 What's up, folks? Welcome back to another 3D Hangouts. My name is Noel Revez. I'm a designer here at Adafruit. Joining me every week is my brother Pedro. Good morning, everybody. I'm Pedro S. Creative Tech here at Adafruit. And every week we're here to share 3D printed projects featuring electronics from Adafruit. That's right. This is a show we combine 3D printing and DIY electronics to make inspirational projects for you folks. Hello, everybody, hanging out in the Discord chat room throughout the show if you'd like to drop in any comments and questions and suggestions or random banter and stuff. Memes are great. You can do so by heading up the Discord server. We're hanging out there right now in the live broadcast chat room. So if you are new to Discord and you want to invite URL to that, you can use discord.gg slash Adafruit. That gives you an invite code to the lovely community of many thousands of people. And we appreciate everybody tuning in today. 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As you were saying before, nice banters going on. Mr. Certainly Bruce was asking for suggestions on a adjustable Husky desk. Let me go post some links on your favorite adjustable desks. Yes, good. Good, that's a great topic. And let's go ahead and jump into this week's Learn Guide. Yay, this week's Learn Guide. So last week was, it got published a little bit after the show. So we get to kind of walk through it this week. So might have another one that gets posted later today. Yeah, maybe we'll see. We'll see that schedule going on now. So here it is. The Fun House IoT Fumic Extractor and Error Quality Sensor. This was a collab project with Liz Clark. It was her idea. And she wrote the code for it. And I got to work on the 3D printed enclosure for it. And we tag-teamed on the Learn Guide. It's a chunky Learn Guide. Lots of information here. So get the side panel of all the different sections for this. Super useful we've been using this in all of our soldering projects. Sure, it's a great, big build. It's super smart. You can, it's modular, so you could customize it to do whatever type of thing you want. It's using STEMQT, so you can just play around with different sensors if you want to do a different type of data logging. It's a really good use of display I.O. Playing around with different fonts and different bitmap images. There's a lot going on. Lots of fun layers to this. And of course, you got the IoT layer. You can log your data and visualize it with a line chart in Adafruit I.O. And one of the coolest things that people were commenting on the video is having the ability to have it react to different sensory inputs, like light or humidity. And you would have that, yes, part of the sensing of the CO2 and the solder fumes. Let's go ahead and take a moment to adjust your camera because I completely forgot to do so. Yeah, it's going to take a minute. Well, I kind of need to show this shot. So bear with us while we adjust our lovely. Yeah, there's two layers of this. There's two. See that one there and that one there? Yeah, that's one. Ultimate flexibility. We need a cam for the cam to show what's crazy amount in contraption. So yeah, this is a knock to a fan. It is controlled through PWM. That means you can control the speed of the fan and it is mapped to the air quality sensor. So this is the EMC 2101. This is an I squared C. There's a STEMI QT breakout for controlling a fan over PWM. So you got your daisy chainable STEMI QT connectors. And right here, this is where the secret sauce is. There is a little fan, it's a mini five-volt fan. It's in front of the SPG 30. That's an air quality sensor that can sense all sorts of stuff like mox and gas, CO2 and TVOC. So it can do lots of different things. And as we were learning about it, we figured we need a way to direct the solder fumes to the sensor without it being displaced by a bigger fan in the back of it. So we had that engineering challenge and we figured, hey, we need to put a fan in front of it. A fan for your fan, that means it's overly complicated already as it is. So that's the knock to a fan right there in the back. It is a really silent, really high quality fan. It's only a couple, like 20 bucks or so, but it's awesome that it can be controlled over PWM. So you can do all sorts of fun stuff with it. Change the speeds and whatnot. So here is the Fun House. The Fun House is the brains of this project. It has all of the built-in goodies that make these projects possible. It's got a built-in TFT display, buttons, cap touch, Neopixels, additional ports for a PIR sensor. It has a slider thing here. There's so much stuff to it. We're barely using 10% of the Fun House. Wow, it'd be awesome to use the slider to control the fan, the fan to control the speed of the fan. We all can do that too, totally. And there's built-in buzzers. You can have alerts, audio alerts, visual alerts, if you wanted to use the display, or the Neopixels. You have your I-Squared-C, your Stemicutee, breakout here, port, and then two additional, three additional ways. And you can actually power five-volt peripherals from any of these three ports, which is how we're able to power the five-volt minifan. And that was all the ports. Yeah. This is really, really awesome. I love the Fun House. It's such a gray board. It's got a built-in on-off switch. It even has built-in humidity and pressure things that we're not even using. And then we have USB-C or connector there. So very awesome. It is, if you don't know about the Fun House, check out the Learn Guides and stuff on the Fun House. But it is using the ESP32-S2, so that's how you're able to do Wi-Fi connection. Yeah. And the display is a 1.54 inch TFT with 240 by 240. So it's the, what would you call it, a retina display or something, high-dense display. So that's the spiel of it. We'll go and walk through the Learn Guide and just kind of pull out some things from it. But 3D printed enclosures, snap fits. They're all the hardware screws just secure all the pieces together. I left it open here so that folks can add on more stuff and it's relatively easy to make connections, disconnect stuff. But yeah, it is just secured to this little bracket and a little bit of a fun note. You can see that I've even angled it by 30 degrees so that it gives you a little bit of a better viewing angle when you look at it dead on. So it's not straight at you. Just one of the fun little design things that I think go a long way. Wonderful. And this is just a battery. You can have it powered with a five volt power supply, whether it's on a wall or a five volt battery bank. It's all good, whatever you want. Right now we're not reading any solder fumes because our air is pretty clean right now, so we're good. All right. Any questions so far? Let me jump in. I posted the video for both. Yeah, this is great. Liz and the video you made on the explanation of this. So a nice little walkthrough showing the IOT capabilities. Some nice lines, charts, graphs and map all of the air quality sensor data. Yeah, so check them out, please do so. Yeah, so all the parts are listed here. So if you want to check out any of the parts, the whole parts list is all listed here. The Noctua fan is probably the only part that's sort of outside of Adafruit, so you want to pick that up. You can get it on Amazon or search your favorite online supplier for a Noctua fan. It is the 140 millimeter style. And there's lots of different styles of Noctua fans. You got to make sure this one is five volts because there's a lot out there. There are like 12 volts for PCs and stuff. So yeah, we even stock the carbon filter, which is really great, oddly enough, not oddly enough, but thankful only. It's sized perfectly to fit this project. Like you didn't have to cut it or anything. Or you kind of designed around it. Right, but it's designed to fit the 140 millimeter fan, which is great. With the smaller ones, we've made quite a few, few extractors now, you don't have to cut it. That's great, moving along. All right. All right, since it's a circuit python project that makes sense to have pages dedicated on documenting how to install circuit python on your board. So this is the ESP32S2. You can download the UF2 of the latest version of circuit python by heading over to circuitpython.org. All this is nicely documented. And these are kind of mirrored pages from our fun house learn guide. So yeah, it just walks you through it. It even walks you through even the thorough stuff if like you have some of the earlier boards with no bootloader. But for chances is that yours is ready to go. Cool. Now the fun house has some specific libraries for getting this to work. You're gonna wanna get this list of libraries, but because it's embedded, you can download via the project bundle and you should be able to get all of these libraries. Because there's a good amount of dependencies for the fun house. You got the portal base, you got bitmap fonts, display text, and IO. But this is nice kind of if you were manually doing this and maybe the project bundle isn't working or something, this is good kind of backup to show like this is all the libraries that you need. And of course you need a secrets folder because you're doing wifi connections. All right. All right, so with the code page you can use the project download bundle button here and this will download all of those libraries and dependencies. There's a good amount of them. So you wanna download the project bundle which will give you the code plus all of the libraries which is really cool. So this is a great job on commenting everything. You can just read through the comments if you're really new programming and circa Python. All the comments kinda give you an idea of what's going on. And you can kinda change values and things as it makes sense to your project. She also made it so that it's easy to kinda uncomment and comment out the type of values that you wanna get from your air quality sensor. In this case, you can either choose from TVOC or EC02. So that's really cool that you can kinda just uncomment. Here's the values for TVOC and here's the ones for the EEC02. Depending on your application, you're gonna wanna see which is the right one for you and you can reference the learn guide on the air quality sensor which we have linked as well. So you can get more specifics on the type of data that you're logged in. Cool. So it checks every 15, if you're connected to wifi in 16, 15 seconds pass, it'll log it, send that data to Adafruit IO. And then here you can change the names of the feed if you need, you can change it to whatever. But this walks you through setting them up. So here are all the kind of structure, folder structure that you want. This is really nicely laid out. And you have a couple of bitmaps that you'll get as part of the project download bundle. So all those are included as well because they're added to the repo and learn. So check that out. Here's what you should look like. Your circuit pie drive, look at nice and filled. Adafruit IO setup walks you through setting up your feed. So the fumes is a feed that the code is looking for and the fans feed. So you just wanna create these two and then add it to a dashboard. You can name the dashboard whatever you like. Liz's name is her solder fumes. I think I named mine like fart, not fart, not smart. Fume extractor. You all can skip this one if you don't want to. And yeah, so it walks you through just adding the feeds to your dashboard using a line chart and then just selecting the feeds that you want to display visually with the line chart. Pretty straightforward. Really good use of like if you're first time doing an IoT project with Adafruit IO, this is a really good one to try out. Whoops, I clicked on the wrong button. I clicked on this button thinking it was a button, it's actually a screenshot. Sorry. But yeah, it's there. So yeah, that's how you can get your dashboard set up with the two line charts. One for fumes and the other one for the fam RPMs. That's really cool. All right, that's the part of the code. Liz also broke it down so you got a code walkthrough here that just breaks out all the chunks of code setting up the sensors, the libraries, here's the graphics and there's even further information on the air quality sensor here. Yeah, and then even more information on the EMC 21 to one fan controller. So here's how all the graphics are set up, it's bitmaps, doing all the coordinates for positioning them on the display, on the screen. This one here shows the labels for the text, their coordinates, their colors and the type of font they are. Very cool to have all this broken out for you. Then the state machines variables walks you through all the different states because you do have some states where on boot up, well, we'll talk about here, here's the 804.io functions that are there. So here's where you would change the name of your data feed. If you wanna change that, you would change that here. The loop, so on boot up it's asking, the program asks you, do you wanna actually log your fumes to 804.io? You can choose either yes or no with one of the hardware buttons. So good use of using the hardware buttons that are built into the front house. And then so it just walks through the different states where you are connecting or not connecting. When you're connecting, it gives you a nice bitmap as well telling you that it is connecting and then when it's done, it presents you with the solder fume and the span feeds. So yeah, and it walks you through like how you would kind of remove groups from the display and how to display new ones. Yeah, and then the way the fans RPM is mapped to the SPG-30 is with a simple IO map range. So that function there, kind of walks you here and this is where the values are. So depending on your values, this is where you wanna say, like I want 10% to be mapped to, well, actually I think it's this way, yeah. I want 10% of the fan to be mapped to the lowest value here in TVOC. And then if the TOVC reading is, it goes up to 1000 units, then we want to make the fan speed be 100%. So that's where you can change those values in the range, in the map range. And cool. Sweet. Then setting data to 804.io, every 15 seconds, it's gonna post it. You can change that if you'd like. There's some limitations. So just double check those. Connecting and disconnecting from Wi-Fi is also here set up. And yeah, that's pretty much all of it. So check that out. If you want more thorough walkthrough, I just kind of skimmed it, but it's more thorough than what I skimmed. Real quickly, I got the circuit diagram. Yeah, if you are interested in making a circuit diagram, you can, sorry, I'm hearing noises. We're all good. It's fine. So fritzing is the application that you can get. It's open source. I think there's a donation that you need in order to get it, but that's what we- If you want to compile it, if you want to compile it yourself, you can get it for free. You can get it for free, yes, it says. Learn how to compile it for free. So this is the program that we're using. A lot of the Adafruit parts are fritzing objects you can use in your schematics or your circuit diagrams. This one here I pulled. I was able to download some third-party parts from the community. This is a four-wire PWM fan, and this is a five-volt fan that just has power and ground. So I'm just going to show you. It's like the same fan, but one has more connections. I was able to find this part. You can either search for it, or if you want, you can download the fritzing file, which is, I guess it's hiding in the back end here. We have, hmm, let me know if you'll want that. Oh, I can push it. I can add a link to it here. Normally we do that, but in any manner, all the wired connections are laid out for accessibility purposes, so that's nice. All the things are laid out there, so, okay. Cool. CAD files, the STLs, you can download the zip file, or you can download the CAD source, which is Fusion 360, or you can use the step file, which has all the original sketches and solid models. When it comes to slicing, you're going to want to build volume with a minimum, a 3D printer with a minimum build volume of 154 millimeters square. Don't need any supports, which is nice, and just use your kind of standard PLA settings. I didn't see any reason to use a different type of filament, like that G or something, PLA just worked fine. Last week we talked about some techniques that you can use to slice the fan grill to do different types of infill patterns. The idea is that you would turn off the top and bottom solid layers in your slicer, therefore just kind of exposing just the infill pattern, which creates an intricate pattern for this type of part here, the fan grill. It makes a lot of sense to do that, so that's what I showed last week. And then 3D models of all the parts are available on our GitHub repo, which was recently switched over to a main branch. And I encourage you to do so as well. If you have a GitHub repo, make sure you switch it, change that name to main branch or whatever else. Yeah. So this is a really pretty page. The rest of the page is just documents how I wired everything up. I like to document the length of my wires because the wire lengths go a long way when you're trying to keep your project nice and tidy and the assembly manageable. You want to consider measuring your wires. And what's the tip, always add heat shrink first and then solder later. So setting up the minifan, I'm actually using a three pin JSD cable. I'm just trimming the white data wire and just using power and ground because that's really all it needs. But because the ports on the side of the fun house are three pin JSD cables, I had to kind of use this three pin JSD cable for power and ground is all I need, but it's cool that you can power multiple peripherals through the fun house's A0, A1 and A2 ports on the side. So that's why I'm using the three pin JSD cable for the fan, the minifan. And then for the Noctua fan, the Noctua fan has four wires, power ground, and then not zero clock and serial data. That's kind of what I thought. I thought this fan was kind of powered over I squared C. It is not, it's powered through PWM and two of the connections, one wire is for TAC and the other wire is for PWM. On the back of the EMC, there is a pin labeled fan and fan pin is really the PWM pin. And I also noted, this is kind of a note, the colors of the fan, ignore them. You wanna focus on the order of the pins is what you wanna look at, not the color of the wires. I went through a bit of a saga with wiring of my fan and turns out that yeah, the colors aren't exactly one-to-one matching, especially with the circuit diagram. So just make sure that the pin order placement is what you're looking at and not the color of the wire. That's all I'm saying, right? Okay. So yeah, double check the connections are solid. Wonderful. And then the last page is the assembly of putting it all together. So list of hardware screws and standoffs that you need. And the order of it is in a way where it's like, would you say the order is chronological? The order is important. You've got to follow this order. What is the? Chronological. It's chronological. Yeah, you don't do it backwards. Yeah. It's very linear. You have to follow this way. I feel like this is the right way to kind of follow it. Yeah, so lots of screws is what I can say here. But lots of snap fits as well. The carbon filler just kind of rests in and has a retainer bit that keeps it snap fitted. I'm using hex nuts inside of the front cover are these little kind of, these little recessed spots for the hex nut to make it a little bit easier on the assembly. There's a little things that you can do to make the assembly a lot better, like easier. Lots of screws. So many screws. And then there's the final build, so. So if you want to build one, check it out. Check out the Learn Guide, check out the code, remix it, have fun with it. Make it something else. Yeah, I appreciate everybody checking it out too. That is this week's project. Shout out to Liz. She does amazing ideations and code. Super awesome to collab. Yeah, check out the video too. Whoa, what was that? Did you hear that? I did. That was like discord catching up with all the things you posted here. So Pedro posted a nice slew of links. Excellent. Yeah, we've got all of the fritzing, the CAD, and all of the, I'm sorry, reading over here, the slack. Scoot. You got added. Oh, maybe that's what it was. I got added. They had me. Yeah, all the links, all the parts and all that. Wonderful. All right. I vote for all the resources. And if you want to grab all of the fritzing parts, like you said, I always frequently go in there and grab parts that we don't have. Yes. All right, next up, we're pretty much kind of done with the project, but I do want to share one of my favorite things about it, the CAD animation. So I want to share with you this CAD animation. And one of the things I like about CAD animation is that, yeah, it shows you how the pieces fit together, but also answers to an engineering problem. Here, it shows how the SPG-30 air quality sensor is fitted behind this fan. And the bracket has a hole in the back so that the fumes can actually exit out of. It was really important that I had the fan enclosed and also have an ability to exit out. So if I didn't have a hole in the back there, your fumes would just stay stuck there. So it was a bit of a trial and error thing. The original idea was to use a funnel. And I had a funnel, but my air, like without the fan and the sensor being completely covered, all of that fumes just kind of spit out the, it didn't actually go into the sensor. So what we've done is we kind of DIYed our own PM 2.5 thing, that's what they have built-in fans so that it is directing the airflow. And that was like such a weird thing. I've never had to deal with airflow and using a CAD animation here really illustrates how the secret's just inside. There's no other way to show it. And I've been doing these CAD animations. Did they have simulations on this for like airflow? Probably not. I think they do, but I just didn't go too deep into the rabbit hole. Yeah, that's a nice little rabbit hole to get into. Well, yeah, it's like, where do I, yeah, I could, I might revisit that, but yeah, let me animate the CAD. Just kind of be happy with that. Okay, we've seen enough about it. I don't know what else we can say. The hardware- So the other thing I think you might've mentioned already was at first you thought that it wasn't working, but it needed to rest for about how long? To keep it to that air. Yeah, that's a great point. Yeah, so the sensor has its own kind of things here. Right now it needs to kind of acclimate. It needs to, it needs a couple of hours to like sense the room and, it needs to sense the air quality in the room for a little bit. So right now that's quite set to zero, but you give it like an hour or so and it'll start taking in proper readings. You can log all that and see it all in the REPL too. And there's some other things you can do to calibrate the sensor. There's some documentation to take a look at. But yeah, that's kind of the skinny. Just let it, I had to let it sit for a little bit before it was getting good readings. Yeah, Stuart had a good comment. I was like wondering more about exploding animations and using the animation workspace in Fusion 360. There is a layer-by-layer I have, so Pedro will pull it up. And it's just a good introduction to it. I guess some of the tips I have for I should really revisit that. I'm learning a lot of new things with animating. Huge amounts of hardware screws. I found that kind of grouping screws into a component helps keep your timeline from just being this massive scrolling thing. But it's pretty relatively easy to animate parts in Fusion 360. There are some little things to look out for, like rotating kind of gets a little bit weird. So I tend to do all my rotations with the space mouse. I highly recommend a space mouse. It's this little thing here. I also did a kind of a review video on when I first got my space mouse. It's just this little thing that has this little knob and you can rotate, pan, tilt, orbit, all that sort of stuff. It's not a mouse. It's only works with 3D CAD programs like Fusion. Maya, probably Rhino, other things like that. But this is how you're able to get super buttery, smooth rotations and movements with a space mouse. So that's my recommendation. Two estruses. You used to do a lot of animation with PowerPoint. Awesome. Yeah. I didn't know you could do animations with PowerPoint. Maybe like kind of key frame things. I took forever to find that. Cool. Excellent. Here's a video on how to make those exploding animations. Yeah. How to turn them into GIF animations. Right, cool. That's a good one, yeah. Yeah, that was a little bit of a workflow, too. Making the movie file into a GIF has its own challenges, optimizing frames and what else, the pattern. What's it called? When you lossly turn that up? Any hoodle. That's a little bit of insight into animation stuff. I'll probably revisit it as a little bit of an error. Yeah, that one was a little bit of a scroll down the list. So I'm sure there's been lots of UI improvements and a bunch of updates since that's happened. So yeah, definitely getting some ups on redoing that one. Cool. Excellent. And of course, search other folks have done some tutorials. Wonderful. All right, that is this week's project. Thank you, everybody. Next up, we're going to do, what are you prototyping? That's a little bit beyond prototyping. And as I said earlier, this is probably going to be released later in about an hour. Looks like Dylan is working on this one. Yeah, cool. So by asking an engineer tonight, I think we'll have another guy. Yeah, probably before noon it should come out. This is the Jeopardy game show. Oh, I think this battery is dead. Let me get that other battery. Here you are. So we've got any juice in this one left? Juice? About two bars. I need juice. Give me juice. All right, so insane with all the pop culture stuff. Of course, Lamar and Phil wanted to make a Jeopardy game controller with the Circuit Playground Blue Fruit. So what's going on here is you can use the standalone or you can have it be button presses for either a computer or a mobile device. And what it is is just a game show button. So whoever presses it first, it'll illuminate that color of the contestant or the handle that you're holding. Dylan made this all in Circuit Python. So of course, you can edit the code to change the colors or change the sound effects and change the HDMI keys that is being sent over to whatever specific game that you guys are playing. It doesn't have to be Jeopardy. So any type of game where you want to, let's say, get a drawing game or something, like charades or something. And instead of shouting out what you think the answer would be, you can be a little bit more civil with it. And I have these guys dictate which whoever, whatever player, push the button first because it'll illuminate. So let me go through the function of it here. So when you first start off, you push the button to clear. And then once more to enable the players to be able to push the button. And then they just go ahead and push whichever one goes in first. And then you can clear it again and start over. So a nice little functionality there. What I really like about this project is the modularity of it. So everything is screw or snap fit. So this entire trigger buzzer, I think, is what they're called in Jeopardy. It's all screwed in. And we're using these quick connects. Yeah, these are great. The quick connects allow you to easily change out your buttons. So if you want a different style, if you wanted to add LEDs on there as well, you can get all fancy with that. So these just screw on like that. And then we're using the jumper cables on this so you can easily disconnect or extend this if you have a bigger, like, plane area, like on the table or something. And then for the controller box, it's all snap fit together as well. Quick connects on the arcade button as well. And if you look inside here, the circuit playground blue fruit, we started on some headers on there as well. So all of these can be easily disconnected. If you, like, plugged the wire into the wrong color or the pad that detects what controller is being used, you can swap that around. That also makes it easy to assemble this. So when you mount your circuit playground blue fruit, you don't have to have these wires stringing. You don't have to do this order of operation dance easily. Just plug those in as soon as the board is mounted. On the bottom of the case here, you have the snap fit little grill for the speaker using the stem of speaker to do the audio. And we also have the, well, I think the battery, when the battery dies, you have like that crazy audio going on. Let me just disconnect it. It's the battery. If you want to grab another one, great. So we're doing Phil B's a little trick of flipping the speaker. So the acoustics of it's a little bit more louder when it's facing up against the board. So we're having the audio raised that way as well. And there is, we've got a little pot here that allows you to lower or raise the volume as well. We have that going on. And then everything just connects to the stem of cable. So that just easily plugs into the board here. And you can have that be nice and modular as well. Because we have to make sure that the parts don't, you know, sort of fly around inside of the case. They are mounted down with some hardware screws. So that's the only thing that is not snap fit. Go ahead and hit the button so we can hear that lovely. Oh yeah, how loud it is. So here we're going, I was saying that we're using Phil B's trick of flipping the stem of speaker over so that the other side is hitting the PCB board and amplifying the acoustics of it. So it comes out louder. The PCB surface becomes the speaker. And if you haven't checked out Phil B's one minute videos, I think he releases them every week. Chalk full of great little nuggets of, whether it be like programming or history or just some retro tech that interests Phil B. So definitely check those out on YouTube. So that's pretty much it for this case. Of course, it's printed in a natural PLA white filament. So it's giving us that nice diffusion on there. Line these little tabs. Oh, you can't see that. Light a little tabs that snap fit together in here. Snap that in. And then USB powered. So it plugs into any battery or wall outlet. I still can't believe the circuit playground is fitted in there. Once it's gone, the scale or something about proportions just throws me off. Like there's no way the circuit playground could fit in there. And yet there it is, defying physics. Yeah, so very nice. Can't wait till we have our favorite host that will be going on. I think it's like July, something like in the middle of the month somewhere. We'll have a LaVar who, well known for playing. I see it, I just don't believe it, y'all. On Star Trek and Rating Rainbow. Kind of weird universe this is. Who is Lars? What's going on here? Let me help. So funny we had Lars in the background here. Hitting the button now. So I don't want to lock out on the learn guide. I wanted to go through it, but it just hit me. It's like, oh, Dylan's working on the page. So I don't want to lock her out of the guide. So we'll review that next week. But it's nice little build on the printing and all that. The tips for using supports. I do have to use supports on this just because of the way that this bottom. Yeah, it's got some interesting geometry that makes it so that it's just more of a single part as opposed to like five parts. And just got one. And then we covered the Fusion 360 plug-in. That's right. Vernoy plug-in that was updated a couple of months ago. We're very happy to see the update for that. That allows you to generate these very nice Vernoy shapes and it doesn't have to be stars. You have like all these different cells and like the spacing angle and all that to generate a custom speaker grill. It's a really fun one with the kids. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Her family, her friends. Oh, and one cool thing too that Dylan added on this. I haven't seen this in any of her projects or boards or just projects in general. The ability to turn the Bluetooth on and off. So the little slide switch that's embedded, that's part of the circuit playground, blue fruit allows you to turn that on and off. So if you don't want to use this as an HID, human interface device with your computer or your mobile device, you can turn that off. One of the reasons why was because as I was testing this, sending all the buttons, I was sending it to the phone that was connected that it was connected to and on the lock screen, you can only attempt so many times of trying to guess your password. So I locked out my phone. That's right. So that's why I requested that and that's a very handy feature. For sure. Mode select, that's what that switch is for. You can have full access to it in Circuit Python. You can do all sorts of mode selection for your programs. And of course, a bunch of this is being added by not only Dylan, but Dan, Halbert as well doing a lot of Bluetooth workflow stuff in there. And it was along with Scott. That's right. I have a lot of very handy Bluetooth file sending stuff coming up very soon in Circuit Python seven. Soon you'll be able to edit the code on your phone without having to use a wire to do the over there code. And it's going to be pretty wild. Yeah. And Stuart Riggs is asking, yeah, the blue fruit on and off switch. I think by default, I don't think it actually does anything. No, you have to program it. It's just a input, data input. Yeah, so you can program to do whatever. Super handy. And of course, all the wires. We're using these silicone coded jumper cables for this and I'll go more in detail. I did have to make some custom quick connects. Took the little connector part in the way it comes and then soldered it onto these jumper cables just to make it a lot more easier. Yeah. Sizing so it could actually fit in there so you can screw it in there like that. And I'll have room without having too much wires all over the place. Oh, I have to align all of these tabs. Yeah. One of the reasons why you want to do tabs as opposed to a screw is because you'll have your cables. Well, your wires, cable will twist. So having a snap is a little bit better. All right. Oh, so Riggs said it was a jeopardy pun. Yeah. Oh yeah. Great. All right. So look out for the guy. He should be out, I think Dylan said. Later tonight. I think in about an hour. So before ask an engineer. And the video will come out next week. Yes. We're gonna have fun this weekend. Yeah. I was like playing actually using it. I think we already shot all the footage. We're working and playing jeopardy with the seven-year-old. All right. Well, on to shop talk. I got a little bit of a CNC bench here. I'm still CNC milling some stuff. Last week, we took a look at, I think we took a look at milling some key caps out of wood. This week, I am revisiting the Qtipi PCB adapter. Qtipi is a great little board. And now comes with the RP2040 chip. And I really want a way to secure the Qtipi with mounting screws. There's no mounting tabs on the Qtipi board. So what I did was like designed a little PCB adapter that has two mounting holes. And it has those surface-mountable pads so that you can solder the Qtipi board directly to this single-layered copper FR1 board. So I'm using the desktop PCB milling machine from Bantam Tools, formerly known as OtherMill. And I just really love the fact that I can use this machine. And then literally like one minute, I have a PCB that I designed. Like that's just mind-blowing. It's still, wow, what an awesome tool. What's making you, you know, so ah, over it is having a PCB that you ordered at Oshpark. By the time it got here, you're already like on Revision 5. That's right, yeah. So with that, I understand that not everybody's gonna have access to a mill. So I have the file uploaded and shareable now. So it's a bit of a niche thing. I don't know if folks really need this. I just really want this. So I went out of my way to make this. So I'm sharing it on the Oshpark website, oshpark.com. Let me get a link to it. I don't know how to do that. Embed link, I guess. No, that's not it. Permalink, that's the one I want. So I'll drop this here and y'all can take a look at it. It was designed with Eagle CAD from Autodesk. It's a board file. And all of Lamar's work is as a board file. I think there's some tools if you're using a different CAD package, I think you can convert it to something else, but it's there if folks want to use the library object to make their own Qtpy adapter boards. Maybe you can use that as a reference. Yeah, so I didn't finish this video, sorry. But this is just an insight of milling the PCB. Here I'm using a 1.32 inch flattened mill, my go-to tool for doing PCB milling. And the FR1 boards are pre-cut, pre-size. You can pick these up from Amazon or Band-Aim tool sells a nice pack of them. But yeah, it's a single-sided FR1 board and I'm using double-sided scotch tape to secure it to my spoil board. That's how I do it. The way you line it up is you just do it with your hands. Just line it up in the corner and there you go. Sorry, I don't have any fancy probing tools yet, but yeah, like I said, five minutes. I made like three of them, or four of them rather. That's a really good tip. Like I always think I'll just make one of something, but that's never the case. You always need to make more than two because if you fail one, then you have one. And when you have one, you have none. So, who said that? You ever heard that before? If you have one, you have none. Yeah, it happens all the time. Cause like I don't have an extra printer and, right. I only have one PCB meltdown. But anyway, I messed one up because I was kinda, you can't really see it here, but when you're doing multiple PCBs in the Band-Aim tool software, you can manually duplicate a G-code file. And there it is. And when I did it, I actually ate the other one. So I kinda milled on the first one. So I had to shift it over some more. But yeah, it's fine. I use alcohol to soften up the adhesive from the glue and that really helps out a lot. It gets a little messy, but that's just the name of the game when you're a CNC milling. And here I am using the solder fume extractor. You'll be seeing this quite a bit in the upcoming projects. Yeah, so that was cool. And a very, very small, you know, but you could definitely solder it up. You know, they're 0.01 spacing. So pretty standard header sizes, right? And I'm left-handed, sorry. So that's why it looks weird. But I got my stick vise. That's all working good. And I just put an order into Oshpark. It's because I want nice purple PCBs, right? You just got a purple piece of bridge. And yeah, that's what I got. I wanted to show it off, but I think it's already embedded in the project you're using this on. Yeah, sure. I don't think you want to release it. Yeah, we're going to look at that next week. OK. But that was fun. I really like the Band-Aum tools. Looking at it over here. That's so fun. It's fun. We do fun stuff. So that is this week's Shop Talk. We got a little PCB for the cutie pie. And I hope folks make more things with the cutie pie. It's a great board. USB-C, small. It's cheap. It's got a lot of IO built-in stemming. QT connector is huge. You'll see that in the next week's project. Can't really see it in there, but there it is. You can barely see it. What is that? It might have to do with one of the themed key caps. Yeah. Don't worry. You'll see. And then for Shop Talk, take a look here. Cutie pie. ARP 2040. Oh, I didn't drink it. Tranky. Dang it. I wanted to show that the. It's got a bit of a gator friend. What is his name? Al? First name Al. Last name Gator? We don't know. Oh, Aburo is suggesting, or asking if you did the dark mode for the PCB. You know where it has the orange or is it inverted right for the PCB for the Oshpok word? I'm such a fan of purple. Sorry. I love black, too. I'm wearing a black shirt. Some about purple. Hits me in the heart. I'm just like, oh, purple. But yeah, this is a shout out to Bruce Yan, the creative director here at Adafruit. He does all of the artwork and characters. And this is a new one that Pete T and Bruce collaborated on. Very, very cool artwork. But yeah, this is the character for the ARP 2040 Tranky. So cool. His tail is a Stemma QT connector in his buck teeth. Well, he's a USB connector. So that's really cool. Very relevant here in Florida. Home of the Gators. I'd like to hear more background story of the Gator, how it came to be, and all that. So I'm going to lean on Phil tonight to talk about it. But I'm just showing you here as a sneak peek. I think he already posted it on the old socials. He did, but I want the background story. Why? Why a Gator? Why a Panda, you know, that sort of thing. So that's shop talk. We're going to do community makes now. Are you guys ready? We have two this week. Let's see. Two. He's a next. Oh no, I didn't put the video here. Which one? Oh no, I see it. It's there. All right, community makes this week. So first one is from our very own John Park. He made this awesome Deco 2 key. Pad. Macro pad. Macro pad. Four plain and Usnu. Soku. Usnu. So this is using the tree key to key. No, yeah, it's a Neo key for the wing. So it's a modular design. It press fits in there. The wing goes on top. And then the keys can press fit or slot into. Oh, this is so cute. And they are illuminated. The keys that we're using are the, what are these? I don't know, but you can plug it in here. And it should start messing up my wire casts. So be careful. I'm sure it'll mess something up. So JP showed this off on his show, I think, like a week or two ago. So I'm going to show it out. Cool, this is DA, DA, DA. Just type in DA. And I really love the way that these eliminate. It has this nice edge look. So these are the key caps. And using a little whisk tool here, so you can see. Yeah, we started stalking these tools. Actually, this is a different one. Oh, right. Well, a type of tool. We're out there. Oh my gosh, what are you doing? Remove this guy and show. You can switch out your keys. I'm just using the brown key on this one. And I wonder what the lake is about. You can easily swap these out. You can see where the Neo pixel is on there. You can just line this up with the key slots. Oh, I'm being blinded. You're so aggressive. Pop that in there like that. And then like we showed in the video, the bottom here pops off. Just disconnect this guy. You have access to your reset button here on the wing. And then I think I have to take both of these out. A little whisker here. So let me say some words. All right, JP designed this in Rhino, which is really cool to see. It's kind of like this node-based sort of modeling approach. I thought it was really, really cool. And you made it so that the key plate is built into the enclosure, so it's really cool. It does have a little bit of supports, but with that, you get a nicer, more assembled part when you use supports. So hey, shout out for using supports. Not a bad thing. Suki telling myself that. So super modular here. You can see the two key, Neo key. Oh my God, I keep calling it the wrong thing. Neo key to feather wing. Take two. Just plug them. We're using a feather M4 here. Run the circuit pipe on it, of course. Let's just connect together like that. And then the jargon aid supports on the bottom here for the overhangs. Not too bad though. Using the exact same modified support settings that we always talk about with the Z offset being like at 0.21. And then the density of the supports being like 6%, 4%. And then the width of the supports being like 0.2. So they're super easy to remove. I got a bit of an access to USB there. Yeah, a bit of a mean thing, I want to say. Let's see, let me try this out. For the folks that are saying this is a waste of the M4. Okay, what are you doing? Somebody said it was a waste of the M4 and I just took it off and I was like, oh, you can reuse it, yeah, yeah. Like, I don't even need the visual, I don't need words. What a waste of the M4. I pop it off and I'm like, okay, let me use it somewhere else. So this is actually, that's a good point, actually why we like doing modularity for our projects. We pre-plan it that way so we can reuse these again because then, you know, as you can see in the background, you can't see behind us, but projects stack up if we don't do that. I do, I tend to rip off the M4 and just reuse them all over the places. Yeah, so it's really awesome. It really is the thing that makes an ecosystem. Put it in the bottom lid, snap fits. And then, of course, you can choose whatever keys that you want. Yeah, that's great. The other one, I thought we were out of these, but obviously more clicky, yeah, I did see. Switch these out for the clickies and have one brown clicky and just slots right in like that, like that, and like that. Hopefully I didn't bend the keys on that. Oh no. Yeah, I did do that once I was able to bend it back out. Also, I wanna pull up. Yeah, like that. I wanna pull up the learn guide because this is a learn guide. Yeah, yeah, yeah. What are you trying to do now? Unbend this, it's fine though. Okay. I got a stunt double right here. Yeah, so if we pull up the guide, you can see all of the code that is helping that run this in Circuit Byte. Yeah, I think it's using the debounce library as well from the data styles. But yeah, it's using the Feather RP, I mean NRF 52-840, but that's just the one that was in stock. It'll work with any Feather that's kind of capable of it. So yeah, nice short guide from JP. Sweet code here, so check it out. So it's a project to hold you over while he's on vacation. Yeah, for sure. And here's some more stuff on custom key mapping. Got a great code breakdown as well so you can get a good look at all the stuff we renew it. Very cool. Oops, I hope I didn't do anything. What'd you do? Just pressed AB. Yeah, nothing, yeah. All right, so shout out to JP. Great design, great guides, great code. Circuit Byte on. Yay. The O-Key. All right, very handy. Yeah, so it is CommunityMates makes. So this week, the toaster, this is an SD card toaster holder. This is from DeFapro, DeHapro. And it's a nice small printed place design here. I'm gonna pull up the page. This is another one of those tolerance testing prints. It prints a place so you can see if your calibration is all set up nice on your printer. There's a little mechanism there that pops the SD cards out. Like a real toaster. And then of course, testing the tolerances on your SD cards. I don't know, but yo, but I use SD cards still a lot because like our camera. Yeah, this is an regular SD card. This is those super fat SD cards, 32 gigs. That's one of our smaller ones. Here's the bigger one. Well, what I'm more interested in, the extra pad that you have on the back there. Oh, I never noticed that. Yeah, that's not. These are for our Blackmagic Pocket 4K Cinema Camera that we really like. And we use them all every day. I know there's micro SDs sort of taken over, but I'm sure you probably have some use of an SD card holder. But any manner, shout out to the person on Colt3D for sharing the design. Should have called this. It's a free design. You can check it out. Really nice gift as well. Yeah, you should have called this an SD card launcher because, oh, hold on, let me get that on the camera. Do it again. I've got my goalie here. Do it over there. And then we'll make it. Oh, you got one. The 64 is the winner. So yeah, nice little way to test out tolerances or stow your SD cards away. What was that animated movie where there was a toaster and he's talking? Remember that movie? I do not. It was an animated movie with a talking toaster. Discord, if you folks remember, let me know what that movie is. Toaster. He's a happy toaster. I think aliens. The brave little toaster. The brave little toaster. I know what we're watching with Gavin tonight. Don't we remember this one? Yeah, it's a great. It's a Disney, American-British animated musical film that from the 1980s it novel the brave little toaster by Thomas M. Dish. What a nice little way to call back to adding some little eyes on me. Thank you, Bruce. I knew you, I knew you would. Albrose saying that the SD card keeps, he needs one because of Roomba keeps eating his cards. Good way to clean them. All right, well, let's keep this continue then with the community to make. So shout out if you wanna print your toaster. We have a link in the, where did it go? Yeah, it's great. It prints in under, it's like an hour, I think. Probably just because of the time-lapse setting, but it's a nice one there. A little bit under an hour. And standard settings, you know, sports. It's super satisfying when you pop this off the bed and the little hinge works. It's pretty cool. Definitely wanna. Oh, and I have not been posting links. Let me see. This is the toaster link. All right, did you fidget? So huge shout out to the person for posting this up. That's the one thing of ours. The hop pro designs. Very cool. And then the link to JP's guide for the two key deco on MicroPad. All right, cool. Now we're gonna go into the community side of the makes. Folks that are posting up their makes on socials and thing of verses and beyond. First up, take it out. Somebody already made JP's deco keypad. Oh snap. Make lively, shout out to this person. Make lively, posted this up. And it even has a little kitty paw. It looks great in pink. No way. Yeah, it looks great. Easy print, I printed the top side down to use less support material. I didn't even do that. Yeah, printed on the Krill T Ender 3 Pro. No rafts, a little bit of supports. Susan's saying that that's her. Make lively is Susan. Hi Susan. Thank you for posting this up. It's a super great color choice as well. Yeah, I love the pink. Great name. I like your handle. Make lively. So shout out to you for posting that as excellent. All right, we got another one here. You remember this one, Pedro? I love showing you this because you have no idea what this is going to be, right? Yeah, I don't get the notification. This is something you designed. Do you remember this? What is this? Oh, it looks like a remix of it though. It is. I said it was a random sign. Yeah, so this is a charge cable holder. Yeah, for a Tesla car. So I forget the name of what specific plug that they use. So you modeled it with a free form sculpting tools in Fusion 360 to get to this organic, it's really curvy, organic shape and there's some extra rails and stuff for the screws so it can actually come off of the rail. Really, really cool technique there using kind of a 3D printed rail so that you can mount it and dismount it. And yeah, it looks great. It's just a little cable holder because they don't really come with one, right? And it's a very cool remix and let's read a little bit about it. It fits the North American Tesla charger connectors designed to be printable without supports. Both pieces should be printed in their backs flat against the built plate. Printed the mounting rail with 100% infill to prevent cracking from overtightening the screws. It's a good technique. Mounting rail is designed with number six screws. Those are US screws. Panhead style, not a countershunk. Yeah, good, good, good. Thanks, Aaron. It was printed on a Monopry sprinter. It's very, very cool. Yeah, I like the design because I do remember I did have to use supports in my design, so very handy to have it not need supports there. Yeah, that's great. So check that out and thank you. Think of her, she's your A Parker 127 for posting up your remix. All right, next up we got another. Is that a remix? It might be. A lot of remixes this week. Let's take a look. This is a make from Jane Isch. Jane Isch, iron. Posted up the Keyblade from Kingdom Hearts. This is one of my favorite props that we've designed. It all screws together with custom coils and it's been, I think, painted here. Like, yeah, so originally in red and pink colors and then I think sanded down and post-processed. I'll read the description in a minute here, but here are the photos and there it is mounted on the wall, looking really nice and shiny. Nope, no comments, so that's good. But shout out to I-A-N-E-S-C-H. Think of her, she's her. If you're a fan of Kingdom Hearts, check it out. And now on to the last one. This is a really cool remix. Theme of the show, remixing. This is the Dark Saber build and think of her, she's her technically busted. Remix the pommel to work with their badder 12 volts like power drill battery. So you use what you got laying around, they did it. Yeah, this is excellent. So we've got some nice LEDs going on there. It's a high density LED strip. I think so, yeah. So they used like more LEDs, it's 12 volt powered and it's got a beefy, heavy battery right there. So that's great. And the pommel's been redesigned to fit that. Hey, it looks great. Oh, it looks really good. Yeah, because once your hands are there, it's gonna look good. So that was really cool and there's a nice description here. I challenged myself to see if I could get my 12 volt Bosch drill battery to fit into the pommel of the Dark Saber. I had a lot of fun redesigning the pommel. I wanted a cheap route. So I just put in some basic white LEDs. I found the ultra skinny LED lights on Amazon link. Eventually I plan to getting the multi-colored new pixel lights in sound war. Sweet. Sweet, yeah. This is great. I like it when folks just kind of do it with parts that they already have or parts that they get somewhere else. It's always fun too. But yeah, the Dark Saber, very, very, very cool. You can't wait for season two or three. Again, I got a poke fun at the one that is available at Galaxy's Edge. It does not look as cool as this. Yeah, that's fine. You can build your own. It's okay. And that's this week's community makes. Shout out to everybody for posting up their makes. Special shout out to Make Lively for actually being in the show there. First, very, very cool season. All right, so that's gonna be it for the show, but stay tuned later tonight. It's gonna be. What's happening later tonight? Show and tell, Lamar and Phil. This is full half hour of showing off all your cool projects, retro tech, or just a little tour of your workspace. Lamar and Phil will be there to hang out and check out all the things that guys are working on. Then immediately after that, we'll be a full hour of Ask an Engineer. Lamar and Phil will cover all of the news going on in the make world, as well as all the cool new projects and products that are coming out. And discount code, let's forget, 10% discount code back. That's right. Philip E. Cart, there are constantly, especially like on Wednesday, as it gets near the afternoon, check out Adafruit.com slash new. You can check out all the new products that are coming out. We, looks like we got the Adafruit etched key caps coming in very soon. Oh, you're just teasing us. You're just teasing us. We're a little bit over, so I'm gonna stop. Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. All right, cool. Check that out. Everybody's on vacation. Yeah, let's say shout out to JP. He'll be back next week. No, I think two weeks. Two weeks. Two years at Scott as well. John and Scott, go through the graphics. Yeah, Scott, he's off again this week. So, well, we'll see you when you come back. Yeah. Take it all the time you need. And just a quick kind of note, FOMI Guy is doing live streams on Fridays. So check him out. During Scott's usual time. During Scott's usual time, just check that out. Check it out. You can check out the links in Discord. That's where FOMI Guy will post it. And shout out to FOMI Guy for doing the live streams. And then Lady Data on Sunday, she's still doing Sundays. So check out her out on Sundays. Check out the adventures of switching over a lot of the tricky boards over to another Sandy Arduino core compatible chips. Right, for the seasong. Check it out. You've been watching 3D Hangouts Happens Every Wednesday since, what, 2013? Don't date us. We just started doing the show. Early episode 332. Oh. Can't wait to get to 1,000. Shuffling our feet around old. Anyway, that's it for this week. Don't forget to make a great day, folks. We'll see you tonight. Bye.