose their steam which makes them greener after which take them off and dress them in your dishes to make a compote of quinces take quinces which cut into four quarters and take out their cores and pair them set them in a pan of water on the fire boil them as much as you please when they are done enough take them out of the water and put them on a cloth to drain then take another pan with the first degree of clarified sugar and put your quinces in and let them do gently upon a slow fire that they may be very mellow if you would have them red cover them as soon as you put them on the fire with a tin plate and leave them on till they are quite done then take them off and dress them in your dishes if your sugar is in jelly put them directly in your dishes and pour sugar over them to make a compote of cherries take cherries and cut off half their stalks have clarified sugar put your cherries in and let them boil till they are done enough then take them off from the fire and let them stand till they are grown sufficiently cold to take them all one by one and set them on their stalks upwards in your dishes and pour sugar over them to make a compote of booncretian pears pair your fruit and cut them into slices scald them a little squeezing some juice of lemon on them in the scalding to keep them white then drain them and put as much clarified sugar as we'll just cover them give them a boil and then squeeze the juice from an orange or lemon which you best approve of and when cold they may be served to table to make a compote of baked wardens bake your wardens in an earthen pot with a little claret, some spice, lemon peel and sugar when you use them peel off the skin and dress them in plates either whole or in halves then make a jelly of pippins sharpened well with the juice of lemons and pour it upon them when cold break the jelly with a spoon and it will look very agreeable upon the red pears end of section 8 section 9 of the complete confectioner by Hannah Glass this LibriVox recording is in the public domain fruit ices, cream ices, etc two ice currents take fair currents in bunches and have ready the white of an egg well beaten to froth dip them in, lay them abroad sift double refined sugar pretty thick over them and let them dry in a stove or oven to make orange and lemon ices take a high degree of clarified sugar in a pan then take three lemons or oranges pair very neat the outer rind without any of the white which is under it and drop it in the sugar where it must remain about one hour to let it take well the taste of it when that is done take the same three oranges or lemons which you have paired cut them through the middle and squeeze their juice into your sugar then pass the whole through a sieve into another pan and put this composition mixture from this last pan into the icing pot which is called Sabotier you may add, if you please the juice of three or four lemons to your orange ice it will fatten the sugar and make your ices more mellow the method of icing all sorts of liquid compositions when your composition is put in the Sabotier take some natural ice and put it in a mortar when it is reduced to a powder strew over it two or three handfuls of salt then take your piles put some pounded ice in the bottom and place your Sabotier in those piles which you fill up after with ice to bury the Sabotier in you must take care in the beginning to open your Sabotier in order not to let the sides freeze first and on the contrary detach with a pewter spoon all the flakes which stick to the sides in order to make it congeal equally all over in the pot then work them well or they are much more mellow by being well worked and their delicacy depends entirely upon it do not wait till they are thoroughly iced to begin to work them because they would become too hard and it is not possible to dissolve what is congealed in lumps or pieces when you see they are well congealed let them rest taking care for this time then there should be some which stick to the sides of the icing pot this will prevent them from melting and make them keep longer in a right degree of icing if your composition does not congeal so quickly as you wish through the melting of your pounded ice you may change that ice in the same manner as you put it before for as there is always a hole in the bottom of those piles you may let the water of your melted ice run off by taking out the stopper without disturbing the saboteer then fill your piles up again as you did before continuing rolling your saboteer till you see the composition is congealed to the point you wish the method of moulding ices in all sorts of fruits when your composition is perfectly congealed take a spoon and the moulds you want to make use of fill these well with your ices as expeditious as you can you must have besides, ready by you a pile with pounded natural ice and a great deal of salt there put your moulds in proportion as you fill them and cover them directly with pounded ice and salt continuing so doing to every mould you fill up till you have filled them all when that is done cover them quite and set them a full hour in that ice when you want to take off what is in your moulds take a pan of water and first wash well those moulds one after another to rub off all the salt which sticks round them then open your moulds and put their contents in a dish and send them up you may give to every one of your ices the very colour of the fruit they represent thus have your colour ready by you and with a very fine pencil point them quickly in which case they must likewise be served directly or at least you must put them in the cave your cave must have been set in a pile and prepared half an hour before you take your fruits from their moulds in that cave you are then to set them after they are coloured till the time comes of serving them your fruit is certainly much finer and takes more the downy look of the natural one to make apricot ice take very ripe apricots cut them very small in a sieve which place over a pan squeeze them well with a spoon through that sieve and after it is done add some clarified sugar to it take afterwards about 20 almonds from the stones of those apricots pound them very fine in a mortar moisten them with a little clear water when they are well pounded mix them with your apricots if you see your mixture is too thick squeeze in the juice of 3 or 4 lemons and a little water till you see it is neither too clear nor too thick then put it in the saboteur and proceed as before directed to make peach ices take very ripe peaches skin them neatly cut them in small bits and continue the same as directed for the apricots to make current ices take currents picked from their stalks and squeeze them through a sieve then take clarified sugar boil it to a very high degree add it to your current juice squeeze 4 lemons besides in it if you choose it will render them but the more mellow strain them through a sieve a second time and put them in the saboteur to make them congeal as directed for the lemons and proceed as with them to make raspberry ices take raspberries which squeeze through a sieve and proceed as before directed for the current ices strawberries may be iced in the same manner to make pear ices take pears cut them in halves in a pan of water which set on the fire and boil as it were for stewing or compotes when you see they are well done take out the cores and the skin off cut them very small in a pan add some of the first degree of clarified sugar to them and a little water give the whole together another boiling till it is well reduced into a pulp then take them off from the fire and put them in a sieve through which squeeze them well when that is done if your pulp is too thick add the juice of 4 lemons some water and a little more sugar if they should not be sweet enough then pass them a second time through the sieve and put them in the saboteur to make them congeal to make sedra ices take a piece of loaf sugar and have a fresh and sound sedra which rasp or grate over a paper on that piece of sugar scraping with a knife what sticks upon the sugar of the skin of the sedra when you have thus taken off or leaves a perforcy or outer rind of your sedra by rasping or grating it on the sugar take a little clarified sugar boiled very fine which add to the raspings or gratings of the sedra with what quantity of juice of lemons you think requisite for the quantity of ices you are willing to make and a little water pass the whole through a sieve and put it in the saboteur to congeal as directed before note you may likewise make sedra ices with preserved sedra which in that case you are 2 pound in a mortar and boil it in a very light sugar then proceed afterwards just as directed for the other sedra to make muscadine ices take one ounce of elderflower which put in a saboteur pour upon it about half a pint of boiling water cover your saboteur with its lid thus let it draw about half an hour make then a composition precisely as it were to make a plain lemon ices to that composition add your infusion of elderflower pass the whole through a sieve and put it in the saboteur to congeal as has been explained note you may make this sort of ices with white currants when it is the season proceed as it were to make a plain currant ices and adding to it afterwards your infusion of elderflower etc to make ananna or pine apple ices take any quantity of ananas take the superficy of their skin cut them small and pound them in a mortar when they are well pounded squeeze them in a cloth to get all the juice pound them several times because in pounding them you draw nothing more than their juice and you cannot make them soft and liquid enough to make them all pass through the cloth which obliges you to put them several times to the mortar when that is done squeeze in it the juice of four lemons or more if you choose put your clarified sugar to it boiled very little if your composition is too thick you may add a little water to it then pass the whole through a sieve to make them congeal as directed before to make barberry ices take barberries which put in a pan without water set it over a very gentle fire stirring them continually when they are warm take them off and pass them through a sieve in a pan add clarified sugar to that liquor and if it proves too thick you may put some water to it but no lemon juice by any means for the barberries are acid enough of themselves without increasing that acid with the addition of the lemon therefore put your composition as above in your saboteur to congeal according to the former directions to make grape ices take ripe grapes picked from their stalks pass them through a sieve mix your sugar with the juice of four lemons squeezed in it pass the whole together a second time through a sieve and put it afterwards in the saboteur to congeal to make ices of violets, jessamins and orange flowers pound a handful of violets and pour about a pint of hot water upon them let them infuse about an hour put half a pound of sugar when it is properly dissolved sift them through a napkin the jessamine is done after the same manner to make the liquid taste more of the different flowers pour it several times from one pan into another before sifting the same with the orange flowers those different infusions are also mixed with cream instead of water to make ices with preserved fruit there are none of the ices which we have directed how to make with fresh gathered fruit but may be made also with that same sort of fruit after it has been preserved in which case you are to proceed thus take your preserve of whatever sort it is put it in a basin mash it well and dissolve it as much as possible with a spoon take some lemon juice and a little water to bring it to a pulp pass it through a sieve should they be not sweet enough add as much clarified sugar as is required and when you have passed them through your sieve put them in your saboteurs and make them congeal by working as for the other to make pistachio nut cream ices take any quantity of cream in a pan put in another four yolks of eggs for every pint of cream you are to employ pound your pistachio nuts very fine in a mortar and put them in the pan where you dropped your yolks of eggs mix the whole together add some pounded loaf sugar to it keep stirring it continually then add your cream by little and little stirring and turning it until the whole is mixed properly together then set your pan over the fire and keep stirring it with a wooden spoon till you see your composition is near boiling when take it off immediately for from the moment you set your composition over the fire till that it offers to boil it has a sufficient time to incorporate well and thicken sufficiently without need of boiling and should you let it boil you would risk the turning your cream into whey on account of the yolks of eggs which would do too much take great care likewise your cream is fresh and sweet for otherwise as soon as it is warm it will turn into curds and whey therefore take care to stir it continually from the time you set it on the fire till you take it off after which pour it into a sieve and pass it into a pan then put it in the saboteur to make it congeal after the usual manner to make chocolate cream ices take any quantity of chocolate melt it over the fire in a small pan when melted pour it into that where you are to make your cream break your yolks of eggs into it and proceed as directed for the pistachio nuts to make coffee cream ices take about a pint of coffee made with water and rather strong when settled draw it clear and add half a pound of sugar set it on the fire and let it boil till your sugar is at a very high degree take it off from the fire and let it cool after which make your cream as before directed with the yolks of eggs and put your coffee in then proceed as usual to make ananna or pineapple cream ices take any quantity of ananas as directed for the ices of ananas when it is so far ready only add your cream to it pass the hole through a sieve and put it in the saboteur to congeal as usual to make white coffee cream ices prepare your cream as before explained then take a quarter of a pound of coffee in grain which roast as it were to make coffee with water when roasted put it in a fine cloth which tie it as a bag and throw it quite hot in your cream then set it on the fire keeping stirring till it is near boiling take it off pass it in a sieve etc and proceed as before to make strawberry cream ices take any quantity of strawberries squeeze them through a sieve then mix your cream and sugar boil it and repass the hole through the sieve again and proceed as usual to make apricot cream ices take any quantity of apricots squeeze them through a sieve join what quantity of cream and sugar you want to make and proceed as for the strawberries raspberries may be iced in the same manner to make current cream ices take currents ready picked from their stalks squeeze them through a sieve add your cream and sugar and proceed as directed for the strawberries peaches and cherries may also be done in this way first pairing the peaches and taking out the stones of the cherries observations on ices made with ripe fruits the ices which we have just given directions for must first be made as it were for making them with the fruit alone when they are so far prepared join your cream cold to them such as you buy it for should you put it warm as generally most of these fruits are acid you would run the risk of making your cream turn directly into curds and whey therefore put your cream cold to your fruit and if you want to have your ices very mellow you must make use of the double cream which is thicker you may also make all those sorts of ices with the preserved fruit of each kind as observed in the directions for the ices made with preserved fruits by putting your preserves in a basin and mashing them well with a spoon with the juice of four lemons and the cream instead of water for it is usual always to add some water to your fruit besides the lemon juice in order to render them more fluid now instead of that little water put your cream to any quantity you please without bounds to make brown bread cream ices take any quantity of cream prepare it as before boiling it alone with yolks of eggs and the sugar pass it through a sieve and put it in the saboteur when your cream begins to congeal have crumbs of brown bread which must be grated and sifted as fine as powder put it in the saboteur and continue to work your cream for congealing you may also make this sort of cream with plain cream alone without yolks of eggs or boiling adding only a proper quantity of powdered loaf sugar and set it to congeal and when it begins to ice then put your sifted crumbs of brown bread but take care to have it very finely sifted for it renders it infinitely more agreeable to the mouth for icing you may refer to the receipt for icing all sorts of liquid compositions to make royal cream ices take any quantity of cream join to it yolks of eggs in proper proportion as observed for the pistachio nuts put a little half pounded coriander cinnamon, orange or lemon peel add some pounded loaf sugar and set it on the fire as before till it is nearly upon boiling then pass it through the sieve and set it to ice to make tea cream ices make tea very strong in a teapot have your cream ready mixed with the proper quantity of sugar and yolks of eggs pass your cream through a sieve pass likewise your tea over it mix the whole well with a spoon after which put it in the saboteer and make it congeal according to the usual method end of section 9 section 10 of the complete confectioner by Hannah Glass this LibriVox recording is in the public domain marmalades, jellies, jams, etc to make orange and lemon marmalade take six oranges grate two of the rinds of them upon a grater then wet them all and pick out the flesh from the skin and seeds put to it the grated rind and about half a pint of pippin jelly take the same weight of sugar as you have of the meat so mingled boil your sugar till it blows very strong then put in the meat and boil all very quick till it becomes a jelly which you will perceive by dipping the scumma and holding it up to drain if it be jelly it will break from the scumma in flakes and if not it will run off in little streams when it is a good jelly put it into your glasses or pots note if you find this composition too sweet you may in boiling add more juice of oranges the different quickness they have makes it difficult to prescribe to make apricot marmalade take any quantity of apricots peel them well cut them very small into a pan put to them the same weight of pounded and sifted sugar as you have of the apricots and set them over the fire in a large pan keep stirring them till they are done sufficient which you may know by the same method as directed for the orange and lemon marmalade another way to make apricot marmalade take any quantity of apricots cut them very small in a pan without peeling weigh in proportion three quarters of a pound of clarified sugar to every pound of apricots put the sugar alone on the fire and boil it breaking high then take it off and put your apricots in set your pan again on the fire and boil them along with the sugar till they come to the point specified above trying the same experiment note you may do this marmalade again differently if you want to make it still finer which is to take your apricots rather less ripe stirring it continually to mix them both well together then put it in pots for use observing to let it be cold before you cover it pairs may be done in the same manner to make peach marmalade take any quantity of peaches cut them small put them in a pan with a little water boil them till they are well mashed keep stirring continually then take them off and pass them through a sieve when sifted, weigh them and put them in the pan and boil them again till the water they give is a little reduced when so, weigh an equal quantity of sugar as you had of peaches and put it by little and little into your pan and continue as directed for the apricot marmalade you may use either clarified or pounded loaf sugar then proceed with your peaches as directed for the apricots to make raspberry marmalade take any quantity of raspberries pass them through a sieve and continue precisely as with the peach marmalade strawberries may be done exactly in the same manner to make orange flower marmalade after your flowers are properly picked scold them near the space of a minute then put them in water that has had a little alum dissolved in it boil some other water in which squeeze near half the juice of a small lemon and boil the flowers in it till they feel tender then put them into fresh water again with the same quantity of lemon juice and drain them in a napkin to pound mix two pounds of this marmalade with five pounds of sugar of the first degree or any quantity in proportion and finish as usual to make red quince marmalade take quince's that are full ripe pair them, cut them in quarters and core them put them in a saucepan cover them with the pairings boil the saucepan almost full of spring water cover it close and stew them gently till they are quite soft and of a deep pink colour then pick out the quince's from the pairings and beat them to a pulp in a mortar take their weight in loaf sugar put in as much of the water they were boiled in as will dissolve it and boil and skim it well put in your quince's boil them gently three quarters of an hour keep stirring them all the time or it will stick to the pan and burn put it into flat pots and when cold, tie it down close to make white quince marmalade to a pound and a half of quince's take a pound of double refined sugar make it into a syrup, boil it high pair and slice the fruit and boil it quick when it begins to look clear pour in half a pint of juice of quince or if quince's are scarce, pippins boil it till thick take off the scum with a paper to make a juice pair the quince's or pippins cut them from the core beat them in a stone mortar strain the juice through a thin cloth to every half pint put more than a pound of sugar let it stand at least four hours before it is used to make transparent marmalade pick out some very pale civil oranges cut them in quarters take out the pulp and put it into a basin pick the skins and seeds out put the peels in a little salt and water and let them stand all night boil them in a good quantity of spring water till they are tender then cut them in very thin slices and put them to the pulp to every pound of marmalade put a pound and a half of double refined sugar beat fine boil them together gently for twenty minutes if it is not clear and transparent boil it five or six minutes longer keep stirring it gently all the time and take care you do not break the slices when it is cold put it into jelly or sweetmeat glasses tie them down with brandy papers they are pretty for a dessert of any kind to make apple marmalade scald some apples in water and when tender drain through a sieve put three quarters of a pound of sugar to a pound of apples put them into the preserving pan and let them simmer over a gentle fire keep skimming them all the time when they are of a proper thickness put them into pots or glasses jellies, jams, etc it is necessary to observe that as these jellies are directed to be done much in the same manner as the marmalades that a material difference must be observed in sifting the different sorts of fruits not to force anything but the juices which make the jellies clearer and ought for that purpose to be strained in linen cloth to make orange flowers into jelly after they are preserved as has been directed you must clarify a little more sugar with orange flower water and make a jelly of codlings which, when ready put in the flowers, syrup and all give them a boil, scum them and put them into your glasses or pots to make quince jelly take a quantity of spring water and put into it as many quince's thin sliced with cores and pairings as will conveniently boil to be tender also a large handful of heartshawn boil it very fast keeping it stirring when it is strong enough tasted rub it through a jelly bag this is best when it looks pure white let your heartshawn be boiled first add this to your syrup and boil it all together to make apricot jelly you must keep them in the syrup till codlings are pretty well grown taking care to visit them sometimes that they do not sour which if they do the syrup will be lost by reason it will become muddy and then you will be obliged to make your jelly with all fresh sugar which will be too sweet but when codlings are of an indifferent bigness draw a jelly from them as we have directed from pippins then drain the apricots from the syrup boil it and strain it through your straining bags then boil some sugar proportionably to the quantity of apricots you designed to put up till it blows then put in the jelly and boil it a little with the sugar then put in the syrup and the apricots and give them all a boil together till you find the syrup will become a jelly then remove them from the fire scum them well and put them into your pots or glasses observing as they cool if they be regular in the glasses to sink and disperse them to a proper distance and when quite cold to cover them up to put peach chips in jelly draw a jelly from codlings and when they are boiled enough take as much jelly as sugar boil the sugar to blow very strong then put in the jelly give it a boil and put it to the chips give all a boil scum them and put them into your glasses to put bell grapes in jelly take the long large bell or rouson grapes pick the stalks off, stone them and put them into boiling water give them a thorough scald take them from the fire and cover them down close so that no steam can come out then set them upon a very gentle fire so as not to boil for two or three hours take them out, put them into clarified sugar boil till it blows very strong as much as will a little more than cover them and give them all a good boil scum them, boil a little more sugar to blow very strong take as much plum jelly as sugar and give all a boil then add the grapes to it give them a boil together scum them well and put them up into your pots or glasses to make current jelly wash your currents well put them into a pan and mash them then put in a little water boil them to a mummy screw it on a sieve and press out all the juice of which make your jelly to make white current jelly wash your currents as before strain them carefully mash them and set them on a slow fire put in a little water and boil it well after which take them out and proceed as before another way to make white current jelly strip off the currents put them into a jug set the jug in a kettle of water let it boil an hour throw your currents and juice into a fine lawn sieve press out all the juice and to every point of juice put a pound of double refined sugar put them in your preserving pan set it over a charcoal fire and keep it stirring till it is a jelly which you will know by taking a little out to cool observe to take off the scum as it rises and when it is jellied and very clear pour it into glasses when cold cut round pieces of paper that will just cover the jelly dipped in brandy put white paper over the glasses twisted round the top and prick the paper full of holes with a pin to make black current jelly make it the same way as the red current jelly with this difference make it with the coarsest lump sugar note this jelly is never used in a dessert but it is a very good thing for a sore throat to make carves foot jelly take a set of carves feet take the long bone out split the foot and take out the fat boil these in six quarts of water with half a pound of heartshorn till it be a jelly which you may know by cooling a little in a plate then strain it off and scum the fat off beat the whites of 12 eggs add as much sugar as will sweeten it the juice of six lemons some mace a little orange flower water and a pint of white wine stir this all together over a stove till it boils it must not be too sweet nor too sharp strain it through a jelly bag and let it run on lemon peel to give it a colour to make apple jelly pair the softer sort of pleasant-tasted apples slice them very thin take out the cores and seeds boil a pound of them in a quart of water till a fourth part be consumed strain it well and to every pint and a half put three quarters of a pound of sugar with a little mace or cinnamon and boil it up to a thickness adding a quarter of a pound of icing glass then strain it again and again and put it up for use to make raspberry jelly make it the same way as the redcurrant jelly only put one half currants and one half raspberries to make orange jelly boil in two quarts of spring water one ounce of icing glass till it is dissolved strain it off and let it stand till it is cold pair very thin the rinds of four sevill oranges take the juice of six or seven let them stand twelve or fourteen hours strain the liquor off mix the juice with the jelly sweeten it with double refined sugar put in a little spice such as cloves and mace and put some nutmeg beat the whites of five or six eggs to a froth put it to the rest boil it five or six minutes run it through a jelly bag several times till it is clear to make heart-shawn jelly take half a pound of heart-shawn shavings and an ounce of icing glass cut the icing glass to pieces put it and the shavings to five pints of spring water boil it to less than a quart over a gentle fire strain it and let it stand all night to settle melt the jelly squeeze in two lemons and a half the whites of seven eggs half a pint of white mountain wine and sweeten it to your taste with double refined sugar then put all these ingredients upon the fire stir it pretty much till it boils but boil it very little stir it well together scum it through a jelly bag but let it not run very fast if it does put it in again put lemon peel into the glasses this quantity will make a dozen and a half of glasses another way to make heart-shawn jelly put two quarts of water into a clean pan with half a pound of heart-shawn shavings let it simmer till near one half is reduced strain it off then put in the peel of four oranges and two lemons paired very thin boil them five minutes put to it the juice of the before mentioned lemons and oranges with about ten ounces of double refined sugar beat the whites of six eggs to a froth mix them carefully with your jelly that you do not poach the eggs just let it boil up and run it through a jelly bag till it is clear note when it is made for sick persons only sweeten it and tincture it with saffron to make icing glass jelly boil an ounce of icing glass and a quarter of an ounce of cloves in a quarter of water till it is reduced to a pint then strain it over some sugar jelly for moulds as this jelly requires to be a great deal stronger than for glasses it will of course be necessary to have stronger things to make it with you must take two calves feet and one neat foot take out the large bones and cut them in small pieces if you do not like the neat foot use two ounces of icing glass in its stead put it into a large saucepan or pot with a gallon of water, a lemon peel cut thin and a stick of cinnamon boil it gently till it is reduced to three pints or less as it boils skim it well try it with a spoon as before directed and if you find it strong enough strain it off and let it settle half an hour then skim the top and pour it from the setlings into a stupan put in half a pint of white wine sweeten it with loaf sugar squeeze six lemons straining the juice to keep out the seeds and put it in with a little lemon peel if you want it quite clear and bright do not put in any saffron if you want it an amber colour put in a little saffron if for very high colour bruise a little cochineal and put in boil it up for ten minutes beat the whites of ten eggs up to a high froth mix them with the jelly well together and boil it up for ten minutes then take it off the fire cover it and let it stand for five minutes have your bag ready with the bowl under pour your jelly in gently and as it runs through pour it into the bag again till it is as bright as you want it when it has all run through fill your moulds and let it stand till it is cold then loosen the sides with your fingers dip the mould into warm water and turn it out onto your dish to make green melon jelly make a pint of blamange and colour it of a light green with the juice of spinach put it into a melon mould and when it is cold turn it out have a deep mould with a little jelly at the bottom quite cold put your melon in and put in some jelly blood warm let it be cold then fill up your mould with more blood warm jelly let it stand all night and the next morning turn it into a dish and garnish it with sweetmeats, flowers or anything you fancy to put fruit in jelly have a plain mould either long or round about three inches deep have some mould jelly made as directed and put some at the bottom of the mould about a quarter of an inch thick let it be cold then put in ripe peaches, grapes or any sort of ripe fruit preserved fruit or china oranges cut in quarters or in any shape you fancy put in a little jelly blood warm and let it stand till it is cold to fasten your fruit in its place otherwise it will rise up then fill up your mould with blood warm jelly let it stand till it is thoroughly cold then turn it into a dish and garnish it to your fancy look extremely well in a dish if you are careful to put in your fruit neatly to show it to advantage and your jelly very clear as a little experience will teach you to make apricot jam pair the apricots, take out the stones break them, take out the kernels and blanch them then to every pound of apricot boil one pound of sugar till it blows very strong put in the apricots and boil them very brisk till they are all broke take them off, bruise them well put in the kernels and stir them all together over the fire then fill your pots or glasses with them another way to make apricot jam provide some rich apricots cut them in thin pieces and infuse them in an earthen pot till they are tender and dry put a pound of double refined sugar and three spoonfuls of water to every pound and a half of apricots then boil your sugar to a candy height and put it upon your apricots set them over a slow fire and stir them till they appear clear and thick but they must only simmer, not boil then put them in your glasses to make raspberry jam press out the water from the raspberries and to every pound of raspberries take one pound of sugar first dry the raspberries in a pan over the fire but keep them stirring lest they burn put in your sugar incorporate them well together and fill your glasses or pots covering them with thin white paper close to the jam whilst it is hot when cold, tie them over with other paper another way to make raspberry jam take a quart of current jelly and two quarts of ripe but sound raspberries bruise them well together over a slow fire boil it six or seven minutes keep stirring all the time pour it in your galley pots and paper it as you do the current jelly to make a fine raspberry jam take raspberries full ripe bruise them fine add a gel of the juice of current pass them through a sieve to take out all the seeds to every pound of pulp put a pound of double refined sugar pounded boil it to a proper thickness pour it into small pots or glasses paper it down according to the receipt for current jelly and keep it in a dry place if you perceive it does not keep boil it again and add some more sugar to it another way to make a fine raspberry jam gather your raspberries when they are ripe and dry pick them very carefully from the stalks and dead ones crush them in a bowl with a silver or wooden spoon pewter is apt to turn them to a purple colour as soon as you have crushed them strew in their weight of loaf sugar and half their own weight of current juice baked and strained as for jelly then set them over a clear slow fire boil them half an hour skim them well and keep stirring them at the time put them into pots or glasses with brandy papers over them and keep them for use note as soon as you have got your berries strew in your sugar do not let them stand long before you boil them it will preserve their flavour to make cherry jam take six pounds of cherries stone them into four pounds of loaf sugar and let them stand till the sugar is dissolved then set them on the fire to boil very fast when you find them stiff shake in half a pound of sugar more let it boil till it comes clear from the bottom of your preserving pan and then it is enough another way to make cherry jam stone some cherries, boil them well and break them take them off the fire let the juice run from them two three pounds of cherries boil together half a pint of red current juice and half a pound of loaf sugar put in the cherries as they boil sift in three quarters of a pound of sugar boil the cherries very fast for more than half an hour when cold put on brandy paper to make strawberry jam take some of the finest scarlet strawberries gathered when they are full ripe pick them from the stalks put some juice of strawberries to them beat and sift their weight in double refined sugar and strew it over them put them into a preserving pan set them over a slow fire boil them twenty minutes and skim them then put them in glasses when cold put brandy paper on them to make black current jam gather your currents when they are full ripe on a dry day pick them from the stalks then bruise them well in a bowl and to every pound of currents put a pound of double refined sugar beaten and sifted put them into a preserving pan boil them half an hour skim and keep them stirring all the time then put them into pots when cold put brandy paper over and tie white paper over all to make green gooseberry jam before they are ripe but at the full growth take the green gooseberries pick out the seeds green them as directed for green hops then drain them beat them in a mortar with their weight of sugar take a pint of gooseberries boil them in a pint of water then squeeze them and to every half pint of liquor put three quarters of a pound of loaf sugar boil and skim it well throw in your gooseberries let them boil till thick, green and clear put in glasses to use them another way to make green gooseberry jam take some large full grown green gooseberries but not too ripe cut them in half take out the seeds put them in a pan of cold spring water lay some vine leaves at the bottom then some gooseberries then vine leaves till the fruit is in the pan cover it very close that no steam can evaporate then set them on a very slow fire when they are scalding hot take them off then set them on and take them off again they must be done so till they are of a good green lay them on a sieve to drain beat them in a marble mortar with their weight in sugar then take a quart of water and a quart of gooseberries boil them to a mash squeeze them to every point of this liquor put a pound of fine loaf sugar boil and skim it then put in the green gooseberries let them boil till they are thick and clear and of a good green end of section 10 section 11 of the complete confectioner by Hannah Glass this LibriVox recording is in the public domain cakes, puffs, biscuits etc part 1 always have everything in readiness before you begin to make any kind of cakes then beat your eggs well and never leave them till they are finished as by that means your cakes will not be so light when you put butter in your cakes be particularly careful in beating it otherwise you will have a fine cream before you put in the sugar otherwise double the beating will not have so good an effect rice cakes, seed cakes or plum cakes are best baked in wooden garths for when they are baked in pots or tins the outsides of the cakes are burned and they are so confined that the heat cannot penetrate into the middle of the tinders it's rising to make orange cakes take six sevil oranges grate the rinds of two of them then cut off the rinds of all six to the juice and boil them in water till very tender squeeze out all the water you can and beat them to a paste in a marble mortar rub it through a hair sieve and what will not easily rub through must be beaten again till it will cut two pieces the insides of your oranges and rub as much of them through as you possibly can then boil about six or eight pipins as in much water as will almost cover them boil them to a paste and rub it through a sieve to the rest put all in a pan together and give them a thorough heat till they are well mingled then to every pound of this paste take one pound and a quarter of loaf sugar clarify the sugar and boil it to the crick put in your paste and the grated peel and stir it all together over a slow fire till it is well mixed and the sugar all melted then with a spoon fill your round tin molds and set them in a warm stove to dry when dry on the tops turn them on sieves to dry on the other side and when quite dry box them up another way to make orange cakes take what quantity you please of Seville oranges that have good rinds quarter them and boil them in two or three waters till they are tender and the bitterness is gone off skin them and lay them on a clean napkin to dry take all the skins and seeds out of the pulp with a knife shred the peels fine put them to the pulp weigh them and put rather more than their way to find sugar into a tossing pan with just as much water as will dissolve it boil it till it becomes a perfect sugar and then by degrees put in your orange peels and pulp stir them well before you set them on the fire boil it very gently till it looks clear and thick and then put them into flat bottom glasses set them in a stove and keep them in a constant and moderate heat and when they are candied on the top turn them out upon glasses to make orange clear cakes take the best pippins pair them into as much water as will cover them and boil them to a mash then press out the jelly upon a sieve and strain it through a bag adding juice of oranges to give it an agreeable taste to every pound of jelly take one pound and a quarter of loaf sugar boil it till it cracks and then put in the jelly and the rind of a grated orange or two stir it up gently over a slow fire till all is incorporated together then take it off and fill your clear cake glasses once scum arises on the top you must carefully take off before they are cold then put them into a stove and when you find them begin to crust upon the upper side turn them out upon squares of glasses and put them to dry again when they begin to have a tender candy cut them into quarters or what pieces you please and let them dry till hard then turn them on sieves and when thorough dry put them in your boxes as they begin to sweat in the box shift them from time to time and it will be requisite to put no more than one row in a box at the beginning till they do not sweat lemon colour cakes are made with lemons as these to make lemon cakes take six thick rind lemons grate two of them then pair off all the yellow peel and strip the white to the juice which white boil till tender make a paste exactly as for orange cakes another way to make lemon cakes take the best coloured lemons scrape out the blacks and grate off the peel clean put the peel into a strainer wet what sugar you think will serve and boil it to a candy height then take it off and put in your lemon peel when it boils take it off squeeze in a little lemon juice and drop them on buttered plates or papers you may put in musk or amber grease if you please to make gooseberry clear cakes gooseberry clear cakes may be made after the same manner as the paste with this difference only strain the jelly through the bag before you weigh it for use to make raspberry cakes to make raspberry cakes pick all the grubs and spotted raspberries away then bruise the rest and put them on a hair sieve over an earthen pan put on them a board and weight to press out all the water you can then put the paste into your preserving pan and dry it over the fire till you perceive no moisture left in it stirring it all the time it is on the fire to keep it from burning weigh it and to every pound take one pound and two ounces of sugar beat to a fine powder and put it in by degrees when all is in put it on the fire and incorporate them well together take them from the fire scrape all to one side of the pan let it cool a little then put it into your molds when quite cold put them into your stove without dusting them and dry it as other paste note you must take particular care that your paste does not boil after your sugar is in for if it does it will grow greasy to make raspberry clear cakes take two quarts of ripe gooseberries or white currants and one quart of red raspberries put them into a stone jug and stop them close put it into a pot of cold water as much as will cover the neck of the jug boil them in that water till it comes to a paste then turn them out in a hair sieve placed over a pan press out all the jelly and strain it through the jelly bag take 20 ounces of double refined sugar and boil it till it will crack in the water take it from the fire put in your jelly and stir it over a slow fire till all the sugar is melted give it a good heat till all is incorporated take it from the fire and then, take the gel and fill it well and fill your cake glasses take off what scum is on them and put them into the stove to dry observing the method directed before for clear cakes note in filling out your clear cakes and clear pastes you must be as expeditious as possible for if it cools it will be a jelly before you can get it into them White raspberry clear cakes are made after the same manner, only mixing white raspberries with the gooseberries in the infusion. Another way to make raspberry clear cakes. Take two quarts of gooseberries and two quarts of red raspberries. Put them in a pan with about a pint and a half of water. Boil them over a quick fire to a mummy. Throw them upon an earthen pan. Place out all the juice, then take that juice and boil it in another quart of raspberries. Throw them on a sieve and rub all through the sieve that you can. Then put in the seeds and weigh the paste. To every pound, take 20 ounces of fine loaf sugar boiled. When clarified till it cracks, remove it from the fire, put in your paste, mix it well and set it over a slow fire, stirring it till all the sugar is melted and you find it is become a jelly. Take it from the fire and fill your pots or glasses whilst very hot. Scum them and put them into the stove, observing when cold, to dry them as you do other pastes. To make raspberry biscuits. Place out the juice and dry the paste a little over the fire. Then rub all the pulp through a sieve and weigh them. To every pound take 18 ounces of sugar sifted very fine and the whites of four eggs. Put all in the pan together and with a whisk beat it till it is very stiff so that you may lay it in pretty high drops and when it is so beaten drop it in what form you please on the glazed sides of cards, paper being too thin. If it be difficult to get them off, dust them a little with very fine sugar and put them into a very warm stove to dry. When they are dry enough they will come easily from the cards but while soft they will not stir. Then take and turn them on a sieve, let them remain a day or two in the stove then pack them up in your box and they will, in a dry place, keep all the year without shifting them. To make a bride cake. Take four pounds of fine flour well dried, four pounds of fresh butter, two pounds of loaf sugar, pound and sift fine a quarter of an ounce of mace and the same quantity of nut megs. To every pound of flour put eight eggs, wash and pick four pounds of currants and dry them before the fire. Blanch a pound of sweet almonds and cut them lengthways very thin, a pound of citron, a pound of candied orange, a pound of candied lemon and half a pint of brandy. First work the butter with your hand to a cream then beat in your sugar a quarter of an hour, beat the whites of your eggs to a very strong froth, mix them with your sugar and butter. Beat the yolks half an hour at least and mix them with your cake. Then put in your flour, mace and nutmeg. Keep beating it till the oven is ready. Put in your brandy and beat the currants and almonds lightly in. Tie three sheets of paper around the bottom of your hoop to keep it from running out. Rub it well with butter. Put in your cake and the sweet meats in three layers with cake betwixt every layer. After it is risen and coloured cover it with paper before your oven is stopped up. It will take another three hours baking. Another way to make a bread cake. Wash and rub seven pounds of currants, place them before the fire. Take four pounds of flour, dry and sift it, six pounds of fresh butter which work with your hand till it comes to a cream, two pounds of loaf sugar, beat and sifted fine, blanch two pounds of almonds, pound them fine, a quarter of an ounce of mace, cloves and cinnamon, three nutmegs and some ginger, half a pint of sack and the same quantity of brandy, sweet meats such as candied orange, lemon and citron. Put the butter well into a cream, then put in your sugar. Let the eggs which must be eight to every pound of flour be beat well and strained through a sieve. Put in your almonds, beat them well then put in the sack, brandy and spices. Shake the flour in by degrees. When your oven is ready put in your currants and sweet meats. Try a few sheets of paper at the bottom of the hoop but rub it well with butter. It will take four hours baking. To make almond icing for the bread cake, take the whites of six eggs, a pound and a half of double refined sugar, beat a pound of Jordan almonds, blanch them and pound them fine in a little rose water. Then mix all together and whisk it well for an hour or two, then lay it over your cake and put it in an oven. To make pomegranate clear cakes, draw your jelly as for the orange clear cakes, then boil it in the juice of two or three pomegranate seeds and all with the juice of an orange and lemon, the rind of each grated in, then strain it through a bag and to every pound of jelly put one pound and a quarter, boil till it cracks. To make the colour a fine red, put in a spoonful of cochineal, prepared as we have directed, then fill your glasses and order them as oranges. To make apricot cakes, take a pound of nice ripe grapes, scald and peel them, take out the stones then beat them in a mortar to a pulp, boil half a pound of double refined sugar with a spoonful of water and skim it well, then put in the pulp of your apricots and simmer them a quarter of an hour over a slow fire, stirring them softly all the time, then put it into shallow flat glasses and when cold turn them out on glass plates, put them in a stove and turn them once a day till they are dry. To make apricot clear cakes, first draw a jelly from codlings and in that jelly boil some very ripe apricots and press them upon a sieve over an earthen pan, then strain it through your jelly bag and to every pound of jelly take the light quantity of fine loaf sugar which clarify and boil till it cracks, then put in the jelly mix it well and give it a heat on the fire, scum it and fill your glasses. When drying order them as before directed. To make clear cakes of white pear plums, take the clearest of your plums, put them into a galley pot and boil them in a pot of boiling water till they are enough, let the clear part run from them and to every pound of liquor add as much sugar, boil to a candy height, then take it off, put the liquor to it and stir all together till it be thoroughly hot but not boiled, put it in glasses and dry them in a stove with a constant warm fire. To make almond cakes or figures, boil a pound of double refined sugar to a thin candy, blanch with orange flower water half a pound of Jordan almonds, add the juice of one lemon and the peels of two, grated to the juice, first boil your sugar and almonds together stirring it till the sugar is boiled to a proper height, put in the lemon juice, stir it well together over a slow fire taking care it does not boil after the juice is in, take this into cakes or what form or shape you please, either gilt or plain, another way to make almond cakes or figures, take two ounces of bitter and one pound of sweet almonds blanched and beat with a little rose or orange flower water and the white of an egg, half a pound of sifted loaf sugar, eight yolks and three whites of eggs, the juice of half a lemon, the rind, grated, bake it either in one large pan or small pans. To make almond loaves, beat a pound of almonds very fine, mix them well with three quarters of a pound of sifted sugar, set them over the fire, keep them stirring till they are stiff and put in the rind of a lemon, grated very fine, make them up in little loaves, shape them well in the whites of eggs, beat to a very stiff broth that the eggs may hang about them, then put them in a pan with a pound of fine sifted sugar, divide them if they stick together and add more sugar till they begin to be smooth and dry and when you put them on papers to bake, shake them in a pan that is just wet with white of eggs to make them have a gloss, bake them after biscuits on papers and tin plates. To make little candied cakes, take double refined sugar finely said, about a silver ladle full, wet it no more then we'll make it boiled to a candy height and put in what flowers you please, strew some sugar upon them, glass drop them upon white paper and take them off hot to avoid their sticking. To make a great rich cake, take a peck of flour well dried, an ounce of nutmeg and as much cinnamon, beat the spice well, mix them with your flour, a pound and a half of sugar, some salt, thirteen pounds of currants well washed, pecked and dried and three pounds of raisins stoned and cut into small pieces, mix all these well together, make five pints of cream almost scolding hot, put into it four pounds of fresh butter, beat the yolks of twenty eggs, three pints of good ale yeast, a pint of sack, a quarter of a pint of orange flower water, three grains of musk and six grains of amber grease, mix these together and stir them into your cream and butter, then mix all in the cake and set it for an hour before the fire to rise, before you put it in the hoop, mix your sweet meats in it, two pounds of citron and one pound of candied orange and lemon peel, cut in small pieces, bake it in a deep hoop, butter the sides, put two papers at the bottom, flour it and put it in your cake, it must have a quick oven and it will take four hours to bake it, when it is drawn I sit over the top and sides, take two pounds of double refined sugar, beat and sifted, the whites of six eggs beat to a froth with three or four spoonfuls of orange flower water and three grains of musk and amber grease, beat these in a stone mortar with a wood pestle till it be as white as snow and with a brush or bunch of feathers spread it all over the cake and put it into the oven to dry, taking care the oven does not discolor it, when it is cold paper it and it will keep good five or six weeks, another way to make a great rich cake, take four pounds of flour dried and sifted, seven pounds of currants clean washed, picked and rubbed well, six pounds of the best fresh butter, two pounds of Jordan almonds blanched and beat fine in a mortar with orange flower water and sack, then take four pounds of eggs, put half the whites away, three pounds of double refined sugar, beaten and sifted, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, the same of cinnamon and mace, three large nutmegs and a little ginger, all beat and fine and sifted, half a pint of sack, half a pint of good French brandy, some candied citron, orange and lemon peel to your liking and cut in slips, work the butter to a cream with your hands before any of your ingredients are put in, then put in the sugar and mix them well together, before you put in the eggs let them be well beaten and strained through a sieve, then work in your almonds, put in the eggs and beat all well together till they look white and thick, put in your sack, brandy and spices, shake your flour in by degrees and when the oven is ready put in your currants and sweetmeats and work it up well, put it into your hoop and bake it four hours in a quick oven, you must keep beating it with your hand all the while you are mixing it and when your currants are washed and cleaned put them before the fire to plump so that they may go warm into the cake, you may bake this quantity in two hoops if you please and when it is cold ice it, to make a plum cake, take two pounds ten ounces of the finest flour well dried, two pounds of currants weighed after picked, washed and dried, three nutmegs finely grated, three or four blades of large mace, ten cloves, a little cinnamon dried and beat fine, mix all these into the flour with two ounces of fine sugar, break into the basin the yolks of twelve eggs and the whites of six, beat into them a pint of very good yeast not bitter lest it spoil your cake, strain it through an hair sieve into the middle of the flour, set over the fire a pint of new cream and when it is boiled take it off, put in a pound of new butter cut in thin slices and as much saffron as will color the cream, when the butter is all melted and the cream not very hot pour into the flour as much as will make it like a pudding but not too thin never offer to mold it but lift it up with your fingers till your flour be wet all over, flour a cloth and lay it before the fire for a quarter of an hour to rise, put it into a frame well buttered and with a knife dipped in flour cut a crease across and prick it to the bottom with a bodkin and set it over a quick fire, set it in a quick oven bake it a full hour and draw it gently out of the oven for shaking any cake will make it heavy, you may if you please add six spoonfuls of sack, some amber grease, citron and lemon, ice it as soon as drawn and set it in a proper place, if you follow these directions it will eat as if a great quantity of almonds were in it, to make icing for the cake, take a pound of the best refined sugar, sift it through a lawn sieve, take the whites of two eggs well beat with four or five spoonfuls of orange flour water, put your sugar into the eggs and never leave beating them till they are as white as snow, cover your cake all over and stick some thin slices of citron if you put any in the cake, another way to make icing for the cake, take seven pounds of flour, two pounds and a half of butter and mix them, seven pounds of currents, two large nutmegs, half an ounce of mace and a quarter of an ounce of cloves all finally beat and grated, one pound of sugar and sixteen eggs leaving four whites, put in a full pint and a half of ale yeast, warm as much cream as you think will wet it and put sack to your cream to make it as thick as batter, beat also one pound of almonds with sack and orange flour water but do not let them be fine but grossly beat, put in a pound of candied orange, lemon and citron peel or more if you desire it very rich, mix all put it into your hoop with paste under it to save the bottom, to make a very fine rich plum cake, take four pounds of the finest flour well dried and sifted, six pounds of the best fresh butter, seven pounds of currents well washed, picked and rubbed very clean and dry, two pounds of Jordan almonds blanched and beat in a marble water with sack and orange flour water till they are very fine, take four pounds of eggs leave out half the whites and add three pounds of double refined sugar beat and sifted through a lawn serve with mace, cloves and cinnamon of each a quarter of an ounce, three large nutmegs beat fine a little ginger of sack and brandy half a pint each, sweet meats to your liking lemon and citron, take a large broad pan beat the butter to a cream before any of your ingredients go in, minding to beat it all one way or it will turn to oil, put in the sugar beat it well and work in your almonds, let your eggs be well beat, put in and beat all together till it looks white and thick, put in the brandy sack and spices and shake your flour in by degrees, when your oven is ready put in the currents and sweet meats and put into your hoop, it will take four hours baking in a quick oven, note as you mix it for the oven you must be mindful to keep beating it all the time with your hand and your currents as soon as cleaned must be put in a dish before the fire that they may be warm when mixed, the above quantity bakes best in two hoops, an ordinary plum cake take three pounds of flour, a little ale yeast, a pint of milk, a pound of sugar a pound of butter and a little allspice, make it into dough before you put in the plums and work in as many as you please. End of section 11